S6500fd owners - share your pixs here

[titan7x]

Hi,do you guy notice that some white dots appear in the image when using fast shutter speed like 1/30s ~ 1/500s or faster,but when using 1/25s ~ 5s or slower is ok.Last 3 weeks i noticed that my all images has a white dot at a same area(i used the lens cap to cover the lens and shoot it in manaul mode),sent to service center and the service technician told that this is something like HOT PIXELS issue and is normal for all digital camera but anyway they changed a CCD for me,after changed the CCD,now become worse,7 or 8 dots,called them again and they gave the same answer,the service tech told me the only solution is use the photoshop to edit:angry:,i remembered my previous Canon A75 had this issue also and they told me is normal for digital camera but the service center will calibrate for me free:thumbsup:,but why Fuji said can not do anything?This issue is not noticeable in day time but very noticeable in shooting moon,should i bring back for service or just leave it?Thanks!
The half moon is before CCD change

Full moon after CCD changed

Hi It is very common to spot these "strange pixel" in all digital cameras under some conditions and settings, and when viewed at 100% size in computer. Even DSLR have this limitation.
Most photographers lives with this, or at most use softwares such as photoshop to edit the spots.
These "spots" will not appears in most photo printing size such as 4R, 8R.

The service centre must have made a loss by changing it free for you. Be thankful.

 

[hk1612008]

Hi It is very common to spot these "strange pixel" in all digital cameras under some conditions and settings, and when viewed at 100% size in computer. Even DSLR have this limitation.
Most photographers lives with this, or at most use softwares such as photoshop to edit the spots.
These "spots" will not appears in most photo printing size such as 4R, 8R.

The service centre must have made a loss by changing it free for you. Be thankful.

Hi Titan7X,thanks for your info!

 

[Clockunder]

nice shot:thumbsup:

what setting did you use to freeze thsi shot in low light? not much noise

Looks like there is some problems at imageshack and some of my pictures above are not loading at this moment.

The settings of Pic #11 can be found in its EXIF (install opanda EXIF viewer onto your brower and right click on the picture to see) :

I knew I had to use really fast shutter speed (well above 1/500) and so I set my ISO to as high as I could tolerate 800 (not wanting to go ISO 1600) and used as big aperture as possible at that focal length on Aperture Priority. I then noticed that the shutter speed was around 1/1000 at that settings and so I used that to shoot the Shaolin monks.

So the shutter speed for Pic #11 turned out to be : 1/900.

Actually, noise is only much more apparent in shadows areas in the background as the signal to noise ratio is much higher there. I shot in jpeg and the in-camera processing seems to have reduce lots of details there as it reduces the noise. The spot light shone brightly on the monk and there is less noise problem there. Also it was very difficult to frame the fast action.

On the whole, the original picture wasn't very appealing. So I cropped the picture, selected and applied further noise reduction on the background and desaturated it.......to make the monk appears bigger in the frame and also stands out better.

Technically, capturing the fast actions of the shaolin monks nicely was the most demanding/difficult task for the whole shoot. For the non-action ones of Shaolin monks pictures above, I should have used a lower ISO but then I could not foretell what they were going to do next and therefore didn't adjust the ISO lower when they're stationary. During the shoot, I did try ISO 1600 to see what kind of shutter speed I could get to freeze their actions but changing the ISO on this camear was a little troublesome and I wished there was a command dial which I could set to adjust ISO directly on some occassions.

 

[Clockunder]

Hi It is very common to spot these "strange pixel" in all digital cameras under some conditions and settings, and when viewed at 100% size in computer. Even DSLR have this limitation.
Most photographers lives with this, or at most use softwares such as photoshop to edit the spots.
These "spots" will not appears in most photo printing size such as 4R, 8R.

The service centre must have made a loss by changing it free for you. Be thankful.

Suddenly it reminds me that if we're printing 4R with a cropped 3:2 aspect ratio picture from S6500fd, the resolution would be about 2800 x 1860 = 5.2 MP and the density would be around 460 PPI.

460 PPI = 180 Pixels per cm = 18 pixels per mm.

So a bright/dead pixel would not be visible in such small print.

In fact, our eyes won't be able to differentiate beyond 240-300 PPI.

8R would have about 230 PPI for a 5.2 MP picture.

 

[damnblur]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/yeojohnny/
just sharing :bsmilie:

 

[Clockunder]

Went to the Singapore Airshow 2008 on Thursday, 21 Feb. Not very crowded. Went with a friend who had the necessary car park label and there were still lots and lots of parking space at the venue when we arrived there at about 11.45am.

