Shutter remote is really only required if you wish to shoot longer than 30 seconds in bulb mode. Other than that, you can use timer mode to prevent shake (and you should also do this even if you use shutter remote).
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Hmmm... well to ease up my budget I might skip the remote 1st since I already have timer
You want "silky smooth water with silky smooth sky". Sadly, no one can predict what the weather is like. Silky smooth water actually depends on the sea condition that day, if it is not very torrential you can take 15 seconds to make it smooth, if sea conditions are wild 2 minutes or longer can be needed. Usually 30 seconds to 1 minute is sufficient.
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I've been teaching my self how to read weather forecast since I always skip that part whenever I go out for photoshoot. As for the sea condition... I'll just have to use my luck....
For silky smooth sky this is even worse, if the clouds do not move, you can sit there for 30 minutes also will not get silky smooth sky. You will have to gauge this by yourself. Naturally to be safe you can extend the shutter to long long periods, but there has to be a balance between good use of time and what is envisioned.
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Hmmmm... I understand.
Your questions about filter.
1) Circle versus square filter - square is more convenient , i.e. you can slot it in and take it out easily to recompose. With live view, this is not as important but you will still need to take out the filter (whether circle or square) when conditions get darker and live view is no longer able to boost the image for you to compose the image. Circle filters are less prone to light leaks.
2) For GOLDEN HOURS, ND103 or ND106 (3 or 6 stops) will be sufficient. ND110 (10 stops) is more for daylight.
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Thanks! this will help! If I choose the circle ND filter I might choose the 6 stops because most likely I will late for the golden hour .
3)No decent ND filter comes cheap, usually in the region of $100 and up thereabouts. Both types can be installed at any lens diameter - square type you just need different size adaptor ring for the filter holder, circular type can buy the largest diameter and use step-up rings.
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What I am thinking is to get the cheap Tian Ya brand since it offers bundle... I already understand the consequences. But I am also eyeing for the B+W circle ND filter. I am still thinking a lot about this.
Btw, this advice applies for ND filters. These are uniform, i.e. they just extend exposure. I think you seem a little confused as to the differentiation between GRAD ND and ND, they are totally different animals.
Grad ND - is the half dark half transparent
ND - all dark
correct?
Grad ND filters are another thing altogether - for those you should just stick to square filters. Hope this helps.