Strobist - SUNPAK 120J PROFESSIONAL


Hi all, here to share another shot from Polaroid Gals 2 shoot.

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One light from the side, close to model. This is actually a test shot. Noticed the lens flare, so shifted my lens a bit and shoot a bit higher. Lens flare gone, went back home. Compared the images :think: ... decided to shortlist the lens flare shot to be in the spread.

Continuous Fluorescent Light (Technical), Photography with Continuous Fluorescent Lights
 

Hi all : > time really flies. Tomorrow will be December and Christmas is around the corner. And soon a NEW year is coming.

I have been scouting for locations for Polaroid Gals, and am looking for original nostalgic places. Such structures are very hard to find in modern Singapore. I am glad I am born in the 70s and have been through the good old days when we don't lock our main gate and neighbors would drop by to chit chat or watch HK TVB serial together.

There is a Chinese saying, 旧的不去, 新的不来 (If the old don't go, the new will never come... sorry for the direct blunt translation). From coin phone - pager - the BRICK hand phone - call zone phone - hand phone - sms - iphone - wifi - whatsapp. New things always improve our lives in some ways. And some old things will not be missed.

During scouting, I came across this old provision shop which I visited a few times when I was in art school. When I went there during August to scout, I am delighted to find that the shop was still open for business. Talking with the old couple owners instantly reminded me of the warmth kampong feel when I was young.

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The owner gracefully allowed me to shoot their shop front which I am very grateful of. I think I only spend a quick ten mins because I don't want to interrupt their business. A month later, my wife sms me saying that she read an article that the shop would be closing down in end of October. Upon learning this I felt very sad... During mid October I decided to drop by and visit the shop. Sadly, the shop was already closed. I really wish I could do something.

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1 light, closed down aperture to tone down the background. I can actually use D70's scary 1/1000 flash sync with wide open Fstop to further tone down. However sky is getting dark and I got one more thing to shoot before wrapping up. Decided to go with A100 since its with me and D70 was inside the trolley case​


Lastly please give me a few mins of your time. Below are photos taken by Wyn during Polaroid Gals One. These are Instant BnW peel film, FP-3000B. An amazing film which I am looking forward to use with my strobist work.

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Two weeks ago, I learnt that Fujifilm has decided to dis-continued this film. It broke my heart and sadden me :bheart:. I have not felt so sad for a long time since Lonesome George died. Currently FP-3000B is the only BnW peel film left in the world. Instant film photographers from all over the world are trying to stop it from dying. If you are interested to find out more please drop by here, I have started a thread in ClubSnap's Medium & Large Format section. If you think that this film is something worth keeping, please help. Thank you so much! Appreciated.
 

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Hi all : > Coming Wednesday will be Christmas. And next next Wednesday will be 2014, A New Year.

Decided to share with you guys the editorial spread (mock-up) for Polaroid Gals 2.
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Do stay tuned for Polaroid Gals 3 – The Twins. Below is a teaser pic from the shoot.
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Btw, do check out this cold vimeo video: The Tale of Two Meters by cinematographer Mark Vargo :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
A very informative video about Reflected Spot Light Meter and Incident Light Meter. A Must Watch

Have a Merry Merry Christmas everyone.
 

Hi all, soon we will be welcoming a brand NEW year.

2013 I think I did a few lesser photo shoots compare to 2012, but this year I did much more outdoor than indoor shoot, about 80% of them are outdoor. Personally speaking if a person (or newbie like me) really want to learn fa---st. Outdoor shoot really pushed a photographer's limit to the brim. A lot of things are beyond your control. I will share more of my thoughts the following updates.

2014... I hope I can do more personal shoots, and I have a few idea cooking up in my mind. Will look into the ideas more indepth when I wrapped up Polaroid Gals #5 (Last one) in Late January. Now back to main topic

Polaroid - The Twins was an idea I had for a long time when I started collecting Polaroid cameras. Interestingly Polaroid camera have a lot of cameras that are almost identical but with a few very minor difference. Like the One Step/1000 Green and Red Button. The retro grey "THE button" left and right and many many more. I called these camera “POLAROID Twins” and will put them side by side on display in my home office.

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Technically in terms of lighting and pre planning. This is the most challenging shoot I ever did. in case you are wondering, they are not twins. They are the same model photographed twice and have a bit of photoshop magic apply to it. Models are Ho Sin and YY, beautiful models with great attitude and brainy. Ho Sin have a bit more experience and have a natural cool look that she effortlessly can do it b4 you wink your eye. YY although a bit least experience in posing, put in 200% effort and willing to try. Once she slowly warm up, she is just as good as a pro model. This time the make up is done by Miss Normi, a very good artist with impressive skills.
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Left photo I lite Ho Sin with 2 bearbulb flash, why? I can't remember. I just choose to lit barebulb. Right, at first I choose to use a umbrella. But after see it on my LCD. It look un-natural. So I just shoot full ambient.