Shooting aircrafts high up in the sky really expose the inadequacy of a small sensor (1/1.7") and short actual focal length (only 66.7mm at the longest) of this camera. A DSLR with more than 300mm actual focal length is necessary to be able to capture lots of details on the aircrafts.

Nevertheless, here are some of my shots taken with this S6500fd.

A couple of static display shots. Noon time really isn't a good time to take photos : dynamic range between sky and shadows is too large. In addition, it wasn't a clear blue sky that day.
#1 Chinook

#2 F16

#3 F16s Black Knights of RSAF

#4

#5 The aircraft (F/A 18) is too small within the frame after severe cropping and any further cropping would be too pixelated already. so I duplicated another 2 planes into the frame using the healing tool.

 

[Clockunder]

#6 Korean Aerospace T-50

#7 F16

#8 A380

#9 Roulettes of RAAF

#10

 

[Clockunder]

#11

#12 Spectators were thrilled by the flying display

#13 A couple of obviously serious photographers. These are the equipment you would need to captures lots of details of planes which are far far away.

 

[vincecarlo]

Went to the Singapore Airshow 2008 on Thursday, 21 Feb. Not very crowded. Went with a friend who had the necessary car park label and there were still lots and lots of parking space at the venue when we arrived there at about 11.45am.

Shooting aircrafts high up in the sky really expose the inadequacy of a small sensor (1/1.7") and short actual focal length (only 66.7mm at the longest) of this camera. A DSLR with more than 300mm actual focal length is necessary to be able to capture lots of details on the aircrafts.

Nevertheless, here are some of my shots taken with this S6500fd.

A couple of static display shots. Noon time really isn't a good time to take photos : dynamic range between sky and shadows is too large. In addition, it wasn't a clear blue sky that day.

#3 F16s Black Knights of RSAF

You are DA S6500fd MAN, 3 thumbs up :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[Clockunder]

You are DA S6500fd MAN, 3 thumbs up :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Thanks.

Since the planes were usually too far away for any good picture shots, I took a few short videos of the flying display with this camera instead.

Here is one of them : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYIt8BDRP0M

 

[Clockunder]

Uploaded another 2 more videos of the Aerial display taken by this camera :

2) 26 seconds of Black Knights : (This one is more interesting)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKisqJqdg9c

3) 25 seconds of Korea Aerospace T-50 doing triple roll
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhYBb1V-ZZ8

 

[Clockunder]

Some pictures taken for Chingay Preview. All taken at ISO 800. Mostly taken without any zoom because zooming in (smaller aperture and also light of each area having to spread over a bigger surface area on sensor) would cause the shutter speed to be too slow to freeze movement.

#1

#2

#3 This shot wasn't well taken nor composed (the F1 Grand Prix car is almost running out of the frame already) but I find it interesting

#4

#5

 

[Clockunder]

#6

#7

#8

#9

#10

 

[vincecarlo]

Wonderful shots

You are definitely "THE S6500fd MAN" ;p

 

[Clockunder]

Wonderful shots

You are definitely "THE S6500fd MAN" ;p

Thanks.

Although my pictures of Chingay Preview 2008 were technically acceptable, they failed to capture the mood of the event as I wasn't close enough to the actions to capture the facial expressions of the performers.

At the place where I managed to find a front view, the performers were just passing by. I think the picture that managed to capture a bit of the mood is probably pic #8 where they came very close-by.

I went again on the actual Chingay day thinking of getting a better position to capture something more but it was too crowded and I couldn't even get any clear view from the 3rd row behind. Looks like I will have to start camping at 5pm (at least 3 hours before the start) next year to have any hope of capturing the mood. May be I would need a DSLR with the ability to produce acceptable ISO 2000 and above pictures.

 

[Clockunder]

Sentosa flowers 2008 - Tales of Spring (Saturation increased)

20 pictures can be found on this thread : http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=356063


Another 5 more :
#21

#22

#23 Heavily cropped as the minimum shooting distance of 90cm at 66.7mm prevented me from going closer and getting the flower big in the frame. Background is also kind of too bright and distracting. I should have tried to reduce the brightness of the background and smoothen it during post-processing.

#24

#25

 

[belgarathc]

How do you take such sharp photos!

Anyway, a few selected photos from my first overseas trip with S6500fd. All taken in non-manual mode.

Long boat ride to Sumatra, Indonesia

Shadowy monkeys in Taman Panaroma, Bukittinggi

Insect macro shot attempt in Taman Panaroma, Bukittinggi

Lake Maninjau (1)

Lake Maninjau (2)

 

[Clockunder]

How do you take such sharp photos!

Anyway, a few selected photos from my first overseas trip with S6500fd. All taken in non-manual mode.


Long boat ride to Sumatra, Indonesia


Shadowy monkeys in Taman Panaroma, Bukittinggi


Insect macro shot attempt in Taman Panaroma, Bukittinggi


Lake Maninjau (1)


Lake Maninjau (2)

Thanks for sharing your photos.

To have sharp photos :

1) correct/appropriate aperture .......... which affects Depth of field (DOF). If you want everything in the picture to be sharp, use small apertures such as F/5.6 or larger F number up to F/8-F/11. If you just want limited DOF, use the large aperture .......i.e. small F numbers such as F/2.8 up to F/4.
+
2) fast enough shutter speed .............. must be fast enough to freeze movement and also avoid handshake blur (usually must be faster than 1/focal length).
+
3) good light condition/weather (if outdoor, haze/UV light and light intensity affects tonal and colour contrast between near and far objects and between subject and background). Correct exposure is important too and this also means must use the appropriate metering method and use exposure compensation of needed.
+
4) subject distance (the further you are from the subject, the worse the lens is able to resolve details and the worse the haze or light drop off).
+
5) post-processing (needs to adjust contrast and saturation and do some sharpening as different viewing medium and picture size require different sharpening. A picture even looks different between LCD monitor and CRT monitor). Viewing on monitor is different from printing because monitor is 1 picture pixel on 1 monitor pixel while printing is squeezing 200-400 pixels per inch.
+
6) try to upload to a hosting website where your picture is not compressed further. My pictures shown are a 300+KB-900+KB each. If your pictures are too compressed, sharpness is lost. Many web will compress your photo further to no more than 100KB.

Press the shutter release button half-way down first and pause for a short while for the focus to be confirmed first before pressing the button down fully.

In some low contrast or difficult lighting situation or far away distance where the subject is small within the frame, this camera may have problems getting its focus very accurate. This is something which is beyond your control and I have encountered it sometimes. I think your monkey shot might have suffered from inaccurate focus from low contrast (monkey brownish furs) and far distance (haze).

 

[belgarathc]

Thanks for the advice. I will take note of your pointers and practice more.

Thanks for sharing your photos.

To have sharp photos :

1) correct/appropriate aperture .......... which affects Depth of field (DOF). If you want everything in the picture to be sharp, use small apertures such as F/5.6 or larger F number up to F/8-F/11. If you just want limited DOF, use the large aperture .......i.e. small F numbers such as F/2.8 up to F/4.
+
2) fast enough shutter speed .............. must be fast enough to freeze movement and also avoid handshake blur (usually must be faster than 1/focal length).
+
3) good light condition/weather (if outdoor, haze/UV light and light intensity affects tonal and colour contrast between near and far objects and between subject and background). Correct exposure is important too and this also means must use the appropriate metering method and use exposure compensation of needed.
+
4) subject distance (the further you are from the subject, the worse the lens is able to resolve details and the worse the haze or light drop off).
+
5) post-processing (needs to adjust contrast and saturation and do some sharpening as different viewing medium and picture size require different sharpening. A picture even looks different between LCD monitor and CRT monitor). Viewing on monitor is different from printing because monitor is 1 picture pixel on 1 monitor pixel while printing is squeezing 200-400 pixels per inch.
+
6) try to upload to a hosting website where your picture is not compressed further. My pictures shown are a 300+KB-900+KB each. If your pictures are too compressed, sharpness is lost. Many web will compress your photo further to no more than 100KB.

Press the shutter release button half-way down first and pause for a short while for the focus to be confirmed first before pressing the button down fully.

In some low contrast or difficult lighting situation or far away distance where the subject is small within the frame, this camera may have problems getting its focus very accurate. This is something which is beyond your control and I have encountered it sometimes. I think your monkey shot might have suffered from inaccurate focus from low contrast (monkey brownish furs) and far distance (haze).

 

[Alphonse]

hi there, my take at gold coast australia Q1 building, claim the 2nd tallest residencial building in the world.

the gold coast taken from the top of Q1 building