Old/alternate lenses, adapters, and lens mount conversions.

[ManWearPants]

Not shutter info, this is always recorded by the camera into the exif.

As for aperture and focal length, one has to input the information first. It is easy to "input" once one gets used to it. These get recorded into the exif for every shot you take, until changed.

I think you are refering to the focal length of a prime and the wide open aperture. So for example, if you are using a 35f2. You will programme 35mm and f2 aperture. But it does not record the correct aperture if you stopped down to f2.8 and so on. If this is the case, then it is the same as the Dandelion chip.

 

[clubgrit]

I think you are refering to the focal length of a prime and the wide open aperture. So for example, if you are using a 35f2. You will programme 35mm and f2 aperture. But it does not record the correct aperture if you stopped down to f2.8 and so on. If this is the case, then it is the same as the Dandelion chip.

As I said, one inputs it. One can input any aperture, even if it does not exist on the lens. Anytime while shooting.

Very simple, press DOF button 3x rapidly, roll the aperture to select same aperture currently on lens, press DOF once to save and stop roller from changing aperture. Do the same thing when one changes aperture on the lens.

Although it is meant for information only in the exif, it does affect metering if the last DOF press is not done. Like if moved to f/1.0 for a lens with a max aperture of f/2.8, metering is done for f/1.0. Anyway, one just has to be more careful and precise and not to forget to input the right aperture as one changes it, and to save it.

 

[ManWearPants]

As I said, one inputs it. One can input any aperture, even if it does not exist on the lens. Anytime while shooting.

Very simple, press DOF button 3x rapidly, roll the aperture to select same aperture currently on lens, press DOF once to save and stop roller from changing aperture. Do the same thing when one changes aperture on the lens.

Although it is meant for information only in the exif, it does affect metering if the last DOF press is not done. Like if moved to f/1.0 for a lens with a max aperture of f/2.8, metering is done for f/1.0. Anyway, one just has to be more careful and precise and not to forget to input the right aperture as one changes it, and to save it.

ok understand now. But not practical to program before changing aperture everytime. I am hoping either of these chip manufacturer will allow what is reflected on the camera's aperture setting to be captured in the exif. It is useful when reviewing photos. Now I am guestimate based on bokeh.

 

[clubgrit]

ok understand now. But not practical to program before changing aperture everytime. I am hoping either of these chip manufacturer will allow what is reflected on the camera's aperture setting to be captured in the exif. It is useful when reviewing photos. Now I am guestimate based on bokeh.

Well, I won't wait for chip manufacturers, I want something now, and a solution is here now. My take is ... what is pressing dof 3x rapidly, selecting camera aperture with the wheel, and another last DOF press ? Takes less than 5 seconds, nothing really. Then whatever aperture is on one's camera is captured.

YMMV of course. Furthermore, I hardly change aperture while shooting, so no big deal, and if I do on rare occasions, it is easy.

 

[Anthony Lee]

Well, I won't wait for chip manufacturers, I want something now, and a solution is here now. My take is ... what is pressing dof 3x rapidly, selecting camera aperture with the wheel, and another last DOF press ? Takes less than 5 seconds, nothing really. Then whatever aperture is on one's camera is captured.

YMMV of course. Furthermore, I hardly change aperture while shooting, so no big deal, and if I do on rare occasions, it is easy.

Thank you for your explanation. So, the Optix is different in the sense that it's actually easier to change. What about micro AF adjustment, is it as easy as changing the aperture value?

 

[giantcanopy]

Schneider Super Angulon PC 28mm f2.8 ( They made a Leica version as well )
Originally ordered the Nikon F mount, and currently adapting it to my 5D2.

Slightly warmer than the Nikkors, the corner CA performance is much better than the newer 24mm PCE offering by Nikon. But corners are softer at extreme shift and gets slightly better stopping down ( most apparent on higher resolution FF cameras. When i was using the D80, there was nothing to pick on )

Built like a tank, focusing feel was well dampened.