Happy NEW YEAR everyone : >

Note: If you see any missing link images, please just refresh the page. (May take a few times to reload the images)​
 

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Hi all, here's to share another setup I did + my thoughts on why doing outdoor shoot is great despite many challenges.

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At the first look, you'd know I am not trying hard to get a natural light shot. Shadows everywhere... At the second look, you probably feel that the background is distracting (the traffic and HDB flat) which I agree with you to some extent. However in getting these shots, I faced lots of challenges.

Challenge #01:People Element. As you know, the location is the famous Toa Payoh Dragon, one of the few Sand Floor playground left in Singapore. I will share more on this below if you're interested. This place is very popular with photographers and surprisingly parents who do not stay nearby brought their kids there to play. There were a lot of people everywhere as the shoot happened. Since this is a public playground, I have to improvise on the move. A few days back, I went recce The Dragon (something I always do before a shoot), it was quiet and serene as the nearby blocks have been vacated for redevelopment. It was the perfect location for Polaroid Gals 3. I know I will expect some people turning up during a weekend but I never expected so many people visiting The Dragon. It was a very good thing - people treasure old things that have values and have been part of Singapore History.

Anyway, this shot happened after the rain had stopped. I really wanted to shoot the metal ladder steps so I went there to setup before people start to show up. My original idea was to use a 60 inch umbrella plus a second light as a fill to lit The Dragon's bottom Chin. I encountered number of challenges here... Challenge #02: Environment or Location Constraint. I couldn't setup my 60” umbrella because the available space was very cramp and the umbrella will be in my shot. Hmmm... how about I extend the 60” upward or use a boom to create a huge drop light, I thought to myself. Then I realized something... Challenge #03: Gear Constraint. I only bought compact light stands with max height 2m and I never bring any of my boom arms and my H2o weight. How about just shoot ambient? But... Challenge #04: Natural Element. No, I can't. The sky is cloudy grey and the light is bad and I had to pump up my ISO to 800 to get a decent shutter to compensate body movements + I am using my old A100 and even older D70 which okay ISO is 400 max (my view). I also wanted a deep DOF so I could composite or cut out the image easier and have more margin of error allowance. This is based on my experience as a graphic designer and I am okay with the creative decision I made. Its a give and take. Last Challenge: Time Constraint. I predicted I only have 30 mins max before people showing up so I decided to shoot frontal (safe shots), I did try to shot low but I really don't like what I see. UP? I don't have a ladder and my tripod is 1.5m max. Luckily by the time I get the shots I want with 2 (4 models?). A group of fellow photographers showed up with props and other stuff.


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Sorry for the inaccurate dragon diagram. It is just to show setup. Good thing about rectangle softbox to octagon is that they can fit closer to a wall or corner. I remember I removed the diffuser to get more light output and I had to pull the 6090 softbox away about 2m + to get it out of my shots so technically it's already not a soft light anymore. The bare bulb was just to lit the overall scene and the Dragon's bottom chin. I swap the order when changing side as I wanted the main to lit the model's face. Of course by doing this, I got unnatural confusing shadows. Give and take, and I accepted it. It's not a perfect shot but I like it very much. Now if I am given a chance to do it again, how would I do it differently? I probably will bring my 2.8m light stand and boom arm and hang over me and a small umbrella aiming upwards to soften chin's shadow. It's something like a clamp shell. But... I am not sure can I pull it off as the dragon tail most likely wouldn't allow me to put a big 2.8m light stand close to it. Maybe there are other cool setup but this is the best I can think off now and the shadow will be more natural.

Before I end my post, please let me share a bit on The Toa Payoh Dragon. Dragon Playgrounds used to be common all around Singapore in the 70s. It was designed by a Singaporean architect?/interior designer, it is truly 100% made in Singapore and uniquely only Singapore has this.

I remember when I was 5-6 yrs old, there was a Full Orange color Dragon facing my flat next to a market. It have 2 metal ladder steps build into sections of the spine. It is very different from Toa Payoh Dragon. Mums allowed their children to play at the Dragon while they did their marketing or drinking kopi with other Aunties. There was another BIG playground space behind my flat. It's a Sand floor SeeSaw, and had the Pelican (I call bid bird), a big orange merry-go-round, cement “Play Mobil Horses and a Turtle”. It also had a very tall strange tree alike thingy structure that children could climb... I never tried it cause it looked a bit scary to me LOL.

As our society develops, land is getting more scarce. Dragons and big playground space started to disappear one by one. And from what I know, Singapore only has two big Dragons and a few small ones (not sand floor) left standing. Btw one small one is at Toa Payoh too and I will visit it soon : >. The other big Dragon (sadly also not sand floor) is at Ang Mo Kio. These playgrounds represent a part of Singapore's history and have soul and beautiful aesthetic that no modern expendable plastic/fiber glass tiny playground can match.

