Should I buy the 24-70 II or the TS-E 17?


Yea I didn't know what I wanted like you TS...so I got both.:bsmilie:

8096663208_0530cdde54_c.jpg


I must say this though, I am tremendously enjoying the TS-E 17 and its usage and not just primarily from the tilting function. The manual focusing really allows me to put a lot of thinking into how i should compose and there is a sort of joy to be derived from that...

yup this is the way everyone should do things.

Just buy everything.
 

My body is 5D mark II, I just sold my 16-35 II and 50mm 1 month ago, and got the 70-200 F2.8 II IS for shooting portrait and something far away.
I like the 70-200 a lot, but it can't shoot photo inside room, or shoot landscape, so my plan is to get another lens for in room/landscape.

Should I get the 24-70 or the TS-E 17? I think the range 24-70 is not useful, I can move forward or backward to cover it.
The TS-E 17 is amazing, has many creative usage, can it shoot people? (sorry my English is not good:)
Which one should I get?


If you have used 16-35 before, you should have noticed that distortion is very bad at 16 mm and gets marginally acceptable at 24 mm. This means that if you'd like to take indoor portraits using 16-35 mm you should not use any focal length below 24 mm. Based on that I think you might have made a mistake in selling the 16-35 mm.

Anyway, TS-E17 as I know is a tilt shift lens. I don't see why you'd need the tilt-shift effect when shooting indoors. And I think you need to research further on what tilt-shift lens are used for. I have personally used 16-35 to take indoor events and indoor stills. I think its a very good lens.

As for your case now, if you don't need all the special effects that TS-E17 offers, you might as well get the 24-70 II. I think its a more useful lens than TS-E17 which has specialized usage. I might also add on that at F4, TS-E17 does not necessarily make a good indoor event shot or portraits.
 

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As for your case now, if you don't need all the special effects that TS-E17 offers, you might as well get the 24-70 II. I think its a more useful lens than TS-E17 which has specialized usage. I might also add on that at F4, TS-E17 does not necessarily make a good indoor event shot or portraits.

Honestly, if any one can use the TSE-17 to do events, I really salute them. They need to manually focus PLUS watch out for that huge piece of glass in front.
 

eleveninth said:
yup this is the way everyone should do things.

Just buy everything.

Of course, we're in Singapore. If you don't buy you might loose your EP. ;-)
 

Funny.... in the first post and title.. u ask if u should buy 24-70.. at the same time...your first post also say 24-70 range is not useful. Sorry? :dunno:

Anyway..24-70 and a T/s 17 are so much different lens on its own. How to compare.. Now if the 24-70 is not what u want.. Why not or maybe u should consider to just get a 17-40 or buy back the 16-35 II..which is v fine lens. At least they are 17..but not T/s lens though.
 

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I will buy the TS-E 17.
Cos it got T and S. :cool:

If%20you%20know%20what%20I%20mean..png
 

I only had one thought on my mind: wah TS damn rich sia.
 

Yea I didn't know what I wanted like you TS...so I got both.:bsmilie:

8096663208_0530cdde54_c.jpg


I must say this though, I am tremendously enjoying the TS-E 17 and its usage and not just primarily from the tilting function. The manual focusing really allows me to put a lot of thinking into how i should compose and there is a sort of joy to be derived from that...


people have warned me before that this forum contains contagious BBB virus, i thought i'd be fine.. i thought i'd be immune to this virus... i thought i was going to be different...

but dang... look at that set up.... i'm gonna have to sign off and go on a cold turkey now.
 

gabthong said:
people have warned me before that this forum contains contagious BBB virus, i thought i'd be fine.. i thought i'd be immune to this virus... i thought i was going to be different...

but dang... look at that set up.... i'm gonna have to sign off and go on a cold turkey now.

May I ask what does bbb virus mean?
 

bbb = buy buy buy n then become bye bye bye $ $ $
 

SNAPDINER said:
bbb = buy buy buy n then become bye bye bye $ $ $

Sorry, I didn't know this is kind of disturb, sorry for that! :)
 

Back to topic, I seriously think that these 2 lenses should not be put together and consider which is which. However, it's the matter of what you need. As mentioned, TS lens is a very specialized lens. Therefore, it might limit your shot on certain environment and shooting condition. On other hand, TS allows you to explore your creativities and try new things. The 24-70, which I personally owned the version 1, I would recommend you if you are doing mostly casual shoot on daily basis. Occasionally, you can rent a TS lens to play with if you are in the mood of shooting something different.

My opinions are, buy 24-70 if you are doing mostly casual shooting and rent the TS lens when needed. Or, vice versa.
 

people have warned me before that this forum contains contagious BBB virus, i thought i'd be fine.. i thought i'd be immune to this virus... i thought i was going to be different...

but dang... look at that set up.... i'm gonna have to sign off and go on a cold turkey now.

Warning: Only the Far Mid-East Antarctic Shamen-Tensel Monks have successfully gone cold turkey. But even for them decades of intellectual study and intense training is required to combat the highly infectious and virulent BBB virus. Sadly many have tried... many have failed. :cry:

For the rest of us, the only known cure is to buy copious amounts camera equipment. But even this kind of cure is short lived.
sweat.gif
In short, the camera hobbyist is doomed... and couldn't be happier.
 

Sounds to me the 24-70 is what you need. IMO, unless u are going for creative effects, don't use wider than 28mm indoors for capturing of people.
 

Tamron 24-70VC + samyang 14

Covered top to toe
 

Well... one thing I have to point out here after reading through some of the comments here... TS-E (tilt shift lenses) are perfectly capable of taking portrait shots as well as group photo. It is just that not many people do that, but it does not mean, this lens cannot do it.

Photography Q&A | Tilt Shift Lens (aka “how did you get that blur?”) » Michelle Moore

And if TS really want to try it or have the money to get that lens and play around with it, then by all means, it is a fun lens to use.

Second, there really is nothing wrong with using fully manual lens to capture event, before AF came into place, photographers had been using manual focus in events and sports and if they can do it, I don't see why TS or anyone now couldn't, it needed practice and lots of patients thats all.
 

My body is 5D mark II, I just sold my 16-35 II and 50mm 1 month ago, and got the 70-200 F2.8 II IS for shooting portrait and something far away.
I like the 70-200 a lot, but it can't shoot photo inside room, or shoot landscape, so my plan is to get another lens for in room/landscape.

Should I get the 24-70 or the TS-E 17? I think the range 24-70 is not useful, I can move forward or backward to cover it.
The TS-E 17 is amazing, has many creative usage, can it shoot people? (sorry my English is not good:)
Which one should I get?

Focal length wise, using a TSE17mm will not differ much from shooting people with the 16mm end of your 16-35mm.
The 24-70mm would probably be more useful in that respect.

Landscape can be done with a wide variety of focal lengths as well. And save the tilt/shift function, alot of it will be much like the 16mm end of the 16-35 as well. Of course with stitching up shifted frames, the resulting focal length equivalent of the whole panorama will be much wider.

Vision is highly subjective. I have a 17mm TSE which I love for landscape work but not for people shooting, but you might find an unconventional utility for it. I have done tilted people shooting at longer focal lengths though.

**

Having said that, the 17 TSE can slightly negate the issue of stretched out portraits when placing humans at the edges of a photo with wide lenses.

With a left shift, you can place the subject at the extreme right of the frame - > the extreme distortion goes to the left of the picture instead.

Likewise with a rightward shift, you can place ur human subject to the left of the frame.

All of it boils down to TSE lenses has a large image circle and by placing your human subjects at the central part of the image circle. Existing 17m TSE users might understand what I am trying to say.

Ryan
 

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