Photos taken by a Pentax camera for tech. discussion - Season 0


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I removed the prev post and replaced with this one.
Seems that the photobucket linked pictures are turning out soft.
Seems like I have to find another photo storing site.

best to resize to dimensions smaller than the PB limit before uploading, so they don't do their lousy resizing on it when uploading. once i started doing tt, it was good enough for me so far.
 

best to resize to dimensions smaller than the PB limit before uploading, so they don't do their lousy resizing on it when uploading. once i started doing tt, it was good enough for me so far.

Thanks for the tips. I think the photos are odd sized, and photobucket tries to resize them accordingly.

Here are the photos using the Flickr links
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5440310#post5440310

3921905216_33b3e1fd1c_o.jpg
 

The pinholecam's merlion photo shows alot more distortion compared to night86mare's 2 photos.
Is this because of the composition or choice of subjects?
Or simply because was the merlion photo at 10mm and the other 2 at 20mm?
Very curious, because a lot of UWA photos I took with my Sigma 10-20 also shows substantial distortions.

You mean barrel distortion?
I've don't correct distortions. (not very conscious of them and don't have a software).
Certainly I'd think 10mm would have more barrel distortions
 

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=570674

K-7 + DA70 shot, wide open.

It was after sunset at Hortpark, and getting darkish, and the little one was pedalling straight at me. Got off 2 sharp and in-focus shots before he went past.

:)


ah....DA70....:lovegrin:
Nice shots too. Love the bokeh. Recently revisited my 50 f/1.4 and wow...I almost forgot how good than lens is too. :)
 

The pinholecam's merlion photo shows alot more distortion compared to night86mare's 2 photos.
Is this because of the composition or choice of subjects?
Or simply because was the merlion photo at 10mm and the other 2 at 20mm?
Very curious, because a lot of UWA photos I took with my Sigma 10-20 also shows substantial distortions.

my first picture is taken at 10mm, second picture at 20mm.

in terms of distortion per se, if you are talking about lens characeteristic, then sigma 10-20 controls it pretty well, but not easy to correct, it is the extreme corners that are pulled in the barrel fashion, the usual photoshop lens distort function will not correct this, you need liquify.

as for vertical,horizontal, all these can be taken care of when composing the picture. hope this helps.
 

K20 / Yashica Yashinon 135mm f2.8 M42 mount

Just bought this lens from a CS menber,took some daylight shots with my family this evening.
I love the colour contrast & fine creamy bokeh from this lens but still not forgetting my
trusty K20D performance.

Taking little children with MF lens is not easy task for me but still manage to snap a few
shots to show...:sweat:

Eunice's is 4 mths+ now, i think is time for me to bring her for a good hair cut already.:bsmilie:
IMGP9467.jpg


My wife Dorothy & Eunice..Smiling!!
IMGP9497.jpg
 

ah....DA70....:lovegrin:
Nice shots too. Love the bokeh. Recently revisited my 50 f/1.4 and wow...I almost forgot how good than lens is too. :)

Thanks :)

Agree with the quality of the 50. It used to be an ever-present on my K100Ds. First prime, and what made me a prime user. Coming from a megazoom bridge camera background -- for 5 years! -- the getting-used-to-a-whole-new-perspective and style of shooting curve was a steep one. But once over it, I'm cruising along happily on a gentle prime slope. :P
 

K20 / Yashica Yashinon 135mm f2.8 M42 mount

Just bought this lens from a CS menber,took some daylight shots with my family this evening.
I love the colour contrast & fine creamy bokeh from this lens but still not forgetting my
trusty K20D performance.

Taking little children with MF lens is not easy task for me but still manage to snap a few
shots to show...:sweat:

Eunice's is 4 mths+ now, i think is time for me to bring her for a good hair cut already.:bsmilie:

Lovely girl! Still in that balding hairstyle stage though... Botak would be good! :D

On the technical side, that's an exotic lens, and from the photos, I guess there's no really bad old prime lenses around. It looks great.
 

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Lovely girl! Still in that balding hairstyle stage though... Botak would be good! :D

On the technical side, that's an exotic lens, and from the photos, I guess there's no really bad old prime lenses around. It looks great.

Tks prince,i enjoy with it!
yes i going cut her Botak head but she look more like a boy then..:bsmilie:
 

You mean barrel distortion?
I've don't correct distortions. (not very conscious of them and don't have a software).
Certainly I'd think 10mm would have more barrel distortions

my first picture is taken at 10mm, second picture at 20mm.

in terms of distortion per se, if you are talking about lens characeteristic, then sigma 10-20 controls it pretty well, but not easy to correct, it is the extreme corners that are pulled in the barrel fashion, the usual photoshop lens distort function will not correct this, you need liquify.

as for vertical,horizontal, all these can be taken care of when composing the picture. hope this helps.

