OFFICIAL: CANON EOS 5D Mark III - User Thread - Part 2


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alpha1ma said:
Wanted to snap a pic of sunrise but there was a big cloud blocking it.

Had the lucky moment the rays penetrated through a hole.

All pics at 1680px. Hope you all like it.

Are these shots done with onboard camera HDR processing?
 

avsquare said:
I tried high speed burst on both my SanDisk Ultra and SanDisk Extreme Pro, but to find out that both records the same number of continuous burst before jamming. But I do note that the Extreme Pro is better at clearing off the buffer, albeit not much of a difference from it's Ultra brother.

Yes you won't notice the difference because the bottleneck is the camera buffer for RAW. Not sure you are using CF or SD but for SD, you'll notice that buffer is cleared faster with the Extreme Pro.

But seriously, I never shot more than 5 frames of RAW using continuous. So no issue for me :p
 

jzliang said:
Hi guys,

I'm not very sure how to use the AI Servo mode. Can I find out which of the options in AF1 you guys choose most?

And is it spot focus or 1+4 or 1+8 focus point the best for AI Servo?

Thanks for the advice in advance!

Nobody can tell you what AI SERVO mode to use because everybody shoots different things. The in-camera description is good enough as it tells you what's the behavior of the 6 different settings. If not, you can refer to the instructions booklet for more info.

AI SERVO has been around for such a long time. You can also refer to some AI SERVO guides written for 1D3/4 series previously. They are pretty similar in terms of the basic parameters.
 

chengpenguin said:
Nobody can tell you what AI SERVO mode to use because everybody shoots different things. The in-camera description is good enough as it tells you what's the behavior of the 6 different settings. If not, you can refer to the instructions booklet for more info.

AI SERVO has been around for such a long time. You can also refer to some AI SERVO guides written for 1D3/4 series previously. They are pretty similar in terms of the basic parameters.

Noted. Thanks!
 

I bought silicon power SD class 10. I hope its as reliable as sandisk.
 

I bought silicon power SD class 10. I hope its as reliable as sandisk.
Reliability is one thing, speed is the other..Though it's rated Class10, it is best case scenario only..
I have tested the Sandisk vs Transcend Class 10s together on 2 identical cameras taking identical shots and the Sandisk finish saving to disk about 20% faster than the Transcend consistently…but again, the transcend is 20% cheaper also…

BTW, where you buy the SP card? I saw they have 600x CF card also..i hope it's cheaper than transcend..i don't mind cheap…just want to get a CF card so i can use both slots at the same time..
 

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i went to shoot again but was unable to take any clearer pics.

i tried auto focus and manual focus already.

would really need L lens telephoto for 5d3.

or my copy of 75-300 is not as sharp? hmm

Try renting the 70-200 f/2.8 II or the 100-400 and I think you'll notice a big difference.
 

Yes you won't notice the difference because the bottleneck is the camera buffer for RAW. Not sure you are using CF or SD but for SD, you'll notice that buffer is cleared faster with the Extreme Pro.

But seriously, I never shot more than 5 frames of RAW using continuous. So no issue for me :p

Ah I tested on CF. Not exactly an issue for me, cos usually the whole sequence can be usually taken in one max burst, about 20-30 frames. Just looking at something that can clear off the buffer fast enough in case I need to burst quickly again :p
 

Reliability is one thing, speed is the other..Though it's rated Class10, it is best case scenario only..
I have tested the Sandisk vs Transcend Class 10s together on 2 identical cameras taking identical shots and the Sandisk finish saving to disk about 20% faster than the Transcend consistently…but again, the transcend is 20% cheaper also…

BTW, where you buy the SP card? I saw they have 600x CF card also..i hope it's cheaper than transcend..i don't mind cheap…just want to get a CF card so i can use both slots at the same time..


I check the review before i bought it. The speed is comparable to Sandisk. SLS lot of place selling
 

Try renting the 70-200 f/2.8 II or the 100-400 and I think you'll notice a big difference.
Oh yes, i forgot about the 100-400…that's a great super tele lens..although old and the push pull design is still weird to me…and it's not cheap either..almost same price as the 70-200 f2.8 II which is by far the best tele lens period.
 

