Panasonic GH3


eleveninth said:
how is it more difficult
Click to expand...
Ok let me try to explain in words. Hope you can understand my problem & give some tips.

I saw many awesome videos clips done by those professionals, they have blurry shallow depth of effect at the background.

I am wearing specs so I do not use the EVF. I used the LCD screen.

For stills, usually when I point at something, everything is in focus when you look at the LCD screen. Only when I half-press the button, will I be able to see the blurry effect & if I am satisfied with it, I do a full-press & the still picture is obtained with reasonably good shallow depth of blurry effect.

However, in video, there is no half-press ! At the same settings, the whole LCD screen is in focus !

How do I record the movie with a half-press ?

I hope I did explain my problem well enuf for you guys to offer me some tips & guidance !

Thanks again

cheers
 

Hey Ryan, I think you need to read up more on photography and videography techniques. As for your camera, are you filming in Manual mode for movie? I own a GH3, if you're not on M mode, then you're on auto mode (If you are in any other modes beside M, the camera is auto for movie recording). And keep your aperture at f2.8 and stick to it. If under the bright sun, pick up a variable ND filter. However, it's not easy obtaining a shallow depth of field in low light on this camera considering the sensor size. If you're really into shallow DOF, try picking up a Voigtlander. Otherwise, the 35-100mm f2.8 is pretty good too.

Btw, bokeh is overrated. Oscar winning film "Hurt Locker" was filmed with a super 16 camera. Much much smaller than a m43. If you really want all the bokeh and stuff, go pick up a full frame camera. xD

Cheers!
 

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Hey ishou80, I believe I was the one who sold you the GH3. How are you enjoying it? :)

Well, on my other GH3s, I'm using a 12-35mm f2.8 and a 35-100mm f2.8. But like I mentioned to you before, any footage with more than iso 800 is gonna get really noisy. Unless you're going for a footage that's really artsy or don't mind doing more post.

I'd highly recommend the Voigtlander 17.5mm f.95 for videography though. It's clickless aperture plus 25mm is a tad harder if you're going handheld. Maybe you can try Panny's own 25mm too.

I'm waiting for the 42.5mm f1.2, that's gonna be exciting. And it's with IS!
 

Joshua Ang said:
Hey Ryan, I think you need to read up more on photography and videography techniques. As for your camera, are you filming in Manual mode for movie? I own a GH3, if you're not on M mode, then you're on auto mode (If you are in any other modes beside M, the camera is auto for movie recording).
Click to expand...
Thanks Joshua, you are correct ! I forget to switch the camera to M. Really good tips !

And keep your aperture at f2.8 and stick to it. If under the bright sun, pick up a variable ND filter. However, it's not easy obtaining a shallow depth of field in low light on this camera considering the sensor size. If you're really into shallow DOF, try picking up a Voigtlander. Otherwise, the 35-100mm f2.8 is pretty good too.
Click to expand...
I have a variable ND filter. The Voigtlander lens is too expensive. I also have the 35-100m f2.8 and I may be considering to get the 25mm f1.4.

Btw, bokeh is overrated. Oscar winning film "Hurt Locker" was filmed with a super 16 camera. Much much smaller than a m43. If you really want all the bokeh and stuff, go pick up a full frame camera. xD
Click to expand...

Don't quite get you. First you say that Oscar can get bokeh using a super 16 camera which has a much smaller sensor size than m4/3. Then you said get full frame if want to do bokeh ?

Anyway, I don't want to go full-frame bcos the lens are way to heavy !

Thanks
 

Cheers Ryan!

Personally, I don't think the 25mm f1.4 is a lens worth investing in. Especially if you're into video and already have the 12-35 and 35-100 (They are possibly the best lenses you can have for m43. Bokeh isn't all that nice from it either, if that's what you're looking for. But don't let my words affect your decision. It's just an independent opinion.

What I'm saying is, you don't need super creamy bokeh and blurred out backgrounds to make your photos nice! Don't let the internet brainwash you into thinking that way. Hurt Locker didn't have much bokeh either. But it was the content and how it was filmed that got it it's Oscar :)

1 problem about the Gh3 is moire and aliasing during video mode, seems to appear fairly frequently. But I don't think you'll experience much of that (yet). There are bigger issues than that. Lol.
 

if u really want cheap and good. hunt for old nikkor lenses.
 

Sorry to interject.

I just saw the mentioned of old nikkor lenses.

