the part above. do you mean to say your D3 will lock up if you fire with flash or without flash.
and the part about taking the batt out to reset. which batt? flash, body or both?
Thinking of SB 900? or Just got SB900? - SB 900 Discussion
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the part above. do you mean to say your D3 will lock up if you fire with flash or without flash.
and the part about taking the batt out to reset. which batt? flash, body or both?
shoot without the flash attached to your D3 and see if the AF lock still persist. if it does, try reseting to factory default and see if the problem is rectified.
if the AF doesn't lock up without your flash attached, the fault could be in the flash. i don't own the SB900 but i think there's a way to reset the flash to factory settings.
at worst, send to nikon for a checkup.
gooseberry
Senior Member
The flash was still on - but shutdown due to overheating prevention ?
Did you try taking the flash off ?
Cougar159
Member
Since the event is random, I am unable to answer all the questions. I do notice that the AF will still be locked even upon removal of the flash. But the clarify further, upon full depression of the shutter release button, the shutter release is possible.
So far, the above only took place 3 times, after the flash shutdown. They are random and not demonstrable.
It is unlikely that my AF-ON setting is altered. I have not tempered with the setting since I determined the settings the day I first own the D3. I did run through the setting menu. All seems ok.
The flash shutting down is a protective mechanism new to SB900. There is the icon flashing to indicate the filament is too hot and will not fire until adequate cool off. Thats the reason I bought this flash.
So far, the above only took place 3 times, after the flash shutdown. They are random and not demonstrable.
It is unlikely that my AF-ON setting is altered. I have not tempered with the setting since I determined the settings the day I first own the D3. I did run through the setting menu. All seems ok.
The flash shutting down is a protective mechanism new to SB900. There is the icon flashing to indicate the filament is too hot and will not fire until adequate cool off. Thats the reason I bought this flash.
fabianaino
Deregistered
wow ...taking out the battery seems a hassle.
Did you try to reset the camera and the flash manually before taking out the battery to see if if resolve the SF issue?
do share more?
a stupid question from me, but did you insert the flash all the way onto the hot shoe?
there was once i didnt insert fully, and my flash refuse to fire at all.tried everything, until i wanted to remove the flash and then realised it was inserted fully.:embrass:
not sure if this will cause the d3 to stop autofocusing...
i fired the sb900 over the entire weekend, with quantum turbo.
not a hiccup at all.not even overheating.
there was once i didnt insert fully, and my flash refuse to fire at all.tried everything, until i wanted to remove the flash and then realised it was inserted fully.:embrass:
not sure if this will cause the d3 to stop autofocusing...
i fired the sb900 over the entire weekend, with quantum turbo.
not a hiccup at all.not even overheating.
Cougar159
Member
Nope. I inserted the flash fully. Was still able to lock it in place.
Thats the funny thing. I would not expect the flash to over heat and shut down at all since I was having a 10s interval. Did many bounce flash. Wonder if it could be the flash tried to increase output to compensate for underexposure...
Thats the funny thing. I would not expect the flash to over heat and shut down at all since I was having a 10s interval. Did many bounce flash. Wonder if it could be the flash tried to increase output to compensate for underexposure...
what ISO were you shooting at?
It does matter alot
Assuming you are shooting in an indoor environment.
scenerio 1. Your setting is at f4 and 1/60secs and iso 200, you look into the viewfinder and find the exposure meter showing that you 3 stop underexposed (assuming centre weighted). With your flash at iTTL you released the shutter and flash fired. What do you think is the power of the flash output?
scenerio 2. All the same setting and location and subject, but now at iso 1600, you look into the veiwfinder - what would be the exposure meter showing you? and when you release the shutter and flash fired, would the power of the flash output be more? or last than the first scenerio?
If you can answer it than you will now know whether it matters.
Anyway why at iso 200 in indoor ? The D3 is one camera where at ISO 3200 is still very good to print up to S8R or more. That's one of the strongest point of D3.
