Newbie - Help on Exposure (Tree VS Sky)

[Daoyin]

Yes, I have come to realise white is not a good friend of photography, haha. So a blue sky is definitely better than a cloudy sky!

One more point I think for the tree shot to be successful is the sky as well. I find that even if the tree is properly exposed, sun behind etc etc, it wouldn't help if the sky is blooming with white clouds because the sky's gonna get over exposed again. So probably need to wait for it to be blue or lesser clouds~

Dear TS, to make it simple for you, just go back to the same scene about 5.30 - 6.30 PM and shoot again. Set your camera to aperture priority mode, meter for the trees and then view the histogram of the shot just taken. You are looking for a curve that does not have sharp peaks at either ends of the scale. If needed, then use EV to compensate.

At your stage of knowledge, leave manual mode for later. There is enough things to worry about as it is.

Good luck.

 

[takafan]

Dear TS, to make it simple for you, just go back to the same scene about 5.30 - 6.30 PM and shoot again. Set your camera to aperture priority mode, meter for the trees and then view the histogram of the shot just taken. You are looking for a curve that does not have sharp peaks at either ends of the scale. If needed, then use EV to compensate.

At your stage of knowledge, leave manual mode for later. There is enough things to worry about as it is.

Good luck.

Yes, centre-weighted average. Yup, i will use EV to compensate while shooting under Aperture Priority Mode.


Now, i have a new question if u guys don't mind, hehe :bsmilie:

I was trying to take some evening/night shots and then i realise something funny..

Obviously, the lens wouldnt be able to auto-focus into the dark(black) sky since there is nothing for it to focus(all black-about 8~9pm). I learnt that as black as the sky/environment looks, if u expose for a few seconds, the results that come out would show a brighter sky/environment! (funny but happens)

Anyway back to the topic... So.. first... I manually selected the focus point into a bright light area(refer to pic below) - roughly i set the focus point on the bottom right crane-like thing, it between the sparkling lights, but still, it couldn't auto-focus.

No choice, i switched off Auto-Focus on the lens and set to Manual Focus. So i slowly turned the front of the lens till it looked sharp. I looked through the viewfinder but it was too small, so i decided to use Live View instead.

The first shot, i more or less got it(i hope?). However, the 2nd one kinda screw up already. I was playing between the Shutter Speeds of 4-10 seconds(can't remember), i was on a tripod by the way.

What i want to ask is that... Am i doing this correctly? Or totally wrong? I suppose there should be a better way to do this, am i right? About the auto-focus i suppose?

Pics as below:

I'm using Manual Focusing for Manual selection of Focus Point as well on the two pics above. Because AF don't work and im unable to shoot. All its auto-focus are blur.




Sorry for all the trash pics posted thus far. Here's something i took before it got dark. I hope its something better for your eyes

 

[ovaltinemilo]

Now, i have a new question if u guys don't mind, hehe :bsmilie:

I was trying to take some evening/night shots and then i realise something funny..

Obviously, the lens wouldnt be able to auto-focus into the dark(black) sky since there is nothing for it to focus(all black-about 8~9pm). I learnt that as black as the sky/environment looks, if u expose for a few seconds, the results that come out would show a brighter sky/environment! (funny but happens)

And to your surprise, you might overexpose a dark scene too if you expose too long..

No choice, i switched off Auto-Focus on the lens and set to Manual Focus. So i slowly turned the front of the lens till it looked sharp. I looked through the viewfinder but it was too small, so i decided to use Live View instead.

There is something called the Focus Confirmation. For nikon, it's a green dot to say:"yes, green light, you are on target. Press the shutter now":bsmilie:
Looking through the viewfinder in a dslr is not accurate for manual focus.

 

[qwerty628]

Can focus, just focus on point of contrast like light source far far away to get the focus to infinity. Or where ever you want to focus on. Or a high contrast point that has same plane of focus as your subject. Manual focus in live view is nt wrong. Its one of the best ways imo to focus and compose at night. Got grid lines, precision mf, big bright screen. Only drawback is that it comsums lots of power.

