NEPAL [ A Family Trekking Travelogue ] - by limwhow & SereneXMM


Finished my first helping of pop corn and drinks. Now that it is intermission time, going out for a refill. Haha.

Great FAMILY adventure.
Haha.. Daoyin yah Daoyin, while you are at it, buy some chicken rice and char kuay tiao... and my favourite Hokkien mee..
I had Dal Bhat for too long alredy - man, do I crave Hokkien mee! Lol...

.... ehh doctor.... with all these travels to Cambodia, Nepal etc, got time for work or not? Looks like your grandfather from Fujian left you a big inheritance. haha.;)
Eh no lah.... my Teochew story left half way not finished because my grandfather just past away one day, leaving me with nothing but an ancient Chinese script "The Old Tang Dynasty manual of How NOT to write a travelogue", upon which I used to draw cartoon over it.
Wahahaha..
So I had no choice to start working as a porter, and slowly graduated into a guide, and the rest was history liao.

Nice. Suddenly, really have the feeling and urge to go on a trekking trip too. :bsmilie:
But maybe not in Nepal yet..

(erm just curious..to do this..roughly how much does it cost for 1 adult?)

TKmilkteaTW, of course you should.
How much? Honestly for a 9 day trek, you'd probably spend lesser than if you were to do a trip of the same duration to say, Hong Kong, Japan, Taiwan, Korea and many many other places.
We got SgTrekker to organise the land trip for us, and we bought our own air tickets.
I will PM you the price.
 

Encouragements..

Ladies and Gentlemen,

Wow...! I want to say a big thank you to all of you who have PM-ed me privately and have penned their replies here on the thread,
and given me all your kind compliments.
To all of you, my sincere sincere gratitude.
It's merely a small day by day kind of travel diary, I feel.
Nothing special.
I just tried to make the daily happenings as interesting as I can for not only ourselves,
but also all our good friends out here in CLUBSNAP.

Thanks so much once again!

Limwhow & SereneXMM
 

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Were you serious about stepping on the dung for traction part ?
After that the shoes would really smell right ?
 

Were you serious about stepping on the dung for traction part ?
After that the shoes would really smell right ?

Haha.. But really, I was serious.
At that moment, I can tell you ANYONE would go for the dung, rather than take a slip on the frozen ice.
It was that scary. hahaha...
 

Day 4 of trekking: From Tadapani (2660m) to Ghandruk (2060m)
*Yawn.... an easy easy trek...*
[Haha... that's what most would think...]


Yupe. So it had come to Day 4.
Somehow, after my deep slumber, and after awakening to a fresh cold mountain morning,
I couldn't believe that
the family had done three days of pretty tough (read, in our family term lah, but in real mountaineering terms, it's 'easy') trekking.

Me to SereneXMM: "You know something, Dar?"
SereneXMM: "What?"
Me: "I knew somewhere, some time along the trek, it is just going to be
MENTAL already. No longer purely physical, but Mental."
"But I didn't realise that it occurred so soon. Yesterday, it hit the children. Yeah, Day 3 was the day when the Mental part played a major role."
SereneXMM: "Yah lor... for me, since Day 1 it was
Mental already..."

*Blur...* How do you reply to that? Hahaha..
Anyway... here is the GPS track of our 'short' trek from Tadapani to Ghandruk on this Day 4..


Click on the image below to see a larger version



So.. off we go on the start of Day 4...

 

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Interesting and informative thread!
 

DAY 4 started like any other trekking days.
As cold as any other trekking days, if not colder.
Every one of us walked like penguin ding dong ding dong down to the outside (almost outdoor) washing basin to brush our teeth and wash our faces.
It was so cold......
I almost didn't feel like brushing my teeth.

Really? At least you guai guai brushed..
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Edit: Added photo of AhLiXMM brushing her teeth in the outdoor...
I saw the mirror reflection of the opposite lodge as I was brushing my teeth with her. That scene was pretty feelingful to me: the cold, the walking out, and toothpaste all over her mouth... her kitten beanie.. all here on this fateful Tadapani morning...
Didn't have my camera. Only my iPhone.
So just took a snap of it for memory's sake...

