who are divers on CS?


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For me, I always tell divers this:

it's actually like soccer.

You want to kick the ball high, you look up, the body will automaticlly tilt backwards, the swing of the leg will be bigger and higher.
The ball will go high.

If you want to kick a grounder(low kick), always look down , the body will lean slight forward, leg swing is smaller when the ball is kicked, it will stay low all the way.

So, you say where does soccoer techniques come into play? well...

If you are horizontal in the water, if you look slightly upwards, you will start acsending slowy.

If you want to be really horizontal, dun tilt ur head too much, look slightly downwards, 45 degree angle.

So, if you want to descend or go down deepr, look more downwards.

It's all to do with the max tilt we have with our spines and neck, so when u reach over the limit, the angle is maxed, thus the position of the entire body will have to be adjusted, thus no longer horizontal in the water.

Hope this help and not too long-winded.
 

frisky said:
I also have a problem with trim, when I stay still my leg will go down and head will come up. But the overall depth will remain.

A few DI gave suggestions but so far no go. Manage to deal with it with gentle side flipping so far, but looking for better solution. The weights method is one of those I have though of but so far never try. Dropping the belt will be more difficult that way........ Perhaps put ballons on my leg :bsmilie: :bsmilie: :bsmilie:

Perhaps u may be taking on too much weight. I remember having that problem when I first started diving. Then after better control of my breathing, I take on less weight and its easier to be in any position.

Just my 2 cents worth, hope it will help.
 

Scotsman, any intention of bringing your 10D underwater? There is someone selling a housing at wetpixel.com :)
 

intention, yes! Actually taking it down? no... reason, too much money to lose if it floods and also the initial huge investment of the housing.

So...not really.

thanks anyway.
 

This thread is really hot, although the posting comes form the common few. Would realy like to put a face to these names.

Someone mentioned that using rental gear may make u a better diver, since the gears are poorly maintained. Well, that is if u survive till your next dive. :o There are actually a lot of diving accidents not reported in the media. I have learnt to trust only myself or people I know very very well. Rule number one is diving is to save yourself first, hence the importance of building up water confidence.

One's bouyancy control has ntg to do with being able to dive with just one weight or no weight. Certain DMs and instructors always like to say / demostrate this in front of newbies. Egoistic *******s. :blah: We should not dive with excessive weights, but does not mean we should dive with just one weight or none. So long as you can maintain neutral bouyancy and comfortable, I think that is fine. Besides, photographers are always slightly overweighted anyway. A lot of factors affect your weighting. BC is just one of them.

As for the photography equipment vs diving equipment debate, I am advising based on my own experience. Cost is always the concern. I first dived with rental gears, then my own, then the motormarine camera, the attachment lens, then one strobe, then another, then the digital cam, digital strobe, and finally saving for housing and more strobes now. I think the best advice given at this forum is go with what you can afford, buy slowly. Exhaust the limitations of the camera you have first. only then you will know what u lack and need.

As a guage, how long do I take to get to my current setup? Seven years (from my first Sea&Sea, excluding those years when I was just a "normal diver"), and still building. Hahahahaha! One more thing, you have to first dive to enjoy underwater photography, so like what one said, it's better to do things the divers' way.
 

scotsman said:
intention, yes! Actually taking it down? no... reason, too much money to lose if it floods and also the initial huge investment of the housing.

So...not really.

thanks anyway.

When I first started out, people tell me that diving is an equipment / capital intensive sport.

Nobody warned me about underwater photography! :bigeyes:
 

kthan said:
This thread is really hot, although the posting comes form the common few. Would realy like to put a face to these names.

where's our secretary beivied? :D

apparently the next UWCS (Underwater Water Closet SEED) meeting would be in October or so, after most of the other chaps have done their dives.... :cry:
 

anyone going diving 12-14 Sep weekend? To where and how much? Looking for some place to get cameras wet after being on land for so long....
 

Hey kthan,

Just wanting some advise regarding u/w equipment. I want to upgrade my IXUS 330 package. So these are my options:

1. Canon S50 with Canon's U/W enclosure with a Sea and Sea YS90 Auto strobe. Perhaps a Sea and Sea wide angle convertor.

2. Olympus 5050 with the PT-015 housing and the Sea and Sea YS90 Auto Strobe.

3. Olympus 5050/Canon G3/G5 with an Ikelite housing with a strobe connected via TTL. Not sure what strobes can link up but I'm sure the housing supports a connector. Any recommendations?

