Sony A33


Hi guys need some pointers on a function of A33.

There is a function that take 3 different shots and combine into 1 image. Do your know how / where can i activate that mode?

I would also like to check on the 18-250mm len. May I check where can I get this len at an reasonable rate and what brand of len can i get?

The A33 i got at the pc show comes with a 18-55mm len. Am I right to say that by getting a 18-250 mm len i can have the capability of the current 18-55mm len plus 55-250mm which allows me to zoom in further. Am i right to say so?

Will a 18-250 len good for vacation/travel photo taking?

I think you're refering to the HDR (High Dynamic Range) mode, this is useful for very difficult lighting situations. You press the D-Range button (on top) and select either DRO off, DRO(Lv 1 to 6) and HDR(Lv 1 to 6)

There is also Multi Frame NR for reducing noise with high ISO in Low light situation.

The 18-250 is excellent for travelling if you only want to bring one lens.
 

I think you're refering to the HDR (High Dynamic Range) mode, this is useful for very difficult lighting situations. You press the D-Range button (on top) and select either DRO off, DRO(Lv 1 to 6) and HDR(Lv 1 to 6)

There is also Multi Frame NR for reducing noise with high ISO in Low light situation.

The 18-250 is excellent for travelling if you only want to bring one lens.

Great. Let me try it out later when i get home :)

Do you know roughly the price of a new & 2nd hand 18-250 lens?

What are some other brand of the 18-250 len is compatible with A33? Might want to invest in 1 soon :)
 

Great. Let me try it out later when i get home :)

Do you know roughly the price of a new & 2nd hand 18-250 lens?

What are some other brand of the 18-250 len is compatible with A33? Might want to invest in 1 soon :)

Good luck ! ...btw, to select the Multi-Frame NR ...go to the ISO menu. It is right at the very top, above Auto ISO (its the only sub menu you can press left and right there)

Sony 18-250 SRP is $899 ...street price should be around $800, go search in the BnS section for second hand ...range from $500+ to $700+

Sigma and Tamron also have 18-250, I prefer Sony as it's a well known fact that Tamron's version has slower AF and Sigma's version have quite a few reports of stripped AF gears not to mention compatibility.
 

Good luck ! ...btw, to select the Multi-Frame NR ...go to the ISO menu. It is right at the very top, above Auto ISO (its the only sub menu you can press left and right there)

Sony 18-250 SRP is $899 ...street price should be around $800, go search in the BnS section for second hand ...range from $500+ to $700+

Sigma and Tamron also have 18-250, I prefer Sony as it's a well known fact that Tamron's version has slower AF and Sigma's version have quite a few reports of stripped AF gears not to mention compatibility.

the sigma lens problems are those old old lens, made during the film era.

Newer lens made in the past few years wont hv such problems.
 

Pls Pardon me as i am a beginer .
I heard from my friend that shooting directly at the sun will spolit the sensor.
1) Is it true ?

2) What is the thread for A33 ?

Though of buying a ND filter & a Hoya R72 for IR.
3) Any recommandation from Senior here for these filter & their price?

4) A Raynox R250 for micro shot is it better than the sony lens (SAM 30mmF2.8 at $319) ?

Any expert or senoir can advice.

Thanks in advance
 

Hi all. Is the overheating problem of the A33/A55 still bothering you all? Is there ways to overcome it? Is the overheating predictable?

Thanks.
 

Hi all. Is the overheating problem of the A33/A55 still bothering you all? Is there ways to overcome it? Is the overheating predictable?

Thanks.

So far so good for me yesterday me and my family went to Universal Studio and I have not enocountered any over heating problem or my cam shutsdown... seen the warning when I was doing video for 6mins then I remember to shut off the SSS after which I took another 6 mins vid and all ok no warning sign

I've finished 8GB card (shoot in raw + jpeg) and finished 1 battery and the 2nd battery was around 65% left after. We arrive at the site around 12:30PM and came out 8:30PM so good 8hrs inside the them park... I must say the performance is very good... I've snap close to 400 photos since I am shooting JPEG+RAW my photos are close to 800 :) :thumbsup::thumbsup:

I've took alot of low and night shot all hand held and all photos are usable I just kept my ISO low as possible (400 and 800, sometimes shoot at 1600) so I could print larger the 4R :)

BTW I am using Tamron 17-50 f2.8 most of the time:thumbsup:
 

Pls Pardon me as i am a beginer .
I heard from my friend that shooting directly at the sun will spolit the sensor.
1) Is it true ?
thanks in advance

I only read before where by this guy detached his lens, and used bulb mode accidentally .. so the sensor got fried ..
 

Pls Pardon me as i am a beginer .
I heard from my friend that shooting directly at the sun will spolit the sensor.
1) Is it true ?

2) What is the thread for A33 ?

Though of buying a ND filter & a Hoya R72 for IR.
3) Any recommandation from Senior here for these filter & their price?

4) A Raynox R250 for micro shot is it better than the sony lens (SAM 30mmF2.8 at $319) ?

Any expert or senoir can advice.

Thanks in advance

1) shouldn't be too much of a problem unless you are intentionally trying to damage the sensor by super overexposing (opening the shutter longer than it is supposed to be)

2) Camera has no thread, thread is for lens.