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A munch of breakfast, a sip of coffee...
8:15am, off we go.. a brand new start to a brand new day!

Ramesh and RajKumar getting our backpacks ready...

Oh... with the short trek today, I had a feeling that they were going to fly like ponies with wings right ahead to our destination...
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"So! How is every one?" cheerful greetings from Mahesh. "Are we ready? Ok! Let's go!"
A blink of the eye, a broad smile from the handsome guide, and the girls were totally charmed, and their legs started pumping.

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Analysis of the GPS Data in retrospect showed that on this day, our trek was much less undulating than the previous day's.
A totally descending trek, without too much of undulation, was the main reason why Mahesh confidently declared today's trek to be the easiest one in all the whole trip.
Somehow, I didn't know whether to believe him 100% or 99%.
Sometimes the twinkle in his eyes could be a gentle persuasion to push on a little more.
Especially knowing how we Singaporeans tend to behave... he could have developed a knack to gently 'encourage' us to attain our goal.


Nice, flat terrain...
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The Rhododendron forest had taken on a different kind of feel now that we have descended off the highs of 3100m to the current around 2600m.
No longer did we see frosted ground and ice, we are enjoying a nice breezy hike through lush greens.
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.. well, lush enough for a sub-tropical vegetation.
Walking behind the girls, the view from the back looks totally beautiful.. Like a page out of Lord of the Rings..
Or something to that effect. I just couldn't help but fired away on my camera - f/8 all the way.
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Ok, for those who are crazy about trekking to Annapurna Base Camp...

Somewhere right after Tadapani we came to a small junction.
Mahesh pointed out the route one would take to end up at Annapurna Base Camp..

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Wow.. that's another story altogether yah...
Maybe one day we will be trekking on the left route instead of this right route.
One day. One day.
 

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"Trekking is kinda boring, isn't it? You just walk, and do nothing else.."

Some of my friends and patients have asked me this very valid question. I don't deny that.
But it all boils down to how you walk. Yes, that's right ~ how you walk.
You could simply choose to walk and totally immerse yourself in your own thoughts.. an almost meditative silence ensues and some trekker achieve a never-before attained peace of mind, that was so welcome a break from the signal-overload in a modern society.
Or your could choose to let go and open your eyes and your mind to your environment.

More often, we would lapse into periods of silent trekking, alternating with periods of engagement trekking.

What I loved about trekking at a leisurely pace in the Nepali Himalaya is that the person with whom you trek closely can participate in an ongoing conversation throughout the whole period while you both were walking.
I talked and talked non-stop with each of the children, laughing.. marvelling at the plants, the poultry the livestock, and of course the mountains.
Throughout our trek, the Annapurna South peak, the Hiunchuli peak and the Machhapuchhre peaks kept following us. And their presence gave us the reassurance that we were all in good hands as they watched over our safety.

I didn't think I ever had even one-tenth of the time really talking to the children back at home at the end of the day, totally exhausted from a hard day at work. And I thought the talk-and-walk thingy was pretty refreshing. It's just communication.
In the serenity of the Rhododendron where nothing disturbs the peace except the sound of footsteps and the rustling of the leaves, hearts and minds are most open to words from the one walking close by. And communication is just like that ~ an exchange of words, a sharing of opinions, so that each of us can grasp what the other person is thinking of.

i don't know. That's just what trekking is to me.

To those of us living in a modern society, hectic and full of datelines and stress from not only our own work, but our children's school works, I would offer my sincerest of recommendations ~ do all of yourselves a great favour. Give yourselves a break from the race of the rats, if only even just for a week. And insert yourselves right into serenity here in the outdoors, where the internet cannot reach you, where the normal material comforts eludes, and where, for the first time in a long time, you have a whole, undivided time to be with your children, your spouse, and even your loved ones.
And the time you have is protected and blessed by the watchful eyes of the Himalayan mountains.