 

[takafan]

And to your surprise, you might overexpose a dark scene too if you expose too long..

Yes, this i found out too, haha!

There is something called the Focus Confirmation. For nikon, it's a green dot to say:"yes, green light, you are on target. Press the shutter now":bsmilie:
Looking through the viewfinder in a dslr is not accurate for manual focus.

So i assume what u are telling me is that i was correct to use Live View for Manual Focus right?
However so, it was still too small on the LCD screen itself to judge sharp or no. I went home to realise out of 6-7 taken, only 1 was acceptable(slightly).

Was what i did correct? By changing to Manual Focus and also manually choosing the Focus Point for the Camera since it can't focus and u keep seeing the Red Rectangle which forbids u from a shot, haha!

Is there a better way to do this? Or does it means i probably have to shoot at something larger so that it can auto-focus, or if not, i can manual focus and easier to see if the picture is sharp or not when the contents are larger.

 

[takafan]

Can focus, just focus on point of contrast like light source far far away to get the focus to infinity. Or where ever you want to focus on. Or a high contrast point that has same plane of focus as your subject. Manual focus in live view is nt wrong. Its one of the best ways imo to focus and compose at night. Got grid lines, precision mf, big bright screen. Only drawback is that it comsums lots of power.

Can focus? Do u mean auto focus or manual focus?

If auto, i have tried setting the Focus Points in the Bright Areas in the picture while i was on Auto-Focus. It didn't work.

Hence i changed to Manual Focus, and then maintain the same Focus Points as manually select as well.

 

[qwerty628]

And to your surprise, you might overexpose a dark scene too if you expose too long..


There is something called the Focus Confirmation. For nikon, it's a green dot to say:"yes, green light, you are on target. Press the shutter now":bsmilie:
Looking through the viewfinder in a dslr is not accurate for manual focus.

Its also a green dot at btm right of vf for focus cnfrmation for canon But dont over rely on in the dark, canon sometimes miss green light also on.

 

[qwerty628]

Can focus? Do u mean auto focus or manual focus?

If auto, i have tried setting the Focus Points in the Bright Areas in the picture while i was on Auto-Focus. It didn't work.

Hence i changed to Manual Focus, and then maintain the same Focus Points as manually select as well.

auto focus. Switch to centre af point. The other points are unreliable and auto selection will screw everything up. Point the centre af point which you have manually selected at pt of high contrast or light source with same plane of focus and half depress shutter. You should be able to get af lock on.

 

[takafan]

auto focus. Switch to centre af point. The other points are unreliable and auto selection will screw everything up. Point the centre af point which you have manually selected at pt of high contrast or light source with same plane of focus and half depress shutter. You should be able to get af lock on.

Sometimes u are taking landscape pic... Not necessary centre...

If i pointed the centre point AF point at the light itself... then it would have defeated the purpose of the whole picture right. Look at my picture on top. The rule of the thirds wouldnt be applicable should u point the centre at the brightest area...

 

[Yangzw]

Sometimes u are taking landscape pic... Not necessary centre...

If i pointed the centre point AF point at the light itself... then it would have defeated the purpose of the whole picture right. Look at my picture on top. The rule of the thirds wouldnt be applicable should u point the centre at the brightest area...

auto focus. Switch to centre af point. The other points are unreliable and auto selection will screw everything up. Point the centre af point which you have manually selected at pt of high contrast or light source with same plane of focus and half depress shutter. You should be able to get af lock on.

Hi there,

From what I see from your posts, I think you are not very sure of the fundamentals and the best thing you should do is do more reading.

To answer your question....

Do you understand how does the autofocus work? Basically, you need something of contrast. You can try this at home...shoot an object compared to trying to focus on a single colored wall or perhaps just a plain piece of paper....

