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Hi bro, i have my reason for using the 18-200 len. thus i need a flash to compensate the low light condition. ;) ... so i hope to know which type of flash combine well with the len. :)

18-200 really sucks in low light. But if you have your reasons, well, :dunno: it is your money and your camera. I really recommend the 18-200VR2 instead of the first version. The first version has the problem that the adhesive holding the ribbon cable will come loose, and when that happens, a lever inside the lens will crush the cable, causing your VR to fail. The part to be replaced cost less than $20, but the labor will be more than $160. So think twice before getting the first version... If you do really get the first version, I suggest you bring it to a lens technician (like bro fatigue), and get the ribbon secured tightly either with strong tape, or epoxy. Like they say, prevention is better than cure.

SB800 has been discontinued for a while now, since SB900 came out. You are left with SB600 and SB900. And since SB900 is out of budget, you only have SB600. Nissin is ok sometimes but the only one worth getting is the Di866. Problem is, I have been hearing people having problems with the 866.
 

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Newbie here! Just got a D90 and happy to be a part of CS community. D90 still nicely sitting in box. My first question, for UV filters is a must to use only those multi-coat types over normal types? Still havent decide which to get.:confused:

well i gt a UV filter basically to protect the lens~ haa but take note sometime gt flare... so then take out the filter haa... or if can use lens hood lor
 

well i gt a UV filter basically to protect the lens~ haa but take note sometime gt flare... so then take out the filter haa... or if can use lens hood lor

Getting a multicoated one will reduce that flare.

But when shooting at night, remember to remove any filter. Bright lights and filters are not a good match, and will give rise to flare and ghosting.
 

I ditto wmayeo's comment about getting a fast prime. For the price of the flash, depending on your style, 35/1.8, 50/1.8, 50/1.4 or 85/1.8. Push ISO up to 800 or 1600 and you should be able to capture the ambient light/mood.

But if you really want a flash, forget about 3rd party. You will have problems when you upgrade the body. Get the SB-600 or SB-900. If you can still find SB-800, by all means.

What we don't know is how far you're shooting from and distance is an important parameter in flash photography.

having a 50mm f1.8 which i agree i able to capture the mood, etc. However i need to move in/out in order to take some of the photos which require time plus if there are huge crowd guess i have problem of moving too. tat why having a zoom len is better for me to catpure either the whole band singing or close up shot of individual. ;)

yah tat my biggest concern.. distance is a important in flash photography.. tat why i seeking bros here who have use flash w the len before to give their experience or those in flash photography can advice me yah....;p
 

18-200 really sucks in low light. But if you have your reasons, well, :dunno: it is your money and your camera. I really recommend the 18-200VR2 instead of the first version. The first version has the problem that the adhesive holding the ribbon cable will come loose, and when that happens, a lever inside the lens will crush the cable, causing your VR to fail. The part to be replaced cost less than $20, but the labor will be more than $160. So think twice before getting the first version... If you do really get the first version, I suggest you bring it to a lens technician (like bro fatigue), and get the ribbon secured tightly either with strong tape, or epoxy. Like they say, prevention is better than cure.

SB800 has been discontinued for a while now, since SB900 came out. You are left with SB600 and SB900. And since SB900 is out of budget, you only have SB600. Nissin is ok sometimes but the only one worth getting is the Di866. Problem is, I have been hearing people having problems with the 866.

oh man... 18-200vr2 is really better in term of low light? or it only the ribbon cable issue?... hmmmm it worth having to consider ...
 

oh man... 18-200vr2 is really better in term of low light? or it only the ribbon cable issue?... hmmmm it worth having to consider ...

V2 slightly mitigated the ribbon cable issue. Specs wise it is the same as the first version. Meaning, it still sucks at low light. But it performs very well in good lighting, and is very convenient as a travel lens.
 

having a 50mm f1.8 which i agree i able to capture the mood, etc. However i need to move in/out in order to take some of the photos which require time plus if there are huge crowd guess i have problem of moving too. tat why having a zoom len is better for me to catpure either the whole band singing or close up shot of individual. ;)

yah tat my biggest concern.. distance is a important in flash photography.. tat why i seeking bros here who have use flash w the len before to give their experience or those in flash photography can advice me yah....;p

i was told the "best" form of zoom is your leg.
anyway 50mm 1.8 min distance is abt 0.45m
there shld have enuff walking area for your need.
 

i was told the "best" form of zoom is your leg.
anyway 50mm 1.8 min distance is abt 0.45m
there shld have enuff walking area for your need.

I'm not sure who told you that, but I am sure they have more to learn about perspective and working distance.

It is not all about leg zoom. In some situations you can't walk closer anymore. And focal length and working distance actually do affect how people in your pictures look. Check out the following to read more:

http://www.ephotozine.com/article/Focal-lengths-in-portraits-5687
http://www.derekfountain.org/portrait_focal_lengths.php
http://blog.forret.com/2010/02/focal-length-for-the-common-man-portrait-distance/
 

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Hey....Bought D90 a month ago.....quite new in photography.. I just want to find out what the diff between kit lenses n other lenses...
 

I'm not sure who told you that, but I am sure they have more to learn about perspective and working distance.