I check the review before i bought it. The speed is comparable to Sandisk. SLS lot of place selling

Really ah? SLS have 600x CF cards? I thought only photo shops will sell CF cards of that speed..after all the only people using them are photographers…
Which shop in SLS in particular…i've not been there in years.

Actually, comparing the prices of Silicon Power 16GB 600x online, it's way more expensive than Transcend..almost same price as Sandisk...
 

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Very nice! HDR one? What software u used?

hey thanks. actually not sure if this should be called hdr, i very blur but hdr and exposure blending.

basically using photomatix to merge 7 shots together under exposure fusion adjusted.

I don't think there's any sharp super tele lens int he market.
Even the 70-300L isn't sharp if you compare it to a 70-200…
Super teles can be sharp but not at the longest end..that's the trade off i believe for range..you want sharp long range i think you will need a prime tele lens..
i don't know of any company that makes a super tele that is as sharp or comparable to a 70-200 lens..
On a side note, i do belive the Tamron 70-300 is as sharp as the 70-300L except for the 300mm…BUT do note that the Tamron is only $700+ brand new so…i realyl have no complains there.

Try renting the 70-200 f/2.8 II or the 100-400 and I think you'll notice a big difference.

thanks, will have to save for some time for it. will rent when I am free to shoot moon again.

Really ah? SLS have 600x CF cards? I thought only photo shops will sell CF cards of that speed..after all the only people using them are photographers…
Which shop in SLS in particular…i've not been there in years.

Actually, comparing the prices of Silicon Power 16GB 600x online, it's way more expensive than Transcend..almost same price as Sandisk...

hmm i was quite shocked at the 600x prices online, so i got a 400x one. i got the 32gb 400x transcend for 80+.
 

Are these shots done with onboard camera HDR processing?

hey nope i din use the built in hdr function coz the alignment is off and dun have ghosting function.

using photomatix exposure fusion adjusted
 

Really ah? SLS have 600x CF cards? I thought only photo shops will sell CF cards of that speed..after all the only people using them are photographers…
Which shop in SLS in particular…i've not been there in years.

Actually, comparing the prices of Silicon Power 16GB 600x online, it's way more expensive than Transcend..almost same price as Sandisk...

I never really scan for CF card. Convergent is distro for Silicon Power that why cheaper.
 

I try taking pictures of my son running towards me using ef 24-105 from 105mm to 24mm. Cool, all shots in focus! This have never been possible with 5dmk2.
Only thing I notice that my 430ex2 flash cannot "keep up" with the speed. So, some of the pictures are under exposed as the flash did not fired. Not too sure if it is also because the flash zoom head cannot "unzoom" fast enough as well.
 

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Copied from Fstopper.com link> http://fstoppers.com/news-5dmk3-light-leak-issue-surfaces

5dmk3 Light Leak Issue Surfaces

[video=youtube;hh7OaF0Qh0Q]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hh7OaF0Qh0Q&feature=player_embedded[/video]
[video=youtube;25Dgb2gbiwk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=25Dgb2gbiwk[/video]
It seems a new issue has popped up for the Canon 5dmk3. Multiple people are reporting that there is a light leak through the top LCD panel that directly affects metering. The easiest way to detect this issue is to put the body cap on the camera body as well as cover the viewfinder. Then place the camera in “P” mode at ISO800 and press the LCD backlight button. As you can see in the video, the shutter speed changes depending on whether the backlight is activated. Similar results are achieved when a flashlight is shone onto the top LCD. Some users are even reporting that direct sunlight or walking into a room with bright overhead light is enough to sway the meter. If you are one of the lucky ones who managed to purchase a 5dmk3, it might be worth doing this little test to see if you need to seek a replacement version.