What you can do sometimes is to focus on something then recompose...as querty628 has suggested....right now you are asking people for the solutions and it seems that you don't understand the solution given also which is why I think you should read up first......

 

[takafan]

auto focus. Switch to centre af point. The other points are unreliable and auto selection will screw everything up. Point the centre af point which you have manually selected at pt of high contrast or light source with same plane of focus and half depress shutter. You should be able to get af lock on.

From my understanding, he is telling me to switch to the Centre Focus Point. I have total of 9 on my camera. So centre one.

2nd part, he tells me to point the centre point at the point of high contrast or light source.


If i did that, that means the bright source will be in the centre of my frame. That would mean, i wouldnt be able to comply with the Rule of Thirds. The end result would possibly become a half/half and no longer in thirds.


I might have misunderstood what he says. I'm still a newbie. I have read a lot and went through the manual already. Reading is a must i know. But it is useless to keep reading without trying out, because i will never fully understand the real situations that happens.

Kindly pardon my ignorance and enlighten me, thanks!

What you can do sometimes is to focus on something then recompose...as querty628 has suggested....right now you are asking people for the solutions and it seems that you don't understand the solution given also which is why I think you should read up first......

How do i do that? I'm on a tripod ~

 

[ziploc]

Hi there,

From what I see from your posts, I think you are not very sure of the fundamentals and the best thing you should do is do more reading.

To answer your question....

Do you understand how does the autofocus work? Basically, you need something of contrast. You can try this at home...shoot an object compared to trying to focus on a single colored wall or perhaps just a plain piece of paper....

What you can do sometimes is to focus on something then recompose...as querty628 has suggested....right now you are asking people for the solutions and it seems that you don't understand the solution given also which is why I think you should read up first......

Obviously he is not taking the ""Manual Reading Mode" and "Books Reading Mode" seriously.

 

[ziploc]

From my understanding, he is telling me to switch to the Centre Focus Point. I have total of 9 on my camera. So centre one.

2nd part, he tells me to point the centre point at the point of high contrast or light source.


If i did that, that means the bright source will be in the centre of my frame. That would mean, i wouldnt be able to comply with the Rule of Thirds. The end result would possibly become a half/half and no longer in thirds.


I might have misunderstood what he says. I'm still a newbie. I have read a lot and went through the manual already. Reading is a must i know. But it is useless to keep reading without trying out, because i will never fully understand the real situations that happens.

Kindly pardon my ignorance and enlighten me, thanks!

How do i do that? I'm on a tripod ~

Can't you just focus, lock the focus and recompose?

 

[Yangzw]

auto focus. Switch to centre af point. The other points are unreliable and auto selection will screw everything up. Point the centre af point which you have manually selected at pt of high contrast or light source with same plane of focus and half depress shutter. You should be able to get af lock on.

From my understanding, he is telling me to switch to the Centre Focus Point. I have total of 9 on my camera. So centre one.

2nd part, he tells me to point the centre point at the point of high contrast or light source.


If i did that, that means the bright source will be in the centre of my frame. That would mean, i wouldnt be able to comply with the Rule of Thirds. The end result would possibly become a half/half and no longer in thirds.

I might have misunderstood what he says. I'm still a newbie. I have read a lot and went through the manual already. Reading is a must i know. But it is useless to keep reading without trying out, because i will never fully understand the real situations that happens.

Kindly pardon my ignorance and enlighten me, thanks!

You see.....you can half press to focus on sth that can autofocus (in your case which is the bright source far far away).....then....without releasing your finger....recompose to what you want....... then press completely to shoot.....

Of course, shooting this way especially for subjects at nearer distance the focusing may not be very accurate but in your case (landscape shot) you'll probably be focusing at infinity and it does not really matter as you got huge depth of field.

If not.....just manual focus.

 

[takafan]

You see.....you can half press to focus on sth that can autofocus (in your case which is the bright source far far away).....then....without releasing your finger....recompose to what you want....... then press completely to shoot.....

