can i join you to sell as well?
I suggest you guys open a Pentax equipment rental shop, which I think is lacking in Singapore? I will gladly be the first happy customer..
What is your next lens?
- Thread starter pendora
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I suggest you guys open a Pentax equipment rental shop, which I think is lacking in Singapore? I will gladly be the first happy customer..
You may want to tell the guys here about it
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/others/636515-ricoh-gxr.html
Anyway, here's a review/comparison done my Steve Huff :
28mm and 50mm modules : The Ricoh GXR Digital Camera Review with the 28mm and 50mm Modules | STEVE HUFF PHOTOS
M-mount module against the NEX7 : Sony NEX-7 with wide angle Leica lenses – A quick test and Ricoh GXR A12 Comparison! | STEVE HUFF PHOTOS
The lens module idea is "odd-ball" in concept, I'd agree with you on that, but it has its fans and is no slouch in OOC colors and performance.
BTW, you asked if a K5 is worth buying with the Ricoh takeover.
Look at it this way.
If you spent ~$1m to get a Ferrari, would you then go take out its engines and replace it with one from a Honda?
Same logic goes for the Ricoh purchase.
K-mount, DSLRs and related patents are all that Pentax has to offer to Ricoh for the purchase. Spend money to close it down?
Only makes sense to buy up and close down competitor if Ricoh is large in the DSLR market, which it isn't.
What I worry is that Honda might simply just use Ferrari engines in Honda car.
detritus
Senior Member
if they price it like a honda, i'll be interested to buy man...
Hmm.. that isn't a bad thing...
Anyway, with analogies there is usually no end to wise-crack answers and twists and turns, which is why I often dread to use them.
You have a Kx or Kr right now correct?
If you are really afraid of the future under Ricoh, just wait for a few months to see what Pentax/Ricoh will announce as new products and move on from there.
No need to rush to buy a K5 is you are uncomfortable about it.
Yamakasi
New Member
simon6z
Senior Member
prime better but zoom flexible hahaha, so depend on you to do weighlifting or to be in PRIME time
Both are great lenses.
There is no right or wrong with either choice.
The 10-20 is more versatile of course, but slower apertures and more distortion (if you are concerned of such things; I usually quite in-sensitive to such stuff).
DA15/4
Unique in that it is so small for a UWA. This means its taken out more, w/o taking up much space in the bag.
It sharper than the 10-20, at a pixel peeping level, but to me its unimportant as these are very minor differences. Do not mistake this to mean that the 10-20 is not sharp.
Its also has more aperture blades for that 'starburst' effect on light sources when stopped down.
Much better build quality and the seldom mentioned advantage are proper distance markings and focus stop at infinity on the lens, which is very useful for hyper focusing.
The Sigma 10-20 focuses beyond infinity and the scale and become incorrect depending on focus calibration on the lens.
This was done at f4 hand held, though I braced against the walls. The Sigma at f5.6 may have needed a higher ISO or slower shutter speed.
Sigma 10-20
Its wider and more useful for BIG places, esp overseas. The choice of 20mm, also gives a chance to give more compression to far elements in the scene.
Perhaps the 'safe' choice to go for. I'd consider the DA12-24/4 too if you are getting the Sigma 10-20 at expensive S'pore prices.
At 10mm
At 20mm
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Lets say if I want to zoom in with my "legs", do we have to run a longer distance to zoom in or out?
Lets say if I want to zoom in with my "legs", do we have to run a longer distance to zoom in or out?
detritus
Senior Member
if u're shooting ultra-wide, i don't think "zooming with your legs" is much of an option...
example: u're at marina promenade, near esplanade, taking pictures of MBS or Fullerton + Merlion.
u want a wider perspective than 15mm, u walk backwards, and u end up getting the railings in your foreground. and unless u want to swim, u can't really walk forward.
bottom line: u may not be able to reposition in a way that will not affect the perspective u want. sure, u can crop... but...
zooming with your feet probably works better when u're shooting portraits than landscape.
Both are great lenses.
There is no right or wrong with either choice.
The 10-20 is more versatile of course, but slower apertures and more distortion (if you are concerned of such things; I usually quite in-sensitive to such stuff).
DA15/4
Unique in that it is so small for a UWA. This means its taken out more, w/o taking up much space in the bag.
It sharper than the 10-20, at a pixel peeping level, but to me its unimportant as these are very minor differences. Do not mistake this to mean that the 10-20 is not sharp.
Its also has more aperture blades for that 'starburst' effect on light sources when stopped down.
This was done at f4 hand held, though I braced against the walls. The Sigma at f5.6 may have needed a higher ISO or slower shutter speed.
Sigma 10-20
Its wider and more useful for BIG places, esp overseas. The choice of 20mm, also gives a chance to give more compression to far elements in the scene.
Perhaps the 'safe' choice to go for. I'd consider the DA12-24/4 too if you are getting the Sigma 10-20 at expensive S'pore prices.
At 10mm
At 20mm
any post processing done with your 2nd pic?
The usual PP; levels>curves>resize>sharpen nothing OTT
sunnycamera
Senior Member
If you need wide, you can always shoot 2 shots from each angle and stitch them together in photoshop.
if you use compact camera, even easier, nowaday, almost all camera has swipe panorama feather. (up to 360 degree, that is everything around you)
30 shots on a bridge from my M 50mm f1.7 for such wide angle shots
if you use compact camera, even easier, nowaday, almost all camera has swipe panorama feather. (up to 360 degree, that is everything around you)
30 shots on a bridge from my M 50mm f1.7 for such wide angle shots
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simon6z
Senior Member
If you need wide, you can always shoot 2 shots from each angle and stitch them together in photoshop.
if you use compact camera, even easier, nowaday, almost all camera has swipe panorama feather. (up to 360 degree, that is everything around you)
30 shots on a bridge from my M 50mm f1.7 for such wide angle shots
I failed miserably with my Da 35mm with 3 shots I can't even get it stitch properly hahaha
sunnycamera
Senior Member
photoshop or any stitch program requires 1/3 photo overlap for each photo to be able to work properly.
and the pan of camera is in the center of image sensor, (camera position stay still while rotating)
so you should rotate your self around the camera, instead swing the camera around your body.
by the way, the 30 shots are hand stitched and using layer mask to hide off the seams,
then cropped the top and bottom a bit to make it look straight.
20+ unprocess hand stitch of Train station in China. (shot with Pentax M 50mm f1.7, since it is lightweight and fast for indoor)
Imagine 20+ 5MB jpg image auto process in Photoshop, sometimes if there are no clear texture differentiation between next shots, photoshop will refuse to stitch. and generally for large span, photoshop will add perspective distortion into it. so hand painting work and cloning work required for cleanup.
and the pan of camera is in the center of image sensor, (camera position stay still while rotating)
so you should rotate your self around the camera, instead swing the camera around your body.
by the way, the 30 shots are hand stitched and using layer mask to hide off the seams,
then cropped the top and bottom a bit to make it look straight.
20+ unprocess hand stitch of Train station in China. (shot with Pentax M 50mm f1.7, since it is lightweight and fast for indoor)
Imagine 20+ 5MB jpg image auto process in Photoshop, sometimes if there are no clear texture differentiation between next shots, photoshop will refuse to stitch. and generally for large span, photoshop will add perspective distortion into it. so hand painting work and cloning work required for cleanup.
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