S6500fd owners - share your pixs here


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thank you for your comments

Actually these are the nicer photos I have taken and there are actually alot of lousy ones...

Still have problems choosing the right aperture/shutter speed/iso settings for the right exposure. Just a noobie and hope to learn alot more for you guys :D

For a start, focus on the composition of the picture and the let the camera do the rest; that what I'll do. The S6500fd is quite intelligent. Either use Natural light or the scene mode, works most of the time ;)
 

This was shot at ISO 800 : Entitled : Marriage is so distant for me

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Below : I pushed the camera a little further and shot ISO 1600 (noise reduction by Noise Ninja during post-processing)
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For a start, focus on the composition of the picture and the let the camera do the rest; that what I'll do. The S6500fd is quite intelligent. Either use Natural light or the scene mode, works most of the time ;)

Hi Vince,

How do u find the Natural mode for indoor shots? i find them quite grainy...prefer to use the Programmed mode for indoors and tweak the ISO. What you think?
 

Hi Vince,

How do u find the Natural mode for indoor shots? i find them quite grainy...prefer to use the Programmed mode for indoors and tweak the ISO. What you think?

This is my typical settings, the SW of most modern cam is very good, works 95% of time unless major lighting contrast.

Outdoor : Natural light
Indoor : Party mode, Natural light with Flash
Gals & babes : Portrait mode

If grain is a concern, just keep ISO to 400 or below.

I prefer some graininess than movement blur, ISO 800 is 'almost' acceptable;p
 

This is my typical settings, the SW of most modern cam is very good, works 95% of time unless major lighting contrast.

Outdoor : Natural light
Indoor : Party mode, Natural light with Flash
Gals & babes : Portrait mode

If grain is a concern, just keep ISO to 400 or below.

I prefer some graininess than movement blur, ISO 800 is 'almost' acceptable;p


When you all taking landscape or objects with sky as background, how do you all make the sky nice and blue?

What I do is focus lock on the sky first, the sky will correct the exposure and make the sky darker (blueish). This is my noobish way but realised it doesnt work all the time and the object may not be in focus.

Happy new year to all the people in this forum anyway! :;)
 

1) Went to Countdown at Marina Bay :

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2) First shot : (Framing was too low. Didn't expect the fireworks to be so high)
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3) One of the most important consideration when taking fireworks is wind direction. When I was waiting there, I already noticed that the wind was blowing directly towards my location but I thought to myself : "Do I have a choice for another location?". My answer was no. Everywhere was so crowded and this was the only place where I could still have a view from the front. I was at the Merlion area earlier to catch the atmosphere at around 10+pm but the front row of the Esplanade bridge was already fully occupied. I'm not willing to start camping at 6pm -7pm for 5-6 hours just for that 8 minutes of fireworks. So, there what I got was extremely smokey fireworks which I can't get ride of the smokes without darking the fireworks too much :

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4) At UOB centre after the fireworks
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Nice job :thumbsup:

I like #2, pity the top is a little crop off else it would have been perfect ;)

Thanks.

Actually I took a few shots of the scene before the fireworks so that I could use them for stacking layers in post-processing to get a nice background and reduce the smokes.

However, the framing was (as in the first picture ..........where the original picture was cropped on the bottom and left to get the right composition) too low.

After that first shot, I had to reframe the whole scene for subsequent fireworks shots and as a result, my pre-fireworks shots could not be used for stacking already as the composition had been changed.

Taking some shots after the fireworks was also not feasible because the whole place was very smokey. (unless I patiently wait for the smokes to clear).
 

Hi Clockunder,

very nice pictures at the Church. Was wondering at full zoom, what aperture would u recommend for sharpness on 6500? Pardon me, a super duber newbie here.
 

Hi Clockunder,

very nice pictures at the Church. Was wondering at full zoom, what aperture would u recommend for sharpness on 6500? Pardon me, a super duber newbie here.

It depends.

Theoretically, lens is a little sharper when it's stopped down a little from the biggest aperture. At full zoom, biggest is F/4.9. So F/5.6-F/8 is theoretically good. However, I do not see any significant difference between F/4.9 and F/5.6 in the S6500fd.

If you're shooting something near or you need great Depth of field to ensure front and background are both sharp, then you would probably shoot at smaller aperture than F/5.6. (i.e. bigger F numbers).

However, theoretically, diffraction starts at apertures smaller than F/5.6 for the S6500fd and so try not to go beyond F/5.6 unless necessary (e.g. for greater DOF or slowing down the shutter speed).

Actually, the main problem with the S6500fd is its poor ability to achieve very accurate focus consistently under low light condition. The picture sometimes turns out not sharp even though the camera indicates focus was achieved and locked upon half pressing the shutter release button even when tripod is used.

In any case, all the pictures need some sharpening and changes in gamma/contrast in post-processing to achieve a better looking picture.
 

A picture taken a few months back.

Welcome to Clarke Quay.

The moon was shot separately and photoshopped into the picture.

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It depends.

Theoretically, lens is a little sharper when it's stopped down a little from the biggest aperture. At full zoom, biggest is F/4.9. So F/5.6-F/8 is theoretically good. However, I do not see any significant difference between F/4.9 and F/5.6 in the S6500fd.

If you're shooting something near or you need great Depth of field to ensure front and background are both sharp, then you would probably shoot at smaller aperture than F/5.6. (i.e. bigger F numbers).

However, theoretically, diffraction starts at apertures smaller than F/5.6 for the S6500fd and so try not to go beyond F/5.6 unless necessary (e.g. for greater DOF or slowing down the shutter speed).

Actually, the main problem with the S6500fd is its poor ability to achieve very accurate focus consistently under low light condition. The picture sometimes turns out not sharp even though the camera indicates focus was achieved and locked upon half pressing the shutter release button even when tripod is used.

In any case, all the pictures need some sharpening and changes in gamma/contrast in post-processing to achieve a better looking picture.

Bro I really amazed by your technical knowledge on photography... you have my deepest respect :heart:
 

Superb stuff there Clockunder...and thx for the info. Not only u shoot well...yer PS skills is jus as good!

Thumbs up!
 

Bro,
U brought out the best of S6500;)

Frankly, I didn't do much except getting to the "right" location to get the composition I wanted, set the camera as near to the usual "888" guideline for night scene landscape (ISO 80, F/8, 8 seconds) and snapped.

Then in post processing, darkened the shadows areas (especially the sky) by using exposure/gamma adjustement and increased a saturation a bit to make it more colourful.

For night scenes using long exposure, the sky (or any dark shadow areas) usually comes out too bright in the picture and is dark grey rather than black. So there is a need to adjust the gamma to pull the shadows towards the left side of the luminance histogram to make them more blackish.

Also slight sharpening is needed after downsizing for web viewing.
 

Bro I really amazed by your technical knowledge on photography... you have my deepest respect :heart:

I don't know much except some of the things which can help me in choosing a camera and taking pictures.
 

Superb stuff there Clockunder...and thx for the info. Not only u shoot well...yer PS skills is jus as good!

Thumbs up!

My PS skill is just basic stuff which are needed to make a picture appears nicer ......... usually revolves around just a few adjustments ....... cropping (to get the composition I want when the original picture is not as ideal due to circumstances or mistakes or misjudgement), exposure/gamma/contrast/brightness (by looking at the histogram), saturation, sharpening and borders.

I've read other PS techniques from various websites but I tend to forget them after some time because I don't practice them often (as there is no need or am too lazy/ is too cumbersome.)

Unlike the professionals in photography or graphic designs etc., hobbyists like me only shoot once in a while and only use photoshop may be once a month for some simple post-processing.
 

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