Some questions on S5 Pro

[Omega23]

What mode did you use in the s5pro when shooting with 24 f1.4? All my pictures taken with nano lenses seems a little too saturated.

The lenses for both pics are nano lenses.. first pic is from 70-200 VR2 nano... i am using Standard mode with 400% dynamic range

 

[greengoblin]

The lenses for both pics are nano lenses.. first pic is from 70-200 VR2 nano... i am using Standard mode with 400% dynamic range

Thanks!!! I give it a shot! I was using F2 then F1b with results not really to my liking

 

[tbong27]

Congrats and welcome to the S5 "club". My recommendations / suggestions as follows:

1. Shoot raw (plus JPEG if you wish). Sure, the raw files are huge and the jpeg files are generally excellent. But you will never know when you will shoot that A* photo (that might win you a competition or whatever) and when you do, you will want the raw file to get the very best out of that pix. You will also never know when you, or the camera, might make a mistake and, eg, produce "avatar" skin with blue tone etc. Always shoot raw for best results and for kiasu-ness.

2. Get a copy of Fuji's Hyper Utility software for raw conversion. A bit hard to find, but look for it. It is a slow software (unless you have a super-fast computer like one of my S5 user friends do) and quite a pain to use. But for really important pixs, it is worth the pain and the effort.

3. Eventually try to shoot in MANUAL mode. This takes confidence and getting used to. But the results will be more consistent, especially in difficult lighting situations. (It took me nearly two years to switch to fully manual and I still make mistakes, eg forget to change settings etc, but my image quality is now much more consistent, no more some bright some dark, some warm some cool, etc).

4. Join other S5 and Fuji shooters to share knowledge, experience and the joy of photography. You will find a group of us at the Esplanade Outdoor theatre (and sometimes Esplanade Concourse indoors) usually at the front row with long lenses (Nikon 70-300 or 80-400) - practically EVERY saturday evening. We learn a lot from each other, grew to become good buddies and have great fun. Do join us.

Thanks Richard

I shot in raw most of the time even when i was using my D70. Really helps with the white balance adjustments later on as well as salvaging details. But S5's raw is just soo darn big!! 200+ shots with a 8 gb card... might need a backup when i m going out for whole day trips. I m quite trigger happy. Sometimes you wont have the time to delete as you go. But not really a problem.

I actually looked for that software before but without much success. Will keep a look out for it. I heard its great for handling noise?

Manual. went thru the phase before. when i 1st started out using dslr. everything was taken using manual. Very slow when taking a shot. Normally use aperture priority mode now w exposure compensation to adjust a bit. How about manual white balance? Raw makes me kinda lazy going fully manual tho... but will try it soon!

OK. Will try and meet you guys soon. Saturdays I m usually occupied with the lady friend , I just moved here not long ago. Just have a 18 70 kit lens, 50mm lens w no tripod/flash. Maybe iso3200 all they way?

Nice Gundam Wing 0 model from Takashimaya toy fair. Love the Dynamic Range!! Edit the Lighting. C&C definitely welcomed.

 

[wheresmycheese]

Thanks Richard

I shot in raw most of the time even when i was using my D70. Really helps with the white balance adjustments later on as well as salvaging details. But S5's raw is just soo darn big!! 200+ shots with a 8 gb card... might need a backup when i m going out for whole day trips. I m quite trigger happy. Sometimes you wont have the time to delete as you go. But not really a problem.

I actually looked for that software before but without much success. Will keep a look out for it. I heard its great for handling noise?

Manual. went thru the phase before. when i 1st started out using dslr. everything was taken using manual. Very slow when taking a shot. Normally use aperture priority mode now w exposure compensation to adjust a bit. How about manual white balance? Raw makes me kinda lazy going fully manual tho... but will try it soon!

OK. Will try and meet you guys soon. Saturdays I m usually occupied with the lady friend , I just moved here not long ago. Just have a 18 70 kit lens, 50mm lens w no tripod/flash. Maybe iso3200 all they way?

Nice Gundam Wing 0 model from Takashimaya toy fair. Love the Dynamic Range!! Edit the Lighting. C&C definitely welcomed.

think your wb is off :bsmilie:

 

[tbong27]

Aiks...Too warm? can elaborate?

 

[RichardSeah]

OK. Will try and meet you guys soon. Saturdays I m usually occupied with the lady friend , I just moved here not long ago. Just have a 18 70 kit lens, 50mm lens w no tripod/flash. Maybe iso3200 all they way?

Errr... may need a longer lens for Esplanade stage shots. Most of us use 70-300 or 80-400. However, many others use wide angle lenses and they end up shooting the stage rather than the PEOPLE on the stage.

No need flash / tripod and yes, ISO 1600 to 3200 all the way, no problems. If noisy use Fuji Hyper Utility or even Studio Utility (the free software that comes with camera, if don't have PM me) good enough.

End June there s Kids Festival at Esplanade, try to make it the kids are really good and professional, view my pixs of the 2008 festival here.

BTW: Your pix a bit busy, background very distracting hard to make out what the subject is.

Cheers

 

[RichardSeah]

Thanks Richard

I shot in raw most of the time even when i was using my D70. Really helps with the white balance adjustments later on as well as salvaging details. But S5's raw is just soo darn big!! 200+ shots with a 8 gb card...

You should be able to just slightly over 300 pixs on 8GB card shooting RAW only, vs RAW + JPEG. If you shoot at high ISO above 1250, eg night / stage shots, file size is about half and can get approx 600 shots. I have one 8 GB plus 2 x 4 GB so far more than enough.

