How to shoot banquet?

[MDZ2]

ok guys,i've tried shooting again yesterday.

used aperture priorityf5.6 to f8, this time, with CLEAR lightsphereII.(dome attached)
flash was set to TTL, d200 was set to flash WB.(it's definitely warmer on the skin tones compared to auto)
however, i'm still getting underexposure.

when shooting landscape format,i tilt the sb800 vertically upwards.i also tried with tilting it 60degrees.

i will NOT get underex if i dial in +2/3 ot +1 on the flash.
DUH! this flash photography is getting on my nerves.
funny thingee is i've never gotten such probs with my f5.argh!

read the thing on flipit.is it better than LSII?or is it PLBV:cry: :embrass: :cry:

Jeanie, why don't you post a picture? At least we can get a clearer picture (no pun intended)
In the mean time, how far was your subject? and camera and flash setting ie iso,shutter speed flash aperture setting etc.
did the flash make a squeeking sound after each exposure or did the ready light blink? (indicating max flash used ie. subject too far away)

 

[jeanie]

let me go upload my pics first ya.

 

[jeanie]

btw, realised the sb800 fires about 3 preflashes.is there a way to turn that off?
:embrass:

i didnt realised untill i check the metadata, it shows 3 strobes detected.:dunno:
then when i fire again and look at the flash, it really does fire the preflashes.

is this phenomenon only when i set the flash to iTTL?
does it really affect the exposure much?

 

[ortega]

still talking about dinner shot?

Check your flash settings, is the red eye reduction thingy switched on?

 

[Cheesecake]

btw, realised the sb800 fires about 3 preflashes.is there a way to turn that off?
:embrass:

i didnt realised untill i check the metadata, it shows 3 strobes detected.:dunno:
then when i fire again and look at the flash, it really does fire the preflashes.

is this phenomenon only when i set the flash to iTTL?
does it really affect the exposure much?

tat's the ittl at work. if u're using TTL, i guess u can't turn this off.

din't really knw abt the 3pre-flashes till u mention it. and no, it doesn't affect the exposure. it's required for the ittl to work.

 

[ortega]

let me go upload my pics first ya.

from your tfcd? make the first impression count :thumbsup:

 

[jeanie]

ok, so no way to switch it off.
i'm not really sure if the it's the preflashes that sucks power away from the flash and hence my underexposure when using LS.but since you mention it's required for the iTTL, means the flash would have told the camera (after firing preflashes) that the appropriate amount of flash power has been generated.but yet still under?:dunno:

ortega?what tfcd?no tfcd lah.

my pics so sooo sehh i dunno to post or not.and i cant take deadpoet's kind of comments.later i cry.:cry: :bsmilie: :bsmilie: :bsmilie:

 

[Cactus jACK]

the iTTL will do the preflash to get a reading, but this preflash is almost indistingishable from the actual (i.e. you would not really notice that there was more than 1 flash). if you are seeing the preflashes, chances are it could be your red-eye reduction setting.

the iTTL preflash will of course use up more power than if it were not to be used. if batt life is a concern, you can just as easily use AA mode esp if you're bouncing the flash.

i think that that LFPJII is good for diffusing light for close shots (upto table shots), much beyond that, i think that you would have trouble with getting the light there... other flash setups and iso combinations might be more appropriate in those circumstances.

 

[Cheesecake]

ok, so no way to switch it off.
i'm not really sure if the it's the preflashes that sucks power away from the flash and hence my underexposure when using LS.but since you mention it's required for the iTTL, means the flash would have told the camera (after firing preflashes) that the appropriate amount of flash power has been generated.but yet still under?:dunno:

ortega?what tfcd?no tfcd lah.

my pics so sooo sehh i dunno to post or not.and i cant take deadpoet's kind of comments.later i cry.:cry: :bsmilie: :bsmilie: :bsmilie:

some critiques are good.
but the really good ones go beyond the obvious.

feeling is most important.