I am using them (on my D800). Yes, there are cheap and good and allows you to adjust focus.
 

Bamboopictures said:
You can't just stop there, tell us!
Click to expand...
Let me hazzard a guess.
Camera can't stop recording and hangs.
The last shot was important so you can't take out the battery.
Only remedy is let the battery drain completely or the card to fill up which ever happens first.
And unless you have another camera, everyone has to wait for the battery to die.
The above scenario is totally hypothetical of course.
 

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Bamboopictures said:
must have essentials for GH3 IMHO:
Beachtek MCC2 (adds 3 hotshoe,volume control and additional mic inputs!)
Tiffen Variable ND (lets you shoot always at 1/50)
Xume magnetic filter holder (buy this or you will never bother with the ND!)
Click to expand...

Some questions if I'm shoot at 60fps do I still set it @ 1/50?

Where to find the magnetic filter holder??
 

Joshua Ang said:
Hey ishou80, I believe I was the one who sold you the GH3. How are you enjoying it? :)

Well, on my other GH3s, I'm using a 12-35mm f2.8 and a 35-100mm f2.8. But like I mentioned to you before, any footage with more than iso 800 is gonna get really noisy. Unless you're going for a footage that's really artsy or don't mind doing more post.

I'd highly recommend the Voigtlander 17.5mm f.95 for videography though. It's clickless aperture plus 25mm is a tad harder if you're going handheld. Maybe you can try Panny's own 25mm too.

I'm waiting for the 42.5mm f1.2, that's gonna be exciting. And it's with IS!
Click to expand...

Yeah correct!! I'm so noob with this camera now hahaha

At the moment I'm shooting more of day time and maybe I should try do some test shoot with high iso to see how bad it will be

Those lenses u mentioned are kinda over my budget for the moment hahaha but hopefully I'll be able to up my collection soon~ Any recommendation for cheaper lens? :P
 

No. 1/60 for 60FPS.Xume is selling at bhphotovideo.com
 

Deunamist said:
Bamboo, thought it should be 1/120?
Click to expand...

1/60 is fine for true 60p progressive. But use 1/120 if the progressive is extrapolated from 60i.
But I'm quite sure GH3 is true progressive.
The convention of doubling the frame rate for arriving at the optimal shutter speed started in an era when manufacturers like Canon were claiming their XHA1 and HV20 was shooting progressive 30F, 24F (notice not i and not p )In actual fact, the progressive image was derived from merging fields through in camera image processing. It was not until HV40 that true progressive capture was offered. Other manufacturers were even less specific about how they derived progressive images, simply labeling their cameras as 24p capable. Even more audacious was Sony's progressive label on their PD150/151/152. Progressive but for stills only!
That said, the effect of shooting at 1/25 on a PD was quite pleasing. That was despite the fact that the resolution was in effect halved as the fields were repeated. The image was softer.There was also a very very subtle motion blur. (horrible for pans but great for steady shots). Overall it looked progressive in a lo-fi way and in some ways more film-like as it does not have the oversharpening of video.
So, is it ok to shoot 1/25 for 25p?
For GH2/3, absolutely yes in lowlight. But I think, for normal situation without ND, highlights will be clipped even at ISO120.
Conversely is it ok to shoot at higher than 1/50, 1/100 or even higher when you don't have an ND?
What I discovered is very subtle color banding under artificial lighting. (Almost imperceptible on playback but obvious when scrubbing)
Sunlight, is 100% fine.
As for motion effects, it only looks wierd when there are fast moving objects (eg spinning ceiling fan, bouncing ball) as the high shutter speed tend to freeze motion.
Fan blades looks stationary. A fast ball becomes five stationary balls.
 

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Bamboopictures said:
1/60 is fine for true 60p progressive. But use 1/120 if the progressive is extrapolated from 60i.
But I'm quite sure GH3 is true progressive.
The convention of doubling the frame rate for arriving at the optimal shutter speed started in an era when manufacturers like Canon were claiming their XHA1 and HV20 was shooting progressive 30F, 24F (notice not i and not p )....
Click to expand...

So if I record at 50p, I still select the shutter speed at 1/50 ? And not 1/100 ?

Thanks
 

While I love these new fast lenses, intercutting footage between MF lenses and native M43 can be tricky. The difference in sharpness is quite stark!
The new M43lenses actually makes old MF nikon lenses look decidedly soft. Best to stick to one set of lenses for the same scene.
 

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