hah good...i also need some film holders...i only have 2 now. I also looking at modifying a dark slide to only expose 2x5. so can do 2 exposures of 2x5 on a 4x5 film.I just brought some 4x5 Fidelity Elite film holders...
time to shoot some big films............
how come the "master virus" spread to you also
Billy
hah good...i also need some film holders...i only have 2 now. I also looking at modifying a dark slide to only expose 2x5. so can do 2 exposures of 2x5 on a 4x5 film.
all are masters....the other 2 masters finished their frames and chit chatting on the stone chairs and tables liao. haha
Bad news my grapfic got lost in the hurricane so I got a speedy refund and a heavy heart =(
else go to the Schmidt store at Ngee Ann City level 5. they carry the Berlebach wooden tripods. bet the price will match the rental rates there hahah
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see the tripods on the left?
bro,
get a 6x12 roll film back, easier to work with and film cost and development cost also cheaper.
I brought 4 pcs of the 4x5 film holder, self sufficient only... sorry, cannot sell you some... next time bah..
Billy
thanks for the lead to the film holder. for now, i keeping to B&W shanghai 100 4x5 film and self developing to keep cost low. the 6x12 back is a good idea so i will keep a look out for it . wow didnt realise a Dayi 6x17 back cost more than a entry level LF cam.![]()
i lightproof the bathroom and develop in the tray. i use a small tray so the sheets will sit on top of one another. Agitation is done by removing the most bottom sheet and overlaying on top of the top most sheet every few seconds. there are other methods that others uses but i made the least mistakes using the tray development method. having say that i looking to get a Paterson orbital http://www.rogerandfrances.com/photoschool/ps how orbital.html to do daylight developing.question :
do you use a 4x5 film developing tank? or you just put the film on a tray with developer and then shake shake shake....
i lightproof the bathroom and develop in the tray. i use a small tray so the sheets will sit on top of one another. Agitation is done by removing the most bottom sheet and overlaying on top of the top most sheet every few seconds. there are other methods that others uses but i made the least mistakes using the tray development method. having say that i looking to get a Paterson orbital http://www.rogerandfrances.com/photoschool/ps how orbital.html to do daylight developing.
sorry to hear that...a old loss maybe a new gain...
the Tachihara is still available i think! http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?p=776297#post776297
question :
do you use a 4x5 film developing tank? or you just put the film on a tray with developer and then shake shake shake....
Its possible to just use a 135 and 120 developing tank for a start if you do not have many pieces to develop or do not have the time to lightproof a room. A slight deviation from the taco method that works for me. Load the film with the emulsion side facing the center column, use 750ml of solution for a AP tank and develop as per normal.
Its possible to just use a 135 and 120 developing tank for a start if you do not have many pieces to develop or do not have the time to lightproof a room. A slight deviation from the taco method that works for me. Load the film with the emulsion side facing the center column, use 750ml of solution for a AP tank and develop as per normal.
As wootsk pointed out to me just now which I did not realise as everyone has a different developing technique. Just swirl the tank in spiral shape gently in alternating direction every 30s. Do not invert the tank during this developing process as the film may slip and stack to each other.