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Currently it seems like the Toa Payoh Dragon is safe for now. But back than I couldn't find any “official confirmation” that the Dragons will be preserved. And because of this doubt, I decided to go back to Toa Payoh Dragon and do Polaroid Gal 4 last year December. It's a small space but the creative options are immense. I went there twice and yet I can't finish all the ideas on my mood board. Right now the HDB block behind the Dragon is scheduled for demolition and is cordoned off. It is not as nice as before. But for young photographers who never see an old playground, I suggest you to go visit it while it is still standing on sand...

While doing recce, I know that another part of old Toa Payoh has some interesting old playground structures. I went there and I was shocked to see that the whole entire space was going thru some major upgrading. These old structures are the cement “Play Mobil” horses and some mini elephants. First thought on my mind is OH NO... I told myself maybe this is not the space but I know this is not true as I see it every time when I pass by. I went around trying to search for it and to my relief I saw them. Amazingly they were not smashed into pieces.

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These are the “Play Mobil” horses and the strange tree thingy I write about. But this one is shorter, smaller and less creepy. Now come the question, what is the fate for all these precious vintage structures? Are they putting aside for disposal or will they be preserved and re-introduced into the new upgraded environment? Hell I have no idea... If anyone who stay nearby and know the decision made please let me know. I can't bear to see meaningful old things disappear or being destroyed. Perhaps we can do something about this...

Thank you for taking your time to read. :)

Continuous Fluorescent Light (Technical), Photography with Continuous Fluorescent Lights
 

Hi all, The Year of Horse have arrived. Everyone will be busy these few days giving or receiving AngBao. Envy those who are receiving.

Decided to share a quick setup since I will be busy In the Month of February.

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This was a shot taken before the Ladder shot setup above. It was raining cats and dogs and we had to scramble for shelter. The rain lasted about 30+ mins. Instead of just standing around doing nothing, I decided to do one of the ideas from my mood board. I had about 1.5m of space from the wall, anything further it would be hit by rain. 60” umbrella a no-no as it was just too big, the 60x90 okay but still got hit by the rain occasionally. I remembered by the time the rain stopped, it was totally wet including my back. The background was also a bit challenging as the negative space was limited due to windows, wall pillars and pipe. The original idea was to use the background of the Dragon's Mosaic wall to composite two into one seamlessly. But since it rained and time was ticking fast, I had to adapt.

The softbox was the main and a barebulb as a fill. For some reason I was hoping that the fill would reduce shadows and give a high key look? Of course this won't work! dah... what am I thinking? The barebulb being small light source created a very specular shadow. It did lit up the yellow brick wall and whiten it a tad. When I chimp on the LCD. Hmmm... interesting. A bit like Terry Richardson. Decided I just stick with it, The wall pillar and the pipe I would just PS out later. When I went back home, and composite the two into one, I decided not to PS out the wall pillar thingy. I like the imperfection and it sort of work for the layout.

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Stay tune for this “Little Pony” setup sharing coming end February. Wishing everyone from CS “马到功成, GongXiFaCai”, enjoy your Holidays.​
:)
 

Hi all, as promised the setup for the Pony Ride shot.

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One light side lit about 2m+ from the model, also wanted a rim light to lit the shoulder and back of the head. Never add the rim because of time running short and the lights keep falling due to strong wind. I think my softboxes and umbrella fell at least 3-6 times each through out the day. It was really windy, should have brought along my H2o weight. Frankly, this shot would be a bit more better if it was clampshell frontal lit to give a more natural shadow.
 

Hi all, below is the last setup from The Twins.

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Simple two lights - left and right, the camera was on tripod with a remote trigger cord and I pre-focused and prepared YY where and when the shot would be taken. F6.3+flashes give me a lot of room to work with, so no worries about getting blur facial shots. Good thing about this setup is that - no matter which direction the model's face is facing, her eyes will always be lit. Giving her more freedom on freestyle posing.

Lastly OL master Zack Arias will be in town with 3 other photography masters for a POPUP GPP talk. I never mention this b4, It was through Mr Zack Arias that I got to know about the SUNPAK 120J and I fall in love with it 5 yrs ago. Back then I was slowly transitioning from CFLs to flash photography as I started doing some simple portrait shots for clients. I was wondering which flash to invest in - Old Nikon SBs or Old Minolta 5400HS. When I saw 120J, the deal was sealed immediately.

Mr Zack Arias has gone through a transition phase these 5 yrs to become a even better photographer. I observe, as a photographer, he decided to move on into new pastures and opportunities. In doing so, lot of his works and great sharing on SUNPAK 120J are lost during his transformation phases. It's sad that new photographers will not see these great tips and photos. I remember most of these tips and hopefully in the future I will share with you guys.

Joe Mcnally, if you are into strobist, you MUST know him. He is one of the 2 guys (the other being Mark Wallace) that inspired me to share knowledge on-line. So that's two brilliant photographers who sort of make this thread happen will be here in Singapore soon, I'm saving up now and hopefully be there (finger cross). Personally I think its worth every penny, triple confirmed!

