tomcat
Senior Member
Get a E-P1 or E-P2 body loh
Panasonic Lumix GF1
- Thread starter Nature88
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Get a E-P1 or E-P2 body loh
we are talking pancake right? 20 mm at F1.7 do you still need IS ? just increse ISO if speed still not enough. And if it is F1.7 and high ISO and still speed not enough then it is really quite dark already, better not take photo or just use tripod
Nature88
Member
Sorry but a little off topic. Sometimes it is really not enough for prime lens. Because need to see what is that person shooting style in general. Like me I shoot dusk and dawn with CP filter on hence f1.7 I think will be pretty slow in shutter speed. Thats why Canon 7 RF have f0.95 50mm. :bsmilie: But that lens only produced in the 70's I think, cant rmb exactly when. Fastest lens back then, now, extinct.
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IS is a relatively new technology,I believe there wasn't any IS lenses in the film days until the begining of digital did IS lenses start popping up,compatible with the film cameras,one example is Canon and their EF lenses
Synergyworld
Senior Member
LOL :thumbsup:
IS can only help camera shake, not movement of the subject.
And at 20mm (40mm FF), it's quite easy to shoot without IS and get 1/20s....if anything lesser than 1/20 even at ISO1600 and F1.7, then it's way too dark...better use flash...
You can't expect the camera and lenses to work like night vision goggles right...
And at 20mm (40mm FF), it's quite easy to shoot without IS and get 1/20s....if anything lesser than 1/20 even at ISO1600 and F1.7, then it's way too dark...better use flash...
You can't expect the camera and lenses to work like night vision goggles right...
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microcosm
Senior Member
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
AxeLa
Senior Member
Bellaraphon
New Member
Synergyworld
Senior Member
Anyone using Metz mecablitz 36 AF-4 digital on GF1?
http://www.metz.de/en/photo-electro...litz-36-af-4-digital/product-information.html
http://www.metz.de/en/photo-electro...litz-36-af-4-digital/product-information.html
With the EP1 and 17 mm f2.8, I am routinely shooting at 1/10, f2.8 and ISO 1600. This is P settings by the camera. I literally just point, hold steady as far as I can with one hand, and shoot. I think I get quite a lot of keepers.
yes, all the panny cameras share the same cable
raychan
New Member
Bros,
Just wondering if the lenses for the GF1, ie 20mm, 14-45, 14-140, etc are all made by Leica or are they made by Panasonic itself?
It not, why is Panasonic asking so much $$$$ just for a 20mm F1.7? So far, the only lens that has the Leica name on it is the 45mm Macro. For $1400-$1500 for the 7-14mm, I could have used the money to pay for a 2nd hand Nikkor 17-55mm F2.8.
Oh, does anyone have an idea how much does the HDMI cable costs?
Just wondering if the lenses for the GF1, ie 20mm, 14-45, 14-140, etc are all made by Leica or are they made by Panasonic itself?
It not, why is Panasonic asking so much $$$$ just for a 20mm F1.7? So far, the only lens that has the Leica name on it is the 45mm Macro. For $1400-$1500 for the 7-14mm, I could have used the money to pay for a 2nd hand Nikkor 17-55mm F2.8.
Oh, does anyone have an idea how much does the HDMI cable costs?
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Mad Armour
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AFAIK, the 20mm, 14-45 and 14-140 is by Panasonic themselves. The 45mm macro has Leica input, hence the Leica name there but review of the lens has been not so good.
As for pricing wise, Pana has always price themselves a bit on the high side. Value for money or not depends on you. So far, the above 3 lenses has been proven to be good performers.
Agreed the 7-14mm is ex on it's own but compared to the Oly 7-14mm, it's not so bad. How can you compare it with a Nikkor 17-55mm? And how to compare new against 2nd hand? Must compare apple with apple mah. The Nikkor is 25.5-82.5mm FOV in 35mm terms while the Pana is 14-28mm. There is quite a lot of difference.
HDMI cable costs from tens to hundreds. You do not have to use Pana HDMI.
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