 

[jeanie]

the iTTL will do the preflash to get a reading, but this preflash is almost indistingishable from the actual (i.e. you would not really notice that there was more than 1 flash). if you are seeing the preflashes, chances are it could be your red-eye reduction setting.

the iTTL preflash will of course use up more power than if it were not to be used. if batt life is a concern, you can just as easily use AA mode esp if you're bouncing the flash.

i think that that LFPJII is good for diffusing light for close shots (upto table shots), much beyond that, i think that you would have trouble with getting the light there... other flash setups and iso combinations might be more appropriate in those circumstances.

thanks jack,
my camera is definitely not set to redeye reduction for sure.i am 101% sure as i do a thorough check b4 i fire.i even save my settings in one of the memory banks in the cam.
also, when i upload the pics, i will look at the metadata.

not sure about the rest who use d200 and sb800, but i definitely can see the preflashes.
no doubt it's fast and almost indistinguisable from the main flash.

my main concern is that when it fires the preflash, by the time it comes to the MAIN flash required to capture the shot, the flash power would have been decreased already.i didnt attach the 5th battery compartment.
sounds like a stupid question because i dont think nikon will design the flash in such a 'stupid' way.:bsmilie:

ya.i should use AA next time.my shots in iTTL really came out all underexposed.:cry:

 

[jeanie]

some critiques are good.
but the really good ones go beyond the obvious.

feeling is most important.

sorry, me beri sloooow one.dont really understand...:embrass:

 

[ortega]

ortega?what tfcd?no tfcd lah.

didn't DP do a tfcd for you?

 

[Cheesecake]

didn't DP do a tfcd for you?

:bsmilie: :bsmilie: :bsmilie: :bsmilie: :bsmilie:

 

[lsisaxon]

thanks jack,
my camera is definitely not set to redeye reduction for sure.i am 101% sure as i do a thorough check b4 i fire.i even save my settings in one of the memory banks in the cam.
also, when i upload the pics, i will look at the metadata.

not sure about the rest who use d200 and sb800, but i definitely can see the preflashes.
no doubt it's fast and almost indistinguisable from the main flash.

my main concern is that when it fires the preflash, by the time it comes to the MAIN flash required to capture the shot, the flash power would have been decreased already.i didnt attach the 5th battery compartment.
sounds like a stupid question because i dont think nikon will design the flash in such a 'stupid' way.:bsmilie:

ya.i should use AA next time.my shots in iTTL really came out all underexposed.:cry:

The preflash is a weak flash so it should not have drained the power too much for the main flash. One of my SB800 tend to underexpose with certain combination of lenses and the distance (usually <1m), the other one in exactly the same combination/condition is fine. :dunno:

 

[jeanie]

dead poet tfcd for me?

i think he see me already he will regret even turning up.:bsmilie: :bsmilie:

you tfcd for me in japan lah!MTLMTL!:bsmilie:

 

[ortega]

dead poet tfcd for me?

i think he see me already he will regret even turning up.:bsmilie: :bsmilie:

you tfcd for me in japan lah!MTLMTL!:bsmilie:

sure, photography service - FOC
all costs covered by you?

 

[granni]

This thread is very informative... was about to ask some ques along this line as my flash photog has a long way to go...if ever theres a destination

I go shoot something then ....

 

[Scaglietti]

You need to go back to the basics of flash photography.

When you are having severely underexposed photos, chances are your flash is not reaching your subject and not the TTL problem. Every flash has a guide number. You got to take into various factors that will affect the flash strength and exposure.

Some of the factors you have to consider when you do flash photography are:
1. ISO
2. f-stop & shutter speed
3. distance of your subject and guide number
4. Using of diffusors, e.g. omnibounce and lightsphere (this will greatly reduce the flash strength and effective distance)
5. Bouncing of flash off a surface (ceiling or wall, etc) (this will also reduce the flash strength and effective distance)

The good thing is that there is a distance chart on displayed on the LCD of your SB-800 that take into consideration of the f-stop, focal length and ISO. After taking into consideration of diffusion and bouncing, you can roughly assess whether the flash strength is sufficient. If not, you might have to up the ISO or move closer to the subject.

Sometimes we are overwhelmed by all this technological stuff and we forget about the basics.

 

[jeanie]

if i set my camera to f5.6 and 1/60(MANUAL)

is the flash doing ALL the work in controlling the lighting for the subjects?
no matter what kind of situations?

 

[Scaglietti]

if i set my camera to f5.6 and 1/60(MANUAL)

is the flash doing ALL the work in controlling the lighting for the subjects?
no matter what kind of situations?

In TTL mode, kind of yes... provided the subjects are within the range of the flash. It is the flash using through-the-lens (TTL) information to determine the flash output.

Things like lightsphere, diffusor, bouncing the flash off ceilings or walls will reduce the range of the flash.