Continuous Fluorescent Light (Technical), Photography with Continuous Fluorescent Lights
 

wonderful work! other than impeccable photography I love the styling and makeup
 

Hi all, below is the editorial mock up for “The Twins”. Currently I'm still searching for a suitable outdoor location for Polaroid Gals 5 :think:... also waiting for one “BIG?” Polaroid camera on its way from the US.

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Do stay tuned for a new mini strobist tip this April :D
 

Hi all, got a mini tip to share with you guys and gals. Hope some of you will find it useful.

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Reflector is a great option as a fill light modifier when you need to open up shadows on a model's face. Sometimes a photographer can hold a reflector on one hand while the other hand holding a camera. Not a easy feat if your camera is the pro one with heavy pro lens. So having an assistant or a friend to hold it is desirable. However this luxury is not always available, so a reflector holder is a good replacement + it will never complain.


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For the reflectors holders you need 4 stationery clamps, 2 bolt and 6 nuts. To be safe, buy the stationery clamps first than find the suitable bolt that can go thru the hole.​


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For the reflector, I am using a foldable car shade. Hard to believe, I bought this shade for a mere S$1 from those dollar shop 2 yrs ago during its renovation sale.​


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The setup is quite simple, a 60x90 with grid and no diffuser with a 120J @ 1/8 power. The grid is use so it is easier to see the the fill light with or without. Sorry, instead of a model I am using a Polaroid Pathfinder 120 to act as a human face. The 120 is big, as big as my face except a bit narrower. Frankly speaking I have never use this DIY rig in any of my shoot as I have a couple of photography reflectors and 2 different kind of reflector holders. Based on the result, I must say the DIY is quite good + It's cheap. The one I DIY cost about S$3, S$1 for the shade + S$1 (most likely cheaper) for the bolts and nuts + S$1 for 4 clamps. However do take note, this rig will do well for indoor shoot. Outdoor most likely not so well.


 

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I wish to thank you guys for a very informative thread - especially Mr. wahgongzai.

I was on a lookout for a month or two until I scored with three 120J units with external battery packs, and 2pcs of spare battery pack internal battery cells, and one spare bulb.

I have merely tested the units out and they work well. I am however unsatisfied with flimsy battery pack power cable terminals. They do come loose real easy. I am looking to replace them with something that locks up as a locking ring is turned.

Same treatment will be directed to flash trigger cable terminal. That will get something new as well.

I am planning to run these three Sunpak units under radio receiver trigger units. Radio triggers are going to have a semi-permanent mounting on these Sunpak units maybe by a velcro tape. This arrangement will cut down the time when setting up the flashes.

All in all, I am happily waiting to use these flashes extensively.

- A.
 

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Hi all, just to share a light setup I did for a TFCD one month after the Polaroid Twins shoot. Back than because of fear and doubt that the Toa Payoh Dragon play ground will be demolish for redevelopment. I decided that I will revisit the Dragon again. This time I decided I will just go simple, just model, photographer and maybe an assistant. Fortunately my old friend Wyn have agreed to help me on this shoot. She will be a second photographer, second model, assistant, stylist cum art director. Yes, she is the only person I know of able to ace all these tasks combined in a single time frame. She is like a superwoman!

Model is Alyson, young, brainy, adapt to art directions fast and very easy going. Very pleasant experience working with her.


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On the plus side for this shoot, it happened on a week day so we have the playground all to ourselves. On the minus side, it is sunny most of the time but the sun come and goes at crucial moments when we need it and we have to face a battalion of army mosquito at the playground (rainy season+lots of dead foliage laying around). Trust me, these tiny insects look horrifying to a person who have been hit by dengue a few months back. These shots was taken on the 3rd try when the bright sun finally stay there for more than 20 mins. The first and second try not so smooth, it is like “Now you see it (the sun), bang! Now you don't in an instant”. So when the sun did finally came out from the clouds again and the drop shadows appeared. Wyn started shouting (with good intention) at me telling me to do it quick, I remember I am doing some close up profile shots at the time. Without thinking I ask Alyson to stand at the designated spot, place the 60x90 about 4m+ from the side (it will be harsh but I want the face to be lit). Climb up to the ladder and start shooting. F6.3, I want a deep DOF and 1/800 to tone down the very bright ambient condition. I love you so much NIKON D70. Because I am standing quite far away from Alyson, I am shouting out my art directions and at the same time can't help saying out loud these words, “stay with me (sun) almost got it, stay with me, oh oh almost there, one more, oh oh almost stay with me” It was hilarious, too bad I never do BTS videos. I think at some point Alyson have a hard time keep a straight face :bsmilie:.