Not sure what barrel distortions are.
But I was referring to "collapsing" buildings and "stretching" in the corners.
So from night86mare's reply, the "stretching" cannot really be helped?
Just try to avoid having subjects there that make the stretching obvious?
And the "collapsing" buildings can be taken care of during composition?
 

barrel distortion, see here

the stretching is due to lens characteristic, the collapsing buildings is due to angling up of camera when taking shot, if you stand in a corner of your room and look up, the walls are no longer perfectly vertical.

maybe something i wrote a while back here might help. the collapsing can be helped, and can be corrected in post process at the expense of losing pixels and parts of your composition. the stretching can't really be helped, but can be corrected in post process.
 

Went out to Orchard to do some street photography and also to test the lens i bought from lawrence (nik34). thanks dude! i love the lens! ;)

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=575559

The lens is in good hand bro,more pls...:bsmilie:

haha! thanks dude! yeah will try to go to the SG import night on sat or sunday. will be takin pictures there ;)
 

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My adapter finally came. Here's my longest "K-mount" lens setup besides my telescoping gear.

IMGP2164a.jpg


IMGP2246a.jpg


IMGP2316a.jpg


IMGP2401a.jpg


All taken with FD 400mm f/4.5 with 2x and 1.5x. Not enough maximum focusing distance without the tcons. The fd to nikon and nikon to pk combo adds ard 20mm, and the K mount is like 5 mm off the FD mount.

Comparison on manual focusing with the G1
G1 EVF wins hands down. My casualty rate today was horrendous. LV helped, but I would prefer an accessory EVF on the hot shoe if possible.

ISO performance
About a stop better. ISO 400 came out relatively clean after being pushed for about a stop. Trying doing that with the G1. However, both needs a lot of work iso 640 and beyond..............

Oh ya the comments are for hand holding the setup. I tend to use higher speeds / ISO to compensate against the lack of stability.......
 

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My adapter finally came. Here's my longest "K-mount" lens setup besides my telescoping gear.

All taken with FD 400mm f/4.5 with 2x and 1.5x. Not enough maximum focusing distance without the tcons. The fd to nikon and nikon to pk combo adds ard 20mm, and the K mount is like 5 mm off the FD mount.

Comparison on manual focusing with the G1
G1 EVF wins hands down. My casualty rate today was horrendous. LV helped, but I would prefer an accessory EVF on the hot shoe if possible.

ISO performance
About a stop better. ISO 400 came out relatively clean after being pushed for about a stop. Trying doing that with the G1. However, both needs a lot of work iso 640 and beyond..............

Oh ya the comments are for hand holding the setup. I tend to use higher speeds / ISO to compensate against the lack of stability.......

Very Interesting :think:
Any pic of your setup?
So its a Canon FD 400/4.5 mounted to a Nikon -> Pentax converter?
MF?
What about the tele-converter (which one)?

Very nice and close shots. :thumbsup:
So effectively the min focus distance of 4m is enlarged x1.4/x2. I'm thinking of getting something like this as well, but I'm quite afraid of the loss of brightness and picture quality due to the teleconverter.
 

Very Interesting :think:
Any pic of your setup?
So its a Canon FD 400/4.5 mounted to a Nikon -> Pentax converter?
MF?
What about the tele-converter (which one)?

Very nice and close shots. :thumbsup:
So effectively the min focus distance of 4m is enlarged x1.4/x2. I'm thinking of getting something like this as well, but I'm quite afraid of the loss of brightness and picture quality due to the teleconverter.

No pics at the moment of the setup. Its like 2 10mm extension tubes between lens and body. I got a fd to nikon adapter to mate with a nikon to pk adapter, all without corrective glass. Cant find a direct fd to pk converter which will make the extension effect between them a lot shorter. All MF but the good thing is the fd adapter has a preset ring which allows u to switch between stop down and wide open.

Currrently, the naked lens can only focus ard max of few metres. With the 1.5x, it hits 15+m and with the 2x, it reaches ard 25-30m, Juz nice for most of my shooting. I find beyond 20m, the setup gets very hard to focus and sharpness is pretty poor unless the light is very contrasty. The lens by itself is very sharp, tested on my G1. But there is no antishake in the G1 and the continuous fire of the K7 allows me to burst sequences of 3+ shots to get 1 good shot, provide the focus is spot on. Unfortunately, juz discovered HSS does not work for manual lens.........:angry:;(

here's an eg, last shot of sequence of 3, iso 800 pulled 1/3 of a stop back.
IMGP2634a.jpg
 

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