Share some MF photos ...


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Taken using the old 2 element Seagull. Used to sell for old $75 and looks pretty badly built.
Has the nostalgia of old cameras.
Still ok on B&W but since got 12 rolls of expired film, tried it instead.

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New Seagull 4B-1 , Fuji Provia 100

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New Seagull 4B-1 , Fuji Provia 100

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HOLGA! Modified. The flash setting is a dud. I pasted a black hard paper, and pierce a hole making it to be F11 or F16. Flash on Fuji NPH film.

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Hi noelleong , is that model your 'permanent' contact??
 

Here's some from a few recent rolls

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I use Epson V700 for both 35mm and 120.
 

Hasselblad, 180mm, Ilford Delta 400
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Hasselblad, 180mm, Ilford Delta 400
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Her expression looks like...:sweat: Anyway, I'm kidding man. All the pics you showed here, are they prints or both scan plus prints?
 

:bsmilie: I just posted that for fun ...

Most are just scans of the negatives/slides ... I don't remember which of them are from print.

I concur with what Ansel mentioned earlier, scans from prints usually look better tonally, as all the tones are taken care of when making the print, unlike in scanning negatives or slides where one has to "fix" it after or while scanning.

But once scanned, either from print or film, the power of digital is really in further creative potential, at least for those who know how to use Photoshop or other tools.

Here are some scanned from print, from a Hassy:
Tri-X
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Ilford
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On candid shots, I meter same as non-candid. With more time, I prefer to spot meter. On the streets, I use a tiny Gossen, mostly reflective than incident.

For below, assume all manual, no AE, no AF.

IMHO, if it only takes 5 seconds for example, and caught unprepared, one may or many not have to say goodbye to the shot, assuming everything is manual - metering, setting speed and aperture, focusing.

IMHO, the key is being prepared.

- In this shot from a Rolleiflex, for example, which I was waiting to happen, I already knew the exposure settings and the distance, and all I needed was to manually focus just a bit when the moment came.
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- For moving shots, in good light, setting the exposure beforehand, and using zone focusing will capture the shot. In this example, I used a Hassy with 180mm, not really ideal for zone focusing because of the very narrow dof scale (80mm and below are easier), but I did it anyway. Zone focusing will be tougher in the night or dim light, but it can be easier with a very wide angle lens. One can also use hyperfocal distance focusing, or infinity focusing, but these 2 are not my preference, acceptable sharpness is not acceptable to me.
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- really no 5 seconds to meter ? No choice, just focus and shoot, and check exposure after the shot. A bit off ? I would compensate during development.

- really no preparation, and no meter even ? On this pic with a Rolleiflex, I just set the exposure to what I thought was right, without metering, quickly focused, and shot. Some burning and dodging helps a bit. Of course, one needs some practice for metering without a meter.
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- screwed up focusing, exposure, even scratched the negative ? everything that can happen happened. I wanted to throw the negative away, but decided to work on the Hassy pic instead and make it faux vintage, leaving the scratches. I like it, and people at Flickr like it as well, so I guess it was still saved in the end.
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Clubgrit the beggar and tj1 shota are perfect.:thumbsup:
 

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Not sure why I pick this photo?:dunno:
 

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Not sure why I pick this photo?:dunno:

The sharpness is around 2-3 inches in front of her eyes. Nevertheless, nice blur achieved.;) Can you recall what aperture was set for this shot plus lens use?
 

The sharpness is around 2-3 inches in front of her eyes. Nevertheless, nice blur achieved.;) Can you recall what aperture was set for this shot plus lens use?

Rolleiflex GX f2.8 with HP5 400
 

First one a bit distracting and not showing the power of the GX .... ;)

I like the second one which you focused on the part man always look at first.

Arrange a shoot lah.
 

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