So, is it better to have the sensor made by Sony or Panasonic themself ?
Panasonic GH3
- Thread starter garyyyyt
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Bamboopictures
Senior Member
A fast prime. Shooting food is a usually at a distance shorter than the minimum focusing distance of zooms.
Thanks Bamboo,
fast primes means ? will the 25mm/f1.4 or 20mm/f1.8 do ? which of this would be better ?
currently i tried on my 12-35mm/f2.8, it can take a very nice blurring effect with excellent shallow depth of field.
But the problem is that, to achieve this effect, I have to place the lens very very very near to the food (like almost touching the food).
2nd problem is, sometimes the blurring is excellent but sometimes the blurring does not appear !! (Not sure why, am quite sure the aperture already set to the 2.8).
Any recommendations ?
Thanks
Bamboopictures
Senior Member
For shallow DOF get as near to the subject as possible
Get the subject as far away from the background as possible.
Use the longest focal length possible
Open your aperture as wide as possible.
Those are the only variables.
If you use 12mm the dof is quite long. If you zoom to 35mm your subject distance must increase with the min focusing distance. Use a longer prime. 45mm
Get the subject as far away from the background as possible.
Use the longest focal length possible
Open your aperture as wide as possible.
Those are the only variables.
If you use 12mm the dof is quite long. If you zoom to 35mm your subject distance must increase with the min focusing distance. Use a longer prime. 45mm
Yes, I understand that ... my aperture already set to 2.8, the widest possible liao
what u mean by quite long ?
Subject distance means distance from the subject to the camera ?
U mean this lens:
http://panasonic.net/avc/lumix/systemcamera/gms/lens/dg_macro_45.html
But the aperture of this lens is only f2.8.
Shouldn't my 35-100 f2.8 lens can also be set at 45mm f2.8 ? What the difference ?
Thanks
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Bamboopictures
Senior Member
For DOF values for specific focal length and subject distance, you can use a DOF calculator.
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
Assuming you are at 12mm of your zoom. And the subject is only 25cm away (this is the minimum focusing distance for the 12-35mm zoom)
and you are at f2.8, you are maxed out in terms of shallow DOF. That is, for your lens at 12mm, you can't get any shallower DOF. The calculator will tell you anything beyond 1.89m behind the subject will be out of focus. But 1.89m is rather long for a tabletop setup.
Yes, the subject distance = distance from lens to subject. The minimum focusing distance will increase when you zoom in. Which means you must stand further away in order to keep your subject in focus. Which means: while there is a shortening of DOF with a longer focal length, that effect is limited by you having to increase subject distance to keep the subject in focus.
A stop-gap method to reduce minimum focusing distance, is to use a close-up filter. This is usually a cheap piece of magnifying glass you can screw infront of your lens. But beware of blurred edge and chromatic aberrations. Such optics also severely restrict the workable distance of your lens.
You should definitely try the 35-100 f2.8. Based on the minimum focusing distance of 85cm (at focal length of 35mm) , anything 145cm behind the subject will be completely blur.
I'm recommending prime lenses such as Olympus 45mm 1.8 because they have shorter minimum focus distance (50cm for the Mzuiko 45mm) This allows you to get closer and shorten the DOF.
Another good method to achieve shallower DOF is to use a full frame lens with a speed booster. This allows you to double the focal length while maintaining almost the same field of view.
Eg, instead of using a 45mm lens, you can now use a full frame 90mm lens and subject will look almost the same size. The DOF calculator will tell you how razor thin the DOF is on a 90mm lens.
But before you rush out and buy a brand new set of primes, determine first what focal length is suitable for your subject. Do you like natural looking proportions or would you like your food to be a little exaggerated. It's a personal preference.
Also the size of your foodstuff matters. If you are shooting sesame seeds, using a macro tube will give you microns of DOF.
Finally, shallow DOF is only one of many ways to create blurs. You can experiment with lens baby or soft filters or even lenswhacking (shooting with the lens detached but cupped in your hands over the sensor.) or a good old smear of vaseline on the UV or just fogging the lens with your breathe!
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
Assuming you are at 12mm of your zoom. And the subject is only 25cm away (this is the minimum focusing distance for the 12-35mm zoom)
and you are at f2.8, you are maxed out in terms of shallow DOF. That is, for your lens at 12mm, you can't get any shallower DOF. The calculator will tell you anything beyond 1.89m behind the subject will be out of focus. But 1.89m is rather long for a tabletop setup.