Lastly thanks for the up from Shizuma and Arto Lehikoinen. Appreciated :)

Continuous Fluorescent Light (Technical), Photography with Continuous Fluorescent Lights
 

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Hi all, just to share the last light setup and a valuable tip from Alyson shoot. The two shots above were taken almost at the same time and ambient light condition. The only difference is its angle and how it was lit. In term of lightning, I think both have its merits although I hate to say this: Wyn's photo is whop ass kicking hands down compared to mine... I hate you Wyn joke joke :bsmilie:. Obviously, the tip is to use your feet to move (zoom) around to get a different view point/perspective and background, rather than to stay at the same spot and use a zoom lens to composite. Actually I do have a reason not to do that as I had a bleeding right toe and my two feet were in burning pain due to fiction wounds after running with a new leather sandals for 1+km... long story short, forgetful = my bad.

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Now let's get back, the ambient light was beautiful during that time and frankly speaking flash was not a must. However I chose to use flash so as to put a bit more light on to the model's face and the Polaroid Land 95 which was shaded by Alyson's body. And of course by using a flash I also added some catch lights to Alyson's eyes to give it a bit of the pop.

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Since this is my second shoot at The Dragon, I had brought along my heavy 2.4m light stand, my boom arm and my H2O weight. It held quite well. My 60x90 did not fall at all from start to end.
 

Hi all, next Saturday will be our home 49th Birthday. Happy Birthday Singapore :cheers:

Below is the editorial mock up for Polaroid Gals 4.
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Hi all,

Before you read on, just a heads up - this is basically a sharing of my personal thoughts/advise/experiece and some rant writing. No light setup or mini tips sharing today.

Five years ago on this day, I started this thread to share what I have learnt from others online, thru mentors or good friends. It's been a long way and I am grateful that the thread has hit 50K views. I have been thinking of how should I approach today's topic. After some thoughts, I decided that it will be in a form of QnA thingy. Past few years I have met a lot of CS bro/sis and have a chance to chat and discuss interesting topics or just geeking out on photography stuffs. Some of the topics we talk about will be shared here.

Now before I start, I like to highlight that all writings are my personal comments and how I think it works best for me. Everybody works and thinks differently when it comes to photography, and if your way is totally opposite of mine, be cool and don't get angry and come in gun blazing and rant about how wrong I am. Just keep on doing what you think suits you best and keep on shooting pixels and film. I think all of us can agree on this point.

Do I really need to get a SUNPAK 120J or a Bare Bulb flash for strobist? If I’m interested in a Bare Bulb flash, what are your suggestions?
Absolutely NOT, you absolutely don't need a Bare Bulb flash to do strobist photography.

For me it's just a thing that I love the SUNPAK 120J (blaming GAS). It works actually like a “mini me” strobe flash and it runs on AA batteries. Being a 120J fanboy, many of us are very disappointed that SUNPAK doesn't produce 120J anymore (puzzling). Photographer Zack Arias (The One Light guy) tried a few times talking with SUNPAK, but it didn't help. Zack Arias however did manage to stir up a SUNPAK 120J craze a few years back when he released his super awesome ONE LIGHT DVD. Price went up 25-50% and it became a very popular flash in used market. Some not-so cool people started to blame Zack Arias for it which I felt it's totally unjust. Now Zack Arias has not been seen using 120J or talk about it. All his great sharings, sadly, are all gone when he slowly transits his focus into new photography grounds. He still uses his old SB Nikon flash for some of his work and teaching though.

Overall what I really want to do is to provide a knowledge platform for photographers to know a bit more about this cool flash. And someday SUNPAK might consider re-introduce this Quirky yet Brilliant flash back into the market. Now I know that, a rumour of a new SUNPAK 120J II is coming to town from lightingrumours.com. Sadly this flash is not a new SUNPAK 120J but a rebranded TRIOPO TR-120... And personally I think it is not close to 120J powerful 120Ws power. TRIOPO never mentioned the Ws rating just a 54 guide number. Based on the slim low-profile flash head design, I suspect at most is 60-65Ws. For the original SUNPAK 120J, it packed two 350V 1050uf capacitors thus the Duck head design. Based on TRIOPO TR-120 product photos, I can't see where it can squeeze in the 2 flash capacitors? Personally I strongly feel that any new bare bulb flash (4xAA battery power) which does not have at least 115Ws or more power, is not a SUNPAK 120J worthy successor.

One day I wished that a real SUNPAK 120J successor will be introduced into the market. This has been on my 2nd most wanted photography wish list. BTW, if you are wondering. My1st on the wish list is that Nikon will reintroduce a NEW and improved Nikon D70s electronic shutter camera specially for strobist. I believe that there is a market for this. Nikon, are you listening? My 3rd wish is for Polaroid SX-70/600 + all the discontinued instant peel film to reduce in pricing so everyone can enjoy shooting these cool film formats.

