Comex (Pentax Booth)

[creampuff]

Wah fengwei, now got F-factor in your honour! Got your SMS on the SD cards but somehow got it late.

airconvent, must go shoot on the first day to shoot. The ladies no doubt look and feel tired standing the whole day. Zoom in and get closer to frame the face and shoot a wide aperture for subject isolation.

 

[airconvent]

The pic turns out yellowish. Maybe next time you want to take a test shot first, check your WB and adjust accordingly or best shoot in Raw.
Maybe you want to include the booth as background that's why you shoot in Landscape, or else next time shoot in Potrait to have a tighter crop.
The cutting off at part of arms here and there looks a bit awkward to me. You are using zoom lens, so it's more flexible to compose than using a prime.

Thanks Desmond. Autobalance always gives this colour under these ambiguous lighting conditions.
There's only one shade of tungsten in the setting and so many "clouds" settings. I suppose I need to shoot into a white coffee filter to get the manual balance? There wasn't much time to do much as I was rushing (and perspiring!) throught the shot. So in your opinion either I shoot the whole arm or not at all, huh...let me do a crop and see how it goes. I do wanted to do raw but its so inconvenient to process all the images after the event...its so slow and each image has to be processed individually...

IMHO, focus at the eyes and recompose. Maybe you can use the multisegment metering and switch to the nearest focusing point nearer to the eyes. I find that multi segment sometimes hunts a bit so I'm used to center focus and recompose.
Exposure maybe need a +0.3 but can play around on PS curves during editing.
Get nearer, crop tighter and use portrait instead of landscape.
I normally use Av mode so for portraiture(mainly animals! hahaha) I'd use a stop or more from the biggest aperture if the lighting allows, eg f3.5 on a f2.8 lens for sharper photos.

Hi, I tend to use spot metering because I do not know how to use the others.. Ever since I realised the +EV thingy actually stretches the shutter delay and not much else, I have stopped using them....on one occasion I set the compensation very high and the shutter speed insisted on being 1 sec even in low light! yeah...want to go nearer but a bit paiseh. the girl already show she not interested but forced to pose so I do not want to push it further...I agree the images are sharper 1 or 2 stops from max but when you're shooting in P mode, it automatically goes to f/2.8 due to low light..

and thanks alex and fengwei for the tips too. I do wanted to keep some of the background to show its a pentax booth but somehow I was at the wrong angle...next PC show I go with you and do a monkey-see-monkey-do routine...heh heh

 

[the mac 13]

Hi, I tend to use spot metering because I do not know how to use the others.. Ever since I realised the +EV thingy actually stretches the shutter delay and not much else, I have stopped using them....on one occasion I set the compensation very high and the shutter speed insisted on being 1 sec even in low light! yeah...want to go nearer but a bit paiseh. the girl already show she not interested but forced to pose so I do not want to push it further...I agree the images are sharper 1 or 2 stops from max but when you're shooting in P mode, it automatically goes to f/2.8 due to low light..

Spot metering, as the name suggest, meters at a current spot. In the K100D(I believe you are using this camera) it is the centre of the viewfinder. Say you place the centre at a model's face, it would measure the light bouncing off the model's face and expose properly for that, instead of the other areas. Refer to page 136 of the manual for other metering mode.

This is subjective, but I always find that photos shot using multi-segment metering tend to be under exposed. So now I use centre or spot metering.

If you use exposure compansation(+-EV thingg) and use Auto ISO on the K100D, it would automatically jump to ISO 200(K100D stuff). Naturally, if it is in a low light zone, the camera would pump the ISO higher(at Auto ISO) but since you adjusted the exposure using +EV thingy, it would jump to ISO 200. So that's why it went to 1 sec. The result of 1 sec is the case of wrong combination, ISO 200 in a low light place.

The solution? Manually set the ISO and then play with the '+EV thingy'

 

[southernoise]

Hi, I tend to use spot metering because I do not know how to use the others.. Ever since I realised the +EV thingy actually stretches the shutter delay and not much else, I have stopped using them....on one occasion I set the compensation very high and the shutter speed insisted on being 1 sec even in low light! yeah...want to go nearer but a bit paiseh. the girl already show she not interested but forced to pose so I do not want to push it further...I agree the images are sharper 1 or 2 stops from max but when you're shooting in P mode, it automatically goes to f/2.8 due to low light..

my bad, i wanted to say multisegment focusing but it came out as metering.

if you're using spot metering, then meter on the models, lock and then recompose. The models should appear well exposed. There is a function somewhere in the Custom menu that allows you to lock the exposure with the focusing.

I use Av mode 90% of the time and the rest manual mode. I like to control my aperture and manually play with the ISO instead of letting the camera decide for me. Never use the auto scene modes before.

cheers,

 

[the mac 13]

if you're using spot metering, then meter on the models, lock and then recompose. The models should appear well exposed. There is a function somewhere in the Custom menu that allows you to lock the exposure with the focusing.

