[ New Gear ] Panasonic announces the GH3 (with images and FULL press release)


When I first started figuring out how to set it up, did experience it freezing up a couple of times, with both android (htc phone) and iOS (ipad).
I chalked it up to user error as it's quite infrequent now.

Some tips from my experience, may or may not work for you:
- When initiating a connection, you need to be ready to open the lumix link app as soon as the camera prompts you to, it'll result in a failed connection if you're too slow.
- Disconnecting from the camera side using 'Back' seems to be a reliable method for me. This is from noticing that when my phone/tablet times out (e.g., due to power saving settings), it has a higher likelihood of resulting in freezing the camera.
 

- Disconnecting from the camera side using 'Back' seems to be a reliable method for me. This is from noticing that when my phone/tablet times out (e.g., due to power saving settings), it has a higher likelihood of resulting in freezing the camera.

Now, for me, if it hangs, it is usually when disconnecting ...

So, you also experience this freeze/hang "thingy", huh ?

Other GH3 users can confirm this too ?

Thanks
 

I have this irritating problem on the GH3.

I do not use the EVF, I use the LCD alot.

And our GH3 auto detects that when you look thru the EVF, it lights up and the LCD goes blank !

Problem is sometimes I move my fingers/palm around & it detects my finger & then the LCD goes off/blank ... now to deactivate this function ?

Thanks
 

Yup, it's possible. Check the manual.
 

Yup, it's possible. Check the manual.
I have been searching high and low in the manual but cannot find.

I also remember watching a youtube tutorial on changing this. But again, I don't seem to be able to find the video in youtube again.

Will you be kind enuf to show me ?

Thanks so much ...
 

I have been searching high and low in the manual but cannot find.

I also remember watching a youtube tutorial on changing this. But again, I don't seem to be able to find the video in youtube again.

Will you be kind enuf to show me ?

Thanks so much ...

Sometimes it might be easier to use the digital version, and do a keyword search:

See pg 62
http://service.us.panasonic.com/OPERMANPDF/DMCGH3_ADV.PDF
 

Hi all experts GH3 & m4/3 users,

I usually put on the 25mm f1.4 lens onto my GH3.

It takes great photos with excellent bokeh & shallow depth of field with the background blured.

So far so good & very happy with it because I like to take photos with excellent bokeh & shallow depth of field.

The problem is that in order to get this effect, my photos are now all close-up shots. I will have to stand very near to the subject to get that effect. So all the photos are zoomed in to the subject faces.

But I wanted to take shots of the subject in full height (ie from head to toe) or at least from head to their knee level. In order to do that, I have to stand back. But then when I stand back, I cannot get the bokeh effect & I also cannot the shallow depth of field.

I tried changing to 12-35mm f2.8 lens & the results is the same, I need to zoom in until their faces before I can get any bokeh or shallow depth of field. Tried the 35-100mm f2.8 lens too & similar results.

Can anyone help ?

Thanks
 

Hi all experts GH3 & m4/3 users, I usually put on the 25mm f1.4 lens onto my GH3. It takes great photos with excellent bokeh & shallow depth of field with the background blured. So far so good & very happy with it because I like to take photos with excellent bokeh & shallow depth of field. The problem is that in order to get this effect, my photos are now all close-up shots. I will have to stand very near to the subject to get that effect. So all the photos are zoomed in to the subject faces. But I wanted to take shots of the subject in full height (ie from head to toe) or at least from head to their knee level. In order to do that, I have to stand back. But then when I stand back, I cannot get the bokeh effect & I also cannot the shallow depth of field. I tried changing to 12-35mm f2.8 lens & the results is the same, I need to zoom in until their faces before I can get any bokeh or shallow depth of field. Tried the 35-100mm f2.8 lens too & similar results. Can anyone help ? Thanks

I think to do this you need a fast wide lens as you stand close to your subject. The lens to subject distance is close enough and the background is far away. With Perhaps the oly 12/2 you can do this? Never tried.
 

I think to do this you need a fast wide lens as you stand close to your subject. The lens to subject distance is close enough and the background is far away. With Perhaps the oly 12/2 you can do this? Never tried.

Thanks Agrivar,

Is my 25mm f1.4 lens not fast enough ?

My problem is to achieve it, like you say, "lens to subject distance is close enough". When it is close enough, I always ends up with a close up shot.

I tried the 12-35mm f2.8 lens, at 12mm @f2.8 close to the subject cannot even get it ...

U think using the 7-14mm f4 at 7mm @f4 can achieve it ?

Thanks
 

Hi all experts GH3 & m4/3 users,

I usually put on the 25mm f1.4 lens onto my GH3.

It takes great photos with excellent bokeh & shallow depth of field with the background blured.

So far so good & very happy with it because I like to take photos with excellent bokeh & shallow depth of field.