Do it. No regrets.
 

"Huh? But no shopping, no good food, no soft and warm bed in comfortable hotels... how to be relaxed?"

Yes, we had none.
Everything was rudimentary. But you are back to basic.
Back to Nature which was what we human beings were meant to be be living within, NOT living without.
Convinced your wives, convinced your husbands, and convinced all your children.
Just take a leap of blind faith and do this ~ just once.
And it could just turn out to be the trip of your family's lifetime.

That, is the take home message of my this humble thread.

Anyway... back to the story...
 

Down, down, down... and more down...

True to Mahesh's words, we were going down and down and down.
But mind you, it wasn't an easy down.
600m of descend in a short few hours meant only one thing ~ that your knees were almost guaranteed to be banged hard as the impacts from repeated blunt contact with hard rock surfaces would transmit the force of connection all through your leg bones right onto the cartilage of your knees.
And viola! Knee pain and ligament strains were a constant companion.

Those of us who were familiar with the uppings and downings of trekking in Nepal would know the pit falls.
I myself have learned, by observation, that the Nepali porters always kept their knees slightly bent whenever they descended and they would do a forefoot landing rather than a heel landing. All these translated to shock being dissipated properly instead of being focussed right onto the knee cartilages and ligaments.
Granted, in order to do this, you had to have strong thigh muscles and calf muscles.
But that's how one should trek to avoid too much knee and ankle injuries.

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... I kept a close watch over the younger two girls while I descended with them.
Main purpose? AhSing was the one with the weakest knees amongst all the children and I just got to make sure she was ok.
I wasn't too worried about the climb. But when a day's trek was almost entirely descending, one often became complacent and coupled that with tiredness, and a trekker could easily slacken and loose the proper form of trekking.
And that was when injuries most often occurred.
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The other issue was that of hydration. No doubt it was cold throughout the whole few days of trekking.
The cold and the low humidity (we had absolutely no precipitation and the days while we trekked were almost cloudless days) predisposes one to dehydration.
It was easy to just walk and forgot about drinking because one was not hot, as compared with walking or exercising in the Tropics.
I literally had to keep reminding the children and SereneXMM and myself to drink.
Water had also became a premium up here in the mountains.
What cost 25 rupees (Singapore 35 cents) a 1 litre of bottled water had escalated to 150 rupees (Singapore $2.11) per bottle.
If one was daring enough to ask for refill of 'Drinking safe water' from the lodge, it would cost 50 rupees (Singapore 70 cents) a bottle.
Cokes and beers were also at a premium at such high altitudes.
Thus, the best deal? Just drink plain bottled water. And if the guest lodge didn't sell bottled water, ask for 'Driking safe water' to refill your water bottles.

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Some Addition....
Some added photos on the previous posts...
To make the story more complete...
Click on each of the photos to be linked to the post...


Brushing teeth in cold cold Tadapani...



Here.. turn this way to Annapurna Base Camp!

 

Descends, descends and more sharp descends...

Our faithful forward scout, he was always on the look out.
And just like the previous day when he warned us about the icy up-slopes, today he kept walkie-talkie us about the sharp descends..
"OK OK... there are many sharp down slopes," he warned. "After the downslopes, there is a small stream with only a few rocks to step on in order to cross it. Careful. Wet and slipper."

And after a while, he discovered another sharp descend...
"Another sharp down. Hard to find rocks to step on..."


Really tough. All these.
And what I found more teruk, was that we had to cross a few streams merely stepping across logs and small rocks in the middle of the stream.
Haha.. what an experience. If we missed a step, we would simply go downstream with the flow liao...

Wah... walk until knees really painful!

This day was the one when my knees really cried out loud.
As much as I kept my knees bent and toes tipped, the strain on the knee ligament was still pretty tremendous for a man of my size.
Yupe. Served me right for not losing more weight, and not training up my thigh muscles even more before we came for the trek.