Now back to topic, as mentioned before you do not need a bare bulb flash to do strobist. A normal hot shoe flash with a cheap diffusion soap box will do an okay job mimicking a omnidirectional bare bulb. For a comparison between a normal hot shoe flash vs a bare bulb you can refer to a blog post article by photographer Mic Ty. He did a really good job at explaining it. Now after reading the post and you still interested in a “Bare Bulb Camera Hot Shoe flash alike,” then here are your options:

Bare Bulb 4 AA powered Flash
(Sadly, there is still no120J successor as for now. But if you don't mind a least powerful flash here are some options you can consider)
Polaroid PL135 (David Hobby call it the 60J : >)
TRIOPO TR-120

If you don't need a AA powered BB flash, you have a few more options to choose from:

Godox AD180/360 (It's like a Quantum X, but way more advance and versatile. A bit bigger and heavier than the 120J.)
Quantum Q Flash (A very popular flash among pro photographers since the late 80s, you can find used X/X2 or new ones X5 on line)

There are others China made bare bulb flash in the market, but honestly I think none of them can beat the Godox AD yet... at least in term of accessories and versatility.


First light modifier for newbie strobist?
Start from the most basic, a 2-in-1 reflect/shoot thru umbrella, the bigger the better. A big umbrella allows you to do quite a bit of stuff like full portrait, couples and even small group photo shoot. And if in some situation, you want a smaller light spread. Just close down the umbrella to the desired size you want. Voila! A small light modifier that behaves like a soft box. This is an ultra cool method called “The poor man soft box” by Zack Arias. I learnt from him when he taught at creativelive. For photographers who have always been shooting natural light and are hesitating in venturing into strobist, they can also consider used gear like light stand/trigger/YN flashes from CS BnS. You save quite a bit, and if strobist is not your thing you can always sell the used gear. For students, you can consider looking for buddies to share gear. It's a cool way to learn together and assist one another in photo shots. However do take note of the pro and cons/risks in doing so.

Now I need to stress on one point: when you get your first modifier, shoot as much as you can, try every single possible lighting scenario you can think of. Get to know the modifier's pro and cons. Shoot until you have run out of ideas or up to a point when you take out the modifier. You know actually what the image will be like in your mind. Once you got to this stage, you are ready to invest in another new light modifier. I adopt this motto from Zack Arias too. Yes, he is a very wise man.

Full manual or TTL?
I am sort of an “old school” guy. When I am at Lasalle, we used to trigger strobes via PC sync cable. If the setup has more than one strobe, we would set the secondary strobes to slave mode. Sometimes the slave mode strobes can't see the main flash, we would use cardboard, styrofoam, aluminum foil with tape to reflect light so the slave can see the main light. Good times we had during photography class: >

Going full manual meant that I have 100% control over what I want + I can learn from the mistakes I made since I'm the one making the call, not the camera. It is also a lot cheaper and simple to use. I am still using my cheap PT-04 (second generation) triggers bought 3 yrs back. You can basically used different brand of flashes and not to worry that it won't talk to one another.

TTL has advanced a lot these few years, like having the ability to control power output via camera, master flash or even a remote commander. Since I have not used TTL ever, I am not in a position to comment further on this.
 

Expensive gear = more chances in getting pro results/great photos for semi-pro or amateur photographers?
Personally I think owning pro gear is okay, as long as the photographer financially able to afford it. (Using credit card to pay 1st and worry later does not apply). It's understandable that pro photographer need special pro gear to meet special demands depending on his/her expertise.

Now do all full time photographers used pro gear? Well not really, I have two full time wedding photographer friends, whom till this day still use their Canon 40D bodies to shoot AD or engagement. Their do constantly been heckle by fellow colleagues why they don't upgrade to full frame or pro D bodies. The answer they give is quite simple, Canon 40D is a very capable camera and it satisfied their job usage in weddings which are almost 95% of their income source. Their clients are very happy with the photos taken by my friends (note:not the camera). If a commercial gig do come along, they will just rent the pro gear they need based on the nature of the paid gig. And btw, they also mention 40D is a very good excuse that they “can't do short candid videos” if a client's family member (very rarely though) requested it. LOL

Now for a strobist shooter, do you need pro flash gear like the Broncolor, Profoto or Elinchrom. Yes of course you can used anything you like as long as you can afford it, and justify that you will use it to the fullest and not let it be a white elephant sitting at one corner smiling at you.

Strobist term: A person who habitually uses Small, Hot-shoe Mountable Electronic Flashguns (or speedilights), off-camera to enhance the lighting quality of his or her photos. The off-camera flashgun is triggered by the camera using a sync cable or a wireless switch. (From Urban Dictionary). Theoretically speaking, pro level strobes doesn't quite blend with strobist in-term of meaning.

Do I buy original Canon/Nikon flashes for strobist? Yes and No? If you are a semi-pro or advance strobist and you shoot weddings AD or events occasionally, Yes, by all means go for it. If you are an amateur or newbie strobist who shoot simple portrait than the answer is NO, Original camera flash are awesome but expensive, because they are able to talk with your camera.

A used Canon 580EX said S$350 (just guessing), can let you buy a pair YN560 MKII, a simple trigger+2 receivers, 2 simple light stands and 2 light modifiers (generic brands). Now how about TTL/High speed sync, Yes and No also. Yes, if lots of your work involve athletes, sport persons, dancers where occasionally you need to freeze the subject. No if you just do this kind of shoot once or twice a year. High speed sync is cool but come at the expense of low power flash output. So if you have a group of 2 or more dancers jumping into the air at different distance, and you want all of them in focus than you have a problem.

