Thinking of SB 900? or Just got SB900? - SB 900 Discussion
- Thread starter LePhotographe
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jnet6
Senior Member
I do remember i saw Nikon Demo video on using modeling light via remote(meaning as SU800/SB800/900 as master)
Last time i tried, need to highlight the perticular group/channel that you want to see the light then press the modeling light on the master, it will trigger the slave.
Hope i'm correct.
i'll try it one day.
chanjyj
New Member
Actually, if you don't want to trigger individual flashes modelling light, and don't mind triggering all of the flashes in the set up, just press the DOF preview button on the camera and that will do the trick (assuming you did not reassign the button to bracketing or something else).
a small query on the color gel used for SB-900 with D300...the manual says that the green gels for flouresent lights is not competible with the D300...but it is possible to set the white balance of the d300 to the flouresent WB right? if that's the case why say not compatible?
Cougar159
Member
I notice something wierd. And I need some assistance. I set my D3 to ISO-AUTO. Usually the ISO displayed on the back panel will change depending on lighting condition. But when I attached my SB900, I keep noticing that the D3 Back panel keep displaying ISO-AUTO 200. While the SB900 LCD panel display ISO-AUTO
Does it mean that the ISO is fixed at 200? Or is it on Auto mode?
I am confused...
:dunno:
Does it mean that the ISO is fixed at 200? Or is it on Auto mode?
I am confused...
:dunno:
hi guys, recently i used the sb900 on an outdoor event. as u know, sometimes shooting events need to fire off quite some shoots within a minute so that we won't miss any important moment. when i fire about 6 shots within a minute, the flash got overheated and shut down to cool down. i have to continue shooting without flash, which result in blur images due to fast movement. the flash wont work until 5 minutes later.
is there any way that i can shoot without worrying that the flash will become too hot and stop working for cooling down?
is there any way that i can shoot without worrying that the flash will become too hot and stop working for cooling down?
i am not using the SB900 but looking at the manual C-24, you can set the thermal control cut-out function to off. but then shoot with caution checking the flash head with your hand to make sure you don't push the SB900 too far.
blackdrakes
New Member
You can..
Turn on CLS and turn model light on in the body.
Then press the DOF preview button.
it should work..
Cougar159
Member
Referring to Feetless post... I am wondering why is the SB900 so sensitive to shutting down? I remember using my SB800 for similar events like children's part games shoot. Was taking several shots together at close succession and the flash did not shut down.
Now I use the SB900 for a similar event and it shut down... is there anything wrong with our SB900?
Now I use the SB900 for a similar event and it shut down... is there anything wrong with our SB900?
You can also shut off the shut down features and there will be no more "problem"
IMO most of the time in any piece of equipment 90% of the "problem" lies with the users
As stated in the earlier post, one have to understand the fundamental of flash photography.
Many a time I see ppl using ISO 100-200, shoot a f8 (cos I want a deep depth of field mah) and speed of 1/125s(cos I want to capture the moment mah) in an indoor environment. Yes it can be done but at what expense, the flash of cos has to work doubly hard to fire at full power. Any light source will generate heat, the brighter it is the more heat, furthermore fire at quick succession will make it worse
Well in this secenrio there will be a melt down damaging the flash tube or the plastic fresnal in the front of the flash tube. It may not causes the flash to spoil immediately but shorten the life time.
The SB 800 did not have a over heating protection cut off and many think it is tough and can shoot like what I describe. Hence the misconception. But if you look at the clear plastic fresnel on the front of the flash(of any abused SB 800 or earlier model of flash) carefully, if there are "bubbles" on it or if there is yellowish tint (actually burnt type of tint compare to a new one) or see or feel the warp on the fresnel (can be slight to severe) these are the sign of a faulty but still working flash with a probably shorten life span (those who buy second hand flash in the B&S look out for this and beware)
Anyway as stated there is a "limit disable switch" evoke it and the "problem will disappear"
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shakyhand76
New Member
You can also shut off the shut down features and there will be no more "problem"
IMO most of the time in any piece of equipment 90% of the "problem" lies with the users
As stated in the earlier post, one have to understand the fundamental of flash photography.
Many a time I see ppl using ISO 100-200, shoot a f8 (cos I want a deep depth of field mah) and speed of 1/125s(cos I want to capture the moment mah) in an indoor environment. Yes it can be done but at what expense, the flash of cos has to work doubly hard to fire at full power. Any light source will generate heat, the brighter it is the more heat, furthermore fire at quick succession will make it worse
Well in this secenrio there will be a melt down damaging the flash tube or the plastic fresnal in the front of the flash tube. It may not causes the flash to spoil immediately but shorten the life time.
The SB 800 did not have a over heating protection cut off and many think it is tough and can shoot like what I describe. Hence the misconception. But if you look at the clear plastic fresnel on the front of the flash(of any abused SB 800 or earlier model of flash) carefully, if there are "bubbles" on it or if there is yellowish tint (actually burnt type of tint compare to a new one) or see or feel the warp on the fresnel (can be slight to severe) these are the sign of a faulty but still working flash with a probably shorten life span (those who buy second hand flash is the B&S look out for this and beware)
Anyway as stated the is a "limit disable switch" evoke it and the "problem will disappear"
Wah!!!!!!! this is very very very very good advice to noob like me looking to buy second hand flash from B&S.:thumbsup::thumbsup:
chanjyj
New Member
Carry 2 bodies with 2 flash on them will solve alot of problem. alternate body 1, body 2, body 1, body 2....
Another option is to follow some photographers who carry 2 flash and alternate between the 2 flash but I find that I cannot change fast enough so it is 2 bodies for me.
how do u alt the body when u have 24-70mm on cam 1 and 70-200 on cam 2?
or a wedding photographer with a 35mm and an 85mm?
chanjyj
New Member
I let the circumstance control the lens I use to some extent. I can't control everything. :dunno:
If one flash overheated you bobian have to use the other camera already, so you just use whatever lens you have on that camera at that point in time. Usually a WA+Telephoto, so I go from WA to telephoto.
That is for events.
For weddings I have never encountered a need to shoot flash continously until it overheats before. A combination of single shot, large apertures and sometimes, high ISOs.
soeypixels
Senior Member
want to protect the flash then shoot in auto ISO
chanjyj
New Member
IIRC, Auto ISO with flash only works with some cameras like D40. The D80, IIRC doesn't work with it. D300, D2x, D2h, can't recall.
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