TOKYO Each day before dawn, the worlds largest fish market comes to life in frantic activity, a last holdout of an older, quainter Japan. In one corner, auctioneers loudly hawk the frozen torsos of prize tuna laid on the floor. Nearby, fishmongers in open-air stalls carve the tuna flesh into bricks for sale to sushi bars and grocers.
Soon, it will be gone. The city is planning to spend US$4.5 billion (S$5.7 billion) to relocate the market nicknamed Tsukiji for the neighbourhood that surrounds it to a modern, climate-controlled distribution centre on a man-made island in three years. The move is part of a broader face-lift Tokyo is planning before the 2020 Olympics.
For the many who have opposed the change, the relocation will bring not only the loss of a historic, 78-year-old marketplace, but also another blow to a vanishing way of life.
Tsukiji has been a place where merchants haggled face to face, and where even the lowliest fishmonger displayed the obsession with freshness that helped Japan bring sushi to the world.
Its passing is part of a broader transformation, away from the tiny mom-and-pop shops that have been increasingly replaced by supermarkets and fast-food chains.
Officials say they want to redevelop the markets estimated 20 hectares of land, valued in the billions, into high-rise apartments and a tunnel that will connect Tokyo to the islands that will house new Olympic sites.
They, and many who work at the market, say the move is necessary to keep up with changing times, as the same fast-food chains and supermarkets that have changed Tokyos urban landscape have increasingly shunned Tsukiji as too expensive and slow.
Opponents counter that the relocation is another example of the skewed priorities of Japans bureaucrats, whom they say want to tear down what has become one of the citys most popular tourist spots to enrich big construction firms and real estate developers.
Tsukiji was the beating heart of the sushi culture that spread across the world, said Mr Kazuki Kosaka, a former local assembly member who opposed the relocation. Now, it will be redeveloped into condominiums.
When moving Tsukiji was first proposed 14 years ago, it spurred widespread opposition, leading to rare street protests. In 2001, the plan appeared doomed after the discovery of toxic contaminants at the new site, which had housed a refinery for converting coal into natural gas. But city officials were undeterred, chipping away at opposition by offering subsidies to help pay for the move. Now, the move is considered a done deal barring last-minute reprieve.
City officials say one of the markets shortcomings is that it was built in 1935 to handle trains, not todays trucks, leading to congestion each morning. Without a new market built to handle more trucks, there will be no way to reverse the steady decline in the amount of seafood going through Tsukiji. According to the city, the market handled 497,000 tonnes of seafood in 2011, down 15 per cent from 2006.
Mr Tadao Ban, Vice-President of the middle wholesalers union, said it was this decline that convinced the union it needed the new market to survive and to keep alive another tradition: The passing of business to the next generation.
Without the new market, we wont have businesses left, said Mr Ban, 68, who inherited his tuna wholesale firm from his father. I grew up in this market and have spent my life here, but I want to have a future dream to pass down to my children. The New York Times