S6500fd owners - share your pixs here

[Clockunder]

A few more pictures taken on the same day (12 Jan Saturday) as above (#16 and #17 were taken at ISO 400 while #18 and #19 at ISO 800 ):

#16 at ISO 400 during 4pm show

#17 at ISO 400

#18 ISO 800

#19 ISO 800

 

[RinaChan]

http://album.blog.yam.com/album.php?userid=flyingfox74&folder=3370786
Mine again =P ,these all taken using S6500fd =P

 

[Clockunder]

Mine again =P , taken yesterday

Can't see your picture with firefox browser.

I switched to using Internet explorer and got :

錯誤

欲連結之網址（URL）無法正確的傳回

當嘗試傳回下面的網址（URL）時： http://pics1.blog.yam.com/8/userfile/f/flyingfox74/album/1478de8e2d9fdb.jpg
發生了下列的錯誤：

• Access Denied.
• 存取被拒絕 Access control configuration prevents your request from being allowed at this time. Please contact your service provider if you feel this is incorrect.
  欲連結之網站的存取控制設定目前禁止了您的連線要求，如果您覺得得到這樣的訊息並不正確，請與提供網路服務的管理者聯繫。

However I managed to see the picture when I clicked onto the link in the message above :
http://pics1.blog.yam.com/8/userfile/f/flyingfox74/album/1478de8e2d9fdb.jpg

 

[RinaChan]

fit already =P

 

[Akino]

Jelly Fish

 

[wiLLy-LucifeR]

Sunrise. =]

 

[TOKARA]

i really enjoy the photos you guys posted here and i guessed i have to do my fair share of posting as well

Bugis Street

 

[TOKARA]

one more on a mosque

 

[hk1612008]

Hi,do you guy notice that some white dots appear in the image when using fast shutter speed like 1/30s ~ 1/500s or faster,but when using 1/25s ~ 5s or slower is ok.Last 3 weeks i noticed that my all images has a white dot at a same area(i used the lens cap to cover the lens and shoot it in manaul mode),sent to service center and the service technician told that this is something like HOT PIXELS issue and is normal for all digital camera but anyway they changed a CCD for me,after changed the CCD,now become worse,7 or 8 dots,called them again and they gave the same answer,the service tech told me the only solution is use the photoshop to edit:angry:,i remembered my previous Canon A75 had this issue also and they told me is normal for digital camera but the service center will calibrate for me free:thumbsup:,but why Fuji said can not do anything?This issue is not noticeable in day time but very noticeable in shooting moon,should i bring back for service or just leave it?Thanks!
The half moon is before CCD change

Full moon after CCD changed

 

[Clockunder]

Hi,do you guy notice that some white dots appear in the image when using fast shutter speed like 1/30s ~ 1/500s or faster,but when using 1/25s ~ 5s or slower is ok.Last 3 weeks i noticed that my all images has a white dot at a same area(i used the lens cap to cover the lens and shoot it in manaul mode),sent to service center and the service technician told that this is something like HOT PIXELS issue and is normal for all digital camera but anyway they changed a CCD for me,after changed the CCD,now become worse,7 or 8 dots,called them again and they gave the same answer,the service tech told me the only solution is use the photoshop to edit:angry:,i remembered my previous Canon A75 had this issue also and they told me is normal for digital camera but the service center will calibrate for me free:thumbsup:,but why Fuji said can not do anything?This issue is not noticeable in day time but very noticeable in shooting moon,should i bring back for service or just leave it?Thanks!
The half moon is before CCD change

Full moon after CCD changed

There is a difference between dead/stuck pixels and hot pixels.

Dead/stuck pixels are there regardless of shutter speed.

Hot pixels only appear when the shutter speed is very long or when the CCD is warm (usually after taking quite a number of shots successively).

Both are common.

Dead/stuck pixels need to be fixed if it's bothering you and if camera is still under warranty. All CCDs have dead/stuck pixels and the question is whether these pixels are "mapped" by the camera's algorithm to avoid using the values recorded by those pixels and instead replace their values with values derived from adjacent pixels. Before the camera leaves the factory, dead/stuck pixels are mapped. However, over time, new dead/stuck pixels will develop as some electronics fail.

