3:4 = 4:3 in printing :sweat:Thanks, this is informative. The other day I developed 4R using 3:2 but top and bottom was noticebly cropped.
You stated Digital size as 3:4. Can further elaborate on that? I searched through the old posts in CS (some dated 2002), that there are digital-image (DI) sized, ie. 4:3.
Was that the reason why the shopowner asked me to take photos in 4:3 instead of 3:2 to avoid cropping? Thanks.
Because of the small sensor size, the DOF will always be great, even at the long zoom end with an aperture of 2.8 on the LX3. You mentioned F2, which means you're at the short end of the zoom range - you should instead use the long end and use 2.8 instead. To simulate the bokeh effect you can achieve in macro mode, you'd have to place your subject a good (long x2) distance from the background. It would also be good to make sure that the background is not too busy - just plain would be good. I have yet to test this out though ... just speaking from experience.
For your second question, put the camera in "S" speed mode. Dial in a slowish speed like 1/15 or 1/30 or slower speed depending on the amount of blur that you want to achieve. Because of the slow speeds involved, a steady platform is advised i.e. a tripod. Focus on the object then fire away. Another variation is having the subject sharp while all around it is blur. This is the panning technique and can be achieved very easily with a little practice.
How abt "reverse" bokeh - foreground blur, back ground sharp? Do you use manual focus and trained the focus at the back?
Or the "sandwich" - clear center and blur at the fore and background?.
Many thanks.
anyone encounter lower part of the photo becomes "darker' when taking photo using the in-built flash fitted wif the 52mm tube adaptor? anyway to overcome this issue?
anyone encounter lower part of the photo becomes "darker' when taking photo using the in-built flash fitted wif the 52mm tube adaptor? anyway to overcome this issue?
Yup, I also encountered the same problem using flash with the 52mm tube adaptor.
maybe should have gotten a 46mm tube and use a 52mm step-up ring instead![]()
anyone encounter lower part of the photo becomes "darker' when taking photo using the in-built flash fitted wif the 52mm tube adaptor? anyway to overcome this issue?
thats because the flash is unable to illuminate the bottom part of ur scene because ur adapter is blocking it...
wonder if the 46mm lens tube will cause similar issue?
i believe so.
wonder if the 46mm lens tube will cause similar issue?
Yes. The manual already stated that if you use the tube, a shadow will be casted on the photo.
As LX3 has a smaller sensor 1/1.6" compare to most DSLR, it has much bigger depth of view compare to DSLR. So below F/8 is not an issue, actually it may face degrade in photo quality due to diffraction issue at f/8, while most DSLR face diffraction issue at f/16 and above.Hi Guys
I noticed that LX3, Min aperture is F8.
1) In landscape, we often use F16-F22. Since LX3 is a wide angle, do you guys basically just stretch it to F8?
2) In most DSLR lens, F8 is the sharpest. What about LX3?
As LX3 has a smaller sensor 1/1.6" compare to most DSLR, it has much bigger depth of view compare to DSLR. So below F/8 is not an issue, actually it may face degrade in photo quality due to diffraction issue at f/8, while most DSLR face diffraction issue at f/16 and above.
if that is the case then Panny has created a design flawbut any users using the 46mm lens tube care to comment
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