Home studio setup


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for studio work, shutter speed is normally set at 1/60
unless you want to introduce some ambient light of movement

ambient light of movement?what's that?

i dont have a blackout room.
so i do not want any ambient lighting to interfere with my shots.
so is 1/60 still a good ss to use?
 

for studio work, shutter speed is normally set at 1/60
unless you want to introduce some ambient light of movement

Yes.... I was going to explain this to her but you did it first. ;)
 

ambient light of movement?what's that?

i dont have a blackout room.
so i do not want any ambient lighting to interfere with my shots.
so is 1/60 still a good ss to use?

sorry typo

should be ambient light or movement
strobes are way brighter than the ambient light
so it should not matter
 

Regardless.... 1/60 or 1/125 is the way to go.

Unless isolated cases, ambient light may actually makes you portraiture looks better.
 

thank you sensei and gandalf.:)
 

So still on for coffee? Maybe we should ask Ortega to come along too.

prefer to ask online.
coffee need to meet.once meet, it will be the first & last you guys come out to entertain me liao.:bsmilie:

ortega gandalfy,i'm immune to spells.the only way to kill me is decapitation.:bsmilie:

stick to topic ya!dont want my thread to be closed.
 

prefer to ask online.
coffee need to meet.once meet, it will be the first & last you guys come out to entertain me liao.:bsmilie:

Don't be shy leh.... I am ok with you asking me. I don't know about 'Mr. Gandalf'.

BTW, I am happily married, so no worries.
 

Don't be shy leh.... I am ok with you asking me. I don't know about 'Mr. Gandalf'.

BTW, I am happily married, so no worries.

I am married too. And need to study for my o levels this year, so no time to think about other things
but it seems that "the headless one" has had some bad experiences

ortega cast "Eye of the beholder" on the headless one
 

thanks for replies again.

managed to borrow a set of studio lights from my friend.
was happily triggering away, and i realised....
when i use 1/400 at 'no matter what aperture', top half of the frame goes black.seems like sync speed problem?can explain why?

when i reduce the shutter speed to about 1/250, then it comes out ok.
you mean studio flash cant go beyond 1/400?:dunno:
That why flash sync speed is marked as 1/250. Any speed above that the 2nd curtain will close before the first curtain is fully open, so you get the top part blocked out. The blackout portion will be more when you increase the shutter speed even more.

If you're using radio trigger for your strobes, even at 1/250, you might still encounter a slight blackout because there is a slight delay for radio trigger. If that does happen, then maybe you can try going slower to 1/200. Otherwise, 1/250 should be fine.
 

Wow! The 2 giants on discussion! Can I just ask if I 1 2 take some small product shots, and I use a light tent with lights on the sides, do I still stick to 1/60? By the way....is there a reason why it's 1/60?

TIA!
 

Wow! The 2 giants on discussion! Can I just ask if I 1 2 take some small product shots, and I use a light tent with lights on the sides, do I still stick to 1/60? By the way....is there a reason why it's 1/60?

TIA!
No reason as long as the camera is able to sync. Unless you're doing mixed lighting (strobes + ambient) then you may need to go slower but never faster than the sync speed otherwise you'll just get a black out portion.

This will not happen on D50 and D70/D70s because the shutter above 1/250 is electronic, so you won't get a blackout portion but will experience an underexposure if the flash duration is longer than the shutter speed itself.
 

Wow! The 2 giants on discussion! Can I just ask if I 1 2 take some small product shots, and I use a light tent with lights on the sides, do I still stick to 1/60? By the way....is there a reason why it's 1/60?

TIA!

good question.
i was about to ask WHY need to stick to 1/60 or 1/125.
other than interference of ambient light, any other reasons?
so if i want to capture a subject freeze in midair, 1/60 is sufficient?i dont think so right?then how to overcome this?
 

good question.
i was about to ask WHY need to stick to 1/60 or 1/125.
other than interference of ambient light, any other reasons?
so if i want to capture a subject freeze in midair, 1/60 is sufficient?i dont think so right?then how to overcome this?

More of a camera limitation issue...

High speed flash sync may be helpful on this....
 

good question.
i was about to ask WHY need to stick to 1/60 or 1/125.
other than interference of ambient light, any other reasons?
so if i want to capture a subject freeze in midair, 1/60 is sufficient?i dont think so right?then how to overcome this?
yes, cut down ambient will do most of the time, the duration of the flash is much faster then the camera shutter speed, you are able to use the flash to freeze the subject, no by shutter speed.
 

good question.
i was about to ask WHY need to stick to 1/60 or 1/125.
other than interference of ambient light, any other reasons?
so if i want to capture a subject freeze in midair, 1/60 is sufficient?i dont think so right?then how to overcome this?

freezeing subject in mid air very easy

pitch dark room and use the flash of light to freeze the object
even a 1 sec shutter speed will do
 

example:

Untitled-1.jpg
 

prefer to ask online.
coffee need to meet.once meet, it will be the first & last you guys come out to entertain me liao.:bsmilie:

ortega gandalfy,i'm immune to spells.the only way to kill me is decapitation.:bsmilie:

stick to topic ya!dont want my thread to be closed.

so, you have horns and tail? nothing to worry, DI to the rescue ...

1)what lens is normally use for studio?for half and full body portraits

2)do i need to use a bigger aperture to isolate subject from backdrop?what is the common aperture to use?f8?

use whatever lens you like, 35mm to 200mm, evne 300mm, if your studio is long enough.

I shoot f11-f16 most of the time, to make sure the entire subject is in focus.
 

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