In this case, maybe it's faster/convenient to use Exposure lock button.:thumbsup:

 

[airconvent]

If you use exposure compansation(+-EV thingg) and use Auto ISO on the K100D, it would automatically jump to ISO 200(K100D stuff). Naturally, if it is in a low light zone, the camera would pump the ISO higher(at Auto ISO) but since you adjusted the exposure using +EV thingy, it would jump to ISO 200. So that's why it went to 1 sec. The result of 1 sec is the case of wrong combination, ISO 200 in a low light place.
The solution? Manually set the ISO and then play with the '+EV thingy'

Thanks Mac.
Proves I can't read the manual properly! At least I know now....I usually use spot metering and focus on the eyes as per recommendations but as you can see, the images do not look that sharp and a little dark. Next time I will stop it down a little but that would defeat the original intention to get a fast lens.

 

[the mac 13]

Thanks Mac.
Proves I can't read the manual properly! At least I know now....I usually use spot metering and focus on the eyes as per recommendations but as you can see, the images do not look that sharp and a little dark. Next time I will stop it down a little but that would defeat the original intention to get a fast lens.

Well what I suggest, if you are shooting models, it's fine to use spot metering. When using this mode on models, meter the face(may I suggest, the nose bridge) and fire away or recompose(if you do this remember to lock exposure)

Do try centre weighted metering for shooting, maybe you would see an improvement in photo exposure. In this case, just frame as how you want it to be and fire away!

 

[southernoise]

In this case, maybe it's faster/convenient to use Exposure lock button.:thumbsup:

Oh yes of course but that custom setting is set once and it locks exposure with focus all the time.

 

[southernoise]

Thanks Mac.
Proves I can't read the manual properly! At least I know now....I usually use spot metering and focus on the eyes as per recommendations but as you can see, the images do not look that sharp and a little dark. Next time I will stop it down a little but that would defeat the original intention to get a fast lens.

maybe stop using autopic mode and start playing with Av +/- exposure. ;p Handshake also comes into play.

I realise that most of my fast lens are reasonably sharp when stop down 1 stop, but the FA50 1.4 is a gem lah... heh heh.

 

[piyoz]

Hi, I might be getting a K100D super later from the Manly. He say the package still valid. But because I still already have a rechargeable battery kit, I ask for exchange to something else, he say can only exchange for a UV filter (he say its about $30+) i'm new and don't know the price for filter so not sure if its the real price. if not he say can only minus off $10+ for it. Can advise whether which is better option??

 

[Snowywolf]

Hi, I might be getting a K100D super later from the Manly. He say the package still valid. But because I still already have a rechargeable battery kit, I ask for exchange to something else, he say can only exchange for a UV filter (he say its about $30+) i'm new and don't know the price for filter so not sure if its the real price. if not he say can only minus off $10+ for it. Can advise whether which is better option??

dont get the UV filter..
u can easily get a hoya UV filter 52mm for $10..
so dont be bought in by the sales person.

check out which filter he's providing first..

 

[piyoz]

HI snowywolf,

Thanks for your advise.

 

[Snowywolf]

HI snowywolf,

Thanks for your advise.

no prob dudette..

 

[flowerpot]

Hi, I might be getting a K100D super later from the Manly. He say the package still valid. But because I still already have a rechargeable battery kit, I ask for exchange to something else, he say can only exchange for a UV filter (he say its about $30+) i'm new and don't know the price for filter so not sure if its the real price. if not he say can only minus off $10+ for it. Can advise whether which is better option??

K100 super with kit lens ~1K package??

where is manly ?? i oso interested ley...

 

[the mac 13]

Hi, I might be getting a K100D super later from the Manly. He say the package still valid. But because I still already have a rechargeable battery kit, I ask for exchange to something else, he say can only exchange for a UV filter (he say its about $30+) i'm new and don't know the price for filter so not sure if its the real price. if not he say can only minus off $10+ for it. Can advise whether which is better option??

Memory card. I got my Hoya 52mm UV at SGD 8.

 

[piyoz]

K100 super with kit lens ~1K package??

where is manly ?? i oso interested ley...

Manly is at 24 Pagoda street. The price for single kit and freebies like the COMEX (I've checked with Shriro, they are the only shop to have the K100D super for the time being. Maybe in a week or two then other shops will have)

Memory card. I got my Hoya 52mm UV at SGD 8.

Memory card? Thats a good idea.:thumbsup: Btw, where did you get the Hoya from? Cheap leh.

Can I just check from those doing GND, where do you buy the thing from? Also do you just hold it infront of the lens? Or is there something we can buy to hold it infront of the lens? Thanks in advance.

 

[airconvent]

According to shriro website, Manly Department Store is at 24 Temple Street while Max photo is at 72, pagoda street.

Check out the other dealers here :
http://www.shriro.com.sg/authorised.htm

 

[piyoz]

I was given this address by the shop although i know that the address you've given is correct....

 

[istDeS]

According to shriro website, Manly Department Store is at 24 Temple Street while Max photo is at 72, pagoda street.

Check out the other dealers here :
http://www.shriro.com.sg/authorised.htm

I saw the namecard before, they actually have 3 addresses.:bsmilie:

 

[flowerpot]

Manly is at 24 Pagoda street. The price for single kit and freebies like the COMEX (I've checked with Shriro, they are the only shop to have the K100D super for the time being. Maybe in a week or two then other shops will have)

Thanks for the information. If you bought liao, dun mind share the price. I oso consider getting 1. Thanks.