Yeah lor..Never heard about Printing by RGB space colour ...Er..Check the ink jet then we know mah..CYMK is Cyan Yellow Magenta and Black...Print RGB waste alot of ink and how to print black colour..
LCD from DSLR and laptop ok but printout terrible!! Pls help
- Thread starter studiolabmaster
- Start date
- Status
Yeah lor..Never heard about Printing by RGB space colour ...Er..Check the ink jet then we know mah..CYMK is Cyan Yellow Magenta and Black...Print RGB waste alot of ink and how to print black colour..
Please read Apple's RGB vs CMYK column again........
I did my best but he smug me off..... saying he is a pro and have more experience than me.... that y he is right.Prismatic said:
Sign-off
Prismatic said:
last one.......... I think you still don't get it
read theRGB's post again:
http://forums.clubsnap.org/showpost.php?p=2971449&postcount=16
and this again carefully:
http://www.xrite.com/product_overvi...gment=12&ID=581&Action=Support&SupportID=3981
No its can still be way off. The ideal situation is to get your monitor calibrated and then using getting the ICC profile of your printer using a colorirometer. You can then use this ICC profile to do soft-proofing which will give you more or less accurate results. Do note that you will need to kepe recalibrating overtime (every 2-3 months) and the environment/ambient light will affect the readings so always calibrate in the ambient lighting you are working in. I have seen the entire process and yes it is quite tedious putting the meter over swatches of A4 paper reading calibration targets.. The worst part is that profile only work for that printer with that type of inks on that type of papper. Change one variable and it could be different.
It seems to me everyone is giving the thread starter the 'correct' advice. Well, it is correct to calibrate your printer and monitor to acheive consistant colour print with close to perfect accuracy. However, I feel that by giving advice like 'go buy a colorimeter' is kinda absurd because not everyone is willing or able to afford one.
Furthermore, it seems to me that the thread starter seems to be looking for an easy solution out of his printing woes without incuring much cost or the use of specialized hardware.
I don't consider myself to be a pro in this field, but I do print alot using dye-sub and inkjet printers for work. My workplace too cannot afford a monitor and printer colorimeter so this is how i usually go about to solve it, though i don't promise you that it would work for you.
Before you print, pls flatten your image (if you did post processing). Print out a copy using your printer of choice. Compare it with the picture on your monitor. Now add a colour balance layer on top of your picture. Adjust the colour of your picture on your computer until it resembles your printout. Then reverse the values. For example, if your printout is too yellowish, add yellow to the picutre in ps. Assuming that -10 in yellow will make your picture in ps similar to your printout, change that value to +10 (notice that the slider will jump from yellow to blue.) the same goes for the other 2 sliders. After reversing your values, apply the settings and print again.
Assuming that you did it correctly, the printout should be quite close to the original. Well, it works for me
If I'm not wrong, a user did mention in an earlier post that "Messing with the blue-yellow channel might turn your whites and grays bluish/yellowish though." It might be true or not true too. Since the whole picture (assumption) has a yellow cast, the white colour in the printout shoudl be yellow too.
Hope it works for you, but if it don't pls dun blame me... after all, i'm also a newbie like you... hehe^^
Furthermore, it seems to me that the thread starter seems to be looking for an easy solution out of his printing woes without incuring much cost or the use of specialized hardware.
I don't consider myself to be a pro in this field, but I do print alot using dye-sub and inkjet printers for work. My workplace too cannot afford a monitor and printer colorimeter so this is how i usually go about to solve it, though i don't promise you that it would work for you.
Before you print, pls flatten your image (if you did post processing). Print out a copy using your printer of choice. Compare it with the picture on your monitor. Now add a colour balance layer on top of your picture. Adjust the colour of your picture on your computer until it resembles your printout. Then reverse the values. For example, if your printout is too yellowish, add yellow to the picutre in ps. Assuming that -10 in yellow will make your picture in ps similar to your printout, change that value to +10 (notice that the slider will jump from yellow to blue.) the same goes for the other 2 sliders. After reversing your values, apply the settings and print again.