Test Procedure:
Remove lens and place the body cap on the camera body.
Place the viewfinder cover on the viewfinder.
(This should theoretically block any light from entering the camera.)
Set ISO to 800 and set the camera mode to “P”.
(You should see a shutter speed of around 10 sec.)
Now either shine a flashlight near the top LCD panel area or simply turn on the backlight for the top LCD panel.
This will cause the shutter speed to fluctuate between 5-8 seconds, indicating light leakage.
 

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ahboy168 said:
I try taking pictures of my son running towards me using ef 24-105 from 105mm to 24mm. Cool, all shots in focus! This have never been possible with 5dmk2.
Only thing I notice that my 430ex2 flash cannot "keep up" with the speed. So, some of the pictures are under exposed as the flash did not fired. Not too sure if it is also because the flash zoom head cannot "unzoom" fast enough as well.

It's the recycle time of the speedlite... It can't recharge fast enough to fire off in continuous mode.

Try using high shutter speed, hi speed sync. If still not fast recycle speed, get a 600EX and battery pack :p Confirm can capture all frames one!
 

tznyein said:
Copied from Fstopper.com link> http://fstoppers.com/news-5dmk3-light-leak-issue-surfaces

5dmk3 Light Leak Issue Surfaces

YouTube Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hh7OaF0Qh0Q&feature=player_embedded
YouTube Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=25Dgb2gbiwk
It seems a new issue has popped up for the Canon 5dmk3. Multiple people are reporting that there is a light leak through the top LCD panel that directly affects metering. The easiest way to detect this issue is to put the body cap on the camera body as well as cover the viewfinder. Then place the camera in “P” mode at ISO800 and press the LCD backlight button. As you can see in the video, the shutter speed changes depending on whether the backlight is activated. Similar results are achieved when a flashlight is shone onto the top LCD. Some users are even reporting that direct sunlight or walking into a room with bright overhead light is enough to sway the meter. If you are one of the lucky ones who managed to purchase a 5dmk3, it might be worth doing this little test to see if you need to seek a replacement version.

Test Procedure:
Remove lens and place the body cap on the camera body.
Place the viewfinder cover on the viewfinder.
(This should theoretically block any light from entering the camera.)
Set ISO to 800 and set the camera mode to “P”.
(You should see a shutter speed of around 10 sec.)
Now either shine a flashlight near the top LCD panel area or simply turn on the backlight for the top LCD panel.
This will cause the shutter speed to fluctuate between 5-8 seconds, indicating light leakage.

Does not affect my set in any way.

Tried P, Tv, Av, body cap on, lens on. Metering remains same whether top LCD is lit or covered.
 

Test Procedure:
Remove lens and place the body cap on the camera body.
Place the viewfinder cover on the viewfinder.
(This should theoretically block any light from entering the camera.)
Set ISO to 800 and set the camera mode to “P”.
(You should see a shutter speed of around 10 sec.)
Now either shine a flashlight near the top LCD panel area or simply turn on the backlight for the top LCD panel.
This will cause the shutter speed to fluctuate between 5-8 seconds, indicating light leakage.


I just tested my set and i too have the light leak issue..
From 10sec with LCD light on, it goes to 5sec...so there's some serious leaking of light there...
However, i'm not sure how this actually affect the overall photos when you do attach a lens since most of the light comes through the lens and that's a lot more light than what the LCD can cause and most of the time, the LCD light is not on....at the very most maybe i can cover the LCD panel with some kind of tinted sheet to prevent sunlight? I don't know...Maybe it's normal to have light leaks like that and Canon finds it doesn't affect anything?

EDIT: I retested again, this time WITH a lens attached but the eyepiece covered and this time with or without the lcd on, or even with light shining into the lcd the exposure doesn't change..so i guess this "problem" only really affect with the lens "NOT" attached…i doubt anyone takes photos this way. Anyways, i also believe that in real world photo taking, your eyes isn't 100% covering the eyepiece anyways (unlike testing where you cover the whole eyepiece), i believe light leaks in through there even more so than the LCD panel…heck, even long night exposures i don't cover the eyepiece..so to me..i don't see this as a "problem"
 

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In Chinese sayings, they call it "picking a bone from an egg". Is 5D3 too perfect that people are trying to find faults with it?
 

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