How to shoot banquet?


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This thread is very informative... was about to ask some ques along this line as my flash photog has a long way to go...if ever theres a destination :D

I go shoot something then ....

TS, do you mind if he post something on flash photography?
 

more questions.

1)assuming 1/60 and f5.6 manual.3Dmatrix metering.using LS on cam in landscape format.LS pointing up with DOME on.ceiling is beige in color about 4 meters high.flash set to iTTL.will my picture come out with a yellow beige cast because of the ceiling?if so, how do i overcome this for this particular scenario?also, will my subjects come out underexpose assuming if i do no flash EV+?

2)anyone tried pulling out the bounce card in your SB800, WITH the LS on?i figured maybe the bounce card will send light through the front half of the LS.will that be better for subject's facial lighting?

i havent tried these experiments.just thinking of it b4 i sleep.:sweat:
 

more questions.

1)assuming 1/60 and f5.6 manual.3Dmatrix metering.using LS on cam in landscape format.LS pointing up with DOME on.ceiling is beige in color about 4 meters high.flash set to iTTL.will my picture come out with a yellow beige cast because of the ceiling?if so, how do i overcome this for this particular scenario?also, will my subjects come out underexpose assuming if i do no flash EV+?

2)anyone tried pulling out the bounce card in your SB800, WITH the LS on?i figured maybe the bounce card will send light through the front half of the LS.will that be better for subject's facial lighting?

i havent tried these experiments.just thinking of it b4 i sleep.:sweat:


No LS, so cannot answer u.

As for 1st qn, already answered before in last few posts. Just that u dun think hard enough
1. shoot raw if scared
2. shoot custom grey card
3. Live with it and get to the nearest reading (which is what I do)

4. Sure underexpose as TTL is configured to your normal flash reading. So what do u think the result is
 

No LS, so cannot answer u.

As for 1st qn, already answered before in last few posts. Just that u dun think hard enough
1. shoot raw if scared
2. shoot custom grey card
3. Live with it and get to the nearest reading (which is what I do)

4. Sure underexpose as TTL is configured to your normal flash reading. So what do u think the result is

thanks for help.

i think hard.just that i'm dumb probably...
where can i get a grey card?heard of it but not used it.

how do i shoot a grey card?just point and shoot at it?then use the same readings?

your (4) normal flash reading means assuming the flash is firing DIRECTLY at the subjects?without any bounce, LS or flippit?rite?
 

more questions.

1)assuming 1/60 and f5.6 manual.3Dmatrix metering.using LS on cam in landscape format.LS pointing up with DOME on.ceiling is beige in color about 4 meters high.flash set to iTTL.will my picture come out with a yellow beige cast because of the ceiling?if so, how do i overcome this for this particular scenario?also, will my subjects come out underexpose assuming if i do no flash EV+?

2)anyone tried pulling out the bounce card in your SB800, WITH the LS on?i figured maybe the bounce card will send light through the front half of the LS.will that be better for subject's facial lighting?

i havent tried these experiments.just thinking of it b4 i sleep.:sweat:
#1, it may and it may not, when you are close to the subjects, means your subjects get more direct light, so will not have much color cast,
for the exposure part, review the monitor and decide, too close to the subjects or lot of black in frame may need to minus, too much white in frame may need to plus,
when you shoot on film, do you think that much? cos you shoot on neg, the printer will adjust the density and color for you, so you don't know you color temp and exposure are all over the place, on digital, you see is what you get.

#2, not much effects.
 

IMO, if you try using the LS and bouncing off a 4m ceiling. Most of the light will come from the diffused light from the lightsphere. The bounced light will be travelling at least 8m minusing whatever being absorbed by the ceiling.

Check the distance chart on your SB-800's LCD and see whether 8m is within range of the flash at the ISO and aperture setting. Go for a setting that allows you about 12 or 14m range to be safe. You probably have to up your ISO to do that.
 

thanks for help.

i think hard.just that i'm dumb probably...
where can i get a grey card?heard of it but not used it.

how do i shoot a grey card?just point and shoot at it?then use the same readings?

your (4) normal flash reading means assuming the flash is firing DIRECTLY at the subjects?without any bounce, LS or flippit?rite?

Actually, normal flash means all the equipment that comes with the flash including the bounce card.
 

more questions.

