Home studio setup

[jeanie]

i'm worried the nearer i put the light to the dancers, the less space they have.and when they fly in the air, may kick the strobes or land on the light stands.:bsmilie:

piang eh...like that too risky

 

[catchlights]

oh shucks....means i really have to get faster strobes ah?

already spent so much on these strobes.:cry:

Hmmm.. for me, I will ask in bowens forum to find out, and email the Sarah Silver and ask her about the set up.

 

[jeanie]

Hmmm.. for me, I will ask in bowens forum to find out, and email the Sarah Silver and ask her about the set up.

ok done-ded.
eagerly waiting for their reply.

http://www.bowens.co.uk/cgi-bin/yab...ldisc;action=display;num=1177641773;start=0#0

 

[catchlights]

I'm interested to find out also

 

[jeanie]

I'm interested to find out also

you already freeze the boy in action.what's there to find out?:dunno:

btw, what lights are you using?

 

[Splutter]

Anyway jeanie did you try to see if you can sync at higher speeds? I remember last time Nikon's max sync speed isn't really a constrain like Canon's. Something different with the mechanism.

 

[vince123123]

I understand the D70 could do that, because they use an electronic shutter upwards of 1/500. The D100 and 200 can't apparently.

Anyway jeanie did you try to see if you can sync at higher speeds? I remember last time Nikon's max sync speed isn't really a constrain like Canon's. Something different with the mechanism.

 

[Splutter]

Then i think it's cheaper to get another D70 instead of faster strobes :bsmilie:

 

[jeanie]

Anyway jeanie did you try to see if you can sync at higher speeds? I remember last time Nikon's max sync speed isn't really a constrain like Canon's. Something different with the mechanism.

i tried lei splut.
anything above 1/250, half the frame becomes dark.
curtain closes on me.

 

[catchlights]

you already freeze the boy in action.what's there to find out?:dunno:

btw, what lights are you using?

elinchrom 500, some time, can't have all parts freeze in the air, so it is good if I can do that with existing set up.

 

[jeanie]

elinchrom 500, some time, can't have all parts freeze in the air, so it is good if I can do that with existing set up.

so the boy boy what settings you use if i may ask?

 

[jeanie]

ok guys, i just did some test shots.

even at ISO 500, 1/250 and f4, lights placed AS CLOSE to subject as allowable, fast movements will still result in motion blur.
:cry:

 

[jeanie]

got the reply from bowens forum from a guy known as alex.

but i still catch no ball.


Dear Jeanie,

1. t=0.5 means that the duration, or time needed if the light has reached half power of peaks value the flash settled is 1/925sec. And so after that the flash tube still ionizing (this is electronic terms) until it totally fades. If you need to set the shutter, you must find t=0,1 time, which is much longer than t=0,5. If you agree the value of t=0,1 is enough to freeze the subject, and so the dancer will not have any tail (such as in slow shutter speed effect). PM me if you need more explanations.
2. If you shoot the dancer in totally darkness, and you may use slower than synchro-speed ie. 1/250 sec. Could be 1/2, 1/4, or even B. But if you shoot in normally lighted room, you may use the highest synchro-speed ie. 1/250sec.

I hope this would be clear enough.
Regards,

Alex.

 

[catchlights]

so the boy boy what settings you use if i may ask?

sorry, I tot I have replied you this afternoon.

main and fill lights is at ¼ power, background lights is minimium power, shoot at ISO 100, f11, 1/200s, room lights are on and it's quiet bright.

 

[catchlights]

got the reply from bowens forum from a guy known as alex.

but i still catch no ball.


Dear Jeanie,

1. t=0.5 means that the duration, or time needed if the light has reached half power of peaks value the flash settled is 1/925sec. And so after that the flash tube still ionizing (this is electronic terms) until it totally fades. If you need to set the shutter, you must find t=0,1 time, which is much longer than t=0,5. If you agree the value of t=0,1 is enough to freeze the subject, and so the dancer will not have any tail (such as in slow shutter speed effect). PM me if you need more explanations.
2. If you shoot the dancer in totally darkness, and you may use slower than synchro-speed ie. 1/250 sec. Could be 1/2, 1/4, or even B. But if you shoot in normally lighted room, you may use the highest synchro-speed ie. 1/250sec.

I hope this would be clear enough.
Regards,

Alex.

also catch no ball. :embrass:

 

[zac08]

ok guys, i just did some test shots.

even at ISO 500, 1/250 and f4, lights placed AS CLOSE to subject as allowable, fast movements will still result in motion blur.
:cry:

What power were the lights on? Full power?

try 1/4 power or less...

 

[gooseberry]

Usually when they specify flash duration for strobes, they will quote a t=0.5 figure (depends on the brand, some brands also quote a t=0.1 figure)

When your strobe fires at full power, it doesn't go from zero power all the way to full power instantaneously. It takes some time to build up from zero to full power (same goes for when it turns off, it doesn't go from full power down to zero instantaneously either). So for a t=0.5 figure, what they do is measure the time between when the strobe first reaches 50% power on it's way up to full power and when the strobes hits 50% power again on it's way down. Similarly, the t=0.1 figure is taken from the 10% power points.

 

[theRBK]

just have to try to catch the dancer at the top of the movement, when the dancer is almost stationary in the air... what the NBA calls hangtime... that is when relative velocity is minimum... 's all about timing...

 

[jeanie]

What power were the lights on? Full power?

try 1/4 power or less...

almost minimal.:cry:

 

[jeanie]

Usually when they specify flash duration for strobes, they will quote a t=0.5 figure (depends on the brand, some brands also quote a t=0.1 figure)

When your strobe fires at full power, it doesn't go from zero power all the way to full power instantaneously. It takes some time to build up from zero to full power (same goes for when it turns off, it doesn't go from full power down to zero instantaneously either). So for a t=0.5 figure, what they do is measure the time between when the strobe first reaches 50% power on it's way up to full power and when the strobes hits 50% power again on it's way down. Similarly, the t=0.1 figure is taken from the 10% power points.

i have a better picture already.thanks technical adviser.:thumbsup: