S1/S2/S3/S5 pics. thread
- Thread starter cerebrus
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blinkblink
New Member
oh i see.. i shall try thatIn short, it is to make the photo looks like its a toy model.
In older days, to make real stuff looks like toy model, one needs to use a tilt-shift lens to do it. Now you can PP (aka post process) it digitally to get the same effect.
thanks for the info, lastboltnut
blinkblink
New Member
hi cerebrus
thanks for the insightful links... now i know what is it all about... previously i was still wondering how to get such an effect.. :0
thanks again..
velasco
Senior Member
Ok It's my bad...It was Velasco who did that beautiful pic!
Anyways...is this any better?
haha its okay. lol no fuss bout it
cant see that later pic. the previous one is quite neat. agree with the idea of blurring the panes as well hehe.btw guys i'll be posting my works at http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=415167s my refreshed APAD hoho. am looking forward to your support. thanks
lastboltnut
Senior Member
Hmm, think it was velasco who did this and not cerebrus =p BTW, I think it might look more convincing if the DOF was only limited to the people on stage and not extended to the stained glass window
Well, if it was a true T/S lens, the plane of focus would pass thru the bottom half of the frame, where the persons head is located.
emirates
New Member
haha its okay. lol no fuss bout it
btw guys i'll be posting my works at http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=415167s my refreshed APAD hoho. am looking forward to your support. thanks
nice...god idea. hey r u really only using an S5 looks like shots taken with an SLR:thumbsup:
velasco
Senior Member
lol yesh S5 or some shots are actually less standard that S5, Powershot A520.
thats very flattering thanks emirates! whats your name btw, been wanting to ask you all this while?
velasco
Senior Member
some hdrs look nice with noise. if not try neat image.
only noise reduction program i use
Much of the noise comes from some areas still being too dark. When you bracket your shots, make sure that it covers all the dynamic range of the scene.
How do you take your images?
This is what I do:
First of all, select the lowest ISO possible.
Meter the scene (half press shutter) and look at the shutter speed and the aperture.
You can now do the exposures in two ways.
1)
I tend to do this
Go into full manual mode. Lock the focus.
Remember the values from the metering? Set the same aperture. I normally start with a shutter speed that is three times as long as the metered one. Take a shot. Look at the
the histogram. Is it 'pushed' against one side (Think it should be the right side)? If it is not, take a shot with a longer shutter speed. If it is, I would half the shutter speed for the next shot. Take shots that will slowly move the peak across the whole range, finally ending up with a shot that is pushed against the other side.
I normally need about five shots this way.
2)
If you are using the auto exposure bracketing (I do this for hand-held, quick shots)
Go to aperture priority.
Remember the values from the metering? Set the same aperture.
Set the AEB value to +/-2
Take your shots.
You will end up with three photos.
Hope this makes sense.
<RANT>
Also, the pixel density on the S5IS is quite crazy. To me, my S3IS seems to be less noisy. Stupid megapixel race. :sticktong
</RANT>
Which software are you using? If it is Photomatix, play with the Micro-smoothing slider. This will help control the noise, though you might loose some details.
Last edited:
velasco
Senior Member
1)
I tend to do this
Go into full manual mode. Lock the focus.
Remember the values from the metering? Set the same aperture. I normally start with a shutter speed that is three times as long as the metered one. Take a shot. Look at the
the histogram. Is it 'pushed' against one side (Think it should be the right side)? If it is not, take a shot with a longer shutter speed. If it is, I would half the shutter speed for the next shot. Take shots that will slowly move the peak across the whole range, finally ending up with a shot that is pushed against the other side.
I normally need about five shots this way.
I shall try that soon after clearing some doubts. But then will there be ghosting if you press the shutter at different intervals? Is your proceding post's hdrs done using this method?
Frankly speaking, I have never used the histogram and i find them useless. Deep inside i know they are actually quite essential. hehe
<RANT>
Also, the pixel density on the S5IS is quite crazy. To me, my S3IS seems to be less noisy. Stupid megapixel race. :sticktong
</RANT>
Eew. Yup, I'm sadded. :/ hoho
I tend to do this
Go into full manual mode. Lock the focus.
Remember the values from the metering? Set the same aperture. I normally start with a shutter speed that is three times as long as the metered one. Take a shot. Look at the
the histogram. Is it 'pushed' against one side (Think it should be the right side)? If it is not, take a shot with a longer shutter speed. If it is, I would half the shutter speed for the next shot. Take shots that will slowly move the peak across the whole range, finally ending up with a shot that is pushed against the other side.
I normally need about five shots this way.
I shall try that soon after clearing some doubts. But then will there be ghosting if you press the shutter at different intervals? Is your proceding post's hdrs done using this method?
Frankly speaking, I have never used the histogram and i find them useless. Deep inside i know they are actually quite essential. hehe
<RANT>
Also, the pixel density on the S5IS is quite crazy. To me, my S3IS seems to be less noisy. Stupid megapixel race. :sticktong
</RANT>
Eew. Yup, I'm sadded. :/ hoho
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