LX3 Users Discussion.

[erictan8888]

Hi

I charged my new original panaspnic battery for 4 hrs for the 1st charge but it didnt last very long. Subsequent charging also did not yield long battery life. Anyone has the same problem?

thanks

define long.....

 

[beemer75]

abt 150 shots per charge. but i do play with the camera to learn the features. Was using a P&S camera so got a steep learning curve ahead.

 

[erictan8888]

150 is a bit too shot... should be able to get about 200+....
do play around less if you want the battery life extended...
or try to get a 3rd party spare battery... should be more than enough...

 

[Six-GHz]

abt 150 shots per charge. but i do play with the camera to learn the features. Was using a P&S camera so got a steep learning curve ahead.

I also get roughly about 180 shots initially. I think it's about there, probably you play more than you take! But gradually, you'll tend to get more shots as you play around less.

 

[beemer75]

I also get roughly about 180 shots initially. I think it's about there, probably you play more than you take! But gradually, you'll tend to get more shots as you play around less.

How long did you charge the new battery on the 1st charge? I did abt 4 hrs.
If you did not sufficiently charge a new battery for the 1st charge, will it affect future performance of the battery?

Also the battery get charged after 130 mins - so why do the sellers recommend the 1st charge to be more than tt?

 

[mms102304]

Hi Bros, just want to know if the Nikon SB-600 speedlight works and is compatible with the LX3?

 

[beemer75]

Am able to get bokeh effect when doing macro. what setting do you use to get bokeh for portrait ie sharp picture of person with a blurred backgroud?

I tried using A priority and F2 but doesnt turn out well.

Also is the LX3 able to take pictures where a fixed object (with people walking by) is sharp and the people just "blur-rish" to the extend they appear "ghost" like? Do you set a long shuttle speed and what abt other setting, or only a slr can do it.

Many thanks from a noob.

 

[playhard]

Which setting do you choose to take photo indoors, preferably at a restaurant (not so bright or dim light) so that you can have a bright background? I try to use the intelligent automatic function, but the shuttle speed is too slow (F2, 1/8), I set to manual, F2, speed 1/13 (which I can still hold firmly) but background is not bright at all.

Thanks

 

[nikonnut]

Am able to get bokeh effect when doing macro. what setting do you use to get bokeh for portrait ie sharp picture of person with a blurred backgroud?

I tried using A priority and F2 but doesnt turn out well.

Also is the LX3 able to take pictures where a fixed object (with people walking by) is sharp and the people just "blur-rish" to the extend they appear "ghost" like? Do you set a long shuttle speed and what abt other setting, or only a slr can do it.

Many thanks from a noob.

Because of the small sensor size, the DOF will always be great, even at the long zoom end with an aperture of 2.8 on the LX3. You mentioned F2, which means you're at the short end of the zoom range - you should instead use the long end and use 2.8 instead. To simulate the bokeh effect you can achieve in macro mode, you'd have to place your subject a good (long x2) distance from the background. It would also be good to make sure that the background is not too busy - just plain would be good. I have yet to test this out though ... just speaking from experience.

For your second question, put the camera in "S" speed mode. Dial in a slowish speed like 1/15 or 1/30 or slower speed depending on the amount of blur that you want to achieve. Because of the slow speeds involved, a steady platform is advised i.e. a tripod. Focus on the object then fire away. Another variation is having the subject sharp while all around it is blur. This is the panning technique and can be achieved very easily with a little practice.

 

[nikonnut]

Which setting do you choose to take photo indoors, preferably at a restaurant (not so bright or dim light) so that you can have a bright background? I try to use the intelligent automatic function, but the shuttle speed is too slow (F2, 1/8), I set to manual, F2, speed 1/13 (which I can still hold firmly) but background is not bright at all.

Thanks

Try using a higher ISO value - like 400 or 800.

 

[beemer75]

thanks
Will try out. New to camera with manual functions but finding it more interesting than auto P&S.

I bought a lens adapter 46mm tt comes with 46-52 step up ring online. Should I buy a 46 or 52 UV filter?