1)assuming 1/60 and f5.6 manual.3Dmatrix metering.using LS on cam in landscape format.LS pointing up with DOME on.ceiling is beige in color about 4 meters high.flash set to iTTL.will my picture come out with a yellow beige cast because of the ceiling?if so, how do i overcome this for this particular scenario?also, will my subjects come out underexpose assuming if i do no flash EV+?:


erm, i dun think so with regards to the beige color cast. in fact i think u worry too much abt all these minor points. u should really concentrate on getting the picture instead of worrying abt this that and all minor details.

1/60s is pretty fast and highly likely there won't be much color cast. concentrate on getting the right exposure, the right picture, everytime.

2)anyone tried pulling out the bounce card in your SB800, WITH the LS on?i figured maybe the bounce card will send light through the front half of the LS.will that be better for subject's facial lighting?

i havent tried these experiments.just thinking of it b4 i sleep.:sweat:

my LSPJII is modified every since i got one which is 1year back or more. instead of white card, i had aluminium foil pasted to the side of it, thus more light will be thrown forward instead of dispersing all round.

it is better for illuminating everything since the light is thrown forward and obviously, like i said before, LSPJII is the best, if u know how to use it. :bsmilie:

a pity most never really sit down and think about how to further improve and improvise...
 

erm, i dun think so with regards to the beige color cast. in fact i think u worry too much abt all these minor points. u should really concentrate on getting the picture instead of worrying abt this that and all minor details.

1/60s is pretty fast and highly likely there won't be much color cast. concentrate on getting the right exposure, the right picture, everytime.



my LSPJII is modified every since i got one which is 1year back or more. instead of white card, i had aluminium foil pasted to the side of it, thus more light will be thrown forward instead of dispersing all round.

it is better for illuminating everything since the light is thrown forward and obviously, like i said before, LSPJII is the best, if u know how to use it. :bsmilie:

a pity most never really sit down and think about how to further improve and improvise...


I agree with Cheese that u are worrying too much details. Since u are not paid, u can really afford to try.

I also improvise my flash by adding 1 big reflective card also on my SB800. Cheese, agree with u that SB800 really rox.
 

I agree with Cheese that u are worrying too much details. Since u are not paid, u can really afford to try.

I also improvise my flash by adding 1 big reflective card also on my SB800. Cheese, agree with u that SB800 really rox.

:bsmilie: u shud try CLS when u get another SB600 or 800 or the r1 set. :thumbsup:
 

don't lose too much sleep over it. i think you are overconcerned, overuse of features, (as a result)over complicating and under knowledge of basic photography(in particular, flash). keep it simple stu_ _ _ (KISS). (admittedly, i did not read every single posts in this thread)

more questions.

1)assuming 1/60 and f5.6 manual.3Dmatrix metering.using LS on cam in landscape format.LS pointing up with DOME on.ceiling is beige in color about 4 meters high.flash set to iTTL.will my picture come out with a yellow beige cast because of the ceiling?if so, how do i overcome this for this particular scenario?also, will my subjects come out underexpose assuming if i do no flash EV+?

2)anyone tried pulling out the bounce card in your SB800, WITH the LS on?i figured maybe the bounce card will send light through the front half of the LS.will that be better for subject's facial lighting?

i havent tried these experiments.just thinking of it b4 i sleep.:sweat:
 

wow, you will need one person just to hold it up.
Or can try this

this will be very cool, the couple will not have any problem to locate where is the photographer even it is a 120 tables banquet in Island Ballroom.
 

i tink wat settings to use and all are really situational...... its more impt to go out and shoot..... and then come back and look at it...thats the best way to learn aint it....

cheerios
 

thank you all.
honestly, i have never had so many ques shooting film.cos when i fire away, usually even my prints cannot make it, the printer can adjust(though minimal adjustments...)

i think so much because i'm a serious amateur, ever since i saved up and bought my d200.
dun wanna waste the features of such a good camera.

aluminium foil inside LS.wahhhhh.wonder what GF will say.hahah!but he abit gong hor...why do you need to spread light 360?i reckon the front 180 will be much much more important.:dunno:

going japan tonight.anyone wants any souveniers?i shoot some shinjuku babes for you all k?:bsmilie:
 

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