What I am trying to say is there is no “One For All super flash, super light modifiers or super camera”. Each piece of gear have it's own pros and cons in-term of pricing, size, capability and etc. If a photographer bought a piece of gear, he/she must try his best to understand it's limits and work with it. Use at least more than ½ a year and shoot as many projects with it. If after all these, the photographer still found that this is not what he wanted. Obviously the photographer never do his homework thoroughly before investing in a piece of new/used gear. Remember, option of renting is always available.

For the past 2 yrs, I started to show my works to my family and friends, clients and models. I will never tell them what gear I use, frankly speaking they don't give a damn. And till now I have not met anyone who by looking at a printed photo or screen photo, able to tell that this is achieved by using pro gear a not. Ultimately just use what you own and make the best use out of it. This is how a photographer progress and grow, by solving or work around a problem.

Check out this cool blog post by Photographer David E Jackson, a very talented photographer and a friend of Zack Arias. Check out the awesome family photos he did for Zack Arias. It's kick ass.




How should I get started and improve my strobist skill and works?
I have not much useful experience to share but I think I will share with you guys how I started my journey in portrait photography. For people who have follow my thread since 2009 will see a pattern.

Step 01 - Practice photography skill with family members, love ones, friends and colleague. Keep shooting/practicing to gain confidence in communication and art directing. Don't expect you get to work with agency models when you bought your first trigger and strobist rig.

Step 02 - Assist friends who are experience shooter. I will tag along to assist not bringing any camera. Just me in person to assist (be a VAL, carry bags, taking light meter reading and etc) and see how he shoot/communicate/handle problems.

Step 03 - Buddy Photo shoots - I planned shoots and invite an experience photographer to be the main photographer and me as the second shooter. Important, you MUST let the model know about this and he/she is cool about it. Good thing is you learn from the photographer and if I screw up that shoot and only have a few okay photos. At least the models will have some good ones for portfolio from my friend.

Step 04 - When I am confident to shoot SOLO. I started indoor (shoot at home, moved heavy furnitures if you must) When in a control environment, I no need to worry about weather, nosy bystanders, mosquito and etc. And if a model play me out, At least the damage is minimum. Normally I will ask models who I have work with before in one of the buddy photo shoots. Since the models knew me and if she trust me, most likely she is cool to do a shoot at a HDB home. For new models I never work before, I will make sure I have a female assistant from start till end of the shoot. This is to safe guard both parties and the female model will feel more comfortable.

If your home not convenient as you have noisy kids, parents who kept asking you whether the model is your girlfriend? Than you may have to consider renting a studio, however... if a model play you out, that is nothing much you can do.

Oh btw, sometime model will request that she will bring a companion. Whether you are cool with it, its your call. It never happen to me before, it can be a good or bad thing.

Step 05 - Once I sort of have something “interesting” to show case what I have done. I start to invite other people that will further enhance my work. Make up artist are the first priority on the list. Now, when another creative people join me. It's no longer 100% my shoot, it's a collaboration between a group of people. And since it's for portfolio and not a paid gig. It's fair that the output of the shoot will benefit both parties and showcase their individual skills. This is a give and take situation.

Step 06 - Now, once I think I have muster enough confidence, it's time for me to take a big step. Outdoor shoot. Indoor photo shoot already hard to plan. Outdoor shoot is a logistic nightmare. I have to take care of location recce, transport, wardrobe, camera equipments, shoot schedule, getting everyone together on a date where all are free and many more. It's tons of hard work but if a photographer does pull it off. He/she will learnt a lot from it. The experience you gain is 2x more than doing indoor shoot.

That's about it, took me 5 years to get here. If I am running IPPT 2.4KM, I think I only cover 100m or so. I'm getting very lazy... Got to push myself to shoot more. Before I sign off and go to sleep. Check out the videos below, hope if will inspire you to shoot more.

Photographer Von Wong - BTS Superbowl Leather Designer meet Von Wong
(Show all the common challenges a photographer will face in an outdoor shoot, curious bystanders included)

Phlearn - BTS Light My Fire
(Photographer Aaron Nace share detailed insight on lights setup, working with model and MUA. Warning partial nudity)

FrameShow - The Fashion shoot Experience, The Producer

FrameShow - The Fashion shoot Experience, The Make Up Artist

FrameShow - The Fashion shoot Experience, The Model

(Ever wonder how hard to get a shoot to happen, check this out. Now you will know what I meant)

 

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It's a bird? No! it's plane? No! It's a super clamp!

Well... it can't fly, doesn't have super strength and etc. It is just a simple tool which clamps thingy. Despite its simple function, this is definitely a SUPER must-have in your strobist secret arsenal or whatever you call it.