Yes, the subject distance = distance from lens to subject. The minimum focusing distance will increase when you zoom in. Which means you must stand further away in order to keep your subject in focus. Which means: while there is a shortening of DOF with a longer focal length, that effect is limited by you having to increase subject distance to keep the subject in focus.
A stop-gap method to reduce minimum focusing distance, is to use a close-up filter. This is usually a cheap piece of magnifying glass you can screw infront of your lens. But beware of blurred edge and chromatic aberrations. Such optics also severely restrict the workable distance of your lens.
You should definitely try the 35-100 f2.8. Based on the minimum focusing distance of 85cm (at focal length of 35mm) , anything 145cm behind the subject will be completely blur.
I'm recommending prime lenses such as Olympus 45mm 1.8 because they have shorter minimum focus distance (50cm for the Mzuiko 45mm) This allows you to get closer and shorten the DOF.
Another good method to achieve shallower DOF is to use a full frame lens with a speed booster. This allows you to double the focal length while maintaining almost the same field of view.
Eg, instead of using a 45mm lens, you can now use a full frame 90mm lens and subject will look almost the same size. The DOF calculator will tell you how razor thin the DOF is on a 90mm lens.
But before you rush out and buy a brand new set of primes, determine first what focal length is suitable for your subject. Do you like natural looking proportions or would you like your food to be a little exaggerated. It's a personal preference.
Also the size of your foodstuff matters. If you are shooting sesame seeds, using a macro tube will give you microns of DOF.
Finally, shallow DOF is only one of many ways to create blurs. You can experiment with lens baby or soft filters or even lenswhacking (shooting with the lens detached but cupped in your hands over the sensor.) or a good old smear of vaseline on the UV or just fogging the lens with your breathe!
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Bamboopictures
Senior Member
Ryan, you're right. Its 1.89cm not 1.89m.
Min focusing distance as listed by manufacturer.
http://panasonic.net/avc/lumix/systemcamera/gms/lens/g_x_vario_12_35.html
The value of 1.45cm was obtained with focal length 45mm at 85cm subject distance.
Sorry for the error.
Min focusing distance as listed by manufacturer.
http://panasonic.net/avc/lumix/systemcamera/gms/lens/g_x_vario_12_35.html
The value of 1.45cm was obtained with focal length 45mm at 85cm subject distance.
Sorry for the error.
Thanks Bamboo
Just now, when I tried to take a pic, I press the button half down.
Usually, there will be a green square, then I press further and the picture is snapped.
But just now, a red square appeared instead & I cannot press down further ? What gives ?
Is it because I was too near, too near than the minimum focus distance ?
Thanks
Just now, when I tried to take a pic, I press the button half down.
Usually, there will be a green square, then I press further and the picture is snapped.
But just now, a red square appeared instead & I cannot press down further ? What gives ?
Is it because I was too near, too near than the minimum focus distance ?
Thanks
Red means the cameras can't lock on the focus ...
Usually, it means too near OR the subject is too dark ...
In your case, too near ...
If you use manual focusing, sometimes can go another 0.2-0.4cm nearer and still keep in focus but u adjust the focus manually ...
Thanks XsenseX.
The thing that drives me up the wall is this.
I have taken one food photo using the 12-35/f2.8 lens, set at 12mm & f2.8. I remember I went quite near the food and the picture is exactly what i wanted, lots of blurring of background, excellent !!
But I have not been able to repeat this since that shot ... when I go too near, I got the red box. If I go too far, there is no blurring. In fact, it is difficult to get this blurring effect of background now !!
Any tips ?
Thanks
Bamboopictures
Senior Member
For cheap solutions, you can attach a macro tube or use a close-up filter. All less than $30.
Paiseh, what is a macro tube and what is a close-up filter ?
But the question still remains, how come I cannot achieve taking that photo again ?
Thanks
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Simple. Push your background further back.
