that is also a day light tank. you load the film in properly in the darkbag and then develop in daylight.
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that is also a day light tank. you load the film in properly in the darkbag and then develop in daylight.
wootsk
Deregistered
Ahhh, 4*5 developing tank sure brings bad memories.
My first developing set for 4*5 is 3 "dip tank" in a DIY changing box made from 2 big printer box overlaid and light sealed by garbage bag. The hand insert can be DIY from garbage bag, 2 thick rubber band and a few tapes. I uses those cheap long rectangle standing container for dip tank and they can develop up to 4 films at a go. To prevent the films from sticking, I uses clips on the edge of the film.
The idea is petty simple. I started with preparing the stop bath and fixer. I then prepare the developer and check that temperature that it is around 18 - 20 degree before loading everything into the changing box. The whole setup is infront of a digital clock for timing. (I cannot remove my hand out of the changing box till the whole process is done) Inside the changing box, I will remove all the films from the holder first before putting them into the tank. Timing starts when they enter the tank. So when they are done in developer. They get transfered to stop bath tank and then fixer tank.
For your info, the result that came out are good but I gave up after few trieds as it is too tedious and started thinking for better solution. That is when my mind came into the idea of using print drum for daylight developing. So far I find print drum one of the best DIY daylight method used after trying out other tanks like the HP tank and the jobo 4*5 film developing tank.
My first developing set for 4*5 is 3 "dip tank" in a DIY changing box made from 2 big printer box overlaid and light sealed by garbage bag. The hand insert can be DIY from garbage bag, 2 thick rubber band and a few tapes. I uses those cheap long rectangle standing container for dip tank and they can develop up to 4 films at a go. To prevent the films from sticking, I uses clips on the edge of the film.
The idea is petty simple. I started with preparing the stop bath and fixer. I then prepare the developer and check that temperature that it is around 18 - 20 degree before loading everything into the changing box. The whole setup is infront of a digital clock for timing. (I cannot remove my hand out of the changing box till the whole process is done) Inside the changing box, I will remove all the films from the holder first before putting them into the tank. Timing starts when they enter the tank. So when they are done in developer. They get transfered to stop bath tank and then fixer tank.
For your info, the result that came out are good but I gave up after few trieds as it is too tedious and started thinking for better solution. That is when my mind came into the idea of using print drum for daylight developing. So far I find print drum one of the best DIY daylight method used after trying out other tanks like the HP tank and the jobo 4*5 film developing tank.
OT - anyone lives near dover ? do you know is this pelican playground still around - http://remembersingapore.wordpress.com/dover-playground/ ? it said it is due for demolihed end of 2011.
I grew up playing on such a playground. i could even climb up to the top of the triangular block supporting the swing.
I grew up playing on such a playground. i could even climb up to the top of the triangular block supporting the swing.
I also once stay in Bedok and played in such playgrounds too 
side track a bit...
210mm
75mm
shot taken from the same location.
I can go wide now !!!!!
Billy
side track a bit...
210mm
75mm
shot taken from the same location.
I can go wide now !!!!!
Billy
Nikkornos
Senior Member
Wah, its that place deserted? I used to work at Kent Ridge and went there for lunch.
Sad huh, Singapore everything is giving way to new things.
When you plan to shoot there? I can only do in October. most like with a LF and shoot Fujichrome slides.
I also once stay in Bedok and played in such playgrounds too
side track a bit...
210mm
75mm
shot taken from the same location.
I can go wide now !!!!!
Billy
Billy, what's the depth of your recessed lens board?
Nikkornos
Senior Member
I also once stay in Bedok and played in such playgrounds too
side track a bit...
shot taken from the same location.
I can go wide now !!!!!
Billy
Song right? Now the group is building.
We must reorg when wootsk is back from Hk. Do a LF 75mm outing.
Have you tried on your 6X9 back already? Wonder how that compares with the Fuji 6x9.
wootsk
Deregistered
/2011/09/lf001.jpg[/img]
210mm
75mm
shot taken from the same location.
I can go wide now !!!!!
Billy
Master billy, your film back not horizon against the plane. If you are shooting a smaller format (I guess it is a polaroid), your IC don't need 162.5mm that much.
2 cents from the vege bird.
no sure bro.. will measure it tonight.
I do not have 6x9 back... I only have a 6x12 back. It can be masked to 6x9, 6x6, 6x45 also
I do not have fuji 6x9, I suppose you are referring to the rangefinder Fuji 6x9.
I have a friend that uses this cam, the composition is arga arga only, sometimes, you have to buy some insurance and frame the picture with some allowance, else you might end up regretting... haha..
my pocket is a big hole now....
- 75mm lens..
- Black and White filter ( sets of 4 )
- wide angle bellow
- 4x5 black and white film
- 4x5 film holders. ( 4 units )
OMG !!!!! :bigeyes:
I do not have 6x9 back... I only have a 6x12 back. It can be masked to 6x9, 6x6, 6x45 also
I do not have fuji 6x9, I suppose you are referring to the rangefinder Fuji 6x9.