So what can a stationery clamp do when it come to strobist? Besides the reflector holder rig, you can use these to fasten your radio/optic triggers to light stand. Keep sync/power cables from tangling, clamp backdrop (use big clothespin if your roll is thick) and also clamp excess fabric so the dress seems more body-fitting for slender models. One of my friends even ingeniously hot-glue a 7.5m measuring tape base to a big stationery clamp and uses it as a retractable cordon tape for photo shoots.

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Hard to believe, I use these almost 99.99% of all my shoots so you can imagine how important and useful these SUPER clamps are. So if you don't have these, it's time you do. It will save your ass big time. And if you already have these SUPER clamps, and you also have other super cool usage tips, please do share with us.

 

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SUNPAK 120J is one of the venerable AA battery flash among the classics like the reliable Nikon old SB20 series, the Vivitar 283/85 and a few more others. Although 120J to me is the best flash ever made for strobist, it does have its drawback.

First, it has been discontinued since early 2000, so now it is almost impossible to find a new one. Second the lowest power setting is 1/16 which is okay but having one or two more stop lower will be much cooler. Third, it eats batteries rapidly like a hungry T-Rex if you fire full power all the way. Fourth there is no additional modifier accessories for the 120J. Fifth the original SUNPAK's reflector is very malleable? It tends to dent or deform easily. So it is no surprise that some 120J bodies on the used market look fairly good condition but the reflector looks so battle-hardened like it has gone through 2 world wars.

Now for the 1st - 3rd drawbacks, the SUNPAK 120J owners have to suck it up and just move on. But for the 4th and 5th, there are actually solutions to it. For flash strobe companies like Bowen, Profoto and Broncolor, they each have it's own unique mount design and is not interchangeable with one another. The SUNPAK 120J on the other hand does not have a name for its mount even when you check through the manual. The 120J uses a simple hose clamp design to lock the reflector. To make thing easy I am going to call it the hose-clamp mount. So what if your 120J's reflector is dented or lost during a photo shoot? No worries, you can actually find alternative replacement quite easily. And the best part is special reflectors from these barebulb strobe and flash can also be used on the120J.


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Original Sunpak 120J Reflector, Godox AD flash Reflector, Godox AD Protection Cap

Godox AD180/360 is a great portable battery pack powered flash, it's design seems to base on the well-known Quantum Qflash X2 which was very popular with the pro in US since late 80s. I bought these Godox AD accessories from Hong Kong last year when I was on holiday. I am pleasantly surprised to find out that its standard reflector and the protection cap fit very well with my 120j lot. I am particularly impressed that Godox actually thought of making a protection cap for its AD. Kudos to the Godox product design team. If you are looking for accessories for your 120J, you can consider their snoot and color gels with reflector grid. As for the wide angle diffuser, I am not very sure whether this modifier is useful or not. For their beauty dish with grid and the Multi Softbox I need to say that the much smaller body 120J may not be a good combi. Just my personal opinion, like I mentioned - these modifier are built based on their much bigger and heavier AD flashes. FYI, their AD180 (not AD360) flash bulb will also work with 120J.


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Norman 200B Reflector, Norman 200B/400B Telephoto Reflector

For people looking for a bargain and don't mind second hand items, reflectors from the Norman 200B/200C/400B will fit with 120J. Do take note, the Norman's reflectors does not have the two U slots at it's neck so it will not fit all the way in the 120J. A big issue? No, I used it on a number of photo shoots, so it's not a problem for me. Maybe the light spread may just a bit less wide, compared to the 120J's original reflector. Now Norman has a Telephoto reflector, which is a piece of interesting light modifier. It behaves a bit like Parabolic umbrella. Some nature photographers use this to photograph wild animals which they throw light from a distance. Note you will need a Norman spacer for it to be 100% efficient in increasing light power by 1 or 2 stop. Yes, if you are wondering. Flash bulbs for 200B/200C (not 400B) will work with 120J.

For the Quantum Qflash T2/X2, the reflector does fit 120J but just barely. The reflector's neck seem a bit narrower and it seems to rub the glass of the flash bulb a bit when you try to insert in. I verified this in person when I borrowed the original X2 reflector. If you are thinking of buying a new reflector meant for new Qflash T5/X5, it is likely possible to fit as I think their reflector should be backward compatible with the very old T2/X2 models. Interestingly the Quantum X and T series also have an cool reflector. It is the Bare Bulb Enhancer Gold and Silver. This plain looking reflector can enhance light by 1 or 2 stop and I think it's great for high key background. Lastly Lumedyne series also have a similar reflector, and on eBay some sellers do claimed that Norman and Lumedyne are interchangeable. I can't verify this though, but I think is highly plausible.

Btw, the movie John Wick is wicked awesome entertaining and refreshing to watch. It got me excited and inspired. Polaroid Gals 5 will be happening soon. Stay tuned.

 

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A Teaser Pic from Polaroid Gal #5 shoot. Two lights, stay tuned for more updates on the detailed setup :D

Note: If you see any missing link images, please just refresh the page. (May take a few times to reload the images)​
 

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