 

[tbong27]

Ah alright. I dont think i have the studio utility software...

It was taken at a toy fair and more of a snap and go, the glass cabinet didnt help... but good that you pointed that out...Probably theres an optimal angle somewhere...

Sure. I'll try and make it to the fair. Now abt a longer lens... Hum...

 

[slth123]

Anybody noticed that when you changed the mode from STD to F1a/b/ or F2, the filename in the CF card changes?

Is there anyway to change it?

Here is my contribution for my S5Pro with Tamron 200-500mm on bird photography:

Sometimes i notice the file name has a _ in front but i didn't take note what settings i changed.

We have the same lens! :bsmilie:

here's something from me:

my shutter wasn't fast enough though, that's why the head not very clear :embrass:

the sky wasn't fantastic, but i like the view

 

[sleepyhong]

Sometimes i notice the file name has a _ in front but i didn't take note what settings i changed.

We have the same lens! :bsmilie:

That's the problem. I have a lot of problem sorting my files with all these filename difference.

for the bird, motion blur kills the picture. The details are lost.

good capture with the scenic shot. That's a wide angle lens?

 

[slth123]

That's the problem. I have a lot of problem sorting my files with all these filename difference.

for the bird, motion blur kills the picture. The details are lost.

good capture with the scenic shot. That's a wide angle lens?

gotta try shooting it again someday...

yes, the 2nd pic was shot at 10mm

 

[slth123]

That's the problem. I have a lot of problem sorting my files with all these filename difference.

I think I found out why: _ in front is due to using aRGB. If you shoot both aRGB and sRGB, the sorting of your image files will be off. Other than sticking to one color type, I think nothing much can be done. luckily not a serious problem ;p

 

[sleepyhong]

I think I found out why: _ in front is due to using aRGB. If you shoot both aRGB and sRGB, the sorting of your image files will be off. Other than sticking to one color type, I think nothing much can be done. luckily not a serious problem ;p

I kinda figured it out as well... which one is recommended for S5 Pro users for nature shots? aRGB or sRGB?

 

[slth123]

I kinda figured it out as well... which one is recommended for S5 Pro users for nature shots? aRGB or sRGB?

Ideally, the wider the color gamut the better but internet mostly use sRGB so it shouldn't make too much difference if pics are for posting on the web. if u shoot aRGB, then there is an additional step of converting to sRGB otherwise the pics will look pale to others.

 

[trueb1ue]

Sometimes i notice the file name has a _ in front but i didn't take note what settings i changed.

We have the same lens! :bsmilie:

here's something from me:

my shutter wasn't fast enough though, that's why the head not very clear :embrass:

the sky wasn't fantastic, but i like the view

where u take this pic from? very nice leh

 

[chris3210]

Not that I am a hardcore user. I use it only for images that are important - because Hyper Utility is a bit of a pain to use - and sometimes just to see how it compares with other software.



This is a noisy image processed with Lightroom:

And now the same image processed with Hyper Utility:

Hi is the upper image processed with older version of Lightroom? I know the Lightroom 3 has much better noise reduction method, have you compared it with Hyper Utility? Looking forward to your comparison as I don't have HU to test out...

 

[RichardSeah]

Hi is the upper image processed with older version of Lightroom? I know the Lightroom 3 has much better noise reduction method, have you compared it with Hyper Utility? Looking forward to your comparison as I don't have HU to test out...

Yes, this was using Lightloom 2.5 and yes, Lightloom 3 has better noise reduction... among other reasons Lightloom 3 images are darker, so cannot see the noise so well :kok:

Will do a comparison and update. But I have seen comparisons in other forums and Fuji software still better overall, especially in terms of colour rendition. The thing is, if you don't compare the LR images are ok. Once you compare, you see Fuji images are superior, especially those taken in difficult lighting conditions the difference is very big.

 

[slth123]

where u take this pic from? very nice leh

thanks, which one r u referring to? actually, quite easy to guess.

Yes, this was using Lightloom 2.5 and yes, Lightloom 3 has better noise reduction... among other reasons Lightloom 3 images are darker, so cannot see the noise so well :kok:

Will do a comparison and update. But I have seen comparisons in other forums and Fuji software still better overall, especially in terms of colour rendition. The thing is, if you don't compare the LR images are ok. Once you compare, you see Fuji images are superior, especially those taken in difficult lighting conditions the difference is very big.

i recently found a free raw converter UFRaw, pretty fast and seems to be able to retain Fuji's color (was quite surprised by it) but haven't got time to fully examine the IQ difference compared to Fuji's converter.

 

[RichardSeah]

thanks, which one r u referring to? actually, quite easy to guess.


i recently found a free raw converter UFRaw, pretty fast and seems to be able to retain Fuji's color (was quite surprised by it) but haven't got time to fully examine the IQ difference compared to Fuji's converter.

Hey thanks for the alert. Must check this out. UFRaw?

Meanwhile, I downloaded a trial version of LR3 today and yes, the noise control is very very much improved. But Fuji colours still better. Will update soon with the earlier violinist pix, altho that is only b/w and so only shows the noise level.

 

[RichardSeah]

Hey thanks for the alert. Must check this out. UFRaw?

Alamak! Looks complicated leh... So many different versions to choose from? And it is intended for use with GIMP, which I don't have. If use as standalone how? After that still need Lightroom or Photoshop or whatever? Hmmmm... maybe ask my friend to be guinea pig first, ha ha!

Thanks all the same :thumbsup: