Old/alternate lenses, adapters, and lens mount conversions.
- Thread starter Ben Ang
- Start date
I hate you guys.........I am terminally ill with poison spread by all of you
haha... i can and will gladly point you to some red dot poison if you wish! :bsmilie: it won't be terminal, it'll be deadly!
Last edited:
typical lens mount conversion in a nut shell:
remove original mount, account for difference in flange distance (add or remove). add on new lens mount. ensure aperture is still adjustable after that.
in detail:
you can find the list of flange distances on wiki and then thats the difference you need to make up for:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance
for example: MD(43.5)-Nikon(46.50). you have to bring the lens elements 3mm closer to the lens mount to achieve infinity focus. you either grind, or adjust the focus helicoid.
the internals of each lens are very different and will affect the complexity of the conversion. for example, Canon FD has its aperture mechanism inside the lens mount itself. and so do some of the konicas. so if you change the lens mount, the aperture ring is no longer linked to the aperture. fast canon FD lenses also have their last element embedded INTO the lens mount. so your new mount must be able to hold this element, at the same distance.
make sure after adjustment, the last element doesnt hit the mirror or mirror box.
replaces the lens mount either with screws, which means you have to drill the holes as well as the indentations for the screw heads, or (only) for smaller lenses, simple use high quality super glue or high grade metal epoxy.
wrap aluminium foil around the last element so no fumes condense on it. if not you ll get haze. wash the surfaces with soap, then rub with alcohol to make sure there's no dirt or residue. for glue, make sure the surfaces in contact are very FLAT. if surface is uneven, epoxy is a better choice. in either case, allow to dry for more than 24Hrs before real use.
and lastly, try not to get frustrated about having to spend 4-5 hours grinding down the difference with a grind stone. for that reason, i no longer convert fd-nikon. haha! all the best and let us know if you have any successful conversions.
remove original mount, account for difference in flange distance (add or remove). add on new lens mount. ensure aperture is still adjustable after that.
in detail:
you can find the list of flange distances on wiki and then thats the difference you need to make up for:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance
for example: MD(43.5)-Nikon(46.50). you have to bring the lens elements 3mm closer to the lens mount to achieve infinity focus. you either grind, or adjust the focus helicoid.
the internals of each lens are very different and will affect the complexity of the conversion. for example, Canon FD has its aperture mechanism inside the lens mount itself. and so do some of the konicas. so if you change the lens mount, the aperture ring is no longer linked to the aperture. fast canon FD lenses also have their last element embedded INTO the lens mount. so your new mount must be able to hold this element, at the same distance.
make sure after adjustment, the last element doesnt hit the mirror or mirror box.
replaces the lens mount either with screws, which means you have to drill the holes as well as the indentations for the screw heads, or (only) for smaller lenses, simple use high quality super glue or high grade metal epoxy.
wrap aluminium foil around the last element so no fumes condense on it. if not you ll get haze. wash the surfaces with soap, then rub with alcohol to make sure there's no dirt or residue. for glue, make sure the surfaces in contact are very FLAT. if surface is uneven, epoxy is a better choice. in either case, allow to dry for more than 24Hrs before real use.
and lastly, try not to get frustrated about having to spend 4-5 hours grinding down the difference with a grind stone. for that reason, i no longer convert fd-nikon. haha! all the best and let us know if you have any successful conversions.
Last edited:
brought the minolta 200mm f/3.5 out to play today. its indeed very very nice. almost no CA, sharp, and contrasty. here're some shots. all without sharpening. and all wide open on a d200:
they seem quite abit softer here than befre uploading.. well, if anyone wants a larger size or 100% crop just let me know.
they seem quite abit softer here than befre uploading.. well, if anyone wants a larger size or 100% crop just let me know.
Last edited:
ManWearPants
Senior Member
any recommendations for a fast 400mm prime?
ManWearPants
Senior Member
fast as in for action, sports and transition use. So there is no alternative 400mm with f4 aperture lens?
I know I can do a search but if anyone knows, a quick answer will be helpful.
I know I can do a search but if anyone knows, a quick answer will be helpful.
Im not sure there is the MF 400/4. Do u know EF 400/4. That is huge and heavy. Moreover, in the 80s, the technique of super wide and super tele was not good. The widest lens you can find around 20mm (dont count FE 17, 16, 14, 8mm), and the super tele 500,800mm was usually reflex lens. There were also 500mm non-reflex, but that was very long, 500mm = 0.5m :"D
back to 400/f4, i confirm that no MF lens, there is only 400mm/5.6
Last edited:
nikon has a 400 f/3.5 ED IF, tamron has a 400 f4, and canon has a 400 f/4.5 FD ssc.
tamron:
http://makingnottaking.blogspot.com/2010/04/tamron-sp-400mm-f4-ld-if-065b-it-has.html
canon:
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/fdlenses/400mm.htm
alternatively, a 300 f/2.8 with 1.4 TC would be good. tokina has a 300 f/2.8 AT-X Pro which i have at the moment. very very sharp and fast AF. can get it about 1-1.2k US on ebay..
Anthony Lee
Senior Member
Ben:Thanks for the fantastic write-up on lens modification. Unfortunately I am too noob in this area to do such mod. Your Minolta lenses are excellent. Can they be modified to EOS mount?
