E-M5 Owner - Comments, Critique, Reviews, and what-nots :-)


I have Panasonic 25mm 1.4, Olympus 45mm 1.8, and Olympus 12mm 2.0. If you want fast autofocus, it has to be Panasonic Leica 25mm f/1.4. Should be great to use for taking your baby.

For me, I have Panasonic 20mm f1.7 on my e-m5 most of the time because of its focal length and compactness.

Yeah I love the 20mm 1.7 for its size too. But I feel autofocus is slow. How would you compare 25mm vs 20mm autofocus? Is the difference noticeable? Because if not then I couldnt justify the jump from 20mm to 25mm which is more expensive. My main point of upgrading would be autofocus speed.
 

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jin06 said:
Yeah I love the 20mm 1.7 for its size too. But I feel autofocus is slow. How would you compare 25mm vs 20mm autofocus? Is the difference noticeable? Because if not then I couldnt justify the jump from 20mm to 25mm which is more expensive. My main point of upgrading would be autofocus speed.

Yes the difference is noticeable. I upgraded becos of the AF speed.
 

Hi

Any one encountered this phenomenon before? I set IS to on during live preview and I noticed whenever I half press the shutter release and move the camera (drastically) to reframe, the IS goes crazy and makes weird sounds.
 

what sort of weird sounds? seem mine is ok. not going crazy.
 

You can hear the is working and the image jerks as you move. Happens in video mode too
 

Hi

Any one encountered this phenomenon before? I set IS to on during live preview and I noticed whenever I half press the shutter release and move the camera (drastically) to reframe, the IS goes crazy and makes weird sounds.

The IS mechanism has mistaken your reframing movement as hand shaking. Thus it tries to compensate for it. When it realises that you actually WANT to move the camera, it releases the sensor, thus causing jerkiness and weird sounds.

Instead of focus-and-reframe, try selecting the AF area instead.
 

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So this is normal? Thanks!
Yes it is quite normal. I noticed this behavior too as I prefer to half-press the shutter release to activate the IS for steadier framing. But minor adjustments become very difficult as the IS will assume that it is an unwanted movement. Especially if I am using the electronic level and want to make the horizon perfectly horizontal.
 

I decided that I had enough of the grayed-out EVF Refresh Rate issue, so I gave Olympus CSC a call. The gentleman on the phone sounded quite surprised and hadn't heard of the problem before. However we both suspect it is a software-related issue. I was asked to bring my camera to CSC to have it inspected, so I won't have any answer until weekend at least. Stay tuned for the outcome!

Finally I discovered the root cause of the issue: i-Enhance.

EVF Refresh Rate will default back to "Normal" (i.e. 60Hz) if you choose the i-Enhance picture mode, or choose i-Enhance in Custom picture mode. It does not matter if you have already set the EVF Refresh Rate to "High" (i.e. 120Hz). The setting will switch back and become grey.

Too bad it took me a full reset to discover. Had to spend an hour redoing all the settings and calibrating the electronic level on my tripod. But at least it saved me a trip to Valley Point!
 

I noticed that when I switched to manual mode and adjusted the Aperture, the exposure compensation will adjusted accordingly. Is this normal ? Is there any way to disable it ?
 

I noticed that when I switched to manual mode and adjusted the Aperture, the exposure compensation will adjusted accordingly. Is this normal ? Is there any way to disable it ?

Any DSLR's EV will react this way as it is telling the user how much over/under expose you are setting manually.
You can't disabled it.
 

Jedi R said:
I noticed that when I switched to manual mode and adjusted the Aperture, the exposure compensation will adjusted accordingly. Is this normal ? Is there any way to disable it ?

It's not exposure compensation that's adjusted. It's the light meter in the camera that tells you if you are over exposed or under exposed. Try switching to centre weight metering or spot metering mode instead of matrix pattern metering, it will give you different reading in the over/under scale.

When you are on M, everything is in your own hands. so your shutter speed, aperture, ISO, will be the only determining factor of your shot.
Of course there is still white balance which is still auto even in M mode. Unless you set it manually otherwise.
 

Any one who update the new firmware yet?
I had two units Of em-5. One black one one sliver.
Update is smooth for my black one. But not luck for the silver one. It update halfway and blackout and not moving at all.
Now at customer service they said I'm update wrong. Strange. Same method of update. Sliver can't. They suspect the main board burnt? Now checking and waiting for the results.
Any kaki has this experience before.
 

Any one who update the new firmware yet?
I had two units Of em-5. One black one one sliver.
Update is smooth for my black one. But not luck for the silver one. It update halfway and blackout and not moving at all.
Now at customer service they said I'm update wrong. Strange. Same method of update. Sliver can't. They suspect the main board burnt? Now checking and waiting for the results.
Any kaki has this experience before.

Silver, updated ... no issue.
 

Any one who update the new firmware yet?
I had two units Of em-5. One black one one sliver.
Update is smooth for my black one. But not luck for the silver one. It update halfway and blackout and not moving at all.
Now at customer service they said I'm update wrong. Strange. Same method of update. Sliver can't. They suspect the main board burnt? Now checking and waiting for the results.
Any kaki has this experience before.

No problem on my silver with 45mm attached.
 

milez said:
Silver, updated ... no issue.

Got the solution. Reload firmware at service center. May be no enough battery power. Please beware of battery level. MUST BE FULL.
 

Got the solution. Reload firmware at service center. May be no enough battery power. Please beware of battery level. MUST BE FULL.

Did you have to pay for the reloading of firmware?

Full battery is a pre-requisite for firmware update, as stated when you launched the Olympus Digital Camera Updater (ODCU).
Also, to note when updating is... it must be connected DIRECTLY to the USB socket of your PC, and not via USB hub.
If update from desktop PC, to prevent bricking the camera during update due to power trip/failure, it is good to have UPS for your PC. Or better still update from laptop (with battery power + external power).
 

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