Here are some examples :

Ryan

 

[ManWearPants]

Just want to bring attention to my encounter yesterday for those buying used lenses online. Will not elaborate in this thread but read here
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6625024#post6625024

 

[Anthony Lee]

Just want to bring attention to my encounter yesterday for those buying used lenses online. Will not elaborate in this thread but read here
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6625024#post6625024

Thanks for the head up. I am so old school that the only online purchase I make is with Tagotech. The good part is I will never get cheated but the bad is that I will never get the opportunities you have to buy those lenses cheaper. At the end of the day, I prefer to see, touch and play with any lens first before I buy.

 

[ManWearPants]

Thanks for the head up. I am so old school that the only online purchase I make is with Tagotech. The good part is I will never get cheated but the bad is that I will never get the opportunities you have to buy those lenses cheaper. At the end of the day, I prefer to see, touch and play with any lens first before I buy.

Casting a wider net to get that lens faster, yes. Cheaper, no. In fact, for the popular lenses, the price is rather high. You will be amazed the kind of price that some people are willing to pay. And if you get a defective product and not able to reach a resolution with the seller, like my SLR/c, it really cost a lot more. Only occasionally, you can pick up a good deal. I thought this is one but alas.

 

[ManWearPants]

Schneider Super Angulon PC 28mm f2.8 ( They made a Leica version as well )
Originally ordered the Nikon F mount, and currently adapting it to my 5D2.

Slightly warmer than the Nikkors, the corner CA performance is much better than the newer 24mm PCE offering by Nikon. But corners are softer at extreme shift and gets slightly better stopping down ( most apparent on higher resolution FF cameras. When i was using the D80, there was nothing to pick on )

Built like a tank, focusing feel was well dampened.

Ryan

How do you handle the metering when shifted and have to stopped down. I was contemplating on getting the OM 35/2.8 TS for the larger image circle (no light fall off) for normal use. But then thought about manual TS lenses being not easy to meter if using the TS.

 

[giantcanopy]

How do you handle the metering when shifted and have to stopped down. I was contemplating on getting the OM 35/2.8 TS for the larger image circle (no light fall off) for normal use. But then thought about manual TS lenses being not easy to meter if using the TS.

Not sure if olympus has a tilt shift lens, but their shift lenses i heard are excellent offerings often mount modded, some say better than the original older Nikon shift lenses.

The shots taken are on tripod and often with much time for fiddling anyway. Aperture wide open to focus, then stop down aperture and meter when lens is unshifted. The reading unshifted will be the correct reading when u are shooting when shifting. Goes the same for t/s, the metering goes off when tilted, and you need to take the baseline reading untilted unshifted.

Ryan

 

[clubgrit]

Thank you for your explanation. So, the Optix is different in the sense that it's actually easier to change. What about micro AF adjustment, is it as easy as changing the aperture value?

Well, just like the actual micro AF adjustment built into Canon cameras, it needs some experimentation. I tried several settings, and after a couple of days ended up with the default - i.e. no adjustments needed, factory setting. I have a 100% accurate split focusing screen, so that makes it easier to adjust or play around with the setting.

Adjusting the AF Confirm takes more time, but is also easy. Furthermore, once one has set it, one will no longer need to set it again. In all adjustments, DOF button is the key. For adjusting AF Confirm:

There are 2 digits for AF Confirm adjustment, a range of 00 to 99. The default factory setting is 50. To finetune, try 55, 60, 75, etc. or the other way around 45, 40, 35 etc.

How does one enter these numbers ? We use the aperture wheel again. All one has to remember is that f/1.4 aperture is equal to zero. For the other numbers, one does not have to remember anything, just take the 1st digit of aperture as the number. So f/2.0 or f/2.8 are both equivalent to the number 2, f/4 is 4, f/5.6 is 5 and so on.

DOF x 3, roll wheel to select f/14 aperture, press DOF
Assume we want to try setting 70. So after doing the above :
Roll aperture wheel to select f/7.x, press DOF - this means digit 7
Roll aperture wheel to select f/1.4, press DOF - this means digit 0

That's it, check AF confirm focus if it suits you. No, then repeat procedure until you get it.
Try again next day to make sure.

It is easy once one starts doing it, intuitive. After setting, one can forget all about it already. The most used functions will then be the aperture and focal length setting.

