is icarus around? maybe he can put this up in his 1st post for any future GRD users. below is wat i read at flickr..abt nacoki giving some tips abt his settings on using the GRD. his images are darn power, colorful and full of textures.
http://forums.clubsnap.org/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=2514181
from nacoki of flickr
Recent some flickr ask me about the trick on GR-D
so I would like to share some of my experience on using this.
the basic setting of my GR-D
+ customize image setting 1
- highest contrast
- highest sharpness
- highest color depth ( i think this also relate to the saturation of the photo )
many people ask about the post-production,
actually i m quite lazy on this, n i m not good at photoshop
so, all of my photo are using iPhoto 6 to manage.
as the setting in the GR-D are already enough,
so i will only increase the CONTRAST on some of the photo,
to make the subject matter much sharp.
the mode I always use:
+ P mode ( nearly all the time *daylight )
- AUTO iso ( range 64- 200) * over 200 will affect the color as i feel
- AUTO white balance ( actually always wrong )
- customize image setting 1
- MULTI AF ( favourable for MACRO )
- MULTI photometry ( easy to get some interesting light effect )
+ M mode ( when i want to have long exposure * night time/ low light intensity)
- same as P mode setting
- f 2.4
- duration (2 sec -15 sec) * above 15 sec, the GR-D loading like a fool
many people ask about the COLOR of my photo,
the main point isn't the post-production,
or the customize setting ( but i prefer using the maximum )
But what i think is the SHUTTER SPEED.
when you compare with two setting,
+ f2.4, 1 sec , iso AUTO ( assume to be 200 )
+ f2.4, 1/10 , iso 800
I can sure the one with 1 sec have better color result,
as it accumulate more light
instead of push up the iso.
GR-D is a strange machine,
the longer time exposure = vivid color.
e.g.
www.flickr.com/photos/nacoki/267170208/
I found that when you using P mode,
the slowest shutter speed is 1 sec,
as it is quite enough for many situation
BUT you need to have a STEADY HAND ( maybe you can use triport )
actually many of my photo are shooting at 1 sec.
Beside of that,
my most favourite method is,
LONG EXPOSURE,
very easy to get a cool photo
e.g.
www.flickr.com/photos/nacoki/116799811/in/set-72057594061...
www.flickr.com/photos/nacoki/94599721/in/set-720575940612...
www.flickr.com/photos/nacoki/117243351/in/set-72057594061...
www.flickr.com/photos/nacoki/139072471/in/set-72057594061...
another method to make the color much vivid is
using +1.0EV .
www.flickr.com/photos/nacoki/123268027/in/set-72057594061...
a method not really recommend but i always do it ( afraid you'll break your cam )
SLOW SYNC FLASH + SHAKE
after it flash, but still have 1 sec to shake around
www.flickr.com/photos/nacoki/169675236/in/set-72057594061...
www.flickr.com/photos/nacoki/121973197/in/set-72057594061...
Last, the key element, the timing ( when you shoot )
i found that GR-D done pretty well or
maybe crazy on MAGIC HOUR ( sunset / sunrise)
many of my photo are taken at that timing,
so the color are quite saturate n' weird.
e.g.
www.flickr.com/photos/nacoki/126596817/in/set-72057594061...
www.flickr.com/photos/nacoki/262622881/in/set-72057594061...
Just forget one trick for GR-D
LIGHT PAINTING,
it is quite effective on GR-D as i have M mode,
use a torch to shine your object, you can get like this
www.flickr.com/photos/nacoki/110883779/in/set-72057594061...
www.flickr.com/photos/nacoki/111316824/in/photostream/
Hope the above comments can help you those,
some of them may not the fact,
just my personal idea