It is not all about leg zoom. In some situations you can't walk closer anymore. And focal length and working distance actually do affect how people in your pictures look. Check out the following to read more:

http://www.ephotozine.com/article/Focal-lengths-in-portraits-5687
http://www.derekfountain.org/portrait_focal_lengths.php
http://blog.forret.com/2010/02/focal-length-for-the-common-man-portrait-distance/

yes.... there really some situation where i can't get any closer and there also situation where i can't get any further, coz there will be ppl blocking ur view, can't tell them to stand away right?..... guess bro daredevil has spoken what in my heart.....:thumbsup:
 

I'm not sure who told you that, but I am sure they have more to learn about perspective and working distance.

It is not all about leg zoom. In some situations you can't walk closer anymore. And focal length and working distance actually do affect how people in your pictures look. Check out the following to read more:

http://www.ephotozine.com/article/Focal-lengths-in-portraits-5687
http://www.derekfountain.org/portrait_focal_lengths.php
http://blog.forret.com/2010/02/focal-length-for-the-common-man-portrait-distance/

sorry bro, i didnt make myself clear i mean to say using 50mm lens with leg zoom at that kind of setting is better then using a kit lens which you dun need to leg zoom but the pic quality go "off"

i am still new, thanks alot for the link :thumbsup:
 

Getting a multicoated one will reduce that flare.

But when shooting at night, remember to remove any filter. Bright lights and filters are not a good match, and will give rise to flare and ghosting.


icic noted =D
 

Hey....Bought D90 a month ago.....quite new in photography.. I just want to find out what the diff between kit lenses n other lenses...

Welcome! Main diff being price, weight, optical quality, lens constructions, lens elements, af speed, zoom n fixed focal length, variable aperture n constant and the list goes on...u had posed a general ws, answer will be quite the same aso :)

use ur kit lenses first n read up on the rest when u have the time.. It helps in the long run
 

errr what is GSS?? my lcd protector also start to have scratches . rather irritating.

Guess what? I was only kidding when I joked GSS being Great Sg Sale, obviously I didn't have a clue! :bsmilie:

But yesterday, I've replaced my LCD protector with the GSS screens (talk about tailored fit on D90!) Good recommendation Daredevil! :thumbsup:

The thing is they are not exactly generic thin clear screens, there is a certain thickness (still very clear) and with black borders. When it's on the cam, you don't even know it's there unless you scrutinise carefully. It's not only for the main LCD screen but also the smaller one on the top right. Now I have complete protection for the screens - no worries about scratches! :bsmilie:
 

Hey....Bought D90 a month ago.....quite new in photography.. I just want to find out what the diff between kit lenses n other lenses...

About lenses, start reading up on reviews!:
http://www.photozone.de/
http://www.imaging-resource.com/
Google Ken Rockwell.

Compare all three and see if they all say the same thing about each lens, some will have differing opinions (probably subjected to personal preferences).

A general rule, f/2.8 lenses and lower (1.4 / 1.8 etc) are "sharp" lenses - able to capture images at many lighting conditions - tendency to be priced 2 to 5 times higher than f/3.5 and above (4.5 / 5.6 etc). The latter being cheaper and not best at low lights (night scene, dimly lighted areas). Watch out for distortions (some with serious pin-cushions) that come with some of the lens - just because a lens comes at f/2.8 doesn't mean lesser distortion. Distortion affects straight lines - if you shoot a building head on, you'll detect ugly and unwanted curvy lines that didn't exist in the real world. A headache to correct even if you resort to post production editing...

Read about Chromatic Aberations (CA) - it will affect final image (purple / red / blue fringing on the edge of objects).

Read about Bokehs - quality of blur. Some lenses whilst sharp will give you very distracting bokehs. Why do we need background blurs? Coz we want the main subject to be completely isolated from the background (like popping out) - so the background is best blurred. This is different if you want the background to be focused as well as the main subject - eg, person standing in front of a very beautiful scenery in the far distant (most PnS can do this well). f/2.8 lenses are better at creating background blurs than F/3.5 or higher lenses. That's why f/2.8 are usually not cheap, the exception being the 50mm f/1.8D best low-priced fixed-lens to start with. Macro shooters (bugs, birds, etc) would always want their background blurred so the focus is completely on the subject itself.

Read about Depth of Field - a bit related to Bokehs, but not the same as.
 

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Guess what? I was only kidding when I joked GSS being Great Sg Sale, obviously I didn't have a clue! :bsmilie:

But yesterday, I've replaced my LCD protector with the GSS screens (talk about tailored fit on D90!) Good recommendation Daredevil! :thumbsup:

The thing is they are not exactly generic thin clear screens, there is a certain thickness (still very clear) and with black borders. When it's on the cam, you don't even know it's there unless you scrutinise carefully. It's not only for the main LCD screen but also the smaller one on the top right. Now I have complete protection for the screens - no worries about scratches! :bsmilie:


GSS screen came with my D70;p
But I took it out and replaced with a LCD protector coz I find it rather opaque...and when I sweat...I reali can't see from the tiny lcd....:bsmilie:
 

GSS screen came with my D70;p
But I took it out and replaced with a LCD protector coz I find it rather opaque...and when I sweat...I reali can't see from the tiny lcd....:bsmilie:

Get the D90! GSS works well with that body! :devil:
 

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