I have a friend that uses this cam, the composition is arga arga only, sometimes, you have to buy some insurance and frame the picture with some allowance, else you might end up regretting... haha..
my pocket is a big hole now....
- 75mm lens..
- Black and White filter ( sets of 4 )
- wide angle bellow
- 4x5 black and white film
- 4x5 film holders. ( 4 units )
OMG !!!!! :bigeyes:
my lens cannot shift with existing bellow :cry:
that's why I am getting a wide angle bellow....
this is just a test shot for me to "song" a while... haha..
that's why I am getting a wide angle bellow....
this is just a test shot for me to "song" a while... haha..
Master billy, your film back not horizon against the plane. If you are shooting a smaller format (I guess it is a polaroid), your IC don't need 162.5mm that much.
2 cents from the vege bird.
wootsk
Deregistered
I think we better move fast on this. Anyone with any info on how is the estate status now? If still petty much untouched, can go and do some coverage of the area.
wootsk
Deregistered
I'm not really sure, but I think your recessed board gave around 30mm (from look), lens fLange is 82.5mm. Total distance for focal will be around 100mm+. You should still be having a bit of movement from my POV. If after correction, you find that the requirement for to focus is just a bit more. (The image is really just slightly blur). You can keep it there and stop down to F45 to cover the little bit unless you are shooting through something like a fence.
Just 2 cents from the noobish 菜鸟.
Last edited:
Nikkornos
Senior Member
I do have the Fujifilm GW690III ha ha ha. Bought new only ran 10+ rolls only.
Framing is ok. Large range finder.
Watch out for the expenses....
no hurry, there are many items on all the sites.
The right plan is still to get the good lenses first, which you already have.
Large format lenses are actually pretty good, regardless of brands.
Like you said, accessories are very important. I also know in USA who can make customized ground glass which is bright and cheap.
Nikkornos
Senior Member
I do have the Fujifilm GW690III ha ha ha. Bought new only ran 10+ rolls only.
Framing is ok. Large range finder.
Watch out for the expenses.... no hurry to commit.
no hurry, there are many items on all the sites.
The right plan is still to get the good lenses first, which you already have.
Large format lenses are actually pretty good, regardless of brands.
Like you said, accessories are very important. I also know in USA who can make customized ground glass which is bright and cheap.
have to go recee first to see the state of things there. have to move fast otherwise will be like queenstown
wootsk
Deregistered
Just visited Kgston place (I am turning into a regular visitor soon
) for some exchange of salt and a packet of green tea. Had a chat with him about possibility of combining developing with scanning. Meaning he collect 4*5 films from people who wants drum scan after sending slides to Lo Sheng for developing. He is considering the lower end $20 scan request, but I am suggesting him wet mounting for it as well and factor in a few more bucks to cover cost for the wet mounting fluid as well. I am thinking in the mindset of how many 4*5 shooters are there as well as the frequency of shooting the films and even lesser for slides. Also some other projects about C-41 films, but I will need more info... SHhhh!!!
Anyway to clarify the issue which I am confused initially with why he replied that one pass is alot much better. After thinking, he has been typing it while being lost with the idea of a dedicated scanner like Coolscan where there is a lens inside.:sweat:
Ya also, I still got the metabisulfite in my fridge, estimated of close to 100g left. I am not sure where I gotten it from really.:sweat: I will continue my test with fine tuning HC110 till my PQ is here to resume my developing. Sadly I don't think scan can see a big different between a reversal processed and normal processed too much except catching flaws in failure for reversal. If you are interested in the result after fine tune, you have to prepare another packet of chilled green tea.
) for some exchange of salt and a packet of green tea. Had a chat with him about possibility of combining developing with scanning. Meaning he collect 4*5 films from people who wants drum scan after sending slides to Lo Sheng for developing. He is considering the lower end $20 scan request, but I am suggesting him wet mounting for it as well and factor in a few more bucks to cover cost for the wet mounting fluid as well. I am thinking in the mindset of how many 4*5 shooters are there as well as the frequency of shooting the films and even lesser for slides. Also some other projects about C-41 films, but I will need more info... SHhhh!!!Have to agree with lkkang that scanning in one pass is always better as pointed out by his reasons. But its really a matter of cost vs effort.
Just my 2 cents
Anyway to clarify the issue which I am confused initially with why he replied that one pass is alot much better. After thinking, he has been typing it while being lost with the idea of a dedicated scanner like Coolscan where there is a lens inside.:sweat:
Ya also, I still got the metabisulfite in my fridge, estimated of close to 100g left. I am not sure where I gotten it from really.:sweat: I will continue my test with fine tuning HC110 till my PQ is here to resume my developing. Sadly I don't think scan can see a big different between a reversal processed and normal processed too much except catching flaws in failure for reversal. If you are interested in the result after fine tune, you have to prepare another packet of chilled green tea.
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