Assuming that you did it correctly, the printout should be quite close to the original. Well, it works for me
If I'm not wrong, a user did mention in an earlier post that "Messing with the blue-yellow channel might turn your whites and grays bluish/yellowish though." It might be true or not true too. Since the whole picture (assumption) has a yellow cast, the white colour in the printout shoudl be yellow too.
Hope it works for you, but if it don't pls dun blame me... after all, i'm also a newbie like you... hehe^^
Actually, I think you misinterpret the articles already. Yes, the printers do work in RGB colour spaces, but there is no such thing as RGB inks. RGB is an additive colour space while CMYK is a subtractive colour space. When the printer receives RGB data, it still have to convert the RGB data into how much C,Y,M,K ink you need to use to produce the same colour in RGB.
But RGB colour spaces are much much bigger than what CYMK inks can produce. When the printer encounters a RGB colour that the ink cannot produce, it will just find the closest colour that the inks can produce. How the printer converts RGB into CYMK inks is the data that you have in the printers colour profile.
So it's hard to compare the output from a printout to that of a RGB picture onscreen, because CYMK inks cannot produce the extreme colours available in RGB. You can use RGB to reproduce CYMK colours almost completely, but you can't use CYMK to reproduce RGB colours.
Although RIPs do the conversions for CYMK profiles, they are actually meant to do a lot more things. As the name goes, their main purpose is to rasterize vector text and graphic data into bitmap so that the printer can understand it in terms of pixels.
The extra tanks are meant to produce the colours that normal CMYK inks cannot produced. RGB is additive, when you shine equal amount of R,G,B light you get white. But when you mix equal amounts of C,Y,M inks (or R,G,B coloured inks for that matter), what you get is a muddy dark colour. The 2 processes are the exact opposite.
I agree with kgston's method - what i did was take a snapshot of a colour chart (or anything colourful), load into your PC and print out a copy. Then adjust your monitor colour to match the printout colour. It will not be 100% match because both media are different (LCD vs paper) but that is as good as it gets. So for future printing, you can trust the monitor on your colour adjustment. I did this and am happy with the results so far. However, you need to do this again when u replace your monitor, printer, ink type or paper brand.
Also to take note - the ambient light plays a role too. Will suggest you do the adjustment under a lighting condition near to daylight
Also to take note - the ambient light plays a role too. Will suggest you do the adjustment under a lighting condition near to daylight
Quoted from Apple:
Aperture supports only RGB printers, not CMYK printers. Now wait a second... Before you run out to buy a new printer, let's consider what that really means. This refers to the mode of the printer, not to the inks in the printer. Many printers that operate in RGB mode have inks that mimic the colors of the CMYK process. Aperture works fine with those printers. Generally speaking, ink jets and dye-sub printers are RGB; and color laser and imagesetters are CMYK.
Unquoted.
Aperture supports only RGB printers, not CMYK printers. Now wait a second... Before you run out to buy a new printer, let's consider what that really means. This refers to the mode of the printer, not to the inks in the printer. Many printers that operate in RGB mode have inks that mimic the colors of the CMYK process. Aperture works fine with those printers. Generally speaking, ink jets and dye-sub printers are RGB; and color laser and imagesetters are CMYK.
Unquoted.
Oh no......... just bought a new Canon 10 colour inkjet printer....... should just buy a 4 colour "CMYK inks printer".
I have sent my client's 500 photos to a Fuji Frontier colourlab for printing......... Fuji Frontier is also a RGB printer !!!
So where can I find a CMYK colourlab :dunno: PLEASE HELP!
I have sent my client's 500 photos to a Fuji Frontier colourlab for printing.........
Fuji Frontier is also a RGB printer !!!So where can I find a CMYK colourlab :dunno: PLEASE HELP!
I don't see why you are making a big fuss out of this. You have already said correctly that the mode of the printer works is in RGB, so how come you can't accept that the output is made using CYMK principles? Why would you need RGB colours to imitate CYMK colours? The CYMK colour space is so much smaller than RGB colour space. Shouldn't it be the other way round?