MWP: Just read the PEN EPL2 review by the moderators here and it looks extremely good. Put on an EVF and with IBIS, my OM 200f4(only 420 gm) can handhold and boy I get 400mm. Going to wait a bit for the body price to come down and I will have a pretty good and cheap back-up for all my old lenses.
MWP: Just read the PEN EPL2 review by the moderators here and it looks extremely good. Put on an EVF and with IBIS, my OM 200f4(only 420 gm) can handhold and boy I get 400mm. Going to wait a bit for the body price to come down and I will have a pretty good and cheap back-up for all my old lenses.
Anthony Lee
Senior Member
Ben, Nikkor lenses, especially the AIS series are so wonderful, why are you looking at others.
Here is a shot with the Nikkor 50f1.4 at f2 on my old 40D. What do you think?
Here is a shot with the Nikkor 50f1.4 at f2 on my old 40D. What do you think?
yes the are mostly good.
the nikkor 135 f2.8 and 200 f4 lenses are not very sharp and have low contrast. their built quality, while not lousy, weren't as solid as these minoltas either. which is why even though i ve converted alot of other lenses, these are the only 2 i still have.. they were also alot cheaper than the nikkors. im considering a minolta 85 1.7 next, but they re so ex cos they re rare..
as for nikkors, i have the 35 f2, 50 1.2, 5.8cm 1.4, 135 f2, 300 f4. i would like to get the 20 2.8 and 85 1.4, but no budget for those atm..
i have used:
24 2.8 pre ai - ok only
28 f2 v nice, but not nice on DX
35 f2 pre ai- v good, some flare
35 f2 ais - still testing and playing with.
50 1.2 - superb skin tone rendition, v nice bokeh, v sharp even wide open
50 1.4 - so so
50 f2 - really good
50 1.8 ais, last version - not bad
5.8cm 1.4 - not super sharp, but super good bokeh
85 f2- so so
105 1.8 - beautiful bokeh, but not very crisp wide open (kept the 135 f2 instead)
135 f2 - some problems with purple fringing, but otherwise super good! very special look
135 f2.8 - so so
180 2.8 ED - superb!
200 f4 - so so
300 f4.5 if ed- pretty good.
you r welcome =) yes, in fact, it ll be even easier converting to eos than nikon.
Last edited:
Anthony Lee
Senior Member
I have tested and owned only 3, all AIS, the 35f2, 50f1.4 and 105f2.5. All of them are very good on Canon sensors, especially the 40D and my current 5D. Somehow, along the way, I picked up one whole bunch of OM lenses (24f2.8, 35f2, 50f3.5 macro, 50f1.4, 100f2.8, 200f4, 35-70f3.6) and an OM-2SP from a collector and they are all absolutely mint with boxes and papers. Because of this, I streamlined my collection and gave up the 3 Nikkor lenses which I am still regretting. I tried the Nikkor 200f4 AIS but the OM 200f4 is much better. Just missed an OM 50f2 macro at BnS that went for slight more than S$300 only.
ManWearPants
Senior Member
I want something longer than 300mm native (without TC). Olympus OM has a 350/2.8 but that is too expensive.
I want to try thin DoF and very blur OoF for tele subjects. But lens must be cheap also. Seems like no cheap and good tele
That is an obscene price for this piece of lens.
Last edited:
the 105 f2.5 is really something.. until you try the 105 1.8. haha. but both are superb lenses. OMs are v nice too. converted the 135 2.8 and 35 f2. you got a great deal on that! very very difficult to find original boxes and manuals. i ve got the lens brochure and OM 1 manual, but thinking of selling my om 1...
they made a 50 f2 macro for their OM system? i thought that was 4/3... i ve been poisoned...
also looking around for the 80 f4 macro..Anthony Lee
Senior Member
the 105 f2.5 is really something.. until you try the 105 1.8. haha. but both are superb lenses. OMs are v nice too. converted the 135 2.8 and 35 f2. you got a great deal on that! very very difficult to find original boxes and manuals. i ve got the lens brochure and OM 1 manual, but thinking of selling my om 1...
they made a 50 f2 macro for their OM system? i thought that was 4/3... i ve been poisoned...
I didn't notice it until I was too late. The OM 50f2 macro is very rare and that was the only one I have here at BnS over the last one year, should sell at least S$ 500-600 and this guy sold it for less than S$350. The OM 90f2 macro is better.
I paid quite a good price as I bought all at one go. All of them are the latest MC versions and my OM 50f1.4 s/no is greater than 1.1 million. The 35f2 has a very late s/no and was told that it was the last batch manufactured. The 100f2,8 is so good that I gave up on the 105f2.5 AIS.
ManWearPants
Senior Member
..
I am sure you already know. The OM 80/4 requires either a bellow or the auto-extension tube. And there are 2 versions of the same lens.
I have had the AIS 20/2.8 for a short while and did not quite like it. The colours are flat and lack contrast. The lens flares and ghost easily. I have seen others mentioned the 20/3.5 is better. I have settled for OM 21/3.5. IMO, it is very usable.
Last edited:
My friend sell All AIs (4 lens only $100)
Unluckily, i cannt buy T_T
http://xomnhiepanh.com/index.php?mod=raovat&act=detail&id=66765
Unluckily, i cannt buy T_T
http://xomnhiepanh.com/index.php?mod=raovat&act=detail&id=66765
Similar threads
