So, is it better to have the sensor made by Sony or Panasonic themself ?GH3 sensor is made by Sony, GH2 by panasonic.
So, is it better to have the sensor made by Sony or Panasonic themself ?GH3 sensor is made by Sony, GH2 by panasonic.
A fast prime. Shooting food is a usually at a distance shorter than the minimum focusing distance of zooms.
Yes, I understand that ... my aperture already set to 2.8, the widest possible liaoFor shallow DOF get as near to the subject as possible
Get the subject as far away from the background as possible.
Use the longest focal length possible
Open your aperture as wide as possible.
Those are the only variables.
what u mean by quite long ?If you use 12mm the dof is quite long.
Subject distance means distance from the subject to the camera ?If you zoom to 35mm your subject distance must increase with the min focusing distance.
U mean this lens:Use a longer prime. 45mm
For DOF values for specific focal length and subject distance, you can use a DOF calculator.
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
Thanks for this Table. I tried it but need some clarification from you. Thanks
Assuming you are at 12mm of your zoom. And the subject is only 25cm away (this is the minimum focusing distance for the 12-35mm zoom)
and you are at f2.8, you are maxed out in terms of shallow DOF. That is, for your lens at 12mm, you can't get any shallower DOF. The calculator will tell you anything beyond 1.89m behind the subject will be out of focus. But 1.89m is rather long for a tabletop setup.
Q1. How do you know that the minimum focusing distance for the 12-35 lens is 25cm ?
Q2. From the table, mine shows 1.89 cm and not 1.89m leh.
It says: In front of subject = 1.64 cm (46%)
Behind subject = 1.89 cm (54%)
Q3. How do you know that the minimum focusing distance for the 35-100 lens is 85cm at 35mm ?You should definitely try the 35-100 f2.8. Based on the minimum focusing distance of 85cm (at focal length of 35mm) , anything 145cm behind the subject will be completely blur.
Q4. I key in the figure but do not see any 145cm. What I got are:
It says: In front of subject = 0.38 cm (49%)
Behind subject = 0.39 cm (51%)
How did you derive the 145 cm ?
Thanks
Thanks Bamboo
Just now, when I tried to take a pic, I press the button half down.
Usually, there will be a green square, then I press further and the picture is snapped.
But just now, a red square appeared instead & I cannot press down further ? What gives ?
Is it because I was too near, too near than the minimum focus distance ?
Thanks
Red means the cameras can't lock on the focus ...
Usually, it means too near OR the subject is too dark ...
In your case, too near ...
If you use manual focusing, sometimes can go another 0.2-0.4cm nearer and still keep in focus but u adjust the focus manually ...
For cheap solutions, you can attach a macro tube or use a close-up filter. All less than $30.
Thanks XsenseX.
The thing that drives me up the wall is this.
I have taken one food photo using the 12-35/f2.8 lens, set at 12mm & f2.8. I remember I went quite near the food and the picture is exactly what i wanted, lots of blurring of background, excellent !!
But I have not been able to repeat this since that shot ... when I go too near, I got the red box. If I go too far, there is no blurring. In fact, it is difficult to get this blurring effect of background now !!
Any tips ?
Thanks
I'm guessing that the photo you referred to has a background that is very far away.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?hl=en-GB&gl=SG&v=6SwoSB2q0MI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6uGTguJZtvE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVYtgJi2rLc
Food photography is often done with macro lenses.
http://photo.stackexchange.com/ques...ns-simulate-a-macro-lens-for-food-photography
I sometimes shoot portrait in macro mode on my canon FD35-105 f3.5, so it's not just for very tiny objects.
Short of buying an actual macro lens, a low powered filter is the easiest solution.
If f2.8 isn't working for you, maybe Noktors are more your game.
Macro lens are expensive. I think there is only one in the lumix line up. You can refer to my earlier posts in this thread regarding cheap alternatives to macro lenses.Thanks Bamboo,
1. FYI, I just tried XsenseX suggestion (of moving the background further away) a while ago and am pleased to inform you that that piece of advise is magical :bsmilie: It works like a charm. Now I am able to repeat it. I can safely say now I can get the background blur 99% of the time. Thanks XsenseX, I owe you one lunch/dinner ...![]()
2. If macro lens is the way to go, then I should be purchasing this lens, correct ? (it is the only m4/3 macro lens by Panasonic):
http://panasonic.net/avc/lumix/systemcamera/gms/lens/dg_macro_45.html
I was thinking of getting the 25mm f1.4 lens for taking the food. Now this macro lens is better suited ? Can it get better blurring effect of the background ? is this macro lens very expensive ?
3. Now that I have solved the blurring effect of the background for taking food, I tried to take outdoor picture. I took a picture with my son standing in front and focussing on him but now it is rather difficult to get the background (which is a building/ shophouse) to be out of focus ? My son is already quite far away from the building (background) and my son is quite near the camera. Any tips on this ?
Thanks