Since the building was stationary, just set your camera on a tripod then use a low ISO of 100 or 200, remote release and set your aperture to somewhere between f11-f16, you should be able to capture a pretty nice building shot. Exposure time is around 30 seconds if environment is very dark.
Which ISO to use for night shoot?
- Thread starter hengchianwee
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Since the building was stationary, just set your camera on a tripod then use a low ISO of 100 or 200, remote release and set your aperture to somewhere between f11-f16, you should be able to capture a pretty nice building shot. Exposure time is around 30 seconds if environment is very dark.
the lower the iso speed the better the image quality
so for stationary subjects, use lowest iso and a tripod
set to aperture priority and choose the desired depth of field, let the camera select the shutter speed.
shoot
too bright? adjust exposure compensation to minus
too dark? adjust exposure compensation to positive
photography is so simple with digital
so for stationary subjects, use lowest iso and a tripod
set to aperture priority and choose the desired depth of field, let the camera select the shutter speed.
shoot
too bright? adjust exposure compensation to minus
too dark? adjust exposure compensation to positive
photography is so simple with digital
ok, if the building is white, then u can use spot metering n meter the white , but u have to + 1ev in exposure compensation, else the white will become darker...
exposure is crucial in getting what u want.. why not go borrow Michael Freeman Perfect Exposure..
sometimes we want to overexpose or underexpsore for certain effects also..
I am amazed that you can give a shutter speed without even being there to know exactly how dark or bright the conditions are...
That is why I say IF environment is very dark. Maybe I should add, depending on the environment, shutter speed can reach or exceed 30 seconds (that would be more accurate).
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Depend on what you want to shoot. If you are shooting portraits and if there are models for your shoot, it would be good to use flash, no point asking your subject (living one that is) to stand there for a few seconds.
And if it is building or landscape, flash might have limited use... because flash might not have enough strenght to be thrown off that far and cover that wide.
please dun use a flash when you are shooting buildings at night, technically it is not wrong but personally i feel it is stupid to do that. that is my point of view.
It's not just the ISO. It's your entire exposure setting comprising of shutter speed, aperture as well as ISO
There's no fixed ISO that I will use, it depends on the light level. I will use an ISO that is as low as possible but at the same time does not give a shutter speed that is not hand holdable i.e. will cause photo to be blur due to shake. Alternatively, just increase ISO when shutter speed beyond hand holdable speed.
There's no fixed ISO that I will use, it depends on the light level. I will use an ISO that is as low as possible but at the same time does not give a shutter speed that is not hand holdable i.e. will cause photo to be blur due to shake. Alternatively, just increase ISO when shutter speed beyond hand holdable speed.
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I use ISO 100 for my night scene mounted on tripod.
I use ISO 800 together with flash if my subjects are near
I use ISO 6400 when I don't have my flash and my subjects are in compromising positions and worthy of a grainy picture because it is a worth a thousand words even though they are noisy words.
If it is too dark, you have under-exposed, if it's too white, you have over-exposed.
I use ISO 800 together with flash if my subjects are near
I use ISO 6400 when I don't have my flash and my subjects are in compromising positions and worthy of a grainy picture because it is a worth a thousand words even though they are noisy words.
If it is too dark, you have under-exposed, if it's too white, you have over-exposed.
f8 is a better choice. Look out for light diffraction. Also you have hyper focal at your advantage.
Agreed with what you have stated. But something light diffraction can be pleasing to the eye too.
Hi,
Honestly speaking, if it was me then i will stick to nothing lower than 1600 (ISO) if i am using a cropped sensor cam. Going above that will give you lot of grains in the photo and dead pixels too. Use a tripod if your subject was still, if moving then too bad just bump up the ISO to 1600. It always depends on the way you review your photo. For me i personally feel anxious about grainy photos, so i try to use flash or tripod (still objects).
Cheers,
Mav 2
Honestly speaking, if it was me then i will stick to nothing lower than 1600 (ISO) if i am using a cropped sensor cam. Going above that will give you lot of grains in the photo and dead pixels too. Use a tripod if your subject was still, if moving then too bad just bump up the ISO to 1600. It always depends on the way you review your photo. For me i personally feel anxious about grainy photos, so i try to use flash or tripod (still objects).
Cheers,
Mav 2
simple answer. Any ISO that will allow you to get a correctly exposed photo (or at least a photo exposed in a way you wanted creatively).
If you are hand holding, you will probably want to adjust it till you can shoot without shake. 1/focal length shutter speed.
if you are using a tripod, just shoot at base iso (either 100 or 200) for best pic quality
if you wanted to freeze or have creative motion blur things in the photo, adjust iso till you get the right shutter speed.
PS. I'm ignoring f-stop here to simplified things.
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