Granted that the later models of printer are having more and more colour ink tanks, but don't you see that the basic C,Y,M,K inks are still within the suite of inks? The extra inks are to make up for the parts of the RGB space that the C,Y,M,K inks cannot achieve, the majority of the colours from your printout are still made using your C,Y,M,K inks. Printer manufacturers call these colour spaces enhanced-CYMK or whatever fancy names they come up with. However no matter how many separate extra colours ink you add to the printer, there's still no way ink pigments can completely cover the RGB colour space.
You call a printer a RGB printer because it processes RGB files, not because the output is RGB. Have you ever seen a printer with just only R, G and B inks?
Granted that the later models of printer are having more and more colour ink tanks, but don't you see that the basic C,Y,M,K inks are still within the suite of inks? The extra inks are to make up for the parts of the RGB space that the C,Y,M,K inks cannot achieve, the majority of the colours from your printout are still made using your C,Y,M,K inks. Printer manufacturers call these colour spaces enhanced-CYMK or whatever fancy names they come up with. However no matter how many separate extra colours ink you add to the printer, there's still no way ink pigments can completely cover the RGB colour space.
You call a printer a RGB printer because it processes RGB files, not because the output is RGB. Have you ever seen a printer with just only R, G and B inks?
With regards to what you have underlined in red, they are talking about the colour mode, not the printing inks/process. Please give due respect to Prismatic as he is correct in his post, and you don't seem to get it that you may have got it wrong. Post #32 isn't helpful in the discussion. BTW I work as a print consultant.
I think this discussion has gone abit off tangent... let me attempt to clearify :embrass: :
printers accept RGB image... printers uses its ink to try to reproduce the colours in the image (it uses subtractive colour based on cyan, magenta, yellow, black, plus any other inks the company designed the printer with)... the printer would not match the RGB colours of the image in the same way as your screen cause the screen uses additive colour (red plus green plus blue gives white) but it will try its level best with what it has ... this is all well and good for information's sake, but for the sake of using the printer, its just good enough to know that inkjet and dye sub printers accept RGB image files
to ensure that colours from your screen and print are close, it's a good idea to profile both... and you don't need to purchase profiler for either... like I mentioned earlier, can just rent or borrow... you can do it in the way as described by kgston but on the other hand, it is like using adobe gamma to profile your screen... it is possible but your mileage may vary
printers accept RGB image... printers uses its ink to try to reproduce the colours in the image (it uses subtractive colour based on cyan, magenta, yellow, black, plus any other inks the company designed the printer with)... the printer would not match the RGB colours of the image in the same way as your screen cause the screen uses additive colour (red plus green plus blue gives white) but it will try its level best with what it has
... this is all well and good for information's sake, but for the sake of using the printer, its just good enough to know that inkjet and dye sub printers accept RGB image files to ensure that colours from your screen and print are close, it's a good idea to profile both... and you don't need to purchase profiler for either... like I mentioned earlier, can just rent or borrow... you can do it in the way as described by kgston but on the other hand, it is like using adobe gamma to profile your screen... it is possible but your mileage may vary
Well since TS asking help in colour management and we are talking about colour management workflow from camera to monitor to inkjet printer and NOT about inksets or inking technology of inkjet printer.
So in colour management, is a inkjet printer a RGB printer or CMYK printer?
According to Prismatic's post; his advice is to use CMYK profile in the workflow becos' of the CMYK inks in the inkjet printer:
http://forums.clubsnap.org/showpost.php?p=2970648&postcount=12
I am out of this!
*Please don't mixed-up desktop inkjet or Fuji Frontier printing with commerial offset printing which using CMYK in colour proofing and prints......
So in colour management, is a inkjet printer a RGB printer or CMYK printer?
According to Prismatic's post; his advice is to use CMYK profile in the workflow becos' of the CMYK inks in the inkjet printer:
http://forums.clubsnap.org/showpost.php?p=2970648&postcount=12
I am out of this!
*Please don't mixed-up desktop inkjet or Fuji Frontier printing with commerial offset printing which using CMYK in colour proofing and prints......
advices are all welcome...its individual....each of its own way! thanks for all who contribute to my questions and really appriciated....
as i am doing prints from my dye sub printers,i assume the color profile and the ink ribbon is constant n accurate.
