Home studio setup

[zac08]

Thanks Jeanie!



Hehe, the chair is the first piece of equipment I have, courtesy of Ikea :bsmilie:

I was thinking of first getting an umbrella (the one with a white surface underneath), and mounting a 580EX speedlite on it. This will get me started at least.

But one thing I feel iffy about the speedlite is, Canon expects the speedlite user to rely on its ETTL II algorithms, and the user is pretty much left to trial-and-error.

Would it be best if I start with say, a small monobloc of 400W? Pls let me know your thoughts, y'all!

You may want to utilise the manual mode on your flash. It's a way to learn how to avoid the auto calculations the flash may do for you.

Monobloc? Why not if your budget allows for it. But do check for the recycling time for the model you intend to acquire. Connection?? Wired or wireless?

 

[lsisaxon]

Hehe, the chair is the first piece of equipment I have, courtesy of Ikea :bsmilie:

Ikea supplied you with the chair free? How did you do that?

 

[mattlock]

wah lao what kind of fked up advice are you getting...
here's the real deal advice on freezing motion

you need to... POWER DOWN YOUR POWERPACK/MONOBLOC TO GET THE SHORTEST FLASH DURATION

you need to use a fast flash duration pack : either Broncolor or Profoto

and very importantly
YOU NEED TO LIGHT THE SUBJECT AS FULLY AS POSSIBLE
usually the feet are caught blurring because not enough light hits it
I learnt this from Sarah Silver who if I remember correctly fills from under with a silver umbrella.

that's a $100 consultation fee, thanks.

 

[lsisaxon]

wah lao what kind of fked up advice are you getting...
here's the real deal advice on freezing motion

you need to... POWER DOWN YOUR POWERPACK/MONOBLOC TO GET THE SHORTEST FLASH DURATION

you need to use a fast flash duration pack : either Broncolor or Profoto

and very importantly
YOU NEED TO LIGHT THE SUBJECT AS FULLY AS POSSIBLE
usually the feet are caught blurring because not enough light hits it
I learnt this from Sarah Silver who if I remember correctly fills from under with a silver umbrella.

that's a $100 consultation fee, thanks.

This advice is as fked up, isn't it? There are already numerous posts which says to use as low as power as possible to get the shortest flash duration. Plus, if the only source of light is from the flashes, not getting enough light will only result in less exposure. It will not and should not result in a blur.

 

[mattlock]

This advice is as fked up, isn't it? There are already numerous posts which says to use as low as power as possible to get the shortest flash duration. Plus, if the only source of light is from the flashes, not getting enough light will only result in less exposure. It will not and should not result in a blur.

I'm referring to the person who gave advice on fuller power= shorter flash duration

also, regarding the amount of light,why don't you try it first and then tell me whether I'm right or wrong?

 

[lsisaxon]

I'm referring to the person who gave advice on fuller power= shorter flash duration

also, regarding the amount of light,why don't you try it first and then tell me whether I'm right or wrong?

Oh paiseh.. din know which post you were referring to. Thought you were referring to all the posts in general.

You are right only if there is ambient light and the shutter speed used is quite low (most SLRs sync at quite a low shutter speed anyway). So if those area is lit up more by the ambient light than with the strobes, the exposure will be the duration of the shutter speed used.

 

[mattlock]

Oh paiseh.. din know which post you were referring to. Thought you were referring to all the posts in general.

You are right only if there is ambient light and the shutter speed used is quite low (most SLRs sync at quite a low shutter speed anyway). So if those area is lit up more by the ambient light than with the strobes, the exposure will be the duration of the shutter speed used.

No, I stick by what I say. try it and you will understand.
I used to do alot of dance photography involving no ambient light
it has to do with the bouncing back of light from surfaces too
but that's another story for another time...

 

[jeanie]

wah lao what kind of fked up advice are you getting...
here's the real deal advice on freezing motion

you need to... POWER DOWN YOUR POWERPACK/MONOBLOC TO GET THE SHORTEST FLASH DURATION

you need to use a fast flash duration pack : either Broncolor or Profoto

and very importantly
YOU NEED TO LIGHT THE SUBJECT AS FULLY AS POSSIBLE
usually the feet are caught blurring because not enough light hits it
I learnt this from Sarah Silver who if I remember correctly fills from under with a silver umbrella.

that's a $100 consultation fee, thanks.

thanks for your consultation mattlock.
but if i light them up evenly, wouldnt that be 'flat lighting'?:dunno:
i know the solution is to get fast flash pack but i've already gotten bowens, so the option is out.

 

[vince123123]

I think what he means is lighting up the whole subject, not so much even or not even. His example seems to suggest a situation where the head and body are lighted, but not the feet.

thanks for your consultation mattlock.
but if i light them up evenly, wouldnt that be 'flat lighting'?:dunno:
i know the solution is to get fast flash pack but i've already gotten bowens, so the option is out.

 

[jeanie]

I think what he means is lighting up the whole subject, not so much even or not even. His example seems to suggest a situation where the head and body are lighted, but not the feet.

oh ok.i got it.

 

[Errz]

paiseh sala