Of course, shooting this way especially for subjects at nearer distance the focusing may not be very accurate but in your case (landscape shot) you'll probably be focusing at infinity and it does not really matter as you got huge depth of field.

If not.....just manual focus.

Thank you for your patience and clear explaination....

 

[Octarine]

If i pointed the centre point AF point at the light itself... then it would have defeated the purpose of the whole picture right. Look at my picture on top. The rule of the thirds wouldnt be applicable should u point the centre at the brightest area...

You mix up AF point and metering point. Please check your camera manual about the metering zones for centre-weighted and spot (if available). Cameras with real spot metering can couple AF point selection and spot metering point. Most entry level cameras have spot metering only on centre AF point.

 

[Octarine]

2nd part, he tells me to point the centre point at the point of high contrast or light source.

If i did that, that means the bright source will be in the centre of my frame. That would mean, i wouldnt be able to comply with the Rule of Thirds. The end result would possibly become a half/half and no longer in thirds.

Erm .. there is this thing called 'cropping' what you can do even with the most simple image editing tools and of course also with Canon software. Your camera has enough resources in Megapixels (= image size) that you can easily crop away unwanted parts and still have a decent size image for printing.
Don't be a slave of guidelines, there are many ways to achieve a target. Also, there is more than one image format. Landscapes can also look gorgeous in 1:1 (square) crop or 16:9.

 

[daredevil123]

....Obviously, the lens wouldnt be able to auto-focus into the dark(black) sky since there is nothing for it to focus(all black-about 8~9pm). I learnt that as black as the sky/environment looks, if u expose for a few seconds, the results that come out would show a brighter sky/environment! (funny but happens)

Anyway back to the topic... So.. first... I manually selected the focus point into a bright light area(refer to pic below) - roughly i set the focus point on the bottom right crane-like thing, it between the sparkling lights, but still, it couldn't auto-focus.

No choice, i switched off Auto-Focus on the lens and set to Manual Focus. So i slowly turned the front of the lens till it looked sharp. I looked through the viewfinder but it was too small, so i decided to use Live View instead.

The first shot, i more or less got it(i hope?). However, the 2nd one kinda screw up already. I was playing between the Shutter Speeds of 4-10 seconds(can't remember), i was on a tripod by the way.

What i want to ask is that... Am i doing this correctly? Or totally wrong? I suppose there should be a better way to do this, am i right? About the auto-focus i suppose?

...

In your situation, the best way to get everything into focus is to understand and use hyperfocal distance.

You can read about it here:
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6111934&postcount=131

and here:

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=695149&page=7

 

[wildcat]

One more point I think for the tree shot to be successful is the sky as well. I find that even if the tree is properly exposed, sun behind etc etc, it wouldn't help if the sky is blooming with white clouds because the sky's gonna get over exposed again. So probably need to wait for it to be blue or lesser clouds~

No need to wait. Kit has this tool that can turn the sky brighter and darker as required, but I am waiting for his version 2 which can change the cloud shapes as required. :angel:

Obviously, the lens wouldnt be able to auto-focus into the dark(black) sky since there is nothing for it to focus(all black-about 8~9pm). I learnt that as black as the sky/environment looks, if u expose for a few seconds, the results that come out would show a brighter sky/environment! (funny but happens)

Can wad. That's why I always carry a torch around. If I try to focus on, for example, a star and my camera won't focus on it, then it's not bright enough for my camera to focus on but I can then shine my torch at the star to lighten it up... :angel:

It pretty much works on the same concept as using your flash for night landscape photography :angel:

And before I get banned by the mod, pls take my posting with a pinch of salt and lots of water.

 

[ovaltinemilo]

In your situation, the best way to get everything into focus is to understand and use hyperfocal distance.

You can read about it here:
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6111934&postcount=131

and here:

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=695149&page=7

:thumbsup:

you really need to read on hyperfocal distance to overcome your current problem it seems.