Home studio setup

[jeanie]

freezeing subject in mid air very easy

pitch dark room and use the flash of light to freeze the object
even a 1 sec shutter speed will do

oic.so does that mean if i want to do a shot like 'taiji master' and showing the trails of the movements of the arms, i cant use slower shutter speed of 1/30 or even 1/15?

so, in this opposite scenario, instead of freezing, how do i capture the swaying motions?

also, must be pitch blackroom to capture freezing motions?no need right?

 

[jeanie]

More of a camera limitation issue...

High speed flash sync may be helpful on this....

does the flash FP mode works on studio strobes or only sb800?:dunno:

 

[jeanie]

example:

very nice.can share what kind of settings used?

 

[jeanie]

so, you have horns and tail? nothing to worry, DI to the rescue ...



use whatever lens you like, 35mm to 200mm, evne 300mm, if your studio is long enough.

I shoot f11-f16 most of the time, to make sure the entire subject is in focus.

but stopping aperture too far down the IQ will suffer from diffraction?
so is it still advisable to use till f16?

 

[Splutter]

Diffraction usually isn't that obvious lah, even less so on more tele lenses. That said,I usually shoot at F11 though, but more due to the lack of power from my strobes :bsmilie:

AFAIK, FP modes only works on speedlites.

 

[jeanie]

Diffraction usually isn't that obvious lah, even less so on more tele lenses. That said,I usually shoot at F11 though, but more due to the lack of power from my strobes :bsmilie:

oic.
k, i will stick to f8-11, and shutter speeds of 1/60 or 1/125.

ok.next ques, what happens if i use the above combination settings, and my subject is overexpose?do i move the lights further back?

 

[Splutter]

You have 5 options.

1) Move lights back
2) Use lower power settings
3) Use smaller aperture
4) Put a ND filter(s) on your lights
5) Put ND filter on your lens


Most ppl will do 1 and 2, since its a studio and you should have optimum control of light power and placement.

PS: I persoanlly prefer to shoot at max sync speed, which is 1/250 on my camera. I believe these days most strobes can keep up.

 

[jeanie]

You have 5 options.

1) Move lights back
2) Use lower power settings
3) Use smaller aperture
4) Put a ND filter(s) on your lights
5) Put ND filter on your lens


Most ppl will do 1 and 2, since its a studio and you should have optimum control of light power and placement.

PS: I persoanlly prefer to shoot at max sync speed, which is 1/250 on my camera. I believe these days most strobes can keep up.

thanks splutter:heart:

 

[Splutter]

Anything for u :devil:

Hey u still up for the car shoot? ;p

 

[catchlights]

very nice.can share what kind of settings used?

f11, 1/250s, 1 main, 1 fill, 2 background light, with room ambient light on (ambient light is more than 5 stops under, so I don't need to switch it off)

 

[ortega]

oic.so does that mean if i want to do a shot like 'taiji master' and showing the trails of the movements of the arms, i cant use slower shutter speed of 1/30 or even 1/15?

so, in this opposite scenario, instead of freezing, how do i capture the swaying motions?

also, must be pitch blackroom to capture freezing motions?no need right?

to capture the swaying motion with a sharp and well exposed end action

you need to use ambient light together with the strobes

first you shoot with a slow shutter speed and ambient light to capture the motion
and once the end action is set you trigger the strobe manually

something like rear curtain sync on your SB800, where the flash is triggered at the end of the exposure.

 

[jeanie]

Anything for u :devil:

Hey u still up for the car shoot? ;p

car shoot?you mean my family lexus?i'm not confident of driving it.too big for my liking.
c how it goes lor.i'm still very shy of meeting people...:embrass:
sorry.

 

[jeanie]

f11, 1/250s, 1 main, 1 fill, 2 background light, with room ambient light on (ambient light is more than 5 stops under, so I don't need to switch it off)

so room light whether tungsten or fluorescent makes no diff right?since it's 5 stops under.

from your pics, can i assume your main light is on your left since boy is facing left?so fill is on your right?and fill is how many stops under wrt main?

i appreciate the explanations.thanks

 

[jeanie]

to capture the swaying motion with a sharp and well exposed end action

you need to use ambient light together with the strobes

first you shoot with a slow shutter speed and ambient light to capture the motion
and once the end action is set you trigger the strobe manually

something like rear curtain sync on your SB800, where the flash is triggered at the end of the exposure.

but does that mean my ambient light MUST match my strobe light for color temp else there will be color cast?
how to have ambient light that matches strobes temp?closest is daylight right?

 

[Splutter]

Well I shoot other cars too :sweatsm: I'm even more shy!

As far as possible, try to match the colour temps lor. Can use gel or whatever to correct.

 

[ortega]

but does that mean my ambient light MUST match my strobe light for color temp else there will be color cast?
how to have ambient light that matches strobes temp?closest is daylight right?

the motion captured should be a ghost effect so, IMHO the cast would not matter
yes daylight is right, there are some constant daylight temp light

or easier way is to use tungsten ambient light with tungsten WB and put a gel on your strobes

 

[jeanie]

Well I shoot other cars too :sweatsm: I'm even more shy!

As far as possible, try to match the colour temps lor. Can use gel or whatever to correct.

but if you look like your avatar, i'll go out with you anytime.
:bsmilie:

gels as in those gels that comes with sb800?
do they sell big ones for studio lights?but anyway this studio lights was borrowed.so no point i go get gels.:dunno:

 

[Splutter]

Yes they do sell it in big sheets. I know CP and Ruby carries them. Slightly lousier in quality, thinner than those that your speedlite use, but it's just meant to correct colour and doesn't affect IQ. I bought mine from BHPhoto when I was in NY, so much cheaper than in SG :bsmilie:

Anyway, if you haven't got your strobes yet. Just get what is necessary and build up from there on. There's seriously too many permutations to try out if you get everything one shot.

Looks like I have to go rent a costume soon...

 

[jeanie]

the motion captured should be a ghost effect so, IMHO the cast would not matter
yes daylight is right, there are some constant daylight temp light

or easier way is to use tungsten ambient light with tungsten WB and put a gel on your strobes

these gels, do they sell in EXACT color temp?i mean...tungsten lightings got so many types.how do i know which brand/color of gel will be compatible with 'whatever-kind-of tungsten lights'?

sound troublesome to setup.

 

[ortega]

these gels, do they sell in EXACT color temp?i mean...tungsten lightings got so many types.how do i know which brand/color of gel will be compatible with 'whatever-kind-of tungsten lights'?

sound troublesome to setup.

should have
but as i said the slight cast would not matter since the image of the motion will have a ghosting effect