Anything Zeiss....


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Contax CY Zeiss Planar 50mm f/1.7 @ Wide Open...









 

Thoth said:

Nice pics! You using this lens with XE-1 bro?

Not sure if anyone will agree with me but somehow I think Zeiss lenses have to use on FF to bring out the full "oomph" in the photos. I have a friend who used his newly purchased Zeiss ZF.2 35/1.4 lens on his XPro-1 but somehow the effect is quite different compared to my same lens in ZE mount on 5D2. Like the FF effect better.
 

Far far away said:
Nice pics! You using this lens with XE-1 bro?

Not sure if anyone will agree with me but somehow I think Zeiss lenses have to use on FF to bring out the full "oomph" in the photos. I have a friend who used his newly purchased Zeiss ZF.2 35/1.4 lens on his XPro-1 but somehow the effect is quite different compared to my same lens in ZE mount on 5D2. Like the FF effect better.

Yes. On X-E1. Maybe d dynamic range on FF can bring out more pop n magic from this lens but on d x-e1. I'm quite satisfy wif d result at this point. Cheers.
 

Not sure if anyone will agree with me but somehow I think Zeiss lenses have to use on FF to bring out the full "oomph" in the photos.

I agree with this. Other than DR of sensor, I think FF makes use of the full image circle of the lens. The light fall off in the outer area tends to accentuates the center performance and addon to the pop effect. This is evident even between a 1.3x and FF.

I read in another forum that there is mentioned of Sony FF sensors does not show as much pop.
 

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continuation of flowers. ZS 50/1.4

8578194347_25de770c3e_c.jpg
 

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Just changed the light seals on a Contax 139Q given to me long time ago, run a test, and it works :-)

C/Y 50mm f/1.7, Fuji Provia 400F
sunflower-bud-000043660025-1000.jpg
 

Yes. On X-E1. Maybe d dynamic range on FF can bring out more pop n magic from this lens but on d x-e1. I'm quite satisfy wif d result at this point. Cheers.

That's ok, a little post-process can make it pop all over the place. Besides that, I also find switching to f/2, whether full frame or not, brings out more pop, as it is more contrasty now. Then again, there is a nice slight "glow" to the lesser contrast f/1.7, and it depends on exposure and light as well. It's a matter of choice in the end on what one wants for their picture.
 

That's ok, a little post-process can make it pop all over the place. Besides that, I also find switching to f/2, whether full frame or not, brings out more pop, as it is more contrasty now. Then again, there is a nice slight "glow" to the lesser contrast f/1.7, and it depends on exposure and light as well. It's a matter of choice in the end on what one wants for their picture.

Sadly, I never do Post Process on any of my photos. So I can only control the aperture to get the effect I want from this lens. Cheers. :bsmilie:
 

Sadly, I never do Post Process on any of my photos. So I can only control the aperture to get the effect I want from this lens. Cheers. :bsmilie:

Oh, I just meant that in this digital age, we can do many things with an image. Observing from your posts that you like "glow", f/1.7 will suit you mighty fine I guess. You might also like the f/1.4 of the C/Y 50mm f/1.4, almost like a later pre-asph summilux.
 

clubgrit said:
Oh, I just meant that in this digital age, we can do many things with an image. Observing from your posts that you like "glow", f/1.7 will suit you mighty fine I guess. You might also like the f/1.4 of the C/Y 50mm f/1.4, almost like a later pre-asph summilux.

Yupz. I'm a "glow" guy. LOL. Tried d 50-1.4 once. Din like it. Prefer d 50-1.7 which is sharper n renders d image nicer in d way i like it. If I'm getting d 50-1.4, guess I'll consider d asph 50 lux then. It'll b a lethal arsenal for d new M.
 

Yupz. I'm a "glow" guy. LOL. Tried d 50-1.4 once. Din like it. Prefer d 50-1.7 which is sharper n renders d image nicer in d way i like it. If I'm getting d 50-1.4, guess I'll consider d asph 50 lux then. It'll b a lethal arsenal for d new M.

The 50/1.4 will grow on you. It took me a while before I start to appreciate it. It is more controlled and consistent. The 50/1.7 strength, imo, is its pop wide open in good front lighting condition.
 

ManWearPants said:
The 50/1.4 will grow on you. It took me a while before I start to appreciate it. It is more controlled and consistent. The 50/1.7 strength, imo, is its pop wide open in good front lighting condition.

Guess both has its strength but I prefer d looks out from d 50/1.7 though. Cheers.
 

Sadly, I never do Post Process on any of my photos. So I can only control the aperture to get the effect I want from this lens. Cheers. :bsmilie:

You shoot jpec only?
 

Guess both has its strength but I prefer d looks out from d 50/1.7 though. Cheers.

Yes. All these CZ lenses always induced the love and hate relationship in me. You love them but feel like selling them for something else. You also hate them and yet still want to hold on to them for dear.

I feel, given digital powers, once should just do a little bit of post to give the pictures a little more punch. The image below. I have to use the WB picker on the white petals to get the right white balance. Also have to recover the details on the overblown white petals. Subtle post but enough to make a difference.

ZS 25/2.8 on SD15.

8587343517_f65758416f_c.jpg
 

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ManWearPants said:
Yes. All these CZ lenses always induced the love and hate relationship in me. You love them but feel like selling them for something else. You also hate them and yet still want to hold on to them for dear.

I feel, given digital powers, once should just do a little bit of post to give the pictures a little more punch.

ZS 25/2.8 on SD15.

Agree but I sux in pp n probably just lazy to pp too. Moreover d ooc jpegs r really good. Though ppl will probably enhance d colors n contrast better. Will pp enhance d pop too?
 

Agree but I sux in pp n probably just lazy to pp too. Moreover d ooc jpegs r really good. Though ppl will probably enhance d colors n contrast better. Will pp enhance d pop too?

I think the Fuji produce unnatural green or could be WB is off. I will try to make it look more natural. I am not into drastic pp but just enough to give your pict a natural feel with a bit more punch. If you increase the contrast a little bit, you should be able to enhance the existing pop. I do not think you can add in the pop by increasing the contrast though someone showed me you can blur background using CS6 and thus get more subject isolation. But I think that is excessive pp. I have also not dwell into that to see if the subject isolation = 3D pop.
 

I think the Fuji produce unnatural green or could be WB is off. I will try to make it look more natural. I am not into drastic pp but just enough to give your pict a natural feel with a bit more punch. If you increase the contrast a little bit, you should be able to enhance the existing pop. I do not think you can add in the pop by increasing the contrast though someone showed me you can blur background using CS6 and thus get more subject isolation. But I think that is excessive pp. I have also not dwell into that to see if the subject isolation = 3D pop.

Probably I could trial and test abit over the long weekends. Just manipulate the levels and saturation to enhance the contrast and see how it goes. Need to re take some pics using the Planar 50/1.7 on raw then.. Thanks.
 

Agree but I sux in pp n probably just lazy to pp too. Moreover d ooc jpegs r really good. Though ppl will probably enhance d colors n contrast better. Will pp enhance d pop too?

Certainly. Learn to use the "S" curve and balance your contrast with clarity and vibrance, avoiding clipping, and at times, readjusting the WB to produce more realsitic color. I am 67, and I had the same feeling about post processing in the past, and I thought all my cheap lenses were no good. Today, I shoot only in raw mostly with my kit lenses.
 

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