What do u think?
 

scotsman said:
Hey kthan,

Just wanting some advise regarding u/w equipment. I want to upgrade my IXUS 330 package. So these are my options:

1. Canon S50 with Canon's U/W enclosure with a Sea and Sea YS90 Auto strobe. Perhaps a Sea and Sea wide angle convertor.

2. Olympus 5050 with the PT-015 housing and the Sea and Sea YS90 Auto Strobe.

3. Olympus 5050/Canon G3/G5 with an Ikelite housing with a strobe connected via TTL. Not sure what strobes can link up but I'm sure the housing supports a connector. Any recommendations?

What do u think?
Lanxx, care to comment? u r the undisputed digital advisor here.

1. Never handle a Canon before so I cannot give an objective comment. My concern would be battery though. U prob need 2. C5050 uses AA batteries and you definitely have several sets. Never read anything good about S&S macro and wide angel lens with digital cameras. Basically these are film lens adapted to DC. But if u already own these, then it is a different consideration altogether. I have a 2T, but have never thought of buying the adaptor to use with my C3040. Afterall adaptor not cheap. A little more can buy Inon already.

2. My personal fav prosumer camera, although I don't have one. Great super macro saves u from buying macro lens. Money can go towards a strobe. For the YS-90 DX, the sensor is built into the main strobe. So is the manual adj knob. One advantage is I can trigger the strobe to fire with the internal flash of the C-5050. i just cover the diffuser on the housing to block direct flash, minimising backscatter. See pics by my wife, using C3040 and DX90 for the first time :
http://www.picturecd.com/system/login.cgi?session=1062400073.9053&guest=1&username=huicheng

Downside of not using a fibre optic is that any other strobes in the vicinity will trigger your DX90 as well.

3. Ikelite housing to go with Ikelite DS-50 or DS-125. Use a remote TTL senor or manual senor to syn with the C-5050. Don't think you want this combi becos of $$$$$ of 3rd party housing.

my five cents.....

for those interested, can go to www.bearaway.org this guy uses only internal flash of his c-4000. This just shows that shooting within the limits of the camera can still yield great pics.
 

Thanks.

Your wife's photos are nice. I like the mandarin fish photos.

I'm unsure of the different versions of the YS-90, The sea and sea dealer at Adelphi recommended me the YS-90 AUTO. So what is the diff between the DX and AUTO version?

Thanks
 

scotsman said:
Thanks.

Your wife's photos are nice. I like the mandarin fish photos.

I'm unsure of the different versions of the YS-90, The sea and sea dealer at Adelphi recommended me the YS-90 AUTO. So what is the diff between the DX and AUTO version?

Thanks

one has a manual adj knob and one doesn't, I think. Also the DX can act as a pre flash to syn with the digital cameras.
 

scotsman said:
I'm unsure of the different versions of the YS-90, The sea and sea dealer at Adelphi recommended me the YS-90 AUTO. So what is the diff between the DX and AUTO version?
Thanks
The auto supposedly has a "light sensor" at the front that will adjust according to the prevailing ambient light condition (need to set yr aperture on the strobe via a knob), whereas the DX is a straight forward fully manual strobe - set the flash strength via a knob. Not sure how well the auto "light sensor" will work in real life - i can't remember but think it cld be lanxx who said that between the DX and auto, the DX will be better in the long run cos you can fully control how much flash you want, whereas for the auto, the "light sensor" will always be a variable factor that you can't control.

Suggest you go for a camera which uses AA batteries for much longer battery life (S50 v poor batter life underwater). 5050 is prob a good choice if you want 5mp, for 3mp, the A70 is a good budget choice. Wait about a month for the A80 if you want a budget 4mp. :D
 

ai ya got a80 ah. still abit sore that i didnt get a70, becos AP tell me dont have underwater casing. :confused:
 

beivied said:
ai ya got a80 ah. still abit sore that i didnt get a70, becos AP tell me dont have underwater casing. :confused:

never mind lar.. the 5050 is a good CAM and is able to perform alot of wonders and has alot of upgrades. WA lenses, macro lenses, Dome ports, ETC. it will be able to "grow" with you.. be happy with it and squeeze all you can out of it before thinking of upgrade.
:cool:
 

ya la. somemore, the 5050 is the serious u/w amateur photogs' camera... :)

eh, i only 4040, you want to swap with me? :D
 

sehsuan said:
ya la. somemore, the 5050 is the serious u/w amateur photogs' camera... :)

eh, i only 4040, you want to swap with me? :D

err, can, but I swap with your 10D ok? :D
 

beivied said:
ai ya got a80 ah. still abit sore that i didnt get a70, becos AP tell me dont have underwater casing. :confused:

LOL, never do your homework properly ;)
 

lanxx, that message was intended for beivied, not you... :D
 

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