Seems like it's the common problem found with most panoramas, not taken at the lens' nodal point. To achieve that, you need the appropriate gear for that. Here's more information on
nodal point. You can also
google 'nodal point for more information'.
The seniors might have a better solution to your problem. Gurus?
Cheers!
Bro, to do panaroma shots nicely, it is recommended to do it with a panaroma bracket, so you can rotate using the nodal point as the center of rotation. Also, you need manual exposure to lock the exposure in place and shoot with discipline at fixed angles. Warning, those brackets ain't cheap!
But I thought your 3 shot pana turned out very nicely though.
I think you did very well! Maybe you could try ptgui? It's a pretty good panorama programme.
Did research on nodal points, seems like a whole load of science and techniques revolving around this subject! Even found a tabulated data at this url
http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database for a wide range camera bodies and lenses. Using the appropriate values with a pano-bracket, but yes daredevil123, those prices are prohibitive!
ptgui did appear first amongst the google results for stitching software, perhaps I should try it out soon with my shots. In the meantime, I'll be looking at any available plugins that would do the stitch on the photoshop platform. Then again, my cs2 is really ancient, lol.
Last but not least, I didn't lock exposure at all, which explains the inconsistencies in the sequence shots. Many thanks for all the advice given, shall work on it!
Something to share...
One of my friend told me that, it would be better to use 35mm or 50mm to shot the photos for panoramic to minimize the distortion problem.
I think it would be good also to shot with camera in upright orientation or portrait so that you will have maximum high of view.
Just my 2 cents.
Interesting, and the first concern that popped up on my mind was the field of view. With a relatively narrower field of view (did i get this term right), I'll reduce the distortion that's inherent in UWA setups. The trade-off is definitely on the number of overlapping frames needed to cover the intended area of capture. What I can pull off with just 6 shots on 12mm, may translate into at least 30 on a 50mm! If I even attempted with the 70-200 like dingaroo mentioned, a newbie like me would probably be stuck on the barrage roof till sunrise...
Furthermore the G20 ballhead azimuth markings are in 15-degrees intervals, makes it really hard to control the panning for evenly spaced shots. Nevertheless, thanks for raising this point up!
Really enjoy looking at the pics taken by the rest of you present that evening, like musichelle's pic of that adorable baby. Keep them coming! And yes, fantastic group photograph by SolitudE!!