Assuming you are shooting in an indoor environment.
scenerio 1. Your setting is at f4 and 1/60secs and iso 200, you look into the viewfinder and find the exposure meter showing that you 3 stop underexposed (assuming centre weighted). With your flash at iTTL you released the shutter and flash fired. What do you think is the power of the flash output?
scenerio 2. All the same setting and location and subject, but now at iso 1600, you look into the veiwfinder - what would be the exposure meter showing you? and when you release the shutter and flash fired, would the power of the flash output be more? or last than the first scenerio?
If you can answer it than you will now know whether it matters.
Anyway why at iso 200 in indoor ? The D3 is one camera where at ISO 3200 is still very good to print up to S8R or more. That's one of the strongest point of D3.
yup. at ISO 200 if indoors and bouncing, your flash will be working doubly hard instead of half the power required from ISO 400.
chanjyj
New Member
It does matter alot
Assuming you are shooting in an indoor environment.
scenerio 1. Your setting is at f4 and 1/60secs and iso 200, you look into the viewfinder and find the exposure meter showing that you 3 stop underexposed (assuming centre weighted). With your flash at iTTL you released the shutter and flash fired. What do you think is the power of the flash output?
scenerio 2. All the same setting and location and subject, but now at iso 1600, you look into the veiwfinder - what would be the exposure meter showing you? and when you release the shutter and flash fired, would the power of the flash output be more? or last than the first scenerio?
If you can answer it than you will now know whether it matters.
Anyway why at iso 200 in indoor ? The D3 is one camera where at ISO 3200 is still very good to print up to S8R or more. That's one of the strongest point of D3.
There is a possibility he may want to cut out ambient light and have the scene lit primarily by bounced flash? :dunno:
chanjyj
New Member
Children party? cut ambient light. Sound wierd.
Well to each his own
Yah. I know my statement sounds abit off the hook. Usually I only do that when shooting outdoors studio and I want to get "fight the sun/cut ambient light" and hence shoot at high flash sync speeds. But anyway what I meant was this:
jnet6
Senior Member
For events, light dinner & dance, we want ambient light, why cut it???Children party? cut ambient light. Sound wierd.
Well to each his own
only PnS with flash on then will cut it, unless high ISO is use..
chanjyj
New Member
I sometimes like to use light to focus attention on a group or a person in a big mass dinner and dance. Hence, cut the ambient light (but not completely like PnS).
However, direct flash is too.. direct? Harsh might be a better word, so the flash is bounced. For the picture above I didn't bounce properly (I should have bounced backwards rather than 90 degrees) but I think you get a rough idea of what I mean.
Anyway to each his own, as chngpe01 said. I have my own style one lah. Whether that is the general norm is another thing. Let's not OT from the original thread about SB 900 to general flash photography.
last wkend was out shooting with the SB900 at enchanting indonesia
the flash is so smart...i just fire direct...
no diffuser or bounce...just direct...the exposure is really good
The iTTL is really accurate too...and at wide angle...the flash expose the subjects evenly
at 200mm the flash gently filled in on the subjects and stage. a slight shadow can be seen
simply power down the -1.3 to -2.0ev...the shadows are eliminated.
With this new flash...i dun really think need to many pattern or bouncing la...diffuser la...or whale or plastic bowl.
Just choose wide, normal or center weighted on ur flash...the rest is up to you.
the flash is so smart...i just fire direct...
no diffuser or bounce...just direct...the exposure is really good
The iTTL is really accurate too...and at wide angle...the flash expose the subjects evenly
at 200mm the flash gently filled in on the subjects and stage. a slight shadow can be seen
simply power down the -1.3 to -2.0ev...the shadows are eliminated.
With this new flash...i dun really think need to many pattern or bouncing la...diffuser la...or whale or plastic bowl.
Just choose wide, normal or center weighted on ur flash...the rest is up to you.
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