oh yes, that's what I like about my HD600. you can wear it for hours without feeling your head is in a vice (but like I said, must run in for some time first), and you can turn up the volume to hear the details but will not give you aural fatique.
Sennheiser Headphones
- Thread starter Slivester
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Did you clear your earwax? Are the headphones properly "burnt-in"? How about your source? Keep in mind that Grado headphones can reveal a bad source without mercy. Try your friend's SR80 on a Sony Discman and you will know what I meant.afbug said:
BTW, I have both the SR80 and RS1. Yes, I agree with you that Grado headphones can be uncomfortable to wear compared to higher-end Sennheisers, but I don't agree with your comments about its sound. I have been listening to Grado headphones for about 10 years now, and I find your statement untrue.
photobum said:
I tried them on a ipod, Discman and a NAD CD player which should add some warmth to it but still they dun cut it for me. I dun find them uncomfortable to wear at all. In fact, i find them comfortable. Its the sound thats dun suit me. The MS1 is more balanced than a SR80 and even so, its a little too rough for my liking.
If my ears are clogged with earwax, how on earth i heard the piercing highs? You can disagree with me about its sound and i'm not going to convince you anything but just to let you know that Grados are not the best and they dun fit/suit everyone.
You can listen to Grados for 100 years, and so on but it doesn't make them the best or change my opinion and tastes.
NAD CD player, maybe (because I am using a NAD player too). But ipod (most MP3s can sound constrained, thus lacking soundstage) and Discman can sound bright. Also, you must use a headphone amp to reveal its potential. I suggest using Headroom amps. I got mine from the US.afbug said:
photobum said:
Thanks for trying to convince me about Grados but currently, they dun suit me. If i will to buy a top end Grado, it will probably be a Alessandro.
About Headroom amps, which one you're using? I'm thought of getting one. Maybe a micro desktop.
Here's my headphone amp 
:
Even though this prototype does not use any high grade components (besides the amplifier chip itself) it can already greatly enhance the sound quality on my Sennheiser HD580 and Etymotic ER6i, playing from my Creative Zen Xtra MP3 player. There is much better transients with deeper and tighter bass, and with noticeably more detail and less harsh sound, compared with driving the headphones directly from the player.
The op-amps used are TI (Bur Brown) OPA2350. Even though the rated supply voltage is 2.5V minimum, I had no problem running them from a single AA battery (1.5V) and driving the higher impedance HD580 to a comfortably loud level. So far I have managed to squeeze more than 5 hours of operation from the single AA alkaline shown in the picture, and the battery voltage is still at a healthy 1.52V (fresh alkalines start at 1.6V).
The breadboard version does have noticable hiss during silent passages, which I think can be reduced on a properly laid out PCB and using higher grade resistors and capacitors.
If you are interested to try DIYing this amp PM me and I can give you more details.
Here's an example of how small the amplifier can be:
And here's a picture of my unfinished project, a portable battery powered headphone amp assembled in a mini Altoid mint chewing gum case:
:
Even though this prototype does not use any high grade components (besides the amplifier chip itself) it can already greatly enhance the sound quality on my Sennheiser HD580 and Etymotic ER6i, playing from my Creative Zen Xtra MP3 player. There is much better transients with deeper and tighter bass, and with noticeably more detail and less harsh sound, compared with driving the headphones directly from the player.
The op-amps used are TI (Bur Brown) OPA2350. Even though the rated supply voltage is 2.5V minimum, I had no problem running them from a single AA battery (1.5V) and driving the higher impedance HD580 to a comfortably loud level. So far I have managed to squeeze more than 5 hours of operation from the single AA alkaline shown in the picture, and the battery voltage is still at a healthy 1.52V (fresh alkalines start at 1.6V).
The breadboard version does have noticable hiss during silent passages, which I think can be reduced on a properly laid out PCB and using higher grade resistors and capacitors.
If you are interested to try DIYing this amp PM me and I can give you more details.
Here's an example of how small the amplifier can be:
And here's a picture of my unfinished project, a portable battery powered headphone amp assembled in a mini Altoid mint chewing gum case:
I am using the Headroom Blockhead (a balanced headphone amp). I bought it about six years ago, I think it was discountinued. If I remember correctly, Max is the replacement model for Blockhead.afbug said:
The stock Grado cable was also replaced with balanced Cardas Audio cable with XLR termination, instead of the usual 1/4" plug. The balanced output contributes to a cleaner and tigher sound.
Another great headphone to consider is the BeyerDynamic DT880.
kelccm said:
yeah, so true. You will need a separate headphone amp.
HD600 + Musical Fidelity X-Can is music heaven :thumbsup: !!!!
afbug said:
Try listening to the Grado RS-1 or my favourite: Joseph Grado HP1000 Signature Series HP-1's.
The RS-1, HP-1/2/3 & SR-225 are the more neutral sounding of the Grado series.
The SR-60/ 80/ 125/ 325/ 325i carry a tinge of roughness and brightness with them. The worst being the SR-325 non-i version.
OTOH, you're probably the type who likes very mellow, dark sounding cans.. Then the Sennheiser HD-6X0 series will suit you very well. Doubt you wanna touch the HD570/ 590 since their sonic signature is different from all the other Senn headphones.
afbug said:
For a more neutral sounding headamp, try the Meier Audio Corda series. If you want tubes, the Spark is pretty good too.
If you like tubes, the Bernings Micro-ZOTL is a very nice tube headamp. Easily the most dynamic tube based headamp.
For something to add an incredible amount of brightness, the Musical Fidelity X-cans V2.
For something warmish, go for the Creek OBH-11(SE) or OBH-22(SE).
There are others like the Consonance which I can't recommend due to quality issues.
Slivester said:
The Spark is close to S$450. Same goes for the X-Cans V2. V3 should be closer to S$600, last I checked.
The Creeks are anywhere between S$300 to S$500 depending on the model.
Corda amps are no longer available locally but you can get a 2nd hand set if you see one on sale. If you buy from Meier Audio direct, it's about S$600 for the cheapest set.
Bernings Micro-ZOTL is approx. S$1k.
OMG! Just realized that I left out one of the better contenders.
The Grado RA-1 amplifier @ S$400++. Fairly neutral sounding and a pretty good amplifier. Does have slight issues where the volume control unit has imbalances at lower volumes.
Firefox said:
I have been reading about Creeks everywhere. Are any of the above-mentioned portable enough for street use?
Slivester said:
Don't bother with the Creeks.. Seriously..
Every single amp I listed, I've tried. And that list doesn't include the Dynahi (US$700++ diy amp)
None of the above are meant for street use.
For portable use, you can try the Headroom Airhead's (not very good set), Dr Amp (never actually tried this) and the Meier Audio Porta Corda (Good sounding but only available online).
I'm recommending the Dr Amp Headamp blind only because it's portable. I've never tried it personally but based on the circuit design*, I'd dare say, it'll sound decent.
*- I used to design and build headphone amplifiers.
Yeah, rather foolish me to think to bring an amp to street. Does most audio store allows on-site testing?
Firefox said:Interesting signature.. I only understand the first line though..
Haha, Sprechen Sie Deutsch?
just got a HD201 yesterday. man.
currently have a HD477 collecting dust. anyone knows how much it costs to replace the cable?
thanks.
currently have a HD477 collecting dust. anyone knows how much it costs to replace the cable?
thanks.
cost me $35 to replace the cable on the HD600, so HD477 should be around there too. cost a lot more to replace the sponge pads than the cable!
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