The problem is that in order to get this effect, my photos are now all close-up shots. I will have to stand very near to the subject to get that effect. So all the photos are zoomed in to the subject faces.

But I wanted to take shots of the subject in full height (ie from head to toe) or at least from head to their knee level. In order to do that, I have to stand back. But then when I stand back, I cannot get the bokeh effect & I also cannot the shallow depth of field.

I tried changing to 12-35mm f2.8 lens & the results is the same, I need to zoom in until their faces before I can get any bokeh or shallow depth of field. Tried the 35-100mm f2.8 lens too & similar results.

Can anyone help ?

Thanks

What you are describing is "working distance" of a lens. Unfortunately Micro Four Thirds/ Four Thirds system has increased depth of field due to the smaller sensor size (so called cropped factor), so you get about 2-3 stops of DOF with the system. (f2.8 is more like f5.6/f8). Two solutions available, move on to a 135mmFF format like Nikon D610/D800 or Sony A7/A7r. Or, create that bokeh in Photoshop. It is not that difficult to achieve that in post processing.

As the sensor sizes go up, the crazier the bokeh becomes.
 

I think cheapest way to get the bokeh is to manage ur distance to ur subject and also the distance of back ground from ur subject. Esp if background are far.

Should be able to get decent bokeh with ur 25mm
 

I think cheapest way to get the bokeh is to manage ur distance to ur subject and also the distance of back ground from ur subject. Esp if background are far.

Should be able to get decent bokeh with ur 25mm

Yes ayuready, I can easily get good bokeh using my 25mm f1.4. But it is always near to the subject. So, the end result is my shots with bokeh are all only with only the face. I cannot get 3/4 body shot ... (maybe the background need to be very very far away ?)
 

What you are describing is "working distance" of a lens. Unfortunately Micro Four Thirds/ Four Thirds system has increased depth of field due to the smaller sensor size (so called cropped factor), so you get about 2-3 stops of DOF with the system. (f2.8 is more like f5.6/f8). Two solutions available, move on to a 135mmFF format like Nikon D610/D800 or Sony A7/A7r. Or, create that bokeh in Photoshop. It is not that difficult to achieve that in post processing.

As the sensor sizes go up, the crazier the bokeh becomes.

I cannot afford to go full-frame ... it is too expensive and the lens are too bulky & heavy for me to carry around ...

How do you create bokeh using Photoshop ?

Thanks
 

Yes ayuready, I can easily get good bokeh using my 25mm f1.4. But it is always near to the subject. So, the end result is my shots with bokeh are all only with only the face. I cannot get 3/4 body shot ... (maybe the background need to be very very far away ?)

If against a plain wall, very hard to get much out of it.

But if there is nice distance in back ground. Should be no problem. Unless ur standard of thin dof is different from mine haha expectation different
 

If against a plain wall, very hard to get much out of it.

But if there is nice distance in back ground. Should be no problem. Unless ur standard of thin dof is different from mine haha expectation different
Hahaha thanks ayuready ... my standard of dof is very low. I very "chin chai" one, as long as got background blur can liao.

I went to test in airport and I am sure the background is quite far away but when I move away from subject until I can get 3/4 body, the blurry background all become very sharp liao, no blurring anymore ...

Tried with 25mm f1.4, 12-35 f2.8 and 35-100 f2.8 all cannot ... very "pek chek" ... Hahaha
 

Hahaha thanks ayuready ... my standard of dof is very low. I very "chin chai" one, as long as got background blur can liao.

I went to test in airport and I am sure the background is quite far away but when I move away from subject until I can get 3/4 body, the blurry background all become very sharp liao, no blurring anymore ...

Tried with 25mm f1.4, 12-35 f2.8 and 35-100 f2.8 all cannot ... very "pek chek" ... Hahaha

In the first place, did you shoot @ f1.4 for your 25mm?

If all 3 lenses above cannot meet your expectation of object isolation...then you should have high expectation on bokeh.

May be can post the photos you took...it will help a lot.
 

In the first place, did you shoot @ f1.4 for your 25mm?
Of cos. I set it to Aperture priority. I set it to the smallest f number, in this case 1.4 (ie the biggest aperture)


If all 3 lenses above cannot meet your expectation of object isolation...then you should have high expectation on bokeh.
Hahaha .. no lah. My expectation on bokeh is not high lah. The fact of the matter is I have no bokeh or shallow dof at all !

What I wish to reiterate is I cannot get the shallow dof or bokeh when I tried to shoot a subject (a human being) with a 3/4 body shot (ie from face to knee). If I stand near to the subject covering the face only, I can easily get the bokeh ...

So to get a shot covering from face to knee, I need to move further back and the lens distance to subject is no longer condusive for a shallow dof or bokeh ...
 

Last edited:
Back
Top