D7000 user...fall in!!! Part 2

[twisted illusion]

which position of the dial huh?
i mainly use either U1 or U2...
for my U1 (base is M) which is mainly for people... i set 3200 max and 1/60...
for my U2 (base is M) which is mainly for people with flash... i set 800 max and 1/60...
for sudden last minutes urgent snaps where there is no time to watch over the exposure meter, i uses P.. all setting never alter...
this is just me...

Bros, new to this thread. What is the recommended Max. Sensitivity Value and Min Shutter Speed when choose Auto ISO sensitivity control for general and portraiture shootings. Or is it better just to Auto ISO.
Please advise.

 

[Nostalgraphy]

Got mine at iPhoto for 1630, body only 2 months ago

Got mine from iPhoto when D7K was released at $1,700, so it is $1630 now!!!??? Grrrr..... anyway, I find iPhoto price quite reasonable. His prices for lenses also better than most. I almsot wanted to buy D700 and he quoted $2,850 then - which I consider a really good bargain compared to most other shops. The guy who served me was Raymond, great guy. I actually look for him everytime I have accessories need and he tends to give me better pricing then his fellow colleagues.

 

[Nostalgraphy]

Hi to fellow D7k user.
I also just got the D7k.
Has anybody try out the Tamron 17-50mm with SB-700 flash?
Any problem?
Is the Tamron 17-50mm a better Lens compare to the 18-105mm kit lens?

Thanks

Not sure what is the reason you ask about Tamron 17-50mm with SB700 but I have the SB700 which I seldom used. But when I used it, it works great. At least for the price, I find it sufficient for me and no need to go to SB900. In fact, there are a few friends of mine who bought the D7K with SB600 and quite honestly, I find it sufficient too. So, in case your question is if SB700 works fine with D7K, my response is it works perfectly, but at my level, I could have settled for SB600 (Perhaps even Nissin or other China brand).

Also not too sure about your comparison between Nikon 18-105 vs Tamron 17-50. They target different group. if you shoot at F4-5.6 most of the time, 18-105 works great and all my friends have great photo with it. The 17-50 f/2.8 competition is against Nikon 17-55 f/2.8. It is for people like me who has a DX body, wants to shoot at f/2.8 but "head not big enuf cannot wear big hat". So I have to forgo FX 16-35 f/2.8. So, there are really a lot of "it depends" factor that you need to consider. If you are keen in f/2.8 lenses at this range, Sigma 17-50 OS HSM is more recommended IMO.

Others feel free to correct me if I am wrong

 

[Nostalgraphy]

which position of the dial huh?
i mainly use either U1 or U2...
for my U1 (base is M) which is mainly for people... i set 3200 max and 1/60...
for my U2 (base is M) which is mainly for people with flash... i set 800 max and 1/60...
for sudden last minutes urgent snaps where there is no time to watch over the exposure meter, i uses P.. all setting never alter...
this is just me...

Hmm.... Twisted Illusion, I beg to differ in your recommendation.

Firstly, there is not hard and fast rule to set ISO, aperture and shuttle speed because it depends on many factors and one would need to first understand what these function are for and adjust them to the best of their ability to shoot a "perfect" picture. One has to consider so many options, e.g. metering, WB, EV etc. It comes with a lot of practice after that, an area I am clearly lacking.
Secondly, U1 and U2 are customize dial and you can set it to whatever setting you wish. U1 is not for people and neither is U2 for people with flash. It is basically customize mode so that you don't have to meddle with setting when you need it and use it very often.

 

[donnyeo81]

any one using fish eye and wide angel?
can share the model and price? hope can post some photo also with the setting uses..

 

[joekohys]

Thank bros for your input. I read somewhere and thought perhaps limit the ISO to about 800 would assure no noise and set flash sync speed to 1/250 would prevent camera shake. So when I bought D7K I wonder if I should also limit the ISO and Flash sync speed setting? Very new to DSLR photography. Wonder if I should also buy SB700?

 

[Shakespeare0905]

Hi to fellow D7k user.
I also just got the D7k.
Has anybody try out the Tamron 17-50mm with SB-700 flash?
Any problem?
Is the Tamron 17-50mm a better Lens compare to the 18-105mm kit lens?

Thanks

I'm using the setup. I feel for me is enough. I took pics during my cousin wedding and i feel the colour for me is just nice. =}

 

[google]

Hmm.... Twisted Illusion, I beg to differ in your recommendation.

Firstly, there is not hard and fast rule to set ISO, aperture and shuttle speed because it depends on many factors and one would need to first understand what these function are for and adjust them to the best of their ability to shoot a "perfect" picture. One has to consider so many options, e.g. metering, WB, EV etc. It comes with a lot of practice after that, an area I am clearly lacking.
Secondly, U1 and U2 are customize dial and you can set it to whatever setting you wish. U1 is not for people and neither is U2 for people with flash. It is basically customize mode so that you don't have to meddle with setting when you need it and use it very often.

Hi, Normally the U1 and U2 mode,

I set it for fast action ...

Like shoot bird or shoot children running ...

 

[Nostalgraphy]

Hi, Normally the U1 and U2 mode,

I set it for fast action ...

Like shoot bird or shoot children running ...

There you go, it is a personal choice. So in your case, you set it to action mode to capture action. For me, I set it to night scene for landscape which I probably use most often.

