Errr.....quite a costly way to get a spare battery tho'.....hehehe
E-M5 Owner - Comments, Critique, Reviews, and what-nots :-)
- Thread starter Oly5050
- Start date
Errr.....quite a costly way to get a spare battery tho'.....hehehe
If you haven't paid yet, I would be happy to take on that orderlet me know...
Ill take that order too. Just sold my omd black. Getting thr silver to match my Len. Pm me!
Apparently not by a far shot
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i think v. subjective.. their jpeg is very gd, thou not v. accurate currents, but their film settings are impressive.
omd i feel personally the color is more neutral, and do more sharpening somehow?
raw wise... you can compare their red color.. make a big difference on the same thing. (with my eyes)
st3v4nt
New Member
Well they test it using X-Rite color checker and output it through Imatest: Colour Error, guess the 'richer' color not necessarily mean accurate.
NazgulKing
Senior Member
Question: How do you meter the EM-5? The camera has a habit of metering for shadows and the highlights can be tad overblown.
I am also beginning to note this. But still cant pinpoint the issue - but i note that nowadays for scenes with HUGE contrasts, i find myself doing a lot more PP for pics from the E-M5 as compared to pics from my Canon 7D. Maybe its time for me to go M mode hahaha and learn photography all over.
NazgulKing
Senior Member
What I do is I underexpose as appropriate, varying from scene to scene. I suspect this is more of an issue with the metering algorithm. If I underexpose, I could expose more in Lightroom later. Now of course this is not the most ideal way to approach it, but that's the only way I can think of to compensate. The other way which I have yet to experiment yet is to indulge in playing around with the gradation.
For example:
Let the camera meter, we get globs:
_5250235 by NazgulKing, on Flickr
If i deliberately underexpose, I get less globs, but of course there appears that there's nothing to recover from the shadows.
_5250237 by NazgulKing, on Flickr
OR... So I thought:
_5250237a by NazgulKing, on Flickr
Usually i half shutter to AEL the scene I want before shoot for high DR situations. And with EM5, i turn Gradation to Auto, it used to be this setting will bump up the shadows with some noise (even at lowest ISO) on previous Pens which I dun like & I turn it to normal, it helps increase DR. On EM5 seems to be better, at least yet to see a picture that's gone that wrong. alternatively, -1/3 EV if you feel it's a concern? On previous Pen, blown highlights are even more common. Hope that helps.
NazgulKing
Senior Member
Normally I compensate (-1/3 to -1 EV) as appropriate. It's the same with the Ricohs in some ways, as they tend to really follow the "expose to the right" rule rather draconianly.
My Fn1 button is assign to AEL. I want to lock the exposure and recompose the image, can any brother here kindly englighten me how to do it. Because when I half press the button, the exposure is lock, when I release it and want to press the Fn1 to lock the exposure, nothing happen. (no AEL icon show). The Fn1 button is working when I assign to other function. Million thanks in advance.
i just got my silver omd, something is different from the black one. i think i didn't set the settings correctly.
when i put Fn1 as magnify, in the past i can focus in x14 magnification,
but now whenever i half press the shutter it goes back to normal magnification.
anyone knows how to troubleshoot this? Thanks!
when i put Fn1 as magnify, in the past i can focus in x14 magnification,
but now whenever i half press the shutter it goes back to normal magnification.
anyone knows how to troubleshoot this? Thanks!
From my eyes, i feel that m43 always got the highlights blown out. (based on my GF1 and borrowed EP1, and now a EM-5).
So, using the GF1/EP1, i usually do a min of -1/3ev.
However, with EM-5, what i do is, I do not adjust the ev that much.
Instead, i use the tone curve to compensate. So, i usually set a min of highlights "-2" or "-3".
This way, i feel the highlights dont get blown out with the camera metering and the shadow areas are more well-exposed.
Of coz, if the conditions to challenging, then its back to trial&error if i want to use the auto grad and under/over compensation.
Or back to a bit more basic and do bracketing at different exposure to pp later on.
So, using the GF1/EP1, i usually do a min of -1/3ev.
However, with EM-5, what i do is, I do not adjust the ev that much.
Instead, i use the tone curve to compensate. So, i usually set a min of highlights "-2" or "-3".
This way, i feel the highlights dont get blown out with the camera metering and the shadow areas are more well-exposed.
Of coz, if the conditions to challenging, then its back to trial&error if i want to use the auto grad and under/over compensation.
Or back to a bit more basic and do bracketing at different exposure to pp later on.
i spent quite a while but whenever i half press shutter the magnification goes off before it AF.. anyone can help me?
