What I was trying to find out was how RiStaR exposed his images... usually in a single exposure, and with very high contrast (that is very bright parts of the image (highlights) and very dark parts of the image (shadows)), you have to expose for the highlights or for the shadows. You can't expose for both cos the camera sensor isn't like the human eye... there is a limit to how much information it can collect... so if you expose for the highlights, the shadows (dark parts) tend to be totally black - there's no detail... but if you expose for the shadows, the highlights (bright parts) tend to be totally white - there's no detail. So short doing a HDR (stacking a few shots exposing for different parts of highlights and shadows), we could try to expose for the shadows as much as possible but not such that the highlights are totally white without any detail (or what is commonly termed as information). Once that shot is taken, it can be edited in Photoshop. Photoshop has a tool called Shadows/Highlights. You can slide the Highlights slider to the right and it will try to recover as much of the highlights (which are totally white or almost white) and restore some of the detail that is hidden under the whiteness... these type of highlights are called blown highlights (you blew away the details). So the tricky bit is how to find the balance where the shadows are exposed sufficiently for the detail but the highlights are not completely blown...
This is an issue mainly for very high contrast situations... e.g. shooting someone's face when the sun is shining directly at you into your lens - in such a case, the person you're shooting will look totally black, while the background will probably be well-exposed as your camera will probably expose for the larger and brighter background... so if you start to expose for the face only (via manual metering or exposure locking), then the background in your shot will look totally white or almost totally white... which looks super ugly and pretty useless cos you haven't captured the background as you wished... hence the need to balance exposing so that the face is not totally black, and the sky not totally white...
Hope this helps you along...
Just to add on, as much as I like the camera I've found matrix metering to be completely a crapshoot. My camera is mostly in center or spot (spot's a bit hit-and-miss too but not too bad). The histogram is also a great help too bad it's not active when you're framing (or maybe I haven't figured out how to do that?). If it is active it'll be much easier to exposure-compensate or meter to the way you want it.