 

[Nostalgraphy]

Thank bros for your input. I read somewhere and thought perhaps limit the ISO to about 800 would assure no noise and set flash sync speed to 1/250 would prevent camera shake. So when I bought D7K I wonder if I should also limit the ISO and Flash sync speed setting? Very new to DSLR photography. Wonder if I should also buy SB700?

I am far from being an expert but I do read a bit to compensate for my ignorance. Other than testing out the gadget to test the noise level, I have only setup to ISO800 in one occassion - concert where I can't use flash and it is really dark. When testing shots for fun, I have to say that D7K really handles the noise level quite well even at 6400. I have not tried beyond that because with my limited knowledge, I cannot visualize needing to do that. Otherwise, all my shots are 400, 200 and 100. The rest, I would meddle with either my aperture, shuttle (or both in manual), metering, EV, WB etc. But again, no hard and fast rule. You just have to do a lot of online research like me if you don't want to invest in books. The other two sources of learning would be to try different combination and review it on your PC to see what may have caused the differences and probably the last option, learn from people who are good at it. Sometimes, one or two photo buff would give me a tips or two and in other times, many nice people in CS would share with us their knowledge. At the end of the day, don't give up if you don't do well - I have incredible amount of poor shots and sometimes, all you need is one person sharing to turn on the light.
I may be wrong, but I am not sure why the site you reference would associate setting ISO and flash sync speed to camera shake. Camera shake, to me, can only either be your hands stability or the lens VR function capability. I recently receive a very good recommendation from some CSer to go shooting with some more advance photographer (because of my new interest in Macro) and would in turn, recommend you to consider the same by signning up some of the available session in CS as well.

Go to the field and start shooting already! Have fun!

 

[joekohys]

Thank you bro for your sharing. Will look out to join seniors for a field shoot.

 

[Nostalgraphy]

Thank you bro for your sharing. Will look out to join seniors for a field shoot.

Hey Joekohys, there is an on going discussion on ISO under the following thread "Puzzling EXIF data question for NIkon D3S camera". The sharing by a few seniors is very interesting and you may want to take a look at it. They toy with really high ISO and it begin to shed some lights on your earlier topic about camera shake. Hope I didn't mislead you in any of my sharing but about to try some of what they share to see how it turns out this weekend! CS IS JUST AN AWESOME SITE!

 

[joekohys]

Hi Nostalgraphy. Just visited the thread. Thank for your input.

 

[TonyOng]

Would like to check ar.. For raw.. Compressed and no compress got wat effect to the photo taken?

 

[Cowseye]

Would like to check ar.. For raw.. Compressed and no compress got wat effect to the photo taken?

Very minor difference. thought the 14bit lossless compress will gives you more recoverable details in low light and overexposed portion of a picture.

 

[TonyOng]

Very minor difference. thought the 14bit lossless compress will gives you more recoverable details in low light and overexposed portion of a picture.

I see. Thanks for the prompt reply.. So its more advisable to stick to 14bit lossless? As u can see I jus upgraded to d7000 from my d60.. Abit not use to the big file size that the d7000 raw file is.. The number of shots left shown was 200+ 300 like tt compared to the d60 one was 600+ for 8gb card..

 

[Cowseye]

14bit lossless takes longer time to save/write to memory card. Your FPS drops by a lot when you do that (tested this personally). I feel it's usable for one shot situation, others that demands rapid fire should stay with 12bit lossless.

 

[Cowseye]

Use 16GB class 6 cards, duo cards if u need data overflow or pure kiasu backup. Having 2 cards proofs to be useful and flexible in lots of situations.

 

[hybee]

Not sure what is the reason you ask about Tamron 17-50mm with SB700 but I have the SB700 which I seldom used. But when I used it, it works great. At least for the price, I find it sufficient for me and no need to go to SB900. In fact, there are a few friends of mine who bought the D7K with SB600 and quite honestly, I find it sufficient too. So, in case your question is if SB700 works fine with D7K, my response is it works perfectly, but at my level, I could have settled for SB600 (Perhaps even Nissin or other China brand).

Also not too sure about your comparison between Nikon 18-105 vs Tamron 17-50. They target different group. if you shoot at F4-5.6 most of the time, 18-105 works great and all my friends have great photo with it. The 17-50 f/2.8 competition is against Nikon 17-55 f/2.8. It is for people like me who has a DX body, wants to shoot at f/2.8 but "head not big enuf cannot wear big hat". So I have to forgo FX 16-35 f/2.8. So, there are really a lot of "it depends" factor that you need to consider. If you are keen in f/2.8 lenses at this range, Sigma 17-50 OS HSM is more recommended IMO.

Others feel free to correct me if I am wrong

My question maybe unclear.
My friend uses a Tamron lens with his Sxxx Dslr. And he told me that flash photography is not accurate.
Exposure not correct.
I am just worry that Tamron and Nikon might have this problem.

Thanks

 

[Nostalgraphy]

My question maybe unclear.
My friend uses a Tamron lens with his Sxxx Dslr. And he told me that flash photography is not accurate.
Exposure not correct.
I am just worry that Tamron and Nikon might have this problem.

Thanks

I see. Wish I could help but no experience with the dual combination. Perhaps to rent the lens and try it out? You can test the flash FOC at Nikon Showroom.