U can always post pics here for the clubsnappers to see and comment. Cheers
Bamboopictures
Senior Member
I'm guessing that the photo you referred to has a background that is very far away.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?hl=en-GB&gl=SG&v=6SwoSB2q0MI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6uGTguJZtvE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVYtgJi2rLc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?hl=en-GB&gl=SG&v=6SwoSB2q0MI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6uGTguJZtvE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVYtgJi2rLc
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Thanks Bamboo,
I think I may have given you the wrong impression.
I do not want to go so near to the subject. I am also not into macro photography (not ye ... at least. Hahaha).
But I went near to the subject bcos I wanted to get a blurring effect of the background. If I do not go near, everything is on focus. (this is my new experience learned from with playing with the camera with 12-35mm lens)
My previous successful experience was with using the 12-35 lens (at 12mm), i went close to the subject and the background was blur. Very good. I also play around with it and discover that if my camera were to be further away, the background will be in focus too (thus no blurring of background).
Since then, I have been trying to re-achieve this but without much success. I even went so close (until beyond the "minimum focus distance") and still there was no blurring effect !!
Any ideas why ?
Maybe I shall try the tips by XsenseX to push the background further away. Maybe both the subject and the background are too near ?
Thanks
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Bamboopictures
Senior Member
Food photography is often done with macro lenses.
http://photo.stackexchange.com/ques...ns-simulate-a-macro-lens-for-food-photography
I sometimes shoot portrait in macro mode on my canon FD35-105 f3.5, so it's not just for very tiny objects.
Short of buying an actual macro lens, a low powered filter is the easiest solution.
If f2.8 isn't working for you, maybe Noktors are more your game.
http://photo.stackexchange.com/ques...ns-simulate-a-macro-lens-for-food-photography
I sometimes shoot portrait in macro mode on my canon FD35-105 f3.5, so it's not just for very tiny objects.
Short of buying an actual macro lens, a low powered filter is the easiest solution.
If f2.8 isn't working for you, maybe Noktors are more your game.
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Thanks Bamboo,
1. FYI, I just tried XsenseX suggestion (of moving the background further away) a while ago and am pleased to inform you that that piece of advise is magical :bsmilie: It works like a charm. Now I am able to repeat it. I can safely say now I can get the background blur 99% of the time. Thanks XsenseX, I owe you one lunch/dinner ...
2. If macro lens is the way to go, then I should be purchasing this lens, correct ? (it is the only m4/3 macro lens by Panasonic):
http://panasonic.net/avc/lumix/systemcamera/gms/lens/dg_macro_45.html
I was thinking of getting the 25mm f1.4 lens for taking the food. Now this macro lens is better suited ? Can it get better blurring effect of the background ? is this macro lens very expensive ?
3. Now that I have solved the blurring effect of the background for taking food, I tried to take outdoor picture. I took a picture with my son standing in front and focussing on him but now it is rather difficult to get the background (which is a building/ shophouse) to be out of focus ? My son is already quite far away from the building (background) and my son is quite near the camera. Any tips on this ?
Thanks
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Bamboopictures
Senior Member
Macro lens are expensive. I think there is only one in the lumix line up. You can refer to my earlier posts in this thread regarding cheap alternatives to macro lenses.Thanks Bamboo,
1. FYI, I just tried XsenseX suggestion (of moving the background further away) a while ago and am pleased to inform you that that piece of advise is magical :bsmilie: It works like a charm. Now I am able to repeat it. I can safely say now I can get the background blur 99% of the time. Thanks XsenseX, I owe you one lunch/dinner ...
2. If macro lens is the way to go, then I should be purchasing this lens, correct ? (it is the only m4/3 macro lens by Panasonic):
http://panasonic.net/avc/lumix/systemcamera/gms/lens/dg_macro_45.html
I was thinking of getting the 25mm f1.4 lens for taking the food. Now this macro lens is better suited ? Can it get better blurring effect of the background ? is this macro lens very expensive ?
3. Now that I have solved the blurring effect of the background for taking food, I tried to take outdoor picture. I took a picture with my son standing in front and focussing on him but now it is rather difficult to get the background (which is a building/ shophouse) to be out of focus ? My son is already quite far away from the building (background) and my son is quite near the camera. Any tips on this ?
Thanks
Personally, I like to use a lensbaby when I shoot close up of products because it gives better control of the exact spot I want to be in focus, regardless of distance.
For portraiture, you will definitely get a very blurred background when you use the long end of your 35-100mm, especially at f2.8
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