whole Singapore D7000 out of stock?
- Thread starter ipeek
- Start date
Just to make sure the warranty card is showing "Nikon Singapore" and you have a receipt from the local shop, then it is not grey set.
well from Nikon Singapore site, http://nikon.com.sg/dealers.php?page=7, they are dealer.
so dun worry. i got mine from them too. When i saw the address, i was worry too but they are not from the grey market/.. not sure if they still have stock, give them a call if u need.
Thank you so much for the help =) Yea they still have D7000 body. I just called them and I told them to reserve one D7000 body. They thought I was going to come down today but when I tell the guy called raymond or something I'm coming down on wednesday, his tone changed. Doesn't sound very happy about it =/
Maybe they want to quickly clear the defect D7000? haha, just joking, but it's possible:dunno:
i don't think so ... the stock just came in on sat. some place in funan also had new stock on Sat too... all limited.
I see....anyway I don't like the salesperson's hard selling or change of attitude. There are many camera shops in Singapore.
Already got people reselling their D7000 kit.... So fast..
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=813947
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=813947
I accompanied my friend to buy. I already own a D90. Considering to sell it to upgrade to D7000. Hehehe...
Advise to those buying their camera
- Do not play out by the sales person. Remember, you're the customer. You've got the right to test out the set (ignore their "trust me, trust the shop" game play). Test out the set on the spot no matter what
- If you feel unsatisfied with your set, demand a change. If that's the last set, do not buy. I won't doubt there are shops that keep those sets belonged to those earlier customers who discover problems. After all, it's the customers that will be going to NSC to fix the problem, not the shop. This is unethical. Remember, do not get played out.
- Bring along someone you know (and have experience in camera) to come along. You may need his help.
Problems so far that mentioned in this thread includlng:
- Hot pixel (still photos): This one is very hard to detect with that small LCD screen behind your camera. However, obvious one will still be obvious. Taking 3 to 4 photos with the lens cap on (and browse through all of them), will usually adequate to flush out darn-obvious hotpixel, which is consider rare but not impossible. My suggested setting would be 8 sec exposure w/ ISO 3200.
- Hot pixel (video): This one is very easy to be detected. However, it's claimed to be fixed in firmware update. Nevertheless, if it's too obvious, you might also wish to change. (taking w/ lens cap on, shutter (1/50), ISO 400, 800, 1600, 3200, remember to set the camera's video manual setting to 'on'
- Hot/Dead pixel (LCD screen): Another factor you might wish to consider is the hot and dead pixel of the LCD screen.
- Microphone of camera: There's a forumer who claimed that his/her camera doesn't record sound when recording video. You can test this one out too. Also remember to test the speaker at the back of your camera for video playback. (note that the camera's microphone is recorded in MONO, thus it is that way and not a defect)
- Focusing issue: There are people who claimed there's a focusing issue with the camera. I'm not very clear about this one but don't bother testing with 3rd party lens. If anyone who has a suggestion on testing focusing issue on the spot would be appreciated
- Others: of course, shutter button, various other buttons, switches, top LCD backlit etc should be tested too.
Frankly, all of these look very complicated, and to be frank, when I bought this camera (1st DSLR), I also really lost on what to test out. But experience plays a part. I won't say I'm an experienced person but if I go and buy it, I'll do the following:
1) Inspect camera for physical defects
2) Install the battery inside and power up (check battery cover), also install memory card if possible at any point of time
3) Check backlit for top panel, check button working or not
4) Install a lens, test for AF, AF settings (for lens testing, another sets of tests)
5) Take photos to test hot pixel, both for LCD screen and sensor
6) Take out lens cap. Test video, mic, sound playback, AF-F for video etc
7) Take a piece of white paper blown out to look for dead pixel on LCD screen and sensor (correct me for the sensor part if I'm wrong)
8) If buying a flash, test hotshoe and master/slave (if applicable). Otherwise, test popup flash (and check the cover)
I think all these won't take more than 5 mins to test bah.
- Do not play out by the sales person. Remember, you're the customer. You've got the right to test out the set (ignore their "trust me, trust the shop" game play). Test out the set on the spot no matter what
- If you feel unsatisfied with your set, demand a change. If that's the last set, do not buy. I won't doubt there are shops that keep those sets belonged to those earlier customers who discover problems. After all, it's the customers that will be going to NSC to fix the problem, not the shop. This is unethical. Remember, do not get played out.
- Bring along someone you know (and have experience in camera) to come along. You may need his help.
Problems so far that mentioned in this thread includlng:
- Hot pixel (still photos): This one is very hard to detect with that small LCD screen behind your camera. However, obvious one will still be obvious. Taking 3 to 4 photos with the lens cap on (and browse through all of them), will usually adequate to flush out darn-obvious hotpixel, which is consider rare but not impossible. My suggested setting would be 8 sec exposure w/ ISO 3200.
- Hot pixel (video): This one is very easy to be detected. However, it's claimed to be fixed in firmware update. Nevertheless, if it's too obvious, you might also wish to change. (taking w/ lens cap on, shutter (1/50), ISO 400, 800, 1600, 3200, remember to set the camera's video manual setting to 'on'
- Hot/Dead pixel (LCD screen): Another factor you might wish to consider is the hot and dead pixel of the LCD screen.
- Microphone of camera: There's a forumer who claimed that his/her camera doesn't record sound when recording video. You can test this one out too. Also remember to test the speaker at the back of your camera for video playback. (note that the camera's microphone is recorded in MONO, thus it is that way and not a defect)
- Focusing issue: There are people who claimed there's a focusing issue with the camera. I'm not very clear about this one but don't bother testing with 3rd party lens. If anyone who has a suggestion on testing focusing issue on the spot would be appreciated
- Others: of course, shutter button, various other buttons, switches, top LCD backlit etc should be tested too.
Frankly, all of these look very complicated, and to be frank, when I bought this camera (1st DSLR), I also really lost on what to test out. But experience plays a part. I won't say I'm an experienced person but if I go and buy it, I'll do the following:
1) Inspect camera for physical defects
2) Install the battery inside and power up (check battery cover), also install memory card if possible at any point of time
3) Check backlit for top panel, check button working or not
4) Install a lens, test for AF, AF settings (for lens testing, another sets of tests)
5) Take photos to test hot pixel, both for LCD screen and sensor
6) Take out lens cap. Test video, mic, sound playback, AF-F for video etc
7) Take a piece of white paper blown out to look for dead pixel on LCD screen and sensor (correct me for the sensor part if I'm wrong)
8) If buying a flash, test hotshoe and master/slave (if applicable). Otherwise, test popup flash (and check the cover)
I think all these won't take more than 5 mins to test bah.
Due to hot pixel issue or "the neighbor's grass is always greener" ?
Wow.. I thought $1,799 from CP (cheapest $1,700) when it first launch is expensive already
, now used (not even gold box) is selling for 1730 :bigeyes:
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