SO IS IT ONLY THE BEST WAY: TO JUST CALIBRATE THE MONITORS???
cos i was so confuse,uncer the computer,control panel,gamma , color profile management,there is over 30 types of color profil to chose from...so who use that n what setting huh...pls advice....
BTW,noneed to urgue about tose cmyk or rgb.both comes out the same:color:bsmilie:
that not my issue.........................................................................
thanks for all who contribute to my questions and really appriciated....as i am doing prints from my dye sub printers,i assume the color profile and the ink ribbon is constant n accurate.
SO IS IT ONLY THE BEST WAY: TO JUST CALIBRATE THE MONITORS???
cos i was so confuse,uncer the computer,control panel,gamma , color profile management,there is over 30 types of color profil to chose from...so who use that n what setting huh...pls advice....
BTW,noneed to urgue about tose cmyk or rgb.both comes out the same:color:bsmilie:
that not my issue.........................................................................
Assuming you are using a normal consumer dye sub printer like the Canon selphy, I would recommend using the sRGB as your printer profile and leave the indent at perspective. Your monitor should always be set to sRGB unless your monitor comes with a colour profile. Then leave the rest of the printer settings to default.
For me anyway:
1) Calibrate your monitor / LCD. If no calibrator, use the manufacturer's profile. Else use some other software calibration.
2) <edit!>For inkjets, I leave the color to be whatever profile it is.
3) For printing, I use the inkjet printer's ICC profile. The ICC profiles should be on the CD that came with your inkjet/dye sub. These are calibrated to the inkjet/dye sub inks and its original paper. There are different ICC profiles for different paper and printers. Choose the right one for the paper you are using. (One of the reasons why we try to use original inks and papers). Though may not be as accurate as a custom profile (ink batches do vary), its cheaper then buying a printer calibrator. Anyway, its pretty close for me.
Maybe you can try this method (details in link below)? Its free and no harm trying. The last step is quite important.
A very good link to details of how to do this for Canon printers.... maybe considered the "lost scrolls of the mysterious ICC files on your CD....":bsmilie:
http://homepage.mac.com/renard/ls/Canon_ICC_Profile_Guide.pdf
1) Calibrate your monitor / LCD. If no calibrator, use the manufacturer's profile. Else use some other software calibration.
2) <edit!>For inkjets, I leave the color to be whatever profile it is.
3) For printing, I use the inkjet printer's ICC profile. The ICC profiles should be on the CD that came with your inkjet/dye sub. These are calibrated to the inkjet/dye sub inks and its original paper. There are different ICC profiles for different paper and printers. Choose the right one for the paper you are using. (One of the reasons why we try to use original inks and papers). Though may not be as accurate as a custom profile (ink batches do vary), its cheaper then buying a printer calibrator. Anyway, its pretty close for me.
Maybe you can try this method (details in link below)? Its free and no harm trying. The last step is quite important.
A very good link to details of how to do this for Canon printers.... maybe considered the "lost scrolls of the mysterious ICC files on your CD....":bsmilie:
http://homepage.mac.com/renard/ls/Canon_ICC_Profile_Guide.pdf
I think you need to convert ICC profile only when your original image is in adobeRGB... if in sRGB, don't need to cause most printer's default is sRGB input... but as always, I discourage the use of adobe RGB for prints because in general usage alot of your colour is lost, no matter what Canon or whoever claims otherwise... in Canon's plot from that pdf, the parts of the printer's gamut that is larger than sRGB is not very big, whereas the loss from converting from adobeRGB is huge and even from sRGB is also pretty big... the slight advantage gained might not really be worth the effort of a more complex workflow...
for colour profile of your monitor, if you don't have a custom profile, use the one that came with your monitor... won't be particularly accurate but better than nothing... best if you can custom profile your monitor with Spyder, EyeOne or similar products... sRGB is not a monitor profile, it is a colour space...
for colour profile of your monitor, if you don't have a custom profile, use the one that came with your monitor... won't be particularly accurate but better than nothing... best if you can custom profile your monitor with Spyder, EyeOne or similar products... sRGB is not a monitor profile, it is a colour space...
- Status
Similar threads