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While walking, the eyes must be kept focussed on the step-able rocks and surfaces.
Really. Because you just can't trust what appeared to be safe. Some of the small mud puddles turned out to be quite slippery.

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And often, the down-step is not a low one step, but a high two step drop.

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Even after a short distance forward, I looked back and found that the girls behind were still quite high up.
Wow.. only when I looked back could I see how much we have dropped in terms of vertical height, only after a short walk.
Hmmm...

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I told AhSing and AhLiXMM.. let's all slow down a little bit and stop here at the stream to wait for the rest behind.
Let them have a chance to catch up so that we can walk together.
And caught up they did, and pretty quickly too.

Just as we were enjoying some flat terrain, another sharp dip came upon us...
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[Shot taken by SereneXMM]

SereneXMM was very clever.
While I was struggling with the dip, she had the presence of mind to capture the side of this cliff..
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[Shot taken by SereneXMM]

Oh... a clearing!
Wow.. the gorge suddenly open up in front of us and we came right up to a nice opening where some trekkers were sitting on the grass enjoying a scene of the mountains ahead. We grabbed the chance to take a rest and gobbled down some water...
We should be not far from Ghandruk, yah?
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It was just so Himalayan, wasn't it.
When it was down, it would always present you with some ups.
And here, the girls found themselves straining their quadricep muscles again on an upward slope.
Come on, Ghandruk MUST be near already! No?
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... I am sure I could almost smell Ghandruk...

It's noon time.
And after that short climb, we kinda could feel something changed.
The feeling in our bones, of something nearing..
That feeling of home-run, all over again.

Looking left of our track, we began to make out terrace farms, small little houses...
gradually we started seeing people.. people standing in the middle of the farm..
And good-looking houses... all accompanied by the giants looking down from high up.

Machhapuhhre observing the villagers [limwhow].................................Hiunchuli eyeing the houses [shot by SereneXMM]
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How could you tell that you were entering a well-established village?
Well for one, the road is well-paved and level.
And the walk is... OoooooOOOOHHH sooo comfortable.

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Yes! Ladies and Gentlemen... welcome to Ghandruk!
Deeper and deeper we walked into the village.
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"You mean, that's it?" I thought to myself.
"Such a short trek only? It was only aga aga three and a half hours of trekking..."

Yes lah. Just enjoy Ghandruk while the noon sun is still up.
Relax lah.

Ok, then.
Let's try to explore the village a little bit this afternoon, after we had lunch.
Should be quite an interesting village.



to be continued...
 

Water had also became a premium up here in the mountains.
What cost 25 rupees (Singapore 35 cents) a 1 litre of bottled water had escalated to 150 rupees (Singapore $2.11) per bottle.
If one was daring enough to ask for refill of 'Drinking safe water' from the lodge, it would cost 50 rupees (Singapore 70 cents) a bottle.
Cokes and beers were also at a premium at such high altitudes.
Thus, the best deal? Just drink plain bottled water. And if the guest lodge didn't sell bottled water, ask for 'Driking safe water' to refill your water bottles.

And once you cross beyond a certain height (I can't recall), there wouldn't be any bottled water. I myself have a weak stomach so I will throw in purification tablets into my drinking water...
 

great scenery.. :)

tecnica, thank you!
The scenery is great.
How I wish I could say the same of the photography... LOL...

And once you cross beyond a certain height (I can't recall), there wouldn't be any bottled water. I myself have a weak stomach so I will throw in purification tablets into my drinking water...
Blackmafia, you must have climbed up pretty high when you were there... LOL..
I think it all depended on how hard-working the suppliers were. In our previous trek we still had bottled water at 3400m at Namche Bazaar along Everest trek.
But I agree with you, for those with intestinal sensitivity, it does help to have some iodine tabs thrown in..
But the taste is really not the most palatable.
Thus this time round, despite having the children, I chose not to use any of the tablets, but just let their bodies develop a natural affinity to the water bacteriae. Haha..
 

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