It used to be that happypagehk was the only one selling this, now I realize there are others who have adapted the Optix chip. Even for Leica-R lenses, etc. All on eBay.

Anyway, here is one seller. Please watch the short video and see how it is done.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Contax-Canon-Ad...Accessories&hash=item5889c2e609#ht_3127wt_906

 

[clubgrit]

As usual, just simply love Zeissiness of the photos. You once owned the 85f1.4 also, so how does it compare to your new 100f2?

The C/Y 85mm is a beautiful portrait lens, soft and dreamy wide open or below f/2, reminds me of the Leica 50mm Summilux pre-asph or Noctilux, but with Zeiss colors of course.

The C/Y 100mm is a very sharp lens center to corner which the 85mm cannot match at f/2 to f/11, the most used apertures. It is sharper than my Leitz M 90mm f/2 ASPH, and about similar to my Leitz M 90mm f/2.8 if I recall correctly. But besides the sharpness, the gradation, narrow dof, and micro-contrast of the C/Y 100mm is what makes it stand out over the C/Y 85mm and the Leitz M 90mms. The C/Y 100mm is also not much larger or heavier than the C/Y 85mm.

Most important, however, is that I prefer the 100mm focal length over 85mm. It's only 15mm difference in full frame terms, but I use it on various crop cameras up to 2x. We should of course choose lenses on what suits our styles more.

Anyway, I share the sentiments exactly of the reviewer at Pebble Place for this lens. Check it out, intelligent personal review that speaks of competent experience and that has pictures as follows :
"The pictures on the first page were selected for their 3D feel, the images on the second page for their micro contrast and detail, and third page is a small collection of black and whites. "

http://www.pebbleplace.com/Personal/Contax_100mm_Planar.html

 

[tony_teo]

Shot with OM 50f1.4 on 5D wide open.

Anthony,
Which adapter are you using for the Oly? I've got a 50 f1.4 also. Thinking of trying it our with my 5D2.

 

[Anthony Lee]

Anthony,
Which adapter are you using for the Oly? I've got a 50 f1.4 also. Thinking of trying it our with my 5D2.

I am using Tagotech's adapters, with AF confirmation. They are pretty accurate and are selling only at S$ 50 each. Check with them. Cheers.

This was shot on my OM 50f1,4 with a Tagotech's adapter on my EOS 5d at F8.

 

[clubgrit]

Speaking of Zeiss C/Y 50mm f/1.7, my favorite old 50mm lens, and cheapest one among those I have, which shows that price definitely does not dictate my choice

Some samples all at ISO 400 as it was nighttime, with an Olympus Pen E-PL1 body which is my favorite day/night street camera using manual focus lenses (with EVF of course), displacing my Leica digital from its perch.

 

[Anthony Lee]

My favorite CZ lens, the Contax 50f1.7, shot wide open on EOS 5D.

 

[ManWearPants]

Not sure if olympus has a tilt shift lens, but their shift lenses i heard are excellent offerings often mount modded, some say better than the original older Nikon shift lenses.

The shots taken are on tripod and often with much time for fiddling anyway. Aperture wide open to focus, then stop down aperture and meter when lens is unshifted. The reading unshifted will be the correct reading when u are shooting when shifting. Goes the same for t/s, the metering goes off when tilted, and you need to take the baseline reading untilted unshifted.

Ryan

I visited your website. There is this of the MBS which you mentioned tilt shifted panorama. How do you do this? I also noticed that you do horizontal tilt more than vertical tilt. Is the former more pleasing than the latter. I have rather disastrous attempt on TS. No one seems to like the effect produced by vertical tilt. :dunno:

 

[oceanpriest]

I am using Tagotech's adapters, with AF confirmation. They are pretty accurate and are selling only at S$ 50 each. Check with them. Cheers.

Hi does your Tagotech's adapter have EMF chip?
http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120452322238&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

 

[Anthony Lee]

Hi does your Tagotech's adapter have EMF chip?
http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120452322238&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

The Tagotech's adapter has AF confirmation only. It's chip is not programmable like the one described in the link. I have never tried the Big-IS adapters, so I have no comments.