Hot pixels are normal and can be expected whenever the shutter speed is long (e.g. more than 1 second) and when the camera is warm. So there is nothing to worry about except that you need to do some Noise reduction yourself. For most other camera brands, there is a "long exposure Noise Reduction" feature which can be turned on/off. It works by taking another frame of the shot with the shutter closed, thereby locating the hot pixels and then replace their values with those adjacent to them. My previous camera Nikon 5700 has this feature. However, S6500fd doesn't have it.

 

[Clockunder]

Some pictures taken last Saturday :

http://forums.clubsnap.com/showthread.php?t=346053

Taken : 19 Jan 2008 (Last Saturday).

No. of pictures : 15 (shot at ISO 400 and 800).

Didn't have the mood to post-process until yesterday. Have had some problems removing the over-yellowish white balance which is inevitable whenever the built-in flash is used, regardless of the WB used.

Critiques are welcome.

#1

#2

#3

#4

#5

 

[Clockunder]

#6

#7

#8

#9

#10

 

[Clockunder]

#11

#12

#13

#14

#15

 

[jamesoyl]

Some pictures taken at HortPark..Critiques are welcome^^
http://jamesoyl.multiply.com/photos/album/6/HortPark_19012008#

 

[hk1612008]

There is a difference between dead/stuck pixels and hot pixels.

Dead/stuck pixels are there regardless of shutter speed.

Hot pixels only appear when the shutter speed is very long or when the CCD is warm (usually after taking quite a number of shots successively).

Both are common.

Dead/stuck pixels need to be fixed if it's bothering you and if camera is still under warranty. All CCDs have dead/stuck pixels and the question is whether these pixels are "mapped" by the camera's algorithm to avoid using the values recorded by those pixels and instead replace their values with values derived from adjacent pixels. Before the camera leaves the factory, dead/stuck pixels are mapped. However, over time, new dead/stuck pixels will develop as some electronics fail.

Hot pixels are normal and can be expected whenever the shutter speed is long (e.g. more than 1 second) and when the camera is warm. So there is nothing to worry about except that you need to do some Noise reduction yourself. For most other camera brands, there is a "long exposure Noise Reduction" feature which can be turned on/off. It works by taking another frame of the shot with the shutter closed, thereby locating the hot pixels and then replace their values with those adjacent to them. My previous camera Nikon 5700 has this feature. However, S6500fd doesn't have it.

Hi Clockunder,thanks for your info,just brought the camera to the service center and ask them any method to reduce the dead pixel or is it possible to change back the previous CCD but they gave the same answer "can not do anything",no choice lah.

 

[Clockunder]

Hi Clockunder,thanks for your info,just brought the camera to the service center and ask them any method to reduce the dead pixel or is it possible to change back the previous CCD but they gave the same answer "can not do anything",no choice lah.

It's common that you see a few bright pixels still remaining for night shots.

However, they are not obvious unless they're among a huge patch of dark area (such as the dark sky). In this case, use editing software to clone them out ......... in photoshop, use spot healing.

Since they're not visible for day shots and also just a few, and also probably not visible in small prints (4R), then they should be ok.

 

[Clockunder]

Some pictures taken at HortPark..Critiques are welcome^^
http://jamesoyl.multiply.com/photos/album/6/HortPark_19012008#

One thing I don't like about the S6500fd is its minimum shooting distance of 90cm when using max zoom in Macro mode.

Although it can shoot as near as 1cm when in Super Macro mode (only available at the shortest/widest focal length), the field of view is too wide that the background will include many distracting elements. ......as can be seen in your pictures.

Usually, for macro shoots, it's better to shoot with a longer focal length to have a narrow field of view so that distracting elements are excluded from the background as much as possible. But the minimum shooting distance is 90cm for max zoom and the small flower/insect will therefore not appear big within the frame and many unwanted distracting elements around flower/insect will be included within the frame. This is bad.

Here are a couple of flower pictures which I took last Saturday indoor at Raffles City. I didn't bring any tripod as I had no prior intention to shoot any close-ups and so I used the shortest focal length to avoid any handshake blur. Since they are shot at very near distance, a lot of details in the flower are captured and the resolution is high. However, in Super Macro mode, the background is very messy as the field of view is too wide and the out-of-focus objects are very distinct and distracting even though I've already cropped the picture and blurred the background further in post-processing.

 

[TOKARA]

 

[vincecarlo]

very interesting shot, can't realli make out what it ia. Is that a bulb filament in the middle?

 

[vincecarlo]

#11

nice shot:thumbsup:

what setting did you use to freeze thsi shot in low light? not much noise