If really shooting such a big group, I would recommended Mertz:thumbsup: Save all the trouble of carrying the big lights. Learning curve would not be so bad if u are a manual user.
Smurfman, can I chk why not at 1/30?
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If really shooting such a big group, I would recommended Mertz:thumbsup: Save all the trouble of carrying the big lights. Learning curve would not be so bad if u are a manual user.
Smurfman, can I chk why not at 1/30?
I prefer pp ask problem and I guide them to get the solution or else very spoonfed.
Just came back from a shoot and so can only reply now. Just my thoughs.
Shooting at 18mm and 20 mm is about the same if you're using the kit lens, so it makes no diff. If you're using the kit lens than I rather shoot at 18mm and have some space at the side to crop. At least the distortion is be reduced. But this way will also mean that your image will be smaller. You need to weight it and decide yourself. If you're using the 20mm prime than the distortion will be much less.
A common mistake which many make but which is not acceptable for a serious shoot. Using a tripod will allow you to shoot at low shutter speed as your camera is stable/still. But can you say that all 100 people in the group will stay still? If it can capture a correct exposure, it can capture movement. If the image is blown up you may see the movement.
If you're using a wide angle, be careful when doing this. When you move the shot upwards towards the top of the frame with with a wide angle lens, there may be vertical distortion. the other issue is, even after moving, there may still not be enough space ( remember we're talking about 100 person here ) so you may end up cropping the image. Since that is the case, might as well shoot at flat level, crop the top and bottom, open a empty layer and move the cropped image up.
Just my opinion and even if TS have already done the shot and may see this too late, hope others without the knowledge may want to consider my points in future.
Shooting at 18mm and 20 mm is about the same if you're using the kit lens, so it makes no diff. If you're using the kit lens than I rather shoot at 18mm and have some space at the side to crop. At least the distortion is be reduced. But this way will also mean that your image will be smaller. You need to weight it and decide yourself. If you're using the 20mm prime than the distortion will be much less.
A common mistake which many make but which is not acceptable for a serious shoot. Using a tripod will allow you to shoot at low shutter speed as your camera is stable/still. But can you say that all 100 people in the group will stay still? If it can capture a correct exposure, it can capture movement. If the image is blown up you may see the movement.
If you're using a wide angle, be careful when doing this. When you move the shot upwards towards the top of the frame with with a wide angle lens, there may be vertical distortion. the other issue is, even after moving, there may still not be enough space ( remember we're talking about 100 person here ) so you may end up cropping the image. Since that is the case, might as well shoot at flat level, crop the top and bottom, open a empty layer and move the cropped image up.
Just my opinion and even if TS have already done the shot and may see this too late, hope others without the knowledge may want to consider my points in future.
at 1/30, there is a chance of movement by ppl, as its kinda low speed. we are talking abt human here, and not objects. Even mount on tripod, i would suggest higher shutter. even best, TS is newbie, how to ensure that.
I really got to thanks everyone here for helping me out in my shoot today. It turns out very well....I've taken my shot with
D70s Kit lens with SB600
Focal length 27mm
f8
1/25s
ISO 200
with tripod
I don't want to use ISO400 as to minimise the noise as I got a tripod on so I don't have to worry about the slow shutter. Total of 2 groups 1st group 21 people and 2nd group 16 people with same setting except focal length of 29mm.
Picture turns out very good...jus PP abit to sharpen and develop an 8R. Boss were extremely satisified over the turnout of the pic. yey!!
Yeah I think for D70s a 6MP cam can boost to 8R well if its well taken. So thanks again everyone for the help. :thumbsup:
Cheers!!!
D70s Kit lens with SB600
Focal length 27mm
f8
1/25s
ISO 200
with tripod
I don't want to use ISO400 as to minimise the noise as I got a tripod on so I don't have to worry about the slow shutter. Total of 2 groups 1st group 21 people and 2nd group 16 people with same setting except focal length of 29mm.
Picture turns out very good...jus PP abit to sharpen and develop an 8R. Boss were extremely satisified over the turnout of the pic. yey!!
Yeah I think for D70s a 6MP cam can boost to 8R well if its well taken. So thanks again everyone for the help. :thumbsup:
Cheers!!!
Dear sir,
Isn't it in humanity to help whenever you can .. unless you dun live by that mantra, anyway you can always ignore those newbies whenever you want.. coz you do have a choice not to get involve right ??
By the way, i do ABSOLUTELY know what i am talking about, dun over-use that phrase just to make yourself sound logical.
that's bad, you need to make the photo a little bit bad (low resolution), then tell your boss to invest in a D200, so that you can take better pictures in future. good idea?
got tripod no worry abt slow shutter? think again.
also, good for u that everything went well.
While this may be the case most of the time, it have been proven that sometimes you will still see movement at 1/30 with flash. With 100 people, the risk goes up.
This being a group shot with 100 people I would not take the risk. A good exposure is of course important but even a perfectly exposed frame will be useless if there is blur image due to movement. That's the risk the photographer will have to consider.
For me, if I can, I'll shoot a correctly exposed and sharp image, if lighting is bad, I rather shoot a slightly under exposed image, maybe under by 1/2 stop ( 1/30 to 1/60 is less than 1/2 stop ), but the image is still sharp. This way I know for sure that I can bump up the exposure in PS and, get a properly exposed and sharp final image. If I need to balance the risk, this is what I'd rather do.
I beg to differ. 1/30 to 1/60 is not equal to 1 stop, it is not a direct co-relation. Please allow me to give an example.
When shooting on a Mamiya 6X7, the lens is set at 1/2 stop intervals. While shooting on trans for a commercial job, exposure is very important, we need to be very need the perfect exposure, especially so for recopy work of chinese brush paintings where there are lots of gradual tones. Many a times, when we're doing recopy works, a 1/2 stop on trans is too much, ie: f.22 is too bright ( lost details on light shadows/tones ) and f.22 1/2 is too dark ( lost details on dark area/tones ), what we'll do is to stop down the shutter speed, say from 1/125 to 1/250. this will give us an exposure in-between f.22 and f.22 1/2, something like f.22 1/3. This I've tried this on trans. and we know how unforgiving trans is on exposure.
Well I'm not too much of a technical kind of guy so won't know that. I just though that most people assume that 1/30 to 1/60 is 1/2 stop ( which I feel is 1/3 stop ). Well maybe I learn something new today, that people consider 1/30 to 1/60 as 1 stop. Thanks. I'm just giving my point of view from what I've experience and tested.
Cheers!
For film speed/ISO
6, 12, 25, 50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600
For shutter speed
1", 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000, 1/2000, 1/4000
For aperture
1.4, 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, 8.0, 11.0, 16.0, 22.0
Theoretically, all these ratings are in 1stop difference..
Think i rely too much on my camera metering, will check out tonite to verify..:think:
Sorry to the TS as I think I may have started this string of OT. Maybe Blazer_workz may want to start a new thread in the proper sub-forum.
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