3) You pay for what you get. You can go cheap ones from China brands like Tianya etc. for 10 to 50 bucks but the quality (and QC) will not be as good as say the high end ones like B+W. If you are just trying out for fun, go ahead and get the Tianya ones.. you might get some colour cast though, but its a cheap way to try what you need and if you feel if you really need this, then you can invest in a B+W. Hoya is a middle class brand though. Its not too cheap yet not too exp, and the quality is decent. you can consider it.

5) You'll still need a pair of lens to shoot macro if you are going to use Raynox. Such conversion filters have their limitations, in the sense that you won't be able to use the focusing ring much (turning it has almost no effect, to understand why, you can go read up on optics in beginner physics). You have to focus using your legs (walk back and forth). A macro lens will not have such problem. However, 30mm is very short and you might have problem shooting insects or things that may be frightened off by you. If you are going to go into macro, invest in a decent lens like the Tamron 90mm or Sony/Minolta 100mm. The good thing about the Raynox is that you can convert any of your existing lens into a pseudo macro lens. To understand more, google is your best friend.
 

the sigma lens problems are those old old lens, made during the film era.

Newer lens made in the past few years wont hv such problems.

Yup, if you got a newer Sigma lens with HSM you won't have that problem but there are a good many Sigma lens that still uses the old screw driven AF system that are at risk (lower end range).

just google 'sigma stripped gears' and you'll see many cases that are quite recent.

Interesting reading here:
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6135891
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=779182

As I've stated, it is not just the plastic gears you've got to worry about, incompatibility with newer bodies is another headache.
 

The issue with with stripped lens mount is a combination of 2 factors. Firstly its because the very old sigma lenses has a very weak plastic mount, those made in the 90s. Sigma lenses made in the past few yrs, be it screw mount or hsm motor, won't have this problem.

The other factor is the power of the screw drive of the a700, a850 and a900. these 3 models have a much stronger drive compared to any other Sony alpha (making them focus faster), thus this combined with the weak mount, caused the mounting to strip.

If You are not using any of the 3 models, there's nothing to worry about. other alphas' screw drive motor is not strong enough to damage the sigma lens, even of it was one of those old and weak ones.
 

1) shouldn't be too much of a problem unless you are intentionally trying to damage the sensor by super overexposing (opening the shutter longer than it is supposed to be)

2) Camera has no thread, thread is for lens.

3) You pay for what you get. You can go cheap ones from China brands like Tianya etc. for 10 to 50 bucks but the quality (and QC) will not be as good as say the high end ones like B+W. If you are just trying out for fun, go ahead and get the Tianya ones.. you might get some colour cast though, but its a cheap way to try what you need and if you feel if you really need this, then you can invest in a B+W. Hoya is a middle class brand though. Its not too cheap yet not too exp, and the quality is decent. you can consider it.

5) You'll still need a pair of lens to shoot macro if you are going to use Raynox. Such conversion filters have their limitations, in the sense that you won't be able to use the focusing ring much (turning it has almost no effect, to understand why, you can go read up on optics in beginner physics). You have to focus using your legs (walk back and forth). A macro lens will not have such problem. However, 30mm is very short and you might have problem shooting insects or things that may be frightened off by you. If you are going to go into macro, invest in a decent lens like the Tamron 90mm or Sony/Minolta 100mm. The good thing about the Raynox is that you can convert any of your existing lens into a pseudo macro lens. To understand more, google is your best friend.

Thanks for info & tip . will google to find out more.:)
 

could u guys enlighten how long u usually charge the a33 batt on the 1st charge and also subsequent ones when batt is flat? many thanks!!
 

could u guys enlighten how long u usually charge the a33 batt on the 1st charge and also subsequent ones when batt is flat? many thanks!!

If I'm not wrong, manual says no need long first charge, but I prefer to err on the side of caution and give it a 8-10hrs as per all lithium batteries.

Subsequently, I just leave it there until the light goes off. Have been doing that for a long time with my A200/A700 batteries and don't see any negative effects.
 

could u guys enlighten how long u usually charge the a33 batt on the 1st charge and also subsequent ones when batt is flat? many thanks!!

Initial two to three charges, I'll leave the battery for about 2-3 hours after the 'charge' light goes out, after that the battery comes out immediately after the light goes out.
 

manual says leave battery in charger for 1 hour after light goes off for Full charge
 

Hi, I am considering the A33 as my first camera.

I was wondering if an adapter is needed for to mount 3rd party lenses like Sigma?
I am not sure if cross-posting is allowed, but if any seniors is willing to help me on questions I have on the A33/Sony system here:

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6656548#post6656548 (in Newbies Corner), please head there!

I can't change my thread title to lure A33 users in :p
 

Hi, I am considering the A33 as my first camera.

I was wondering if an adapter is needed for to mount 3rd party lenses like Sigma?
I am not sure if cross-posting is allowed, but if any seniors is willing to help me on questions I have on the A33/Sony system here:

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6656548#post6656548 (in Newbies Corner), please head there!

I can't change my thread title to lure A33 users in :p

Sony DSLRs/DSLTs can use lenses from Tamron and Sigma without any adaptor that is designed for A-mount.

As for deciding between D3100 and A33, here's something that might help you.
http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/stev...kon-d3100-and-says-he-prefers-the-sony-a3355/
 

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