Any good filter to recommend?
MS Florence quoted Hoya for $15.

Am buying a filter 1stly to protect the lens and 2ndly, UV filter will help when taking landscape pictures in bright day light?

All advice much appreciated for a noob.

 

[FilterFunk]

$15 for a 52mm? thats kinda exp.

 

[Brett]

hoya will do just fine its abt $10-15 dep which shop u go to.

for landscapes get a CPL circular polariser or a gradual ND filter to enhance the skys richness or use photoshop in post processing

thanks
Will try out. New to camera with manual functions but finding it more interesting than auto P&S.

I bought a lens adapter 46mm tt comes with 46-52 step up ring online. Should I buy a 46 or 52 UV filter?

Any good filter to recommend?
MS Florence quoted Hoya for $15.

Am buying a filter 1stly to protect the lens and 2ndly, UV filter will help when taking landscape pictures in bright day light?

All advice much appreciated for a noob.

 

[Six-GHz]

About the format used for processing photos from the shops, do we use 3:2 or 4:3, so the photos won't be cropped?

I used 3:2 format but the shopowner told me that the borders will definitely be cropped off. She asked me to use 4:3 instead. True? All the while I though 3:2 is just nice for developing 4R sized photographs?

Can anyone enlighten on this, since LX3 has a convenient selector to choose the format? Thanks.

 

[zcf]

for 3:2 if you develop in other than 4R, S8R or S10R, sure need to crop.
3R 3.5" x 5" 7:10
4R 4" x 6" 2:3
Digital size: 3:4
5R 5" x 7" 5:7
6R 6" x 8" 3:4
8R 8" x 10" 4:5
S8R 8" x 12" 2:3
10R 10" x 12" 5:6
S10R 10" x 15" 2:3

 

[Six-GHz]

for 3:2 if you develop in other than 4R, S8R or S10R, sure need to crop.

Thanks, this is informative. The other day I developed 4R using 3:2 but top and bottom was noticebly cropped.

You stated Digital size as 3:4. Can further elaborate on that? I searched through the old posts in CS (some dated 2002), that there are digital-image (DI) sized, ie. 4:3.

Was that the reason why the shopowner asked me to take photos in 4:3 instead of 3:2 to avoid cropping? Thanks.

 

[jungle_sg]

when u mention the subject had to be 2x from background u mean 2x the distance from camera to subject right? so the subject is 3 m away from camera, u would want the background to be 6m away?

Because of the small sensor size, the DOF will always be great, even at the long zoom end with an aperture of 2.8 on the LX3. You mentioned F2, which means you're at the short end of the zoom range - you should instead use the long end and use 2.8 instead. To simulate the bokeh effect you can achieve in macro mode, you'd have to place your subject a good (long x2) distance from the background. It would also be good to make sure that the background is not too busy - just plain would be good. I have yet to test this out though ... just speaking from experience.

For your second question, put the camera in "S" speed mode. Dial in a slowish speed like 1/15 or 1/30 or slower speed depending on the amount of blur that you want to achieve. Because of the slow speeds involved, a steady platform is advised i.e. a tripod. Focus on the object then fire away. Another variation is having the subject sharp while all around it is blur. This is the panning technique and can be achieved very easily with a little practice.

 

[nikonnut]

What I meant when I quoted "long x2" was "long long" distance from the background - as far away as possible. I will try it out and post here when I can.

 

[inshatin]

Hi, 1st time posting here. Been using my LX3 for over a month. I just noticed this black spot on my pictures. It seem to appear on every picture. Its very obvious in outdoor shots but less obvious indoor. Is it dust? Anyway to get rid of it? It's really disturbing!!!

 

[nikonnut]

Hi, 1st time posting here. Been using my LX3 for over a month. I just noticed this black spot on my pictures. It seem to appear on every picture. Its very obvious in outdoor shots but less obvious indoor. Is it dust? Anyway to get rid of it? It's really disturbing!!!

There's no reason for dust to get to the sensor in this case, so it must be the lens. Try wiping the lens clean - it could be dirty.