think about it before you ask.
a) when it's really dark
b) when it's really bright
which do you think is the answer?
Need some comments!
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think about it before you ask.
a) when it's really dark
b) when it's really bright
which do you think is the answer?
Not for me. Diffraction softness makes pictures visibly soft at f/22. No point. If f/16 is not enough I'll use ND filters to reduce the amount of light. But first you need to get the basics right, no point discussing filters for now.
I've shot ISO100 (lowest I can go), F/22, shutter I think was about 1/2000s or something.
I think the result was still pretty acceptable. I didn't notice diffraction starting to have a negative effect on my photo. Perhaps it was the resolution (low) I was taking at.
So it depends on what you're using the photo for. To simply view on desktop monitor I think is still ok.
I don't find it noisy. Looks ok to me. The problem is at 20sec, you can never get a sharp outdoor plant image as leave, flowers will move with light breeze.
For the building shot, did you off the IS (if 1000D has one?). Use mirror lock if there is one as there is shakes too.
For the building shot, did you off the IS (if 1000D has one?). Use mirror lock if there is one as there is shakes too.
disagree. f16=diffraction=less details. what you should do is shoot at around f10, then do focus stack with multiple shots.
For nite portrait...meaning u are going with friends. Wats the time you will be there, I feel like going too...
There is a scene selection on nite portrait (on the scene dial)? If yes, you can start by using that, after every shoot go look at the data (eg. shutter, Aperture, ISO, WB, metering...etc) from there you can fine tune or use setting more to your preferrence.
This is taken by my H50...you can try out too...mine is not a good shot but it is the first few nite landscape I did fews month back.
f/8...4sec...ISO-200...metering-pattern...mode-mamual
You don't really read .. or you still don't get the point .. erm spot.
There is only one spot metering and as your manual tells you it uses the center area of the viewfinder to meter the scene. There is no other spot to use in any other situation (at least not for the 1000D). Do read about the different ways of metering and when to use what. Final question is: which part of the image must be properly exposed? Go figure according your own images.
Why do you want to use manual focusing? Seems you are overloaded with the very basics and yet you want to add another topic: manual focusing (maybe in dim light?) with a lens that works faster and better in AF. Why? Control where the camera is focusing on. For this there is the function of selecting focus points. Again, your manual tells you all the details.
i think what u want are hard n fast rules.... but that just doesn't happen in photography... u have the tools in ur hand, u need the knowlege to use the tools, and then u decide how u want to use the tool...
manual or auto, ask urself, use it, if ur picture focus perfectly fine and acceptable to u in Auto focus then use it, auto focus doesn't give u the results u need, try tweaking w manual focus... that said, some people just like to use manual, some like AF (